Coastal Cliff Erosion Research Articles

Reconciling short- and long-term measurements of coastal cliff erosion rates

Oblique terrestrial laser scanning (TLS) enables topographic change detection at scales (10−1 –100 cm) that are appropriate for coastal cliff erosion monitoring. Despite this, published applications of TLS on cliff are limited to a small number of sites around the world. Here we report new TLS point cloud datasets from 9 years of monitoring (2014–2023) at Rothesay Bay within the Hauraki Gulf, New Zealand, which has relatively low wave energy and a meso-tidal range. The 120 m-length scan area includes cliffs of 10–30 m height, formed of horizontally bedded soft sedimentary flysch rock. The cliffs are fronted by an 140 m wide near-horizontal shore platform that terminates in an abrupt seaward edge. Previous research at this site has estimated long-term cliff erosion rates within a range of 1.4 ± 0.1 to 14.3 ± 0.1 mm/year on the basis of measured shore platform width, assuming that the shore platform has widened over time over 6000 years of stable Holocene sea level, and that the seaward edge of the shore platform has not retreated. Volumetric cliff-face erosion rates were detected through 17 scans over a 9-year window (2014–2023), including intensive monthly TLS scanning between July 2021 and July 2022. Results show that the average cliff recession rate over the past decade has been 41 ± 2 mm/year, and monthly scans show a range in erosion rates of 30 to 288 mm/year. The cliff recession rate detected with TLS is 3 to 30 times higher than erosion rates derived based on the shore platform width. If erosion had been constant at this rate over approximately 6000 years, a total cliff retreat of >245 m would be expected, whereas the contemporary shore platform is only 140 m wide. We discuss two possible hypotheses for the confounding width of the modern shore platform: 1) that modern cliff retreat rates are faster than past erosion rates; 2) that the seaward edge of the shore platform does not reliably demarcate Holocene cliff recession. We present new bathymetric survey mapping seaward of the shore platform edge that reveals multiple rocky features that are distinguished by steep slope breaks and planar surfaces. Understanding the evolution of the intertidal shore platforms during the Holocene era may necessitate new insights on how cliffs formed toward the end of the last marine transgression. This could potentially be investigated through the study of subtidal marine bathymetry.

Sedimentary Coastal Cliff Erosion in Greenland

AbstractClimate change will increase the duration of annual sea‐ice‐free periods and shift precipitation patterns across the Arctic. Those factors are likely to increase erosion rates along its coasts. Large parts of the Arctic coast consist of hard rock. However, glacial, deltaic, and coastal sedimentary deposits occur in deglaciated areas and isostatic uplift following glaciations has created beach ridge plains and pocket beaches with coarse soft‐sediment cliffs. Hitherto, very little was known about the spatial distribution, erosion rates, and morphodynamics of soft sediment cliffs along the coast of Greenland. Here, we investigate a 3‐km sedimentary cliff section on the south coast of Qeqertarsuaq (Disko Island). We measured 2D cliff top erosion over 50 years between 1964 and 2014 as well as 3D cliff profile change over 2 years between 2019 and 2021. Morphometric indices of the gravel beach and cliff were calculated based on a series of cross‐shore elevation profiles. Wave run‐up at the beach fronting the cliff was modeled with XBeach‐G for a series of storm events under present day sea‐ice conditions and for a reduced sea‐ice scenario. Cliff top erosion rates varied along the cliff with maximum rates of 0.3 m y−1. The investigated coastal cliff erodes by two coupled processes: (a) precipitation‐driven surface runoff downslope the cliff and (b) wave‐driven erosion at the cliff toe. In a continuously warming climate, this study shows that erosion of soft coastal cliffs in Greenland thus can accelerate due to increased storminess and prolonging open water periods.

