Fashion Design Research Articles

Philosophy of Identity in Fashion Phenomenon: Codes, Structures and Integrity

The article analyses fashion as a reflex of philosophy of identity in everyday life. Contemporary fashion is not imaginable without postulation of national and/or regional identity. Worldly recognisable French, Italian and other regional fashions show a variety of models that have recognisability. Internationally recognisable as fashion that represents particular national identity it still can be seen as not the only possible its identity version. Contemporary variety in identity models in fashion design are reflecting identity models in general. Identity is understood as changeable and liquid that can reflect aspects of identity depending on participants of interaction. Fashion, differently, is a form of mass communication that does not change the message depending on the receiver.

Optimizing the Monitoring of Urban Fruit-Bearing Flora with Citizen Science: An Overview of the Pomar Urbano Initiative

The "Pomar Urbano" (Urban Orchard) project focuses on the collaborative monitoring of fruit-bearing plant species in urban areas throughout Brazil. The project collected a list of 411 fruit-bearing plant species (Soares et al. 2023), both native and exotic varieties found in Brazil. This list was selected from two main sources: the book Brazilian Fruits and Cultivated Exotics (Lorenzi et al. 2006) and the book series Plants for the Future, which includes volumes specifically dedicated to species of economic value in different regions of Brazil, namely the South (Coradin et al. 2011), Midwest (Vieira et al. 2016), Northeast (Coradin et al. 2018) and North (Coradin et al. 2022). To ensure broad geographic coverage, the project spans all 27 state capitals of Brazil. The data collection process relies on the iNaturalist Umbrella and Collection projects. Each state capital has a single collection project, including the fruit-bearing plant species list, and the locality restriction to that specific city. For example, the collection project Pomar Paulistano gathers data from the city of São Paulo. The Umbrella Project Urban Orchard was set to track data from all 27 collection projects. We firmly believe that these fruit-bearing plant species possess multifaceted value that extends beyond mere consumption. As such, we have assembled a dynamic and multidisciplinary team comprising professionals from various institutions across Brazil in a collaborative effort that encompasses different dimensions of biodiversity value exploration and monitoring, especially phenological data. One facet of our team is focused on creating products inspired by the diverse array of Brazilian fruit-bearing plants. Their work spans across sectors of the creative industry, including fashion, painting, and graphic design to infuse these natural elements into innovative and sustainable designs (Fig. 1 and Fig. 2). A group of nutrition and health scientists in conjunction with communication and marketing professionals is working to produce engaging media content centered around food recipes that incorporate Brazilian fruits (Fig. 3). These recipes primarily feature the fruit-bearing plants most frequently observed on iNaturalist in the city of São Paulo, allowing us to showcase the local biodiversity while promoting culinary diversity. Some of these recipes are based on the book Brazilian Biodiversity: Flavors and Aromas (Santiago and Coradin 2018). This book is an extensive compendium of food recipes that use fruits derived from native Brazilian species.

Exploring the attractiveness of combinations of natural colors and contemporary shapes in fashion design

In this research, the attractiveness of combinations of natural colors and contemporary shapes in fashion design is explored. This was done by means of a questionnaire survey. Four shapes of clothing and ten colors obtained from plant and insect pigments are proposed. The research was conducted in two phases – qualitative and quantitative analysis. The quantitative study confirmed the results of the qualitative study and using an appropriate data reduction method, the study results were analyzed graphically. The results showed that users rated designs with high-contrast color and shape combinations as more attractive than those with low-contrast combinations. The study also showed that in addition to the shape of the garment, the choice of natural color sources can also influence consumer preferences. This study aims to overcome the shortcomings of previous studies that only examined color without investigating its relationship to garment shape. The knowledge gained from this study can help fashion designers create garments that are both aesthetically pleasing and environmentally friendly. However, further research is needed to determine the relationship between natural colors, contemporary shapes and consumer behavior in selecting them.

