Weaving, as a parametric medium, involves various parameters, some of which can be altered while others remain constant. One constant parameter is the right angle between the weft and warp yarns, established by the weaving reed. The reed sets the warp density and the weave’s width. This paper presents a new concept of a three-dimensional, adjustable reed. This reed modifies the weaving structure by changing the density of the weft yarns across the fabric. Our reed is constructed to allow the dents to move forward and backward during the weaving process, with the position maintained by replaceable cardboard stencils. These stencils enable the reed’s dents to form different curves that transfer onto the weft yarns, impacting the weave architecture by allowing the weft yarns to deviate from a perpendicular alignment with the warp yarns. This innovative reed design offers new structural possibilities and properties for woven textiles, exemplified by a series of 3D textiles and a case study of a seamless, fully fashioned skirt. In this study, the weft yarns’ length along the skirt is extended using zig-zag-shaped stencils, resulting in a skirt with an A-line silhouette. The Variable Reed has the potential to improve efficiency by reducing production steps and minimizing waste in the manufacturing of seamless woven garments.
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