Elite Rock Climbers Research Articles

Mental health problems, sleep quality and overuse injuries in advanced Swedish rock-climbers – the CLIMB study

ObjectivesTo examine the prevalence of mental health problems (depression, anxiety, and stress), sleep quality, and disability due to overuse injuries in advanced and elite rock-climbers. The rock-climbers were compared to a group of non-climbing controls.MethodsA self-selected sample of advanced and elite Swedish rock-climbing athletes was recruited through the Swedish Rock-climbing Federation, local rock-climbing gyms and through social media. A control group, matched in size was recruited. Participants in the control group answered an online survey of validated questionnaires, examining symptoms of stress, anxiety, depression, sleep quality. The climbing participants answered the same survey as the non-climbing controls but with additional questions regarding musculoskeletal problems and disabilities related to these. Outcome measures used were the Depression Anxiety Stress Scale, Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index and The Oslo Sports Trauma Research Center Overuse Injury Questionnaire.ResultsA total of 183 participants were included in the rock-climbing group, and 180 participants in the control group. In the rock-climbing group the mean age (SD) was 28.2 (8.3) years among women and 30.5 (9.6) years in men. The mean BMI of women was 21.2 (2.2) and 22.8 (2.1) in men. A total of 30.6% of the rock-climbing group (26.7% of men, 35.9% of women) reported at least moderate levels of symptoms of depression and 23.1% (17.2% men, 30.8% women) at least moderate levels of symptoms of anxiety. A total of 48.4% of rock-climbers (39.1% men, and 61.6% women) reported at least moderate levels of symptoms of stress. Among the rock-climbers, 45.0% reported having poor sleep quality. There were no statistical significant differences (p = 0.052–0.96) in mental health problems or sleeping problems between the rock-climbers and the controls. Among rock-climbers, reports of one-week prevalence of injury related problems was: Finger and hand (49.5%), Shoulder (35.2%), Knee (29.1%), Lumbar back (26.4%), Arm (25.3%), Thoracic back and neck (17.0%), and Foot and lower leg (12.1%).ConclusionThe overall results indicate high levels of symptoms of mental health problems and poor sleep quality in both rock-climbers and controls. Although no significant differences between the climbing group and the control group was displayed, symptoms that warrant clinical attention is high. Overuse injuries were commonly reported among the rock-climbers in all examined injury locations. Previous studies reporting mental health problems to be more prevalent among athletes were contradicted in this study. The results display the need for a broader perspective regarding climbers general health and the need to provide structured care and adequate support in order to come to terms with these concerns.

Endurance Monitoring Method for Rock Climbers Based on Multisensor FDA Model

The quality of sports performance mainly depends on the scientific degree of sports training. The best monitoring and control of the whole process of sports training is an important guarantee for improving the scientific degree of training. For the scientific monitoring of sports training process, many scholars have carried out research from many aspects. Current research still finds that athletes still have many problems with the protection of their own physical endurance. (1) The monitoring of the sports training process by coaches and athletes is still mainly spontaneous. The monitoring of athletes has not yet formed a system. (2) At present, the monitoring of athletes is mainly carried out from a single discipline or a certain field, and there is no systematic monitoring system. (3) There are many common problems in the monitoring items of the training process in the existing research. Existing studies have relatively little content on specific characteristics. In this paper, a dynamic monitoring system for the training process of elite rock climbers is established, and a training operation mode for rock climbers is established. (1) This paper sorts out the various subsystems of the training system. The monitoring system of sports training process mainly includes target system, personnel organization system, and software and hardware system. In addition, the sports training system proposed in this paper also includes monitoring content system, implementation system, and evaluation system. The sports training process monitoring system also includes a subsystem for monitoring the development of athletic ability of athletes. We take on the training load condition monitoring subsystem; daily physical function state and psychological state monitoring subsystem; and physical and mental health monitoring subsystem. (2) In addition, this paper establishes an operation mode dominated by “scientific research leaders.” The model includes three parts: “Administrative Managers, Scientific Research Leaders, and Coaches.” (3) Finally, this paper establishes five basic guiding ideologies for the evaluation of training process monitoring results. This paper establishes three reference standards for the evaluation of monitoring indicators.

