Fashion Culture Research Articles

Fashion suX: A Story of Anger as (Un)Sustainable Energy

ABSTRACT Fashion suX is an artistic research project of imaginative utopia creation in the tradition of Thomas More. But instead of an imaginary society on an island, the project explores how a radically different fashion culture could emerge in the footsteps of hardcore and Straight Edge metal. The project specifically examines the underground fashion and craft movement that called themselves suXers (sometimes referred to as “sustainable fashion Straight Edge”). Radically opposing the “do-good” ethics of consumerist sustainability, the suXers embody an ethic that imbues not only clothes and lifestyle but also an infuriated rejection of the fashion system's sartorial betrayal. Opposition needs other motivations than pure virtue, and anger can be one such motivation, as exemplified by the suXers.

Fashion and East Asia: Cultural translations and East Asian perspectives

Abstract

패션문화상품으로서 가방 디자인 개발- 백제 역사∙문화 콘텐츠를 중심으로 -

As the number of foreigners who visit South Korea due to the influence of the Korean Wave, the need for research on fashion culture products has risen as well. It is necessary to produce cultural products suitable for the global design sense and trend. This study aims to develop bag design as fashion cultural product by utilizing the excellence of Baekje culture. Though Baekje’s culture is considered to have the most refined culture out of the Three Kingdoms in ancient Korea, it has been marginalized by people as a ‘lost culture.’ This study chose bags as its subject as its cultural item because it recognized that there are unvaried contents of the existing cultural products and lack of fashionability. The research method is summarized as follows: First, this study used literature research to examine the concept and types of fashion cultural products, and to investigate the status of domestic and foreign fashion cultural products with a focus on bags. Second, this study investigated the history and types of bags. Third, the study performed literature study and status survey to develop a bag design that can be utilized in the future Korean market. The results of the study are as follows. The types of bags used in the study were clutch and tote bags, and the material types were leather and neoprene. For the textile expression techniques, a Digital Textile Printer (DTP) and a transcription printer were used. The goal of this study is to present an opportunity for designers to visualize the historical and cultural images of the Baekje period, and utilize them as fashion cultural products.

현대 패션에 나타난 트위닝 경향과 내적 의미

The purpose of this study is to determine the trend of the twinning in contemporary fashion and to find its internal meaning. The research method adopts an examination of the literature and a case study on the twinning from 2013 S/S to 2017 S/S. The results show that, in the fashion collection, the twinning was used as a tool to highlight the season’s concept or design and in the designers’ presentation in an experimental trial. In fashion advertising, this was utilized as a marketing strategy, whereby models that represent a twin image, twin sisters, or a mother and daughter pair were selected to portray differentiated visual images of homosexuality or ambiguous sexual identity. In the fashion magazines, the emphasis was placed on the twinning look trend, portrayed on the cover or in pictorial articles, and the sensible mode was presented. In social media, the twinning has mainly been expressed in images of the daily routine of a well-known star, whereby the social media platform provides the public with easy access to the star. In the social media, space was provided for communication to describe the star’s personality and sensual fashion style. However, the model type and presentation method of the twinning were similar among the media. This examination demonstrates that the twinning stresses a differentiated personality and style, overcomes a sense of alienation through a shared aesthetic, and generates a fashion culture developed from the change in society on the perception of gender.

