Abstract

Disordered eating (DE) is characterized as a range of irregular eating patterns or behaviors, which may lead to pathological eating or a clinical eating disorder diagnosis. DE patterns are associated with a variety of negative health outcomes. The prevalence of DE is highest in female athletes who participate in aesthetic or weight dependent sports. Elite rock climbers tend to be strong, small and lean, but the prevalence of DE in rock climbers is unknown. The purpose of the present study was to assess DE prevalence in a large group of international rock climbers and to explore the relationship between sport rock climbing ability and DE. A web-based survey assessed both DE (Eating Attitudes Test-26) and climbing ability based on the International Rock Climbing Research Association's position statement on comparative grading scales. The survey was distributed to international climbing communities; 810 individuals attempted the survey; 604 completed all questions; 498 identified as sport lead climbers. The majority of sport lead climbers were lower grade/intermediate (57.8%), compared to advanced (30.7%) and elite/higher elite (11.4%), and male (76.9%). Forty-three sport lead climbers reported a score of 20 or above on the EAT-26 indicating an 8.6% prevalence of DE in this sample. Male climbers had a DE prevalence of 6.3% (24 of 383) and female climbers more than doubled that with 16.5% (19 of 115). Chi-square analysis revealed that DE was associated with climbing ability level [χ2 (2, n = 498, 8.076, p = 0.02)], and when analyzed by sex, only the female climbers had a significant relationship of DE with climbing ability [χ2 (2, n = 115, 15.640, p = 0.00)]. These findings suggest sport lead rock climbers are not immune to DE and that the risk is elevated in female climbers, particularly at the elite/high elite climbing ability level. Our research indicates further investigations are warranted to determine if and how disordered eating behaviors affect health and performance of adult rock climbers.

Highlights

  • IntroductionResearch by Black and Burckes-Miller (1988) postulated that, due to the unique pressures associated with sport participation (e.g., athletic performances, coaches’ expectations, sporting environment, and subculture), athletes may be more prone to engage in disordered eating (DE) and unwise weight management techniques, which may lead to eating disorders (EDs)

  • Research by Black and Burckes-Miller (1988) postulated that, due to the unique pressures associated with sport participation, athletes may be more prone to engage in disordered eating (DE) and unwise weight management techniques, which may lead to eating disorders (EDs)

  • Of the 604 completed surveys, the highest percentage of responders identified themselves as sport lead climbers either as their primary or secondary form of climbing (82%; n = 498) and these participants were included in the present analyses

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Summary

Introduction

Research by Black and Burckes-Miller (1988) postulated that, due to the unique pressures associated with sport participation (e.g., athletic performances, coaches’ expectations, sporting environment, and subculture), athletes may be more prone to engage in disordered eating (DE) and unwise weight management techniques, which may lead to eating disorders (EDs). 15 years later, research by Sundgot-Borgen and Torstveit (2004) provided evidence supporting these hypotheses In their large, well-conducted study among Norwegian elite athletes (n = 1,259) and controls (n = 1,203), they concluded that the prevalence of EDs was higher in elite athletes (13.5%) compared to controls (4.6%). Athletes who competed in technical and ball game sports had a lower incidence of EDs when compared to athletes of the same sex who competed in leanness-dependent and weightdependent sports; incidence was still higher than in the general population. Given these figures and the consequences of DE and EDs on physical and mental health as well as athletic performance (Kärkkäinen et al, 2018), quantifying ED risk in less-studied athletic populations is necessary in order to identify individuals at high risk and implement appropriate prevention and intervention strategies

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