Instructional Resources for Skill Acquisition in the Art of Millinery for Higher National Diploma: A Study of Fashion Design in Technical Universities in Ghana

This study assessed the impact of instructional resources used in skills acquisition in millinery art in fashion design in technical universities in Ghana. The study examined the available instructional resources used in the skills acquisition in millinery art by higher national diploma (HND) fashion design students in five selected technical universities in Ghana. The study used a descriptive survey design. The study population was 249 students at HND Level 200 and 31 lecturers of millinery art in the five selected technical universities in fashion design departments. The study used multistage and stratified sampling techniques to collect data from the respondents. Data was collected using an observation checklist, a closed-ended questionnaire and a semi-structured interview guide. Descriptive and inferential statistics were applied to analyse data. The overall regression was statistically significant R2 = .508, F(20, 228) = 11.794, p < 0.05, indicating that the instructional resources used impacted millinery skills acquired. The study found that cutting scissors, milliners’ pins and straw proofed statistically significant as predicted in the millinery skills acquired by the HND fashion design students, which implied that these were the instructional resources used most often; however, the study also discovered that the essential instructional resources were not available to be used in skills acquisition in millinery art in the technical universities. It was recommended that the technical universities support the fashion design departments to acquire the needed instructional resources for skill acquisition in milliner art

Making Sustainability Concrete

“Sustainability” is an increasingly fashionable design criterion for celebrity corporate architects, their clients, and the governmental bodies that regulate urban development. Yet determining if and how a building is actually sustainable remains controversial, with different actors positing qualifications that are often at odds with each other. In this article, the authors explore how the ideal of sustainability is made concrete in contemporary corporate architecture, focusing on the design of one of Google's new corporate campuses in Silicon Valley that has been extensively touted and recognized as admirably green. The article draws attention to how various experts who participated in the design of Google's new campus rendered sustainability differently and argues that the temporal and social structure of the design process worked to compel coordination and compromises among these experts’ different renderings. Ultimately the authors advocate for problematizing the design process as a key site where political questions about sustainability in the built form get settled pragmatically.

The theory of interpersonal behavior and its role in explaining Farida Kahlo's psychological condition: How psychological artistic influences fashion design

The theory of interpersonal behavior and its role in explaining Farida Kahlo's psychological condition: How psychological artistic influences fashion design

Curative handcrafted textiles: Healing generations

While natural disasters in the past, along with the recent COVID-19 pandemic, have disrupted livelihoods, they have also activated the structuring of handicraft as an age-old remedial practice with curative properties. Further, the need for communicating textile processes, in support of slow fashion, has allowed educational institutions to contextualize this teaching with the help of pedagogical models that define the role of both craft education and craft-based research. As an educator at Pearl Academy, India, what I can observe in the modern world today is that there is always a cross-cultural contact between the ‘local’ and the ‘global’ and that, the much-discussed ‘global village’ is no longer a fantasy but a fact, despite numerous paradoxes. This article aims at giving an insight into my perspectives and experiences that shed light on the plight of handicraft in the most hand-skilled country in the world. It also lends a bird’s-eye point of view on the need to break barriers between modern and traditional, between urban and rural, etc., and look at the many avatars of handicraft and techniques being repurposed for modern applications such as luxury fashion, interior design and jewellery. This can result in the creation of works that are not only aesthetically pleasing but are also functional, sustainable and culturally sensitive and can help designers and artists navigate complex ethical issues that resonate with diverse communities. The article takes into consideration handcrafted textile samples developed by three postgraduate fashion design students at Pearl Academy, India, who have developed textile samples as part of their project called ‘Hybrid Textiles’. The samples create an epilogue to the context of this study through an ‘end of life’ narrative and craft practices in India.