트랜스미디어에 나타난 패션 문화 콘텐츠의 매개특성 연구 : 20세기 이후 현대 패션사를 중심으로

The purpose of this study is to analyze modern fashion culture in the 20th century through changes in transmedia in order to better understand characteristics of fashion contents. The study also strived to identify the characteristics of remediation in modern fashion and media by exploring the cultural code, and use it to establish an integrated view. The subjects and the method of the study are as follows. First, the study analyzed the development of transmedia and fashion culture since the 20th century. Second, it identified the transitional characteristics of transmedia. Third, the study analyzed the characteristics of remediation in modern fashion culture by using the characteristics of mediation, which appeared with the transitional characteristics of transmedia.<BR> The study results are as follows. First, the types of remediation are ‘borrowing,’ ‘Representation,’ ‘Expansion,’ ‘Refashion,’ and ‘Absorb.’ In old and new media, each type can be aesthetically experienced in ‘transparency,’ opaqueness,’ ‘Hypermediacy,’ and ‘Immediacy.’ Second, fashion culture can undergo a transformation from its original form to a second and a third iteration, and this process allows for possibility of an expansion of multiple plots and well-rounded character settings. This opens up the possibility for fashion consumer participation, and signifies a transition into an environment where expansion of time and space is possible. The third finding is the non-mediation of fashion objects. The mediating relationship between clothes and media is directly connected to the development of new media. The immersion of new media by fashion consumers has the characteristics of ‘transparency’/ ’Non-mediation,’ and the reinterpretation and reproduction of original fashion styles have the characteristics of ‘opaqueness’/’Hyper-mediation.’ Fourth, fashion culture has data variability. Through ‘Borrowing,’ ‘Representation,’ ‘Expansion,’ ‘Remodeling,’ and ‘Absorption,’ the cultural hierarchy of reproduced fashion forms a multi-layered integrated network. Mediation code, which repurposes fashion culture contents, also creates new media fashion through transmedia.

SENTRA BATIK SEBAGAI DESTINASI WISATA DENGAN PENDEKATAN KEARIFAN LOKAL DI SURAKARTA

&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; color: #212121; background-image: initial; background-position: initial; background-size: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-attachment: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial;"&gt;In this modern era, batik fashion has begun to be ignored by the entry of foreign fashion culture that makes clothing in the country is less desirable. With declining public interest in Indonesian culture of batik, the authors took the initiative wants facilitate batik entrepreneurs large and small, to cooperate in preserving and developing batik. Not only provide container, but gave the tourist attractions in batik. So, traveled as well as learn about batik. Containers to be built covers several activities related to batik. Batik is not only in terms of clothing, batik can be applied to the world of architecture such as the application forms of the motif into the building. Implementation into the building that is the basic form, the skin and the elements in buildings. The issue is how to design a form Sentra Batik design by applying the concept of Local Wisdom, which raises the shape of the building with a mix of local culture and foreign culture. The method used is the method of architectural design. The result of the design of a regional architecture concept Sentra Batik with Local Wisdom is applied to the shape of the building as Joglo with a combination of forms of batik motif on building elements.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;strong style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;span style="font-size: 10.0pt; font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';"&gt;Keywords&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;em style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-size: 10.0pt; font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';"&gt;:&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;em style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;em style="text-align: justify;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-size: 10.0pt; font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';"&gt;Batik, Batik Tourism, Local Wisdom, Sentra Batik.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;pre style="margin: 0in 39.55pt 0.0001pt 31.5pt; text-align: justify; background-image: initial; background-position: initial; background-size: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-attachment: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial;"&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; color: #212121; background-image: initial; background-position: initial; background-size: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-attachment: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial;"&gt;In this modern era, batik fashion has begun to be ignored by the entry of foreign fashion culture that makes clothing in the country is less desirable. With declining public interest in Indonesian culture of batik, the authors took the initiative wants facilitate batik entrepreneurs large and small, to cooperate in preserving and developing batik. Not only provide container, but gave the tourist attractions in batik. So, traveled as well as learn about batik. Containers to be built covers several activities related to batik. Batik is not only in terms of clothing, batik can be applied to the world of architecture such as the application forms of the motif into the building. Implementation into the building that is the basic form, the skin and the elements in buildings. The issue is how to design a form Sentra Batik design by applying the concept of Local Wisdom, which raises the shape of the building with a mix of local culture and foreign culture. The method used is the method of architectural design. The result of the design of a regional architecture concept Sentra Batik with Local Wisdom is applied to the shape of the building as Joglo with a combination of forms of batik motif on building elements.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;p class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst" style="margin-top: 0in; margin-right: 39.55pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-left: 31.5pt; mso-add-space: auto; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph; line-height: normal; tab-stops: 6.0in;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-size: 10.0pt; font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif';"&gt; &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;span style="font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif'; mso-fareast-font-family: SimSun; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA;"&gt;Keywords&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;span style="font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif'; mso-fareast-font-family: SimSun; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA;"&gt;:&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: 'Times New Roman','serif'; mso-fareast-font-family: SimSun; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA;"&gt;Batik, Batik Tourism, Local Wisdom, Sentra Batik.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/em&gt;

