Recent studies show that deep person re-identification (re-ID) models are vulnerable to adversarial examples, so it is critical to improving the robustness of re-ID models against attacks. To achieve this goal, we explore the strengths and weaknesses of existing re-ID models, i.e., designing learning-based attacks and training robust models by defending against the learned attacks. The contributions of this paper are three-fold: First, we build a holistic attack-defense framework to study the relationship between the attack and defense for person re-ID. Second, we introduce a combinatorial adversarial attack that is adaptive to unseen domains and unseen model types. It consists of distortions in pixel and color space (i.e., mimicking camera shifts). Third, we propose a novel virtual-guided meta-learning algorithm for our attack-defense system. We leverage a virtual dataset to conduct experiments under our meta-learning framework, which can explore the cross-domain constraints for enhancing the generalization of the attack and the robustness of the re-ID model. Comprehensive experiments on three large-scale re-ID benchmarks demonstrate that: 1) Our combinatorial attack is effective and highly universal in cross-model and cross-dataset scenarios; 2) Our meta-learning algorithm can be readily applied to different attack and defense approaches, which can reach consistent improvement; 3) The defense model trained on the learning-to-learn framework is robust to recent SOTA attacks that are not even used during training.