Dietary Intakes and the Risk of Low Energy Availability in Male and Female Advanced and Elite Rock Climbers.

Monedero, J, Duff, C, and Egan, B. Dietary intakes and the risk of low energy availability in male and female advanced and elite rock climbers. J Strength Cond Res 37(3): e8-e15, 2023-There is a culture among rock climbers of striving to maintain low body mass and percentage body fat to enhance performance. Diet practices based on this belief might lead to increased risk of low energy availability (LEA) or eating disorders (EDs). Twenty-five advanced or elite rock climbers (male, n = 14; female, n = 11) had body composition measured, completed 4-day food intake and physical activity diaries while wearing an accelerometer and heart rate monitor, and completed the Eating Attitudes Test (EAT)-26 and the Low Energy Availability in Females Questionnaire (LEAF-Q; n = 11 female subjects only). EAT-26 scores of 3.5 (1.8, 7.0) [median (IQR)] and 9.3 ± 6.4 (mean ± SD ) for male and female subjects, respectively, indicated low risk of ED in this cohort, but 4 female subjects were at high risk of LEA according to LEAF-Q scores. Suboptimal (<45 kcal·kg·FFM -1 ·d -1 ) and LEA (<30 kcal·kg·FFM -1 ·d -1 ) were evident in 88 and 28%, respectively, of climbers. However, only the female climbers had energy intakes (1775 ± 351 kcal·d -1 ) significantly lower than their calculated energy requirements (2056 ± 254 kcal·d -1 ; p = 0.006). In all subjects, carbohydrate intakes were lower (male subjects: 3.8 ± 1.2 g·kg -1 ·d -1 , p = 0.002; female subjects: 3.4 ± 0.7 g·kg -1 ·d -1 , p < 0.001), and fat intakes were higher (male subjects: 1.6 ± 0.5 g·kg -1 ·d -1 , p < 0.001; female subjects: 1.4 ± 0.4 g·kg -1 ·day -1 , p < 0.001) than current sports nutrition recommendations, and inadequate intakes of calcium, magnesium, and vitamin D were observed. Female subjects specifically had lower than recommended intakes of protein and iron. These results show that advanced and elite rock climbers have a high prevalence of LEA and have a risk of having nutritional deficiencies as result of their diet.

Which is the most reliable edge depth to measure maximum hanging time in sport climbers?

BackgroundThe ability to generate high levels of force with the finger flexor muscles and sustain it for the maximum time was reported as a climbing performance factor. This study aimed to answer the question of which is the most reliable edge depth to measure maximum hanging time in non-elite and elite rock climbers: 6, 8, 10, 12 or 14 mm. MethodsThirty-six climbers (10 female, 26 male; 6b-8c redpoint level) were assessed twice, one week apart. ResultsSystematic bias (95 % limits of agreements) was -1.84 (6.31) for HT6, -0.26 (8.83) for HT8, -1.30 (8.72) for HT10, -4.37 (9.57) for HT12, and -2.94 (9.53) for HT14 at non-elite group (all P values > 0.05 but HT12 and HT14). Among elite group, -1.38 (7.58), 0.68 (12.09), -2.20 (13.35), -0.49 (9.80) and 0.73 (10.44) was found (all P > 0.05) for HT6, HT8, HT10, HT12 and HT14, respectively. No patterns of heteroscedasticity were observed for any of the trials for non-elite and elite climbers. SignificanceAmong all edge depths analysed, 8 mm seemed to be the most accurate edge to evaluate hanging time. Alternatively, a 10 mm hold depth could be recommended for climbers from 6b to 7c, and 12 mm for climbers from 7c+ to 8c.