Late Holocene Cliff Retreat in Del Mar, CA, Revealed From Shore Platform 10Be Concentrations and Numerical Modeling

AbstractRocky coast cliff retreat presents a hazard to coastal communities and infrastructure that is potentially amplified under rising sea level conditions, among other factors. Unfortunately, constraints on retreat rates are typically limited to those derived from imagery and maps spanning the last ∼100 years. Here, we use a newly developed coupled model of shore platform profile evolution and cosmogenic radionuclide production that considers the influence of relative sea level (RSL) rise, weathering, material resistance, and wave height decay to model cliff retreat over millennial timescales and its potential drivers in Del Mar, California. We demonstrate the ability to use topographic and bathymetric measurements from a narrow shore platform along with a limited data set of nine cosmogenic 10Be concentrations extending ∼125 m from the cliff base to obtain modeled cliff retreat rates that steadily range from 5.0 to 12.5 cm yr−1 over the last two millennia until 100 years before present. These rates are consistent with modern retreat rates of about 2–19 cm yr−1 here. RSL rise in Southern California remained relatively constant during the late Holocene, potentially explaining the relatively stable modeled cliff retreat rate over this time. We also explore the relative influence of weathering, material resistance, and wave erosion efficacy and find that both weathering and wave‐driven erosion are necessary to replicate the measured data at this location, with the latter exerting a stronger control on model acceptance, suggesting that waves may provide a possible mechanism by which RSL rise may influence coastal cliff erosion in southern California.

Holocene and historic rates of rock coast erosion – A discussion focussed on Southeast England

Cliff erosion is of concern along inhabited coastlines especially under a scenario of increasing sea level rise. Extrapolation of past erosion rates are often used as a first approximation of future rates, which are or form part of the input into numerical models. However, cliff erosion rates in the Holocene are poorly understood. This is due to the generally short record based on historical maps, which can mask or accentuate erosion rates based on different event frequencies, and, for the more recent cosmogenic exposure dating method, it reflects the large number of variables influencing the concentration of cosmogenic nuclides in rocks at the surface of intertidal shore platforms. The study uses historic maps that go back 400 years, updated (to 2020) recent erosion rates, evidence from mid-Holocene terrestrial habitats in front of present-day cliffs, and a geomorphological landscape type interpretation to provide a better understanding of cliff evolution and erosion history for the cliffs in East Sussex (Southeast England). The paper demonstrates that cliff erosion can only have started in the last few centuries with remnants of Eemian cliffs still present in places. This is supported by published 10Be data. The coastline investigated also shows a persistent decrease in erosion rates to less than half the maximum rate observed in the late 19th to early 20th century despite sea level rise. As a consequence, it appears imperative to understand the local drivers of coastal cliff erosion to assess the future consequences of climate change rather than applying general concepts for example in relation to erosion changes with increasing sea level rise.

Coastal cliff erosion as a source of toxic, essential and nonessential metals in the marine environment

Due to the rising environmental awareness, emissions and releases of pollutants, including metals, have been considerably reduced in the last decades. Therefore, the remobilization of natural and anthropogenic contaminants is gaining importance in their biogeochemical cycle. In the marine coastal zone, this process occurs during the erosion of a shore, especially the most vulnerable cliffs. The research was conducted in the Gulf of Gdańsk (southern Baltic Sea) from 2016 to 2017. The sediment cores were collected from four cliffs; additionally, marine surface sediments were also taken. The concentrations of essential (Cr, Mn, Fr, Cu, Zn) and nonessential (Rb, Sr, Y, Zr, Ba) metals were analyzed using the XRF technique. The levels of the analyzed metals were relatively low, typical of nonpolluted areas. However, considering the mass of eroded sediments, the annual load of metals introduced into the sea in this way is significant. In the case of Cu, Zn, and Y the load can amount to a few kilograms, for Cr and Rb – over ten kilograms, for Mn, Sr, and Zr – several tens of kilograms, for toxic Ba – over 100 kg, and in the case of Fe – 4.8 tonnes. During strong winds and storms, when the upper part of a cliff is eroded, especially the load of Zn and Cr entering the sea may increase. The content of Cr, Zr, and Ba in the cliffs was higher compared to marine sediments from the deep accumulation bottom, which indicates that coastal erosion may be an important source of these metals.