Research on the Application of Tang Dynasty Round Flower Pattern in Modern Fashion Design

Research on the Application of Tang Dynasty Round Flower Pattern in Modern Fashion Design

Dynamic Managerial Capabilities and New Product Development in the Fashion and Apparel Design Industry

Dynamic Managerial Capabilities and New Product Development in the Fashion and Apparel Design Industry

MODEL AFIRMATIF BAGI MASYARAKAT PESISIR PANTAI DI WILAYAH JAKARTA UTARA TENTANG BATIK JUMPUTAN BERMOTIF ALAM VERSI MILENIAL

Community service activities are carried out in an effort to strengthen women's capacity so they can develop the jumputan batik home industry and the millennial version of natural fashion designs. Operationally the product of community service activities is jumputan cloth using natural dyes. The training materials for community service activities are the skills of making jumputan batik patterns with natural characteristics, as well as green campaigns on environmental preservation and sustainable lifestyles through getting used to implementing 7R (recycle, reuse, reduce, replace, repair, replant, refill). Counselling on environmental materials in sustainable development was delivered in a planned manner to 27 Coastal Communities in the North Jakarta Region virtually. The community is expected to be able to design skills. In the virtual process, they have shown: enthusiasm, collaboration, curiosity, participation in providing ideas, discipline, new ideas, creativity, interest, ability to express opinions and motivation. The millennial version of natural character fashion products can soon be widely promoted at the local, regional, national and global levels. Demand for fashion products with coastal batik motifs with a millennial version of nature shows the high enthusiasm of coastal communities in North Jakarta for products with the concept of supporting a circular economy by implementing the 7R.

Fauna-inspired fashion through the English language glass

The article deals with representation of animal-inspired fashion highlights in the English fashion discourse with the focus on evolution of naming systems, categorization, multimodality, advertising and marketing strategies valid for online commerce. Animalistic motifs are considered on the basis of language-naming practices for clothes, footwear, accessories, jewelry and make-up. Fashion has become an important field of communication in modern world. Now it generates multimodal fashion discourse and refined fashion narrative with countless articles and innumerable posts on social media, Instagrammable looks of celebrities and influeuncers imitated by thousands of fashion fans. Glamorous fashion events are prominent social gatherings, which entail extensive international media coverage making a noticeable domain of online landscape. In the 21st century, radical changes in fashion were triggered by ecology movement and animal advocacy movement. Wild and domestic animals were used for clothes making for centuries but in the 21st century due to animal personhood movement and vegan fashion animals are likely to turn into a mere source of inspiration for designers. The shift in world vision and values triggers changes in customers' mentality and promotes creativity of fashion designers. Animal-inspired prints, gowns, footwear, accessories become means of self-expression and personification. Modern designers reinterpret the iconic images of the past bringing fashion to a new level what results into new word coinages in English, new distribution of fashion lexemes. Ergonyms – names of fashion items – contain indexical signs and might get associative meaning and emotional meaning being connected with famous people and celebrities. The list of animalistic fashion terms with indexal names is getting longer in the wake of the attempts to introduce new prints into fashion industry. Online business dictates advertising and marketing strategies with catchy names, slogans and detailed linguistic description of goods. Naming conventions are being changed as animal-prints get connotations, associations; lexical units acquire occasional intensifiers and determiners. Playfulness of animal-inspired fashion items is conveyed via humorous names and naming components. Zoomorphic accessories give rise to new portmanteau words. Modern fashion discourse proves linguistic practices and naming conventions are becoming more sophisticated and intricate.

An AI-based Clothing Design Process Applied to an Industry-university Fashion Design Class

An AI-based Clothing Design Process Applied to an Industry-university Fashion Design Class

Fashioning sustainability: Navigating the perceptions and attitudes in fashion design

Trends, elegance, and rapid consumption have long been connected to the fashion business, creating serious environmental and societal problems. Fashion designers are essential in guiding the industry toward a more sustainable future as the necessity for sustainable practices becomes more and more obvious. The purpose of this research was to investigate more about fashion designers' opinions on sustainable fashion (SF) and the challenges they face when trying to put sustainable design (SD) concepts into practice. Fifty fashion designers were selected to take part in an exploratory study and were interviewed throughout five sessions. The research's major findings show that it's challenging to include SD in the fashion design (FD) process for several internal and external factors. Internal issues include a lack of consensus and knowledge regarding SD, as well as projected trade-offs with other aspects of design goals, including aesthetic styles, budgetary limits, and current trends in fashion. Some examples of such external barriers include the intricacy of sustainability issues, the impression of insufficient customer demand, the existence of deficiencies in customer views and actions regarding the purchase of sustainable collection ranges, and the absence of either monetary or legal incentives for businesses to employ SD methods. The results of this study add to our knowledge of the perspectives and attitudes that fashion designers have regarding sustainability, providing insightful information for those who are involved in the industry, policymakers, and educators. This research aims to enable the incorporation of sustainable practices into fashion design, eventually guiding the industry toward a more responsible and sustainable future by addressing the issues and offering practical solutions.