Effect of 4 weeks of rock climbing with and without blood flow restriction, on Serum Levels of CRP, LDH and CK in elite rock climbers

هدف: تمرینات ورزشی با محدودیت ‌جریان‌ خون با تغییر ایمنی‌شناختی و همچنین تغییر در شاخص‌های التهابی و آسیب عضلانی همراه است، ازاین‌رو هدف از مطالعۀ حاضر، بررسی تأثیر 4 هفته سنگ‌نوردی با و بدون محدودیت جریان خون بر میزان شاخص‌های LDH، CK و CRP ناشی از فعالیت ورزشی در سنگ‌نوردان نخبه بود.روش‌ها: 12 زن و 12مرد سنگ‌نورد با سابقۀ حداقل 4 سال و دامنۀ سنی 32/2±54/23 تا 38/3±18/27 سال و درصد چربی 12/1±22/8 تا 18/1±19/14 درصد به‌صورت هدفمند از بین سنگ‌نوردان ‌نخبه انتخاب شدند و با تخصیص تصادفی در یکی از دو گروه تمرین با محدودیت جریان خون و تمرین بدون محدودیت جریان خون قرار گرفتند. برنامۀ تمرین به مدت 4 هفته انجام گرفت (با شدت 60 - 80 درصد درجۀ سختی مسیر به مدت 90 دقیقه و 3 جلسه در هفته). نمونۀ خونی در دو مرحله (پیش‌آزمون و پس‌آزمون) در وضعیت نشسته و در حال استراحت به‌منظور تعیین مقدار لاکتات ‌دهیدروژناز، کراتین‌کیناز، لاکتات ‌خون و پروتئین واکنشگر C دریافت شد. برای تجزیه‌وتحلیل داده‌ها از آزمون ‌تی مستقل برای مقایسۀ میانگین‌ها و آزمون‌کولموگروف ‌اسمیرنوف برای بررسی همگنی دو گروه در سطح معنا‌داری 05/0 α ≤ استفاده شد.نتایج: نتایج نشان داد شاخص آسیب عضلانی LDH، CK و شاخص التهابی CRP در پاسخ به تمرین سنگ‌نوردی با و بدون محدودیت جریان خون بین دو گروه تفاوت معنا‌داری نداشت ( 05/0<p).نتیجه‌گیری: با توجه به نتایج این پژوهش سنگ‌نوردی با محدودیت جریان خون نسبت به بدون محدودیت جریان خون سبب افزایش شاخص‌های التهابی و آسیب عضلانی نمی‌شود، احتمالاٌ این شیوۀ تمرینات از منظر فشار مکانیکی و متابولیکی ناشی از فعالیت ورزشی برای سنگ‌نوردان ایمن است.

New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during repeated intermittent forearm muscle contractions in advanced and elite rock climbers

Anthocyanin-rich New Zealand blackcurrant (NZBC) may improve forearm muscle oxygenation and enhance performance in high-level rock climbers. As such, using a double-blind, randomised, cross-over design study, twelve participants performed an oxidative capacity assessment, and two successive exhaustive exercise trials (submaximal forearm muscle contractions at 60% of their maximal volitional contraction). Each visit was conducted following 7-days intake of 600 mg·day−1 NZBC extract or placebo. Oxidative capacity was estimated by calculating the oxygen half time recovery using near infrared spectroscopy. Time to exhaustion (s), impulse (kg·s), and minimum tissue saturation index (min-TSI %) were assessed during both the exercise trials. Muscle oxidative capacity was greater with NZBC (mean difference [MD] = 5.3 s, 95% confidence intervals [95% CI] = 0.4–10.2 s; p = 0.036; Cohen’s d = 0.94). During the exercise trials, there was an interaction for min-TSI % (time x condition, p = 0.046; = 0.372), which indicated a greater level of oxygen extraction during trial two with NZBC extract (MD = 9%, 95% CI = 2-15%) compared to the placebo (MD = 2%, 95% CI = 1–7%). There was a decrease in time to exhaustion (p <0.001, = 0.693) and impulse (p = 0.001, = 0.672) in exercise trial two, with no effect of NZBC extract. In high-level rock climbers 7-days NZBC extract improves forearm muscle oxygenation with no effect on isolated forearm muscle performance.