CliffDelineaTool v1.2.0: an algorithm for identifying coastal cliff base and top positions

Abstract. Correct quantification of coastal cliff erosion requires accurate delineation of the cliff face bounded by the cliff top and base lines. Manual mapping is time consuming and relies on the mapper's decisions and skills. Existing algorithms are generally site specific and may be less suitable for areas with diverse cross-shore cliff geometries. Here we describe CliffDelineaTool (v1.2.0), a MATLAB/Python-based algorithm that identifies cliff base and top positions on complex cliffs using cross-shore transects extracted from digital elevation models. Testing on four 750–1200 m cliffed coastlines shows that the model performance is comparable to manual mapping and provides some advantages over existing methods but provides poor results for cliff sections with ambiguous cliff top edges. The results can form the basis for a range of analyses, including coastal inventories, erosion measurements, spatiotemporal erosion trends, and coastline evolution modeling.

The effects of storms and a transient sandy veneer on the interannual planform evolution of a low-relief coastal cliff and shore platform at Sargent Beach, Texas, USA

Abstract. Coastal cliff erosion is alongshore-variable and episodic, with retreat rates that depend upon sediment as either tools of abrasion or protective cover. However, the feedbacks between coastal cliff planform morphology, retreat rate, and sediment cover are poorly quantified. This study investigates Sargent Beach, Texas, USA, at the annual to interannual scale to explore (1) the relationship between temporal and spatial variability in cliff retreat rate, roughness, and sinuosity and (2) the response of retreat rate and roughness to changes in sand and shell hash cover of the underlying mud substrate as well as the impact of major storms using field measurements of sediment cover, erosion, and aerial images to measure shore platform morphology and retreat. A storm event in 2009 increased the planform roughness and sinuosity of the coastal cliff at Sargent Beach. Following the storm, aerial-image-derived shorelines with annual resolution show a decrease in average alongshore erosion rates from 12 to 4 m yr−1, coincident with a decrease in shoreline roughness and sinuosity (smoothing). Like the previous storm, a storm event in 2017 increased the planform roughness and sinuosity of the cliff. Over shorter timescales, monthly retreat of the sea cliff occurred only when the platform was sparsely covered with sediment cover on the shore platform, indicating that the tools and cover effects can significantly affect short-term erosion rates. The timescale to return to a smooth shoreline following a storm or roughening event, given a steady-state erosion rate, is approximately 24 years, with the long-term rate suggesting a maximum of ∼107 years until Sargent Beach breaches, compromising the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GIWW) under current conditions and assuming no future storms or intervention. The observed retreat rate varies, both spatially and temporally, with cliff face morphology, demonstrating the importance of multi-scale measurements and analysis for interpretation of coastal processes and patterns of cliff retreat.

Automating coastal cliff erosion measurements from large-area LiDAR datasets in California, USA

Quantifying coastal cliff erosion is critical for improved predictions of coastal change and coastal management. However, few studies have been conducted at a scale (>100 km) and resolution (~1 m) sufficient to constrain regional change. Here, we quantified cliff erosion for 866 km of the California coastline using airborne LiDAR data collected in 2009–2011 and 2016. A semi-automated method was used to map cliff faces. Negative (volume loss) and positive (volume gain) change objects were created by grouping adjacent cells using vertical and areal change thresholds and surface optical signatures. We assessed the performance of five machine learning algorithms to separate erosion and deposition from other changes within the cliff face, notably vegetation loss and growth, and found that discriminant analysis performed best. After applying the classification method to the entire cliff change dataset, the results were visually inspected for quality control, producing a final dataset comprised of 45,699 erosion and 1728 deposition objects. The net volume loss from 2009–2011 to 2016 was 1.24 × 107 m3, equivalent to an erosion rate of 2.47 m3 yr−1 per meter of coastline, and an average cliff retreat rate of 0.06 m yr−1. Eroded volumes ranged from 6.43 m3 to 7.52 × 105 m3 and fit a power-law frequency distribution (β = 0.80; r2 = 0.99). Over this study period, 7% of eroded material remained on the cliff face. Cliff retreat rates varied spatially with the highest rates in Humboldt County (0.18 m yr−1) and the lowest in Orange County (0.003 m yr−1).