Book Review: Fashion Fads through American History: Fitting Clothes into Context

Many works have explored the history of dress and its significance in larger cultural movements, such as the detailed overviews of clothing customs addressed in Clothing through American History edited by Amy T. Peterson and Amy T. Kellogg (Greenwood 2008) or the insightful works of Valerie Steele including the Berg Companion to Fashion (Oxford 2010) and Fifty Years of Fashion (Yale 2000). However, most of these works look at the seminal movements and most enduring fashion statements while this volume addresses the more ephemeral but still significant fads in fashion culture.

Pengaruh Budaya Organisasi Terhadap Agilitas Organisasi (Study Pada Fashion X)

An organization has the characteristic or particular identity for the purpose of uniting its members so as to have an overview of running the organization as reflected by the organizational culture in it. Strong organizational culture is one way to achieve agility, the new management approach to deal with changes. This research aimed to find out how the organizational culture and organizational agility and the influence of organizational culture on organizational agility in the case study at Fashion X. In this research method used quantitative and descriptive method and using questionnaires that distributed to 131 respondents and interviews. The study states that the organizational culture and organizational agility in Fashion X quite good, even though it needs upgrading for adhocracy, hierarchy, and competency. Both variables have strong positive relationship amounted to 0,548 and in Fashion X 30% organizational agility affected by organizational culture. Additionally regression equation Y = 64.323 + 0,657X. Organizational culture can be improved by increasing risk-taking by creating small teams, develop products, gathering, team building to enhance the innovative thought leaders, improving the way for more efficient delivery of goods, execution, product’s strategy, situational leadership, technology, the power of employees, organizational ability, organizational changes, and customer’s services.

Pengaruh Budaya Organisasi Terhadap Agilitas Organisasi (Study Pada Fashion X)

An organization has the characteristic or particular identity for the purpose of uniting its members so as to have an overview of running the organization as reflected by the organizational culture in it. Strong organizational culture is one way to achieve agility, the new management approach to deal with changes. This research aimed to find out how the organizational culture and organizational agility and the influence of organizational culture on organizational agility in the case study at Fashion X. In this research method used quantitative and descriptive method and using questionnaires that distributed to 131 respondents and interviews. The study states that the organizational culture and organizational agility in Fashion X quite good, even though it needs upgrading for adhocracy, hierarchy, and competency. Both variables have strong positive relationship amounted to 0,548 and in Fashion X 30% organizational agility affected by organizational culture. Additionally regression equation Y = 64.323 + 0,657X. Organizational culture can be improved by increasing risk-taking by creating small teams, develop products, gathering, team building to enhance the innovative thought leaders, improving the way for more efficient delivery of goods, execution, product’s strategy, situational leadership, technology, the power of employees, organizational ability, organizational changes, and customer’s services.

The Practice of Theorizing Fashion

The Practice of Theorizing Fashion

Signs of Wear: Encountering Memory in the Worn Materiality of a Museum Fashion Collection

Historical clothes are more than just examples of how past societies dressed—they are imbued with small details of individual lives in their marks of wear. This article explores how these marks evoke memories, and how setting up interactions between personal memories and the materiality of fashion objects creates opportunities for new perspectives in the field of fashion history. The article opens by considering how historians might draw on the methodologies of material culture and archival co-authorship to bring memories into collections research. In order to illustrate these ideas, the article then presents objects from the Museum of London’s fashion collection alongside the author’s own family photographs and stories to show how integrating her grandmother’s memories into her material culture research disrupted the conventional narratives of 1940s austerity fashion. The article concludes by considering how the application of memory to collections research might inform the way that fashion objects are displayed in museums. It suggests that, by focusing on the relationship between visitor memories and the small details of how a garment has been worn and used, museums could create displays which disrupt historical orthodoxies and reveal how echoes of the past continue to shape contemporary fashion cultures.