Prevalence of Disordered Eating Among International Sport Lead Rock Climbers.

Disordered eating (DE) is characterized as a range of irregular eating patterns or behaviors, which may lead to pathological eating or a clinical eating disorder diagnosis. DE patterns are associated with a variety of negative health outcomes. The prevalence of DE is highest in female athletes who participate in aesthetic or weight dependent sports. Elite rock climbers tend to be strong, small and lean, but the prevalence of DE in rock climbers is unknown. The purpose of the present study was to assess DE prevalence in a large group of international rock climbers and to explore the relationship between sport rock climbing ability and DE. A web-based survey assessed both DE (Eating Attitudes Test-26) and climbing ability based on the International Rock Climbing Research Association's position statement on comparative grading scales. The survey was distributed to international climbing communities; 810 individuals attempted the survey; 604 completed all questions; 498 identified as sport lead climbers. The majority of sport lead climbers were lower grade/intermediate (57.8%), compared to advanced (30.7%) and elite/higher elite (11.4%), and male (76.9%). Forty-three sport lead climbers reported a score of 20 or above on the EAT-26 indicating an 8.6% prevalence of DE in this sample. Male climbers had a DE prevalence of 6.3% (24 of 383) and female climbers more than doubled that with 16.5% (19 of 115). Chi-square analysis revealed that DE was associated with climbing ability level [χ2 (2, n = 498, 8.076, p = 0.02)], and when analyzed by sex, only the female climbers had a significant relationship of DE with climbing ability [χ2 (2, n = 115, 15.640, p = 0.00)]. These findings suggest sport lead rock climbers are not immune to DE and that the risk is elevated in female climbers, particularly at the elite/high elite climbing ability level. Our research indicates further investigations are warranted to determine if and how disordered eating behaviors affect health and performance of adult rock climbers.

The public loneliness of endurance athletes: Creating ambient affiliation through involvement strategies on Twitter

The accessibility and interactivity of Twitter both facilitate athlete-fan interaction and contribute to the time/space compression between sporting events and communication about them. While numerous studies investigate real-time participatory engagement of fans on Twitter, athletes’ use of Twitter during competition remains underexplored. Using a case study approach, this study brings together computer-mediated discourse analysis and prior work on involvement in discourse to examine tweets posted during competitive events by two endurance athletes (an experienced amateur marathon runner and an elite rock climber). Specifically, it explores how athletes mobilize various linguistic strategies to create relations of connectedness, or ambient affiliation (Zappavigna, 2011), with their respective audiences who are distanced spatially and often temporally. It also demonstrates how the affordances and limitations of technology, and the constraints of the athletic events themselves, shape ambient involvement. In this way, this work adds to our understanding of how ambient affiliation is constructed in a particular context – a competitive athletic event of an endurance athlete practicing a solitary sport – while also shedding light on how involvement is created and maintained with a largely unknown online audience.

Changes in blood lactate and muscle activation in elite rock climbers during a 15-m speed climb.

The purpose of this study was to investigate the changes in blood lactate concentration (BL) and muscle activity patterns during a 15-m speed climbing competition that consisted of ten consecutive climbing actions on a standardized artificial wall in trained rock climbers. Twelve trained rock climbers participated in this study. Surface electromyography (sEMG) and video signals were synchronized and recorded during climbing. The blood lactate was also tested 3min after completing the climb. The average climbing time was 8.1 ± 2.1s for the 15-m speed climb across all subjects, accompanied by a BL of 7.6 ± 1.9mmol/L. The climbing speed and power firstly increased and then slightly decreased relative to peak value during the 15-m speed climbing. The results showed there was a positive correlation between the BL and the climbing time, r = 0.59, P = 0.043. The sEMG showed the flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS) electric activity was the highest, followed by the biceps brachii (BB) and latissimus dorsi. The instantaneous median frequency of sEMG of FDS and BB significantly decreased during the 15-m speed climbing. All the participants showed the higher sEMG RMS (%) in the terminal phase than that in the initial phase, especially with a greater increase in the left upper limbs. However, the lower limbs muscles presented no significant changes in the sEMG amplitude during climbing. The FDS and BB play an important role in completing the 15-m speed climbing. The median frequency of arm EMG decreased more than that of legs, suggesting more fatigue. The blood lactate concentration increases in the current study suggest that a certain amount of glycolysis supplies energy in completing 15-m speed rock climbing. Based on the current data, it is suggested that muscular endurance of FDS and BB muscles in upper limbs should be improved for our climbers in this study.