Three years of weekly observations of coastal cliff erosion by waves and rainfall

Erosion of a 2.5 km-long sedimentary coastal cliff by waves and rainfall is explored with three years of weekly observations. A truck-mounted lidar resolved the fronting beach and convoluted surface of the ~10–25 m high cliffs. Volumes of 4362 cliff erosion events ranged up to 885 m3 (mean 3.3 m3). The three-year cumulative erosion was clustered and alongshore variable. Cliff base wave impact heights were estimated with a wave model and empirical runup formula, and validated with cliff base observations. Cliff erosion rates, incident wave heights, wave-cliff impacts, and rainfall were all elevated during winters. The high temporal resolution of the multiyear dataset is unique, and allows separation of erosion from waves and rainfall by, for example, isolating time periods with no rainfall and high wave runup. Upper cliff erosion was best correlated with rainfall (r2 = 0.57), and lower cliff erosion with wave impacts (r2 = 0.56).

Bringing Bathymetry LiDAR to Coastal Zone Assessment: A Case Study in the Southern Baltic

One of the major tasks in environmental protection is monitoring the coast for negative impacts due to climate change and anthropopressure. Remote sensing techniques are often used in studies of impact assessment. Topographic and bathymetric procedures are treated as separate measurement methods, while methods that combine coastal zone analysis with underwater impacts are rarely used in geotechnical analyses. This study presents an assessment of the bathymetry airborne system used for coastal monitoring, taking into account environmental conditions and providing a comparison with other monitoring methods. The tests were carried out on a section of the Baltic Sea where, despite successful monitoring, coastal degradation continues. This technology is able to determine the threat of coastal cliff erosion (based on the geotechnical analyses). Shallow depths have been reported to be a challenge for bathymetric Light Detection and Ranging (LiDAR), due to the difficulty in separating surface, water column and bottom reflections from each other. This challenge was overcome by describing the classification method used which was the CANUPO classification method as the most suitable for the point cloud processing. This study presents an innovative approach to identifying natural hazards, by combining analyses of coastal features with underwater factors. The main goal of this manuscript is to assess the suitability of using bathymetry scanning in the Baltic Sea to determine the factors causing coastal erosion. Furthermore, a geotechnical analysis was conducted, taking into account geometrical ground change underwater. This is the first study which uses a coastal monitoring approach, combining geotechnical computations with remote sensing data. This interdisciplinary scientific research can increase the awareness of the environmental processes.

Application of Structure-from-Motion Terrestrial Photogrammetry to the Assessment of Coastal Cliff Erosion Processes in SW Spain

Del Río, L.; Posanski, D.; Gracia, F.J. and Pérez-Romero, A.M., 2020. Application of structure-from-motion terrestrial photogrammetry to the assessment of coastal cliff erosion processes in SW Spain. In: Malvárez, G. and Navas, F. (eds.), Global Coastal Issues of 2020. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 95, pp. 1057–1061. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.The episodic and irregular nature of cliff changes makes their assessment a challenging task, essential in order to cope with risks related to cliff erosion. In this work, structure-from-motion terrestrial photogrammetry was used to measure erosion processes in the Torre Bermeja cliff in SW Spain, where cliff instability poses a threat to people walking along the fronting beach. Two sites were investigated on 14 photogrammetric surveys conducted along a 9-month period in order to detect morphological changes in relation to external forces. The erosive events at both sites showed a strong episodic character, with some short periods reflecting intensive erosion and long periods of stability. Average figures for the observation period indicate a mean retreat of 2.8 mm/day at one of the sites and 0.5 mm/day at the other site. The differences were attributed to variations in the lithology and a higher wave exposure of the first site, due to a smaller fronting beach. A comparison of erosion and meteorological data of the survey period showed a positive correlation between mean retreat and maximum rainfall intensity. However, the storms with highest wave heights did not significantly affect the cliff foot, as most wave-related erosion occurred when a modal storm coincided with a high spring tidal range. Therefore, rainfall can be considered as the trigger for most of the erosion events at the study site, although the unstable conditions required for large-scale collapses are generated by wave attack in the first place. In this respect, it is assumed that climate change will lead to higher retreat rates in the investigated cliff, due to a rising mean sea level and a higher frequency of heavy rainfall events.

