Fabric Drape Research Articles

A Study on the Fabric Drape Evaluation Using a 3D Scanning System Based on Depth Camera with Elevating Device

Abstract Properties of textile fabrics influence the appearance, aesthetics, and performance of garment. Drape and related properties of fabrics affect profoundly the static and dynamic appearance during wearer’s movement. The three dimensional shape of the folded structure often deforms with time or with subtle vibration around the fabric specimen during the drape measurement. Due to the uneven and complex nature of fabrics, the overall shape of the fabric specimen on the drape tester often becomes unstable. There is a need to understand the fundamental mechanisms of how draping may generate pleasing forms. Two drape test methods, conventional Cusick drape test, and in-built drape tester, based on a depth camera, are compared. Fabric specimens including cotton, linen, silk, wool, polyester, and rayon are investigated for the fabric drape and other physical/mechanical parameters. Drape coefficient values of fabric specimens are compared based on the final drape images, together with the intermediate 3D drape images of the specimens during elevation process of the drape tester equipped with a stepper motor system. The correlation coefficient between the data based on the two methods is reasonably high. Another advantage from the depth camera system is that it allows further analysis of three-dimensional information regarding the fabric drape shape, including the shape of nodes or crest and trough. Keywords : fabric, drape, 3D scanning, depth camera, elevating device

Metal Tel Sarımlı Hibrid İplik İçeren Dokuma Kumaşların Dökümlülüğünün Görüntü Analizi Yöntemi ile Ölçülmesi

Metal Tel Sarımlı Hibrid İplik İçeren Dokuma Kumaşların Dökümlülüğünün Görüntü Analizi Yöntemi ile Ölçülmesi

Experimental measurement of wrinkle formation during draping of non-crimp fabric

A rig and image analysis methodology is described to characterise wrinkle formation during draping of non-crimp fabrics. The circular fabric blank is draped over a male hemispherical mould, partly constrained by a circular clamping ring around the periphery of the blank. The three-dimensional shape of the fabric is derived from a shape-from-focus analysis of a stack of photographs of the deformed blank. Wrinkles are identified from the deviation of the shape from a smoothed shape. Wrinkle formation is strongly dependent on the fabric architecture and increases progressively with increased punch displacement. Triaxial fabrics have the highest wrinkle amplitude, unidirectional and 0/90° biaxial fabrics the lowest amplitude. The clamping force reduces the wrinkling for some fabrics but, for the maximum force applied, is not effective at eliminating wrinkling.

Unidirectional Fabric Drape Testing Method

In most cases, fabrics such as curtains, skirts, suit pants and so on are draped under their own gravity parallel to fabric plane while the gravity is perpendicular to fabric plane in traditional drape testing method. As a result, it does not conform to actual situation and the test data is not convincing enough. To overcome this problem, this paper presents a novel method which simulates the real mechanical conditions and ensures the gravity is parallel to the fabric plane. This method applied a low-cost Kinect Sensor device to capture the 3-dimensional (3D) drape profile, thus we obtained the drape degree parameters and aesthetic parameters by 3D reconstruction and image processing and analysis techniques. The experiment was conducted on our self-devised drape-testing instrument by choosing different kinds of weave structure fabrics as our testing samples and the results were compared with those of traditional method and subjective evaluation. Through regression and correlation analysis we found that this novel testing method was significantly correlated with the traditional and subjective evaluation method. We achieved a new, non-contact 3D measurement method for drape testing, namely unidirectional fabric drape testing method. This method is more suitable for evaluating drape behavior because it is more in line with actual mechanical conditions of draped fabrics and has a well consistency with the requirements of visual and aesthetic style of fabrics.

Investigation of tactile comfort properties of the fabrics treated with microcapsules containing phase change materials (PCMs microcapsules)

In this study, it was focused on the investigation of comfort-related properties of the fabrics treated with microcapsules containing phase change materials (PCMs microcapsules). There are limited findings about the effect of prepared PCM microcapsules on fabric properties related with the tactile comfort. In this work, we applied our produced microcapsules to the cotton fabrics and researched these fabrics’ tactile comfort-related properties such as bending rigidity, drape, fabric–fabric friction, and tenacity. One of the outstanding properties of our microcapsules is reactive carboxylic acid groups on their wall. They have the ability to bind to the fabrics in terms of their reactive chemical groups. Microcapsules on the fabrics can be durable to the effects of the rubbing and repeated washings. The fabric test results indicated that air permeability, bending rigidity, tensile strength decrease with the microcapsule treatment, whereas the fabric drape and coefficient of friction of the fabrics increase depending on the amount of microcapsules added on the fabric.