Physical therapy management of an elite rock climber with subacromial impingement syndrome (SIS)

Abstract Background: The purpose of this case report is to describe a conservative physical therapy plan that was successful in the treatment of a functional classification of subacromial impingement syndrome (SIS). SIS

Oxygen recovery kinetics in the forearm flexors of multiple ability groups of rock climbers.

The purpose of this study was to determine muscle tissue oxidative capacity and recovery in intermediate, advanced, and elite rock climbers. Forty-four male participants performed (a) sustained and (b) intermittent contractions at 40% of maximal volitional contraction (MVC) on a sport-specific fingerboard until volitional fatigue. Near-infrared spectroscopy was used to assess muscle tissue oxygenation during both the exercise and the 5-minutes passive recovery period, in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) and flexor carpi radialis (FCR). During the sustained contraction only, muscle tissue deoxygenation (O2 debt) in the FDP and FCR was significantly greater in elite climbers compared with the control, intermediate, and advanced groups (FDP: 32 vs. 15, 19, 22%; FCR: 19 vs. 11, 8, 15%, respectively). However, elite climbers had a significantly quicker time to half recovery (T1/2) than the control and intermediate groups in the FDP (8 vs. 95 and 47 seconds, respectively) and the FCR (7 vs. 30 and 97 seconds, respectively) because the O2% recovered per second being significantly greater (FDP: 4.2 vs. 0.7 and 0.3; FCR: 4.8 vs. 0.1 and 0.2, respectively). Furthermore, during the intermittent contraction, T1/2 in elite climbers was significantly quicker compared with the control and intermediate groups in the FDP (8 vs. 93 and 83 seconds, respectively) and FCR (16 vs. 76 and 50 seconds, respectively). Consequently, lower-level climbers should focus training on specific intermittent fatigue protocols. Competition or elite climbers should make use of appropriate rests on route to aid recovery and increase the chances of reaching the next hold.

A sport-specific upper-body ergometer test for evaluating submaximal and maximal parameters in elite rock climbers.

Traditional treadmill or bicycle ergometry neglects the upper-body musculature that predominantly limits or terminates rock-climbing performance (ie, the inability to continually pull up one's body mass or "hang on"). To develop an incremental maximal upper-body ergometer test (UBT) to evaluate climbers' aerobic fitness and sport-specific work capacity and to compare these results with a traditional treadmill protocol. Eleven elite sport climbers (best redpoint grade Fr.8b) performed a UBT on a vertically mounted rowing ergometer and, on a separate occasion, performed a maximal incremental treadmill test (TMT). Cardiorespiratory parameters were measured continuously. Lactate (La) samples were collected. Peak oxygen consumption (VO2peak) and heart rate in UBT and TMT were 34.1 ± 4.1 vs 58.3 ± 2.6 mL · min-1 · kg-1 and 185 ± 8 vs 197 ± 8 beats/min, respectively, and both variables were of significantly lower magnitude during UBT (P < .001). End-of-test La levels for UBT (11.9 ± 1.7 mmol/L) and TMT (12.3 ± 2.5 mmol/L) were similar (P = .554). Treadmill VO2peak was not correlated with either upper-body (UB) VO2peak (P = .854) or redpoint and on-sight climbing grade ability (P > .05). UB VO2peak and peak power output per kg body mass were both strongly correlated (P < .05) with climbing grade ability. The highest correlation coefficient was calculated between current on-sight grade and UB VO2peak (r = .85, P = .001). UBT aerobic- and work-capacity results were strongly correlated to climbing-performance variables and reflected sport-specific fatigue, and TMT results were not. UBT is preferred to TMT to test and monitor dedicated and elite rock climbers' training status.