A Method to Extract Measurable Indicators of Coastal Cliff Erosion from Topographical Cliff and Beach Profiles: Application to North Norfolk and Suffolk, East England, UK

Recession of coastal cliffs (bluffs) is a significant problem globally, as around 80% of Earth’s coastlines are classified as sea cliffs. It has long been recognised that beaches control wave energy dissipation on the foreshore and, as a result, can provide protection from shoreline and cliff erosion. However, there have been few studies that have quantified the relationship between beach levels and cliff recession rates. One of the few quantitative studies has shown that there is a measurable relationship between the beach thickness (or beach wedge area (BWA) as a proxy for beach thickness) and the annual cliff top recession rate along the undefended coast of North Norfolk and Suffolk in eastern England, United Kingdom (UK). Additionally, previous studies also found that for profiles with low BWA, the annual cliff top recession rate frequency distribution follows a bimodal distribution. This observation suggests that as BWA increases, not only does cliff top recession rate become lower, but also more predictable, which has important implications for coastal stakeholders particularly for planning purposes at decadal and longer time scales. In this study, we have addressed some of the limitations of the previous analysis to make it more transferable to other study sites and applicable to longer time scales. In particular, we have automatised the extraction of cliff tops, toe locations, and BWA from elevation profiles. Most importantly, we have verified the basic assumption of space-for-time substitution in three different ways: (1) Extending the number or years analysed in a previous study from 11 to 24 years, (2) extending the number of locations at which cliff top recession rate and BWA are calculated, and (3) exploring the assumption of surface material remaining unchanged over time by using innovative 3D subsurface modelling. The present study contributes to our understanding of a poorly known aspect of cliff–beach interaction and outlines a quantitative approach that allows for simple analysis of widely available topographical elevation profiles, enabling the extraction of measurable indicators of coastal erosion.

Short-term patterns and processes of coastal cliff erosion in Santa Barbara, California

Sequential terrestrial LiDAR scans and 3D volumetric change were used to document coastal cliff erosion at several sites along the coast of Santa Barbara, California. Retreat rates along the base, middle, and cliff top were calculated for six different scans throughout the El Niño of 2015–16 to quantitatively link wave action to cliff base erosion, and two seasonal scans were taken during 2017 to investigate patterns in erosion and retreat rates. Retreat rates along the cliff base, middle, and top converged over the course of the study period and observations and patterns in erosion help characterize the fundamental mechanisms that govern the retreat of soft shale cliffs. The base and middle of the cliff preferentially eroded during high-energy swell events and are strongly coupled, whereas cliff top erosion is temporally variable and retreat rates increased with higher seasonal rainfall totals. We observe that the cliff base experiences erosion from both abrasion and mechanical wave action, but the dominant processes is segregated by elevation above the cliff toe. Abrasion was found to be the dominant processes at elevations up to ~0.8 m above the cliff toe, whereas block removal from mechanical wave action was dominant at elevations above 0.8 m. Threshold behavior was observed for cliff base retreat rates, and Spearman correlation coefficients suggest strong relationships with the sum of the wave energy flux imparted to the cliff base (R2 = 0.84), the sum of the wave energy flux >35,000 W/m (R2 = 0.82), and the average total water level above the cliff toe (R2 = 0.85). Threshold behavior and maximum retreat rates occurred when average total water levels were >0.8 m above the cliff toe. Seasonal Schmidt-hammer measurements suggest that energy thresholds are modulated by weathering rates which remain poorly understood. These thresholds, when exceeded, produced the highest cliff base retreat rates during the study period and reinforce the expectation that coastal cliff retreat rates will increase with rising sea levels.

Observations of surface cobbles at two southern California beaches

Southern California beaches are often sandy, but with largely undocumented cobble patches and berms. We describe the first multi-year, spatially extensive observations of surface cobbles at southern California beaches. The variation (spatial and temporal) of surface cobble distribution and backshore (e.g. upper foreshore) cobble morphology (slope, vertical extent, and elevation) are characterized using 11 years (2008–2018) of observations spanning 4.8 km of shoreline at Cardiff and Torrey Pines State beaches. Quarterly Global Positioning System surveys of beach elevation and visually identified sediment type (either sand or cobble) are used to create 1076 cross-shore profiles. Cobbles were not exposed continuously at either of these predominantly sandy beaches. The 202 cross-shore profiles with backshore cobbles and sandy foreshores are used for morphology analysis. Consistent with previous studies, cobble and sandy morphologies varied seasonally, and cobbles were most exposed during winter when wave energy increased. Extensive (vertical extent ≥ 2 m) backshore cobbles were usually fronted by low elevation, low slope sandy foreshores. At Torrey Pines cobble patches were occasionally exposed mid-profile on primarily sandy summer beaches. Persistent (2008–2015) backshore cobbles at Cardiff were apparently buried in 2016 by effects of a 2012 sand nourishment. Formation of year-round cobble piles on these seasonally sandy beaches may result from chronically reduced sand input owing to anthropogenic controls on river flooding and coastal cliff erosion (e.g. dams and seawalls).

