Abstract
In most cases, fabrics such as curtains, skirts, suit pants and so on are draped under their own gravity parallel to fabric plane while the gravity is perpendicular to fabric plane in traditional drape testing method. As a result, it does not conform to actual situation and the test data is not convincing enough. To overcome this problem, this paper presents a novel method which simulates the real mechanical conditions and ensures the gravity is parallel to the fabric plane. This method applied a low-cost Kinect Sensor device to capture the 3-dimensional (3D) drape profile, thus we obtained the drape degree parameters and aesthetic parameters by 3D reconstruction and image processing and analysis techniques. The experiment was conducted on our self-devised drape-testing instrument by choosing different kinds of weave structure fabrics as our testing samples and the results were compared with those of traditional method and subjective evaluation. Through regression and correlation analysis we found that this novel testing method was significantly correlated with the traditional and subjective evaluation method. We achieved a new, non-contact 3D measurement method for drape testing, namely unidirectional fabric drape testing method. This method is more suitable for evaluating drape behavior because it is more in line with actual mechanical conditions of draped fabrics and has a well consistency with the requirements of visual and aesthetic style of fabrics.
Highlights
As an important aesthetic indicator of textiles, drape refers to the 3D deformation of fabrics arising from their own weight [1,2] and affects garment appearance quality profoundly [3,4]
We chosed the projective wave curve (as the red curve shown in Fig 2(B)) which was obtained by intercepting the 3D model with a horizontal plane from the bottom of the fabric as our evaluating object for the following reason: the closer the horizontal plane was to the holder, the stronger clamping effect to the sample would be, which meant that the fabric drape was not in a free hanging state and the result would not be accurate
It is created for the description of drape degree, which indicates that the smaller the value of unidirectional drape coefficient (UDC), the better the drape of the fabric
Summary
As an important aesthetic indicator of textiles, drape refers to the 3D deformation of fabrics arising from their own weight [1,2] and affects garment appearance quality profoundly [3,4]. Measuring and predicting the behavior of draped fabrics has been one of the most significant things in the field of fabric computer simulation which helps to clothing design and production [5,6,7,8]. Drape is subjectively evaluated by textile and apparel workers in the design and manufacturing industry [9], but the result of this method varies greatly with different individuals and lacks of reproducibility. The progress of evaluating fabric drape was first begun by Peirce in 1930 [10].
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