Abstract

Low body fat content and low body weight are believed to enhance performance in competitive rock climbing. There are some anecdotal reports about restrictive eating habits and eating disorders in these athletes. Because only little data exists about their nutrient intake and eating habits, these parameters were analyzed in 20 elite rock climbers (age = 26 ± 4y, BMI = 20.9 ± 1.1, level UIAA = 10–11) by recording food intake over 7 days (weighing method). Energy intake ranged from 1595–4084 kcal/d (mean 2652 ± 486 kcal/d). In 40% of the climbers energy intake was below 2500 kcal despite a training volume of more than 2 hrs/d. The mean contribution of protein:fat:CHO:alcohol to energy intake was 15:27:55:3% respectively. Two climbers had an extremely low fat intake of 6.8 and 16.9%. Athletes with higher performance (according to their UIAA level) had a lower BMI and lower energy and fat intake (r = −0.47, −0.62 and −0.49, p < 0.05). The main energy and fat sources were cereals, dairy products and sweets. Fish, meat and oils only marginally contributed to energy (5.0%) and fat intake (12.1%) as well as the alarmingly low intake of potatoes and vegetables (1.8% of total energy intake). Most of the climbers show eating habits with breakfast followed by many hours without a regular meal until dinner late in the evening after training. Because of the low quantitiy and the unbalanced quality of their food choises nearly 50% of the athletes failed to meet the recommendations for top level sports activities.

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