Global distribution of coastal cliffs

AbstractPrevious studies have estimated that coastal cliffs exist on about 80% of the global shoreline, but have not been validated on a global scale. This study uses two approaches to capture information on the worldwide existence and erosion of coastal cliffs: a detailed literature survey and imagery search, and a GIS‐based global mapping analysis. The literature and imagery review show coastal cliffs exist in 93% of the combined recognized independent coastal states and non‐independent coastal regions worldwide (total of 213 geographic units). Additionally, cliff retreat rates have been quantified in at least one location within 33% of independent coastal states and 15% of non‐independent regions. The GIS‐based mapping used the near‐global Shuttle Radar Topography Mission 3 arc second digital elevation model and Arctic Coastal Dynamics Database to obtain near‐global backshore coastal elevations at 1 km alongshore intervals comprising about 1,340,000 locations (81% of the world vector shoreline). Backshore coastal elevations were compared with the mapped distribution of European coastal cliffs to produce a model training set, and this relationship was extended globally to map the likelihood of coastal cliff locations. About 21% of the transects (17% of the world vector shoreline) were identified as mangroves and eliminated as potential cliff locations. The results were combined with estimates of cliff percentages for Greenland and Antarctica from the literature, extending the global coverage to estimate cliff occurrence across 89% of the world vector shoreline. The results suggest coastal cliffs likely exist on about 52% of the global shoreline. © 2018 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.

Morphodynamics of beach-cliff systems in the Santa Barbara littoral cell

A better understanding of the main factors and mechanisms that shape the long-term cliff morphology is essential for effective responses to future coastal cliff erosion threats and occurrences. In this study, the interactions among sea cliff morphology, beach morphology, and coastal hydrodynamics were investigated for eight coastal sites near Santa Barbara, California. This investigation utilizes Digital Elevation Model data, and historical shoreline and cliff edge survey data. It was found that, for the study sites with similar meteorological characteristics, the cliff slope is negatively correlated with the beach width and height, and the cliff slope is governed by the inundation number, which is the ratio of the effective wave run-up height and beach-cliff junction height. Distinct shoreline erosion or accretion trends were not observed for most of the eight sites. Buffer zones of beach-cliff systems, however, have been widening mainly due to cliff erosion. Among the study sites, the widening of the buffer zone was larger for wider beaches, where cliff slopes were gentler. Our analysis indicated that long-term cliff erosion in Southern California may be estimated by using adequate wave-induced cliff erosion models.

Threshold Values of Extreme Hydrometeorological Events on the Polish Baltic Coast

The main aim of this study is to determine the threshold values for extreme sea and weather events on the Polish Baltic coast. The study is based on daily hydrometeorological data on the sea level; air temperature and atmospheric precipitation collected between 1965–2014 from six coastal sites (Świnoujście; Kołobrzeg, Ustka, Łeba, Hel, and Gdynia/Gdańsk). Threshold values for the occurrence of extreme events (with a probability of 10% and 95%, and a return rate of once every 10 years) and exceptionally extreme events (with a probability of 1% and 99%, and a return rate of once every 100 years) were determined using probability distribution and quantile analysis. Hydrometeorological absolute extremes were also determined. The methodology used to determine these extreme events and the time-space analysis of hydrometeorological extremes reveal significant geohazards for the functioning of the Baltic coastal zone, including the erosion of coastal dunes and cliffs and the destruction of technical infrastructure.