Tokyo Halloween on the Street

Drawing on perspectives related to fashion and consumerist cultures on the one hand and anthropology and appropriation on the other hand, this paper addresses dressing up on the streets during the celebration of Halloween in Tokyo, Japan. By relating commercially marketed Halloween fun-dress to longtime existing Japanese, European, and American cultural practices, we aim to show how Americanized “poplore” culture in Japan after the 1970s interacts with and empowers local practices. Evidence is based on the authors’ personal observations of Halloween in Tokyo on October 31, 2015. We examined Halloween promotion in visual media and shopping culture, studied the costumes and dressing up, and participated in the evening of Halloween on October 31, 2015 by wearing zombie makeup on the streets.

Researching fashion studies: A brief historiography

Fashion is often held synonymous with frivolity, excess, and luxury; as such, the study of costume history and theory has historically been considered impractical or subsidiary. The significant rise in costume education and scholarship during the 20th century has brought new and more frequent queries regarding the histories of fashion, etiquette, and material culture to our libraries. We are now often asked to assist in researches of cultures of style, and how they may be analyzed in a multidisciplinary context. Is it possible to analyze fashion trends through the lens of the law? Are effects of American colonialism present in fashion trends today? This brief historiography of costume and fashion studies seeks to utilize a multi- and interdisciplinary lens that reference librarians may employ to assist patrons with style-related inquiries.

Gene Expression of Gamma Secretase (GS) Complex-Related Proteins, the Enzyme That Sheds B-Cell Maturation Antigen (BCMA), Among Patients with Multiple Myeloma (MM) and Effects of the GS Inhibitor LSN424354 on Solubilized Bcma in MM and Chronic Lymphocytic Leukemia