Force control during fatiguing contractions in elite rock climbers

The differences between rock climbers and controls in finger flexor (FF) muscles’ motor control were determined in 11 climbers and 10 sedentary participants. Maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) was assessed and after 5 min of rest an isometric contraction at 80% MVC was performed until exhaustion. During contraction, the force signal was recorded, from which the variation coefficient (VC) was then calculated as an index of force control accuracy. Climbers showed significantly higher MVC (+46%, p<0.05) and MVC per unit of muscle-plus-bone area (MVC/MBA; +13%, p<0.05). Endurance time at 80% MVC was 43% longer in climbers than in controls (33±4 vs. 23±5 s, respectively; p<0.05). VC throughout the first 20 s of contraction was significantly lower in climbers than in controls (p<0.05). Maximum force results and force signal analysis during constant-load contraction at 80% MVC revealed significant differences in muscle characteristics and motor control between the two groups. In particular, climbers showed stronger and more efficient FF muscles, which were capable of sustaining the requested effort (80% MVC up to exhaustion) for a longer period of time and with a steadier force output. These results suggest a shift of climbers’ muscles toward faster and more resistant motor units due to years of high-intensity isometric contractions typical of this physical activity.

Electrical and mechanical response of finger flexor muscles during voluntary isometric contractions in elite rock-climbers

To determine the differences between rock-climbers and controls in finger flexor (FF) motor units (MUs) features and activation strategy, eleven climbers and ten controls volunteered for the study. After maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) assessment, five levels of isometric contractions at 20, 40, 60, 80 and 100% MVC were performed. During contractions, electromyogram (EMG) and mechanomyogram (MMG) were recorded, from which the root mean square (RMS) and mean frequency (MF) were calculated. Climbers showed significantly higher MVC. EMG RMS was statistically higher in climbers than in controls from 60 to 100% MVC. In climbers MMG RMS increased up to 80% MVC, whereas in controls it increased only up to 60% MVC. MMG MF was higher in climbers than in controls from 60 to 100% MVC (P < 0.05). EMG-MMG combined analysis revealed significant differences in MU activation strategy between the two groups. The results are compatible with a shift of climbers' muscles toward faster MUs.

Re: Scapholunate interosseous ligament rupture in an elite rock climber

Re: Scapholunate interosseous ligament rupture in an elite rock climber

Effect of Exercise, Body Composition, and Nutritional Intake on Bone Parameters in Male Elite Rock Climbers

A low body mass index is considered essential for high performance in rock climbing; however its effect on bone may be negative. In this study we compared the BMD of competitive male rock climbers (n = 20) and age- and BMI-matched non-training controls (n = 11). Subjects with any medication or illness affecting bone metabolism or a family history of osteoporosis were not included in the analysis. Total body BMD was measured by dual-energy X-ray absorptiometry. Quantitative computed tomographic scans were made from the femoral neck and the lumbar spine. Dietary intake was assessed by a 5-day protocol. BMD of the TB-scan was significantly higher in the climbers group for all sub-regions except the skull (p = 0.191) and the lower extremities (p = 0.079). Trabecular and cortical BMD of the LS were significantly higher (p = 0.036 and p = 0.004) in the climbers. The same was true for total (p = 0.005) and cortical (p = 0.002) BMD of the FN. Trabecular BMD (p = 0.054), CSA (p < 0.343) and cortical thickness (p = 0.065) of the FN was non-significantly higher for the climbers. Our study indicates that the effect of climbing on bone parameters PER SE is not detrimental in elite male athletes. Contrarily climbers demonstrated significantly higher BMD values at all loaded regions without "steal effects" at skeletal sites with low mechanical impact. Although we determined a moderately negative effect of low BMI on BMD we could not decide whether a low BMI value should be used as an exclusion criterion in high level climbing competitions as practized by the Austrian Sportclimbing Organization.