The role of beach morphology on coastal cliff erosion under extreme waves

AbstractErosion of hard‐rock coastal cliffs is understood to be caused by a combination of both marine and sub‐aerial processes. Beach morphology, tidal elevation and significant wave heights, especially under extreme storm conditions, can lead to variability in wave energy flux to the cliff‐toe. Wave and water level measurements in the nearshore under energetic conditions are difficult to obtain and in situ observations are rare. Here we use monthly cliff‐face volume changes detected using terrestrial laser scanning alongside beach morphological changes and modelled nearshore hydrodynamics to examine how exposed cliffs respond to changes in extreme wave conditions and beach morphology. The measurements cover the North Atlantic storms of 2013 to 2014 and consider two exposed stretches of coastline (Porthleven and Godrevy, UK) with contrasting beach morphology fronting the cliffs; a flat dissipative sandy beach at Godrevy and a steep reflective gravel beach at Porthleven. Beach slope and the elevation of the beach–cliff junction were found to influence the frequency of cliff inundation and the power of wave–cliff impacts. Numerical modelling (XBeach‐G) showed that under highly energetic wave conditions, i.e. those that occurred in the North Atlantic during winter 2013–2014, with Hs = 5.5 m (dissipative site) and 8 m (reflective site), the combination of greater wave height and steeper beach at the reflective site led to amplified wave run‐up, subjecting these cliffs to waves over four times as powerful as those impacting the cliffs at the dissipative site (39 kWm‐1 compared with 9 kWm‐1). This study highlighted the sensitivity of cliff erosion to extreme wave conditions, where the majority (over 90% of the annual value) of cliff‐face erosion ensued during the winter. The significance of these short‐term erosion rates in the context of long‐term retreat illustrates the importance of incorporating short‐term beach and wave dynamics into geomorphological studies of coastal cliff change. © 2017 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.

Decadal-scale coastal cliff retreat in southern and central California

Airborne LiDAR data collected in 1998 and 2009–2010 were used to measure coastal cliff erosion and retreat between the Mexico/California border and Bodega Head, California. Cliff erosion was detected along 44% of the 595km of shoreline evaluated, while the remaining cliffs were relatively stable. The mean cliff top retreat rate was 0.12m/yr, while mean retreat averaged over the entire cliff face was 0.04m/yr. The maximum cliff top and face retreat rates were 4.2 and 3.8m/yr, respectively. Historical (~1930s to 1998) and recent retreat rates were significantly inversely correlated for areas with large historical or recent cliff retreat, such that locations with elevated historical retreat had low levels of recent retreat and locations with elevated recent retreat were preceded by low rates of historical retreat. The strength of this inverse correlation increased with cliff change magnitudes up to r2 of 0.91 for cliff top retreat rates >2.9m/yr. Mean recent retreat rates were 52-83% lower than mean historical retreat rates. Although beaches can protect cliffs against wave-driven erosion, cliffs fronted by beaches retreated 49% more than cliffs without beaches. On average, unarmored cliff faces retreated 0.05m/yr between 1998 and 2009–2010, about three times faster than artificially armored cliffs. Alongshore metrics of wave-cliff impact, precipitation, and cliff hardness were generally not well correlated with recent cliff changes. A cliff hazard metric is used to detect cliff steepening and areas prone to future cliff top failures.

Morphological Expressions of Coastal Cliff Erosion Processes in San Diego County

ABSTRACT Johnstone, E.; Raymond, J.; Olsen, M.J., and Driscoll, N., 2016. Morphological expressions of coastal cliff erosion processes in San Diego County. In: Brock, J.C.; Gesch, D.B.; Parrish, C.E.; Rogers, J.N., and Wright, C.W. (eds.), Advances in Topobathymetric Mapping, Models, and Applications. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 76, pp. 174–184. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. High-resolution, Terrestrial Laser Scanning (TLS) data have been acquired seasonally since 2006 to define the style and magnitude of cliff erosion along the southern 20 km of coastline within the Oceanside Littoral Cell (OLC). In particular, twelve sites with cliff collapses were mapped repeatedly to examine how these collapses propagate along the cliffs and to identify feedback mechanisms between the liberated material and subsequent cliff failures. Grain size analyses of the failed material (retention cutoff) were performed to estimate the contribution to the beach sand inventory. Despite a relatively ...