Improving fashion design learning outcomes by problem based learning model in Vocational High School

The background of this research problem was the low learning outcomes of students in the cognitive domain of Fashion Design course. This research aims at describing the implementation of the Problem Based Learning model to improve student learning outcomes in the Fashion Design course. The research was conducted at Vocational High School 6 Padang with the method used was Classroom Action Research (CAR). This Classroom Action Research (CAR) was divided into 2 cycles. Each cycle was divided into 4 stages: 1) Planning, 2) Implementation. 3) Observation, 4) Reflection. The research subjects used were students of Grade XI Fashion Design I at Vocational High School 6 Padang, totaling 29 students. Data collection techniques used observation, tests, and documentation. The data analysis technique was carried out by quantitative and qualitative analyzing. In the first cycle, students reached the Minimum Completeness Criteria of learning outcomes as much as 55%. In the second cycle, it increased while 83% of students have reached the Minimum Completeness Criteria. Thus, it can be concluded that the implementation of Fashion Design learning by using the Problem Based Learning Model can improve student learning outcomes in grade XI Fashion Design I at Vocational High School 6 Padang.

Contemporary fashion and its impact on the shape of the sleeves in the traditional Moroccan caftan

The Moroccan caftan has recently occupied a large space among contemporary designers because of its great aesthetic impact in terms of shape and decoration, as well as the cultural heritage of the Arab peoples. For international designers in America, Europe and East Asia, in our research, a set of images of the traditional and contemporary caftan was used, which were analyzed visually to know the quality and size of the change that occurred in the shape of the traditional sleeve as a result of its influence on modeling and the designer's vision. In addition, the basic measurements of the sleeve were calculated to further emphasize the importance of the change in the measurements and silhouette of the contemporary sleeve. Contemporary to find out the prediction of the future shape of the kaftan, which is a kind of prediction of the shape, design, quality of fabrics and motifs used in the future fashion industry and its impact on fashion designers and the fashion industry market In our research, the study included focusing on the traditional shape of the sleeve and knowing its basic types that are known and inherited through generations, as well as studying the contemporary shapes of the sleeve through a graphic analysis of a group of contemporary costumes for fashion designers who were inspired by the Moroccan caftan as an inspiration for fashion in contemporary clothes. In front of modernity, it has changed significantly, especially in the lower sleeve area.

In Case You Haven't Heard…

Score one in the fight against stigma, for efforts to be more open about suicide. The Washington Post reported last week that mentioning suicide as a cause of death in obituaries and death notices has become noticeably more common in recent years. Some experts have said they believe the high‐profile deaths of popular figures such as actor Robin Williams and fashion designer Kate Spade have contributed to a greater openness about suicide in the general public. National Council for Suicide Prevention Managing Director Dan Reidenberg told the newspaper it is important, however, to report on this subject responsibly, to avoid a “suicide contagion” reaction in which suicide rates can increase immediately following news reports of a suicide. Balanced accounts of a suicide would leave out details about the death and would cite both the accomplishments and the struggles of the deceased, Reidenberg suggested.

Digital fabrics for online shopping and fashion design

Improving the digital presentation of fabrics enhances the online shopping experience and, in turn, reduces textile waste. In this study, we examined how the manipulation of simple surface reflectance models can bias the perception of fabric properties simulated online in a web browser. We showed that motion and three-dimensional (3D) folds (i.e., rumple) influence the perception of sheen for different fabric types (cotton knit and satin). Also, we found complex interactions between these parameters in their effects on perceived sheen and perceived color saturation. Moreover, we showed that changing the level of specular roughness significantly influences visual perception of sheen, color and lightness, which in turn, can categorically alter perceptual judgments of material type. In contrast to visual attributes, specular roughness did not influence visually perceived tactile characteristics of digital fabrics (thickness and stretch). The knowledge gained about perceptual biases of digital fabrics from this study will inform future considerations for optimizing the fidelity of textiles depicted in digital commerce.