패션 소재 트렌드 분석 및 컬렉션별 수용에 관한 연구 - 2007년 S/S부터 2010년 S/S 국내외 컬렉션을 중심으로 -

In modern fashion fabrics became an important element that leads the current of fashion beyond materials. Also, it has a creative role that reflects emotional and visual aspects, and it is considered as a mega trend that will lead the <TEX>$21^{st}$</TEX> century fashion industry. The value of fashion products is affected not only by the style and design but also the sensuous properties like color, pattern, texture, and drape of fabrics. Therefore, in this study, characteristics of fabric trend between 2007 S/S and 2010 S/S will be analyzed focused on Premiere Vision, which influenced many Korean fashion trend information companies, while looking into the fabric trends shown in the world's top four collections-Paris, Milan, London, and New York-and Seoul collection, and comparing and analyzing the acceptance level of those. Fashion fabric is an important part in fashion design and change with social environment and value, its considered that the role and importance of subject matters increases in changing fashion design toward globalization by meeting various personality which is diversified more and more. It is to provide specific and practical data to be used for the Korean fashion industry, which can be used as useful information for future fabric researchers and people in the fashion industry for integrated study of fashion design and fashion fabric.

1D and 2D Shape Descriptors Applied in Fabric Drape Computer Simulation

Department of Textiles, Graphic Arts and Design, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, University of Ljubljana, Snežniska 5, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia, E-mail: helena.gabrijelcic@ntf.uni-lj.si ales.hladnik@ntf.uni-lj.si Abstract Fabric drape simulations accomplished by computer graphics software can provide the basis for effective communication among designers, manufacturers and other players in the apparel industry. The goal of our study was to investigate various 1D and 2D shape descriptors used to characterize renderings of 3D drape simulations in dependence on the geometry of collision objects and fabric type. Image processing routines were implemented to extract and compute the shape descriptors while principal components analysis was applied to interpret the relationships among the parameters studied. Drapes on cube, octahedron and prism were found to behave in a distinctively different manner compared to those produced using the other six collision objects: cone, cylinder, dodecahedron, gengon, sphere, and tube. A first principal component can be, to a large extent, represented by the following mutually strongly correlated 2D shape descriptors: area, major axis length, minor axis length, equivalent diameter, and perimeter. Analysis using 1D shape descriptors confirms these findings and additionally suggests that rubber-based drapes contain the lowest number of folds while those on polyester, wool, and sometimes silk and/or satin are characterized by the highest number of drape folds. These results were confirmed by visual examination of the drapes simulated.

Characterization and simulation of structural fabrics – Part 2: Evaluating process simulation software in a product development cycle

Part 1 of this article, published in the March/April 2015 issue of Reinforced Plastics, presented an insight into multiaxial reinforcements specialist FORMAX's approach to materials characterization, simulation of processing and composites performance. In this concluding article, Liam O'Sullivan, KTP Associate and Composite Engineer at FORMAX, presents a case study of a typical automotive part and examines the benefits of this approach, including the development of optimized fabric architecture. This process involves the use of FORMAX's recently developed capabilities to measure drape and permeability characteristics of reinforcement fabrics, which have been developed as part of a two-year Knowledge Transfer Partnership (KTP) with the University of Nottingham and Innovate UK.

Fabric objective measurement and drape

This issue of Textile Progress reviews the origins of fabric objective measurement through its research and development phases to its current use in research and industry. It then examines, in greater detail, the use of fabric objective measurement (FOM) methods for the measurement and prediction of fabric drape. Such prediction has become increasingly important in recent times, due to the push from the fashion industry for accurate three-dimensional (3-D) simulation and animation of apparel in its various forms, to allow fashion designers to visually prototype their garment creations without the need for the tedious and time-consuming steps involved in real-garment prototyping. The demand for accurate 3-D simulation and animation is occurring in the face of an ever-increasing variety of fabric types, which means that drape measurement methods must become more sensitive and more widely applicable than has been the case to date. The authors, in the light of this review and their own research experiences with fabric drape, offer the view that the measurements taken by existing methods of FOM and drape are unlikely to provide the accuracy and wide applicability required for realistic on-screen evaluation of apparel, not least because in a garment, fabric is neither draped nor supported horizontally in the way that the fabric is configured in the test methods.

New Approach to Assessing Fabric Drape Based on the Fractal Dimension

The usefulness of the fractal dimension of drape (D) to explain the shape of fabrics acquired when allowed to fall freely under the effect of gravity was assessed by using the box-counting method to calculate it for comparison with the drape ratio (%DR) of 36 commercial woven fabrics spanning a wide range of composition, weave type and mass per square meter. These two parameters were found to be highly correlated with %DR, varying over wide ranges and D over narrow ranges. Based on the results, the fractal nature of the drape does not significantly improve on the information about the drape shape in woven fabrics provided by the well-known indicator “drape ratio” (%DR).

