JAPANKA AND OBA-CHAN From Rovinj's post office to the old harbor it is some three hundred paces. You pass a half-dozen cafes. With a slight effort you can make it an even dozen. A shot of Istra Bitter here, a Pelinkovac there, Malvazija, Malvasia, before you know it, it's time for dinner. Yasuko does not take that route, I know. Two boys are chasing each other across the small slab of concrete behind the news kiosk. As she passes, they glance up and, without ceasing to run after each other in circles that now encompass her, begin calling, Japanka, japankal The road curves around the ancient movie house, now locked up, the words Kino and Cine fading on the crumbling facade, a heavy Habsburg rectangle, fifteen feet from the water. On file at City Hall are numerous ambitious and unrealized plans to resurrect it. Its solid stone appearance, like most old houses here, is belied by the bricks showing where the plaster has worn away. This is the only point of land visible between the old harbor and the new, where Austrians, Italians, Germans, and Croats from Zagreb keep their yachts for infrequent weekend sails. Before the 1991 war, many Serbs from Belgrade had yachts here, too. I catch sight of her as she rounds the corner, with the unfortunate floating pizzeria to her left. She must see the old harbor in full view now, a semi-circle of dappled one-, two-, and three-storied struc tures set thirty feet back, enough space for hundreds of small tables and thousands of chairs, a narrow paved road, and a wide walk beside the water. The huge stones are worn smooth, slick. There is no barrier. Walk to the edge and you may fall in, though more like ly you'll hit one of the tiny boats that, tied together and stacked three and four deep, cover the first fifty feet of the water's surface except during the early morning fishing hours. Until a few years ago, Ligio Zanini kept a boat here. Every morning he would collect his nets, exchanging a word or two of rovignese with his compatri ots, and set out down the coast between Saint Catherine's and Red Island, named for the old brickworks. Thanks to his collection of
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