Penerapan Media Pembelajaran Flipbook Untuk Meningkatkan Minat dan Hasil Belajar Siswa Pada Mata Pelajaran Dasar Desain Kelas X TB2 SMK Negeri 2 Purwakarta

This research aims to enhance student participation and learning outcomes in the subject of Basic Design for 10th-grade students in class TB2 during the Covid-19 pandemic, utilizing online learning using flipbook instructional media. Initial observations revealed several challenges and issues during the learning process, particularly concerning students' interest and learning outcomes. It wasn't easy for students to transition from traditional in-person learning to online learning through the use of flipbook media. However, this learning medium presented a new experience for students, leading to a majority of them being intrigued by this method. Therefore, it's essential to conduct research to understand the impact of flipbook instructional media on improving student participation and learning outcomes, especially in the Basic Design subject for 10th-grade students in Class X TB2 at SMK Negeri 2 Purwakarta. The research methodology employed a Technological Pedagogical Content Knowledge (TPACK) approach, coupled with the Project-Based Learning model. The research focused on students of the Fashion Department in class X TB2. Data collection was carried out using evaluation methods through assessment questions and Learning Activity Worksheets (LKPD). The results of the pre-test conducted before the first learning cycle indicated that out of 35 students, none (0%) had a comprehensive understanding of the Basic Design materials, 25% of students had a satisfactory understanding, and 75% had not yet achieved mastery. After the second cycle, the results showed an improvement in the mastery of Basic Fashion Design materials among the 35 students.

Career geographies in the Ghanaian fashion industry: from brain drain to brain gain and brain circulation

ABSTRACT Brain drain has long been argued to be one of Africa’s key development challenges. This paper provides a more nuanced analysis of African career mobility through a focus on professionals in the creative industries, specifically Ghanaian fashion designers. Drawing on interviews with 31 fashion designers but focussing on the career geography of internationally renowned Kofi Ansah, we show how ‘brain drain’ turned into ‘brain gain’ and consequently ‘brain circulation’, fundamentally transforming Ghana’s fashion industry. The paper thus demonstrates how the knowledge and expertise return migrants gather through international career mobility can be converted into assets at an individual, national, and international level.

3D Printing on Textiles – Overview of Research on Adhesion to Woven Fabrics

3D printing on textiles has great potential to influence developments in various industries. It enables the production of new, potentially personalised products in areas such as technical textiles, protective clothing, medical products, fashion, textile and interior design. 3D printing can also contribute to waste-free production processes. In the method of 3D printing on textiles, the material is applied directly to the textile substrate to create 3D objects, patterns or designs on the surface. The fused deposition modelling (FDM) technology, where thermoplastic filaments are extruded and deposited in thin layers based on a 3D model, is widely used for this purpose. A precise control of factors such as temperature and speed is essential in FDM to regulate the flow of polymer material during the printing process. The most commonly used polymer for 3D printing on textiles using FDM is polylactic acid (PLA). Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) is another widely used material, known for its low shrinkage rate and high printing accuracy, while thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) is used due to its exceptional mechanical properties, e.g. tensile strength, flexibility, durability and corrosion resistance. Good adhesion between 3D printed objects and the textile surface is essential for the production of quality products. Adhesion depends on various factors, e.g. textile properties, printing parameters and the type of polymer used. The composition of the woven fabric, including the areal density, warp and weft density, yarn count, fabric thickness and weave pattern, significantly affects the adhesion strength of the 3D printed polymer. When considering double weaves, which allow different materials in the upper and lower layers, better adhesion properties are found than at single weaves. A cross-sectional analysis revealed that the polymer penetrates deeper into a double-woven fabric, resulting in improved adhesion. In general, the study highlights the advantages of double weaves for 3D printing applications on textiles.