Internal Structure of the Sheared Textile Composite Reinforcement: Analysis Using X-Ray Tomography

X-ray micro computed tomography (Micro-CT) is a non-destructive technique that can provide information on the internal structure of materials. The purpose of micro-CT is to assess the presence of defects as well as characterizing internal structures and potential damage present in the produced part. Simple shear is an interesting deformation mechanism for woven fabric draping. The internal structure change of the carbon fibre twill fabric after shear deformation is chosen as a subject of this paper. Parameters of the mesoscopic internal structure of the woven fabric like cross section, shape, area, and middle line coordinates can be obtained from micro-CT images through image processing procedures. Details of the image data processing for sheared fabric cross sections are discussed. This paper illustrates the possibilities of micro-focus computer tomography in materials research, namely for defining geometrical properties of textile. Image processing is also used for the recognition of fibre direction in the yarns. Described methodology can be applied for determining structure of a fabric, and the results can be used for further micromechanical modelling. Identification of the fibres orientation is important for estimation of the mechanical properties of composites and can be achieved with image processing techniques.

EVALUATION OF FABRIC DRAPE BASED ON RGB-D SENSOR SYSTEM

EVALUATION OF FABRIC DRAPE BASED ON RGB-D SENSOR SYSTEM

Investigating Garment Drape Behaviour

Drapeability is one of the most important visual properties affecting garment appearance. Even though there are many studies concerned with fabric drape, understanding about the drape behaviour of garments is very limited. This study analyzes the key properties affecting the drape behaviour of garments to provide prediction equations. Results are statistically analyzed. From multiple regression analysis, drape rank scores obtained from subjective analyses are predicted using weight, bending modulus and extensibility measured at 100 gf/cm with a correlation coefficient of 0.94. Ranking values obtained from subjective analyses can be more easily predicted using both circularity and wave length minimum. A new equation was derived to predict drape rank score values of garments (correlation coefficient r = 0.97) depending on circularity and wavelength minimum.

Fabric draping and cotton fabric structure relation analysis

Draping can be defined as a phenomenon of crease-forming when the fabric is put under pressure of its own mass, but without the influence of external forces. The drape ability of the material has a direct influence on the appearance and functionality of the garment. Recent findings in this field indicate that researchers have mostly been defining the phenomenon of draping on the basis of the mechanical characteristics of textiles. This paper presents the method that aims to predict the draping parameters, where drape is defined in dependence of the structure and construction parameters of the woven fabric. A particular attention is focused on connecting the drape coefficient with the fabric weight and relative density of the fabric. Relative density is defined by the structure and construction parameters of the fabric such as: yarn count (tex), fiber density (g∙cm-3), the coefficient (factor) of fiber packing in the yarn, the weave repeat, the number of effect-changes in the repeat, the position of intersection points in the weave repeat and the flexibility coefficient of yarns.

A Geometry Information Based Fishnet Algorithm for Woven Fabric Draping in Liquid Composite Molding

The draping of 2D textile fabrics is an important concern in the 3D composite parts manufacturing. The existing fitting algorithms for draping simulation are difficult to make a trade-off between flexibility, speed and accuracy. In the present work, a novel fishnet algorithm based on geometry information (GIB-fishnet algorithm) is proposed. Firstly, the fabric deformation modes during the draping process are analyzed, then several fundamental assumptions for draping simulation are proposed. Based on these assumptions and the theory of kinematic draping simulation, the GIB-fishnet algorithm is introduced, in this algorithm, geometry information of the surface such as tangent vector and normal curvature are used to determine the position of the current node. The use of the geometry information simplifies the mapping calculation and improves the computational accuracy. Two geometric algorithms for computing surface/surface intersection and seeking the shortest path on the surface, which are needed in the GIB-fishnet algorithm, are also studied in this paper. Finally, the simulation results of draping on three types of surfaces generated by different algorithms are compared, and the accuracy, speed and stability of the GIB-fishnet algorithm are verified. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5755/j01.ms.20.4.6075