Differences in radius strength between male elite rock climbers and runners determined by FE analysis of bone in-vivo

Differences in radius strength between male elite rock climbers and runners determined by FE analysis of bone in-vivo

Effect of simulated rock climbing finger postures on force sharing among the fingers

Objective. To study the forces applied by each finger in different joint postures simulating rock climbing gripping postures. Design. Subjects in sitting posture applied fingertip forces perpendicular to horizontal force sensors in three different finger postures. Background. Data provided by the literature indicate that middle and ring finger are commonly injured. However, no quantitative assessment of the forces applied by each finger related to the joint postures has been made. Methods. Six elite rock climbers performed finger flexion in a single-finger task and a four-finger task. The tests were conducted in an extended posture, a curved posture (the joints belonging to the finger were flexed) and an intermediate posture (the joints were flexed, except the distal one which was fully extended). Each fingertip force was expressed in absolute value and in percentage of the maximal force capacity of the finger. Results. The greater force was applied by the middle finger (20.8 N), whatever the posture. The relative involvement amounted to 105% for the ring finger in the curved posture. Conclusions. The great force applied by the middle finger and the great relative involvement of the ring finger in the curved posture seem to be the main factors of injuries of these fingers. Relevance The analysis of force sharing among the fingers during different joint postures mimicking rock climbing is essential to a better understanding of finger injuries.

MACRONUTRIENT INTAKE AND EATING HABITS IN ELITE ROCK CLIMBERS

Low body fat content and low body weight are believed to enhance performance in competitive rock climbing. There are some anecdotal reports about restrictive eating habits and eating disorders in these athletes. Because only little data exists about their nutrient intake and eating habits, these parameters were analyzed in 20 elite rock climbers (age = 26 ± 4y, BMI = 20.9 ± 1.1, level UIAA = 10–11) by recording food intake over 7 days (weighing method). Energy intake ranged from 1595–4084 kcal/d (mean 2652 ± 486 kcal/d). In 40% of the climbers energy intake was below 2500 kcal despite a training volume of more than 2 hrs/d. The mean contribution of protein:fat:CHO:alcohol to energy intake was 15:27:55:3% respectively. Two climbers had an extremely low fat intake of 6.8 and 16.9%. Athletes with higher performance (according to their UIAA level) had a lower BMI and lower energy and fat intake (r = −0.47, −0.62 and −0.49, p < 0.05). The main energy and fat sources were cereals, dairy products and sweets. Fish, meat and oils only marginally contributed to energy (5.0%) and fat intake (12.1%) as well as the alarmingly low intake of potatoes and vegetables (1.8% of total energy intake). Most of the climbers show eating habits with breakfast followed by many hours without a regular meal until dinner late in the evening after training. Because of the low quantitiy and the unbalanced quality of their food choises nearly 50% of the athletes failed to meet the recommendations for top level sports activities.

Overuse injuries in the elite rock climber

Closed rupture of the flexor tendon sheath has been known to occur in the elite rock climbing population. However, only one study has investigated the prevalence of this entity. To examine an elite climbing group in this country for the prevalence of pulley rupture and report on other commonly occurring injuries in the hand and elbow. 42 elite rock climbers competing at the U.S. national championships were evaluated by an injury survey and concentrated examination of the hand and elbow. Manual testing for clinical bowstringing was done for each finger, by the same examiner. 11 subjects (26%) had evidence of flexor pulley rupture or attenuation, as manifested by clinical bowstringing. Injury to the PIP collateral ligament had occurred in 17 subjects (40%). Other commonly occurring injury syndromes are described. Our results and others suggest that closed traumatic pulley rupture occurs with significant frequency in this population. In addition, all subjects with this injury continued to climb at a high standard and reported no functional disability.