Introduction: B-cell maturation antigen (BCMA) has been shown to be highly expressed on the surface of tumor cells from patients (pts) with multiple myeloma (MM) and chronic lymphocytic leukemia (CLL) and is the target for therapeutic approaches in these diseases. Our group has shown that serum and plasma levels of BCMA correlate with disease status and survival in MM and CLL patients. We have recently shown that solubilized BCMA prevents its ligand B cell activating factor (BAFF) from binding and stimulating B-cells to produce polyclonal antibody. Recently, γ-secretase has been identified as the enzyme that leads to shedding of BCMA from off of B-cells. Gamma secretase is a multi-subunit protease complex that includes four individual proteins: presenilin-1 (PSEN1), nicastrin, anterior pharynx-defective 1 (APH-1), and presenilin enhancer 2 (PEN-2). CD147 is as a non-essential regulator of the complex. We examined gene expression of PSEN1, APH-1, PEN-2, and CD147 in MM pts with progressive (PD) and in complete remission (CR). We also determined the effects of the gamma secretase inhibitor (GSI) LSN424354 (Eli Lilly), a selective small-molecule inhibitor, on solubilized BCMA levels in MM and CLL tumor cells.Methods: Bone marrow (BM) mononuclear cells (MCs) were isolated from MM pts following Western Institutional Review Board (WIRB) approval and informed consent in accordance with the Declaration of Helsinki. Total RNA was extracted using the Qiagen RNeasy kit (Qiagen, Louisville, KY 40219) following the manufacturer’s instructions. Quantitative PCR (qPCR) was applied to measure the relative abundance of human PSEN1, APH-1, PEN-2, and CD147 mRNA compared to that of the housekeeping gene HPRT mRNA. qPCR was performed using TaqMan technology on an OneStepPlus instrument (Life Technology, Grand Island, NY 14072) and followed the standard procedure. Peripheral blood MCs were obtained from patients with CLL. The human MM LAGκ-1A xenograft was grown in the left superficial gluteal muscle of SCID mice for six weeks and removed. Single-cell suspensions were prepared. LAGκ-1A or CLL tumor cells were treated with the GSI LSN424354 in a concentration dependent fashion, and BCMA levels were determined using an ELISA (R&D Systems, Minneapolis, MN) assay. MM tumor cells were treated with the LSN424354 and performed non-radioactive MTS cell proliferation assay following a standard MTS protocol.Results: qPCR showed PEN-2 gene expression was slightly increased among MM patients in PD compared to those in CR or normal subjects whereas there was no change in expression of the PSEN1 or APH1 genes. CD147 gene expression was markedly increased in MM pts in PD (n=25) compared to those in CR (n=18; P=0.005) or MGUS (n=9; P=0.005). Next, we determined the effect of the GSI LSN424354 on cultured MM or CLL tumor cells. The GSI inhibitor LSN424354 markedly reduced BCMA levels (> 90%) in supernatants from human MM LAGκ-1A cells after 5 days of tissue culture in a dose dependent fashion at concentrations ranging from 100 pM to 10 nM. Similarly, freshly obtained CLL tumor cells exposed to LSN424354 at concentrations similarly from 100 pM to 10 nM also showed a marked reduction (also > 90%) in supernatant BCMA levels. Notably, MTS assay results showed LSN424354 did not inhibit cell proliferation in MM or CLL tumor cells at concentrations up to 100 nM.Conclusion: Gamma secretase sheds BCMA off of B-cells. CD147, a regulator of gamma secretase activity, shows markedly higher gene expression in MM pts with PD compared to those in CR or MGUS individuals. The GSI LSN424354 reduces solubilized BCMA from tumor cells from CLL patients and human MM xenografts. Since CD147 has been shown to be present in serum, we are currently evaluating CD147 in serum samples from pts with MM and other plasma cell dyscrasias. In addition, we are examining the expression of BCMA on the surface of tumor cells from MM and CLL pts following exposure to BCMA, whether this GSI by reducing solubilized BCMA levels can reverse the immune dysfunction in mice bearing MM, and improve the efficacy of anti-BCMA antibody therapies. DisclosuresBerenson:OncoTracker: Employment, Equity Ownership.

ANALISIS SEMIOTIKA ROLAND BARTHES TENTANG FENOMENA JILBOOBS

Hijab/jilbab is a cloth to cover all of women’s body except face and two palms. Now, there is one controversial Hijab trend, which is Jilboobs phenomenon. Basically, jilboobs means have deviation meaning from the nature of veil. Jilboobs is a critic to Muslim women who wear hijab, but they still wear tight dress or blouse. It causes their indentation body looked very clear, especially in her chest. Then, the jilboobs phenomenon is a sign in fashion culture which very interference how Muslim teenagers to dress up now. The function of jibab is not to cover women genitals anymore, but it becomes a mode that break out the religion rules. The jilboobs phenomenon is a negative connotation from the real jilbab function. The writers used Semiotics theory from Roland Barthes to discuss this jilboobs phenomenon. It tried to reveal about abusing the real jilbab function as covering Muslim women’s genitals and a religion symbol.

‘Buttons no Bigger than Nutmegs’: The Clothing of Country Gentlemen, C1660–1715

This article is about the clothing of country gentlemen in late seventeenth and early eighteenth century England. It begins with an exploration of the London-centric depiction in popular literature of country gentlemen as old fashioned in their manners, dress and lifestyle. It then explores the main elements of male fashion and the role of London in creating and disseminating it. Drawing on surviving clothing accounts, it subsequently offers a detailed analysis of what a number of country gentlemen were wearing during this period, exploring the extent to which they participated in London's fashion culture and their preferences for London-bought clothing.