Quality Improvement of Wool Fabric Using Protease Enzyme

Wool is a fiber from the fleece of domesticated sheep. The scaly structure of wool is responsible, to a great extent, for the tendency of wool to felt and shrink. Chlorination is a commonly used process to modify the scales of wool fibers with the purpose of providing resistance to felting and shrinkage but this process shows a number of drawbacks which forced to search for an ecologically clean alternative. There have been many attempts to replace this chlorine process by an environmental friendly process that would similarly degrade the scales. Enzyme processing is one of them that has come to forefront in the textile processing units and made processing more eco-friendly. In the present study an attempt was made to treat the wollen fabric with different concentrations (1, 2, 3, 4 and 5g/l) of Protease enzyme and observed the effects on physical properties including hand of the fabric, weight loss, Scanning Electron Microscope (SCM) test, absorbency, pilling, tensile strength, and fabric drape, dyeability as well as colour fastness properties of woolen fabrics. The control, scoured and enzyme treated samples were also tested and compared. All the samples were dyed with acid dye to check the effect of enzymatic degumming on dye ability of wool fabric. The dyed fabrics were subjected to testing for various colorfastness properties including light, washing, crocking and perspiration. Untreated wool fiber showed fair handle, no absorbency (60 seconds), rough and sharp scales on the surface of fiber, however enzyme treatment with different concentrations wool fabric showed improvement in softness, slight weight loss (6.31%), smoother surface scales, improved absorbency (minimum 45 seconds) and drapability. Treatment with protease enzyme brought improvement in the physical and colorfastness properties of wool fabric. Among all the concentrations of protease enzyme, 4 g/l concentration was found to be best.

Investigating seamed woven fabric drape using experimental and virtual approaches

The aim of this study was to investigate the drape properties of seamed woven fabric using experimental and virtual approaches. Firstly, the influence of different seams on the fabric drape parameters was analyzed based on bending and draping experiments. Then, a preliminary drape simulation method for seamed fabric was presented using shell finite elements. The models with seams were simplified and separated into shell fabric partitions and seam partitions. The projection images of all models were extracted for calculating the drape coefficient and average radius. Through contrasting of drape profiles and correlate analysis of drape parameters, it shows that the drape properties between simulating and testing are very similar and correlated. Furthermore, their regression formulas of drape coefficient and average radius were given by regression analysis. The work has some helps for further study on evaluating and simulating the garment aesthetic performance in considering of seam’s mechanical properties.

Volume Based Measurement of Fabric Drape using Surfer Software and Studies on Effect of Influencing Factors

The human being needs more comfort on clothing than its color, design and appearance. Drape is one of the important factor influencing the aesthetics and comfort of fabrics. In the initial days fabric drape was measured by using Cusick’s drape meter. Due to technology development and up gradation several instruments were developed by many researchers. In this research work one such latest technology was used to measure fabric drape in three dimensional way using SURFER software. Here, the instrument used for measuring fabric drape was slightly modified from the Cusick Drape meter. The perforated circular disc was placed over the sample to measure the xyz coordinates of sample on radials range from 9.5cm to 14.5cm at each 5o intervals. The civil engineers use XYZ coordinates to measure the surface the of land profile (either hill or valley) using software. The same concept was followed to measure the profile of drape in three dimensional way using SURFER software. The xyz values are fed as input to the software and it generates contour lines, 3D view, vector lines, drape volume and drape profile area as output. The drape coefficient was computed from the volume of drape profile and analyzed to study the effect of six different seams, seam directions and number of stitches with two different stitch densities. The seam type, number of stitches (single/double), their interaction density * number of stitches and stitch density * seam have significant effect on volume based drape coefficient. The calculated volume (obtained from average radius and height) is compared with volume generated by SURFER software method and it was found that there is significance difference exists.

Intelligent Model to Investigate the Sound of Woven Fabric by Using Signal Processing and Artificial Neural Network

Fabric comfort comprises fabric sound which is the sound generated by fabric during wear by users. In this work sound generated by samples of polyester and cotton-polyester woven fabric was investigated. The sample specifications in warp wise direction were identical. In order to stimulate sound generated by the samples, an apparatus capable of sound induction was designed and developed. The recorded sound signals were analyzed, using Discrete Fourier Transform, together with Discrete Wavelet Transform. Sub-bands energy of FFT and energy coefficients of wavelet transform were calculated. The effect of Physical and mechanical properties on sound features of samples was predicted using Multilayer Feed forward network with back propagation learning algorithm. The network generated results showed that, fabric surface roughness and drape coefficient are the most and the least effective parameters affecting sound volume respectively.

Draping of plain woven carbon fabrics over a double-curvature mold

Abstract This paper investigates the complex fiber reorientation and redistribution of plain woven carbon fabrics draping over a double-curvature mold through experimental and numerical approaches. Firstly, uni-axial tensile, bias-extension and picture-frame tests are carried out to obtain the material properties of the woven carbon fabrics. Material parameters for a previously developed simple anisotropic hyperelastic model are accordingly obtained. Secondly, draping experiments are implemented at room temperature using samples with different original fiber orientation. Deformed fabric boundary profiles and local shear angle variations are recorded and analyzed. The draping process is then simulated by using the anisotropic hyperelastic model taking into account material and geometric non-linearity. Very good agreement between simulation and experimental results is obtained. The ultimate goal of the investigation is to develop a design tool for the numerical simulation and processing optimization of woven composites forming.