현대적 문화 의류상품 속성에 따른 소비자 반응과 소비자 행동

Within globalization of fashion business Korean culture is affecting fashion business. Although Korean culture is creating new content and economic value presently, the research on Korean fashion culture has been limited. Therefore, this study has identified attributes influencing cognitive, affective response as well as consumer preference and purchase towards contemporary Korean culture clothing. This study aims to do the following: (1) examine the effect of the identified contemporary cultural apparel product attributes on cognitive, affective response (2) Analyze the effect of cognitive, affective response on preference and purchase intention (3) Determine the relationship between preference and purchase intention. This study result defines the importance of studying contemporary cultural apparel product attributes for better fashion marketing business in the fashion and cultural field to attract consumers.

Facile Modulation of Antibody Fucosylation with Small Molecule Fucostatin Inhibitors and Cocrystal Structure with GDP-Mannose 4,6-Dehydratase.

The efficacy of therapeutic antibodies that induce antibody-dependent cellular cytotoxicity can be improved by reduced fucosylation. Consequently, fucosylation is a critical product attribute of monoclonal antibodies produced as protein therapeutics. Small molecule fucosylation inhibitors have also shown promise as potential therapeutics in animal models of tumors, arthritis, and sickle cell disease. Potent small molecule metabolic inhibitors of cellular protein fucosylation, 6,6,6-trifluorofucose per-O-acetate and 6,6,6-trifluorofucose (fucostatin I), were identified that reduces the fucosylation of recombinantly expressed antibodies in cell culture in a concentration-dependent fashion enabling the controlled modulation of protein fucosylation levels. 6,6,6-Trifluorofucose binds at an allosteric site of GDP-mannose 4,6-dehydratase (GMD) as revealed for the first time by the X-ray cocrystal structure of a bound allosteric GMD inhibitor. 6,6,6-Trifluorofucose was found to be incorporated in place of fucose at low levels (<1%) in the glycans of recombinantly expressed antibodies. A fucose-1-phosphonate analog, fucostatin II, was designed that inhibits fucosylation with no incorporation into antibody glycans, allowing the production of afucosylated antibodies in which the incorporation of non-native sugar is completely absent-a key advantage in the production of therapeutic antibodies, especially biosimilar antibodies. Inhibitor structure-activity relationships, identification of cellular and inhibitor metabolites in inhibitor-treated cells, fucose competition studies, and the production of recombinant antibodies with varying levels of fucosylation are described.

“The Models for Africa”: Accra's Independence-Era Fashion Culture and the Creations of Chez Julie

“The Models for Africa”: Accra's Independence-Era Fashion Culture and the Creations of Chez Julie

한국 20 · 30대 여성의 직장 복식규범과 갈등 : 직장의 유형에 따른 현황조사를 중심으로

Abstract This study examined the fashion culture of 20-30s working women through clothing norm relationshipsin the workplace. A literature research was conducted along with qualitative research, in-depth interviews inorder to understand the domestic working environment and fashion culture such as lifestyle and consumerculture characteristics of 20-30s working women. The results were: First, it showed that the increased num-ber of members having various inclinations caused subcultures through an increase of women's economicactivities and transition to a knowledge-information society in domestic work places that changed into abusiness casual that recognized employees' autonomy and diversity. Second, in the working place, clothingnorms coexist as stipulated by statutes, company rules, and official documents as well as others implied byexperiences of sanction against members. Workplace closing norms are classified into norms of exposurethat draw attention to clothes and casual clothes. Third, it showed that factors pressuring clothing norms areclassified as external pressures and by spontaneous self-censorship that cause conflict and confusion withworking women's fashion according to the degree of pressure. Two kinds of pressure by others (or types ofdepartments and members) were observed.Key words: Clothing norm, 20 · 30s working women, Work place fashion culture, Normative conflict; 복식규범, 20 · 30대 직장 여성, 직장 패션문화, 규범갈등