Cosmeceutical Products Research Articles

Potential role of peptides for development of cosmeceutical skin products

Potential role of peptides for development of cosmeceutical skin products

ASSESSING COSMECEUTICALS PROPERTIES OF SOME MACROFUNGI FOR IMPROVED SKINCARE

Objective: This study has investigated cosmeceutical properties namely, antibacterial, sun protection factor and total phenolics contents of some selected macrofungi. The studies were conducted on five reference cultures collected from Indian type culture collection center (IMTEC, Chandigarh, India) and five isolates collected from TERI-Deakin Nano Biotechnology Centre facility at TERI Gram, Gurugram, India.
 Methods: The cosmeceutical properties of the crude extracts from selected macrofungi were analyzed using standard bioassay techniques. Antibacterial activity was analyzed against Staphylococcus epidermidis, Escherichia coli, Micrococcus luteus, Bacillus megaterium, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, and Acinetobacter baumannii using Agar well diffusion method. The sun protection factor was estimated and calculated using the Mansur equation. Free radical scavenging activity using DPPH was performed to assess the antioxidant activity of the extracts.
 Results: Ethyl acetate extracts of the broth from P. florida and TERI-G1 cultures showed a broad-spectrum antibacterial activity against S. epidermidis, E. coli, M. luteus and B. megaterium. Ethyl acetate extracts of the broth from TERI-G3 showed the highest SPF activity of 34.02 at 200 µg. ml-1 concentration. Ethyl acetate extract of the broth from F. velutipes, P. florida, P. ostreatus, and TERI-G1 showed comparable antioxidant activity of 66.86%, 79.51%, 82.02%, and 69.58% respectively when compared to ascorbic acid (85.83%) and quercetin (83.09%) taken as positive control in the study and their total phenolic contents were found to be 6.93, 43.68, 20.88 and 13.77 Gallic acid equivalent (GAE) per gram. The minimal inhibitory concentration of F. velutipes, P. florida, P. ostreatus, and TERI-G1 was found to be 3552.89 µg. ml-1, 1250 µg. ml-1, 2418.9 µg. ml-1 and 3219 µg. ml-1 respectively.
 Conclusion: The work is in progress to identify and characterize TERI-G1and TERI G3 cultures. Further studies on the anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase, elastase inhibition properties of the cultures will be assessed to identify potential cosmeceutical active ingredients with promising applications in cosmeceutical products.

Assessment of fermented broken rice extracts for their potential as functional ingredients in cosmeceutical products

Rice-derived bioactive compounds are now widely used as active ingredients in health foods, pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical products and as food additives. Polyphenolic compounds, gamma oryzanol, and vitamin E are among the bioactive constituents in rice that have important antioxidant, anti-aging, and anti-pigmentation properties among others. In this present study, broken rice was subjected to solid-state fermentation for 20 days by using two types of fungi, Aspergillus niger and Rhizopus oligosporus. Cosmeceutical-related functionalities of the fermented broken rice extracts were tested by evaluating antioxidant activities as well as tyrosinase and elastase inhibition activities. Total phenolic content and total flavonoid content of fermented broken rice extracts were also measured. Fermentation caused a substantial increase in the total phenolic and flavonoid content of broken rice. Ferric-reducing antioxidant activity was the highest (18.47 mM FE(II)/g sample) in broken rice fermented with R. oligosporus on day 20. Fermentation of broken rice with the same fungus resulted in higher DPPH radical-scavenging antioxidant activity than A. niger, with the highest activity recorded was 94.17%. Broken rice fermented with R. oligosporus for 20 days had the highest tyrosinase and elastase inhibition activities with the value of 46% and 51.9%, respectively. The results demonstrate that the fermentation process increased the biological activities and the numbers of bioactive compounds for potential use in the cosmeceutical industry. This undervalued by-product of the rice milling industry can effectively be used for the production of high value products through fungal solid-state fermentation.

Formulation Development and Facial Skin Evaluation of Serum Containing Jellose from Tamarind Seeds

Jellose is a natural polysaccharide that is extracted from tamarind seed kernel. This natural polymer has many good properties to be a useful excipient for pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical products. It can used as a thickening agent, suspending agent, viscosity enhancer, emulsifying agent and more. Recently, it was reported that jellose can inhibit tyrosinase enzyme and has antioxidant activity which makes this ingredient interesting to be utilized for skin lightening in cosmeceutical products. The aim of this study was to formulate a facial serum product containing jellose as one of active ingredients, evaluate the physicochemical properties and stability, and also obtain a clinical result of product with the help of volunteers. Two types of jellose serums were developed: oil in water formula; and oil-free formula. The stability of serum was studied under heating and cooling cycle tests for 6 cycles, and then placed in room temperature (30±1°C) for 3 months. Results showed that both types of serums had good stability. The physicochemical properties such as viscosity, pH, antioxidant activity and tyrosinase enzyme inhibition activity were evaluated to select the optimal formulation. The selected formulation was tested by applying it on the facial area of 35 healthy volunteers aged 35-75 years, and then analyzing with Skin Visual Analyzer at 15, 30 and 60 days. It was found that the jellose serum can reduce skin roughness, has an anti-wrinkle property, and brightened the skin significantly when regularly used for at least 30 days. During this study, none of the volunteers reported any kind of allergies and the overall satisfaction assessment of jellose serum was excellent. It was concluded that jellose can become a novel and potential ingredient in cosmeceuticals.

2'-Fucosyllactose Attenuates Particulate Matter-Induced Inflammation via Inhibition of Hypoxia-Inducible Factor in Keratinocytes.

2'-Fucosyllactose (2FL) is the most abundant component of the oligosaccharide content in human milk. It has been reported that 2FL has the ability to protect against infectious disease caused by bacterial pathogens. In this study, we investigated the protective effects of 2FL on particulate matter (PM)10-induced pro-inflammatory cytokines in HaCaT keratinocytes. 2FL reduced PM10-induced excess expression of interleukin (IL)-6, IL-8, IL-1α and IL-1β in HaCaT keratinocytes. In addition, PM10 also increased hypoxia-inducible factor (HIF)-1α protein levels; however, 2FL inhibited the accumulation of HIF-1α protein and the phosphorylation of phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K)/Akt stimulated by PM10. Furthermore, 2FL improved PM10-induced the decrease in epidermal thickness and integrity of the cornified layer in the reconstructed human epidermal skin model (RHE). In our results, 2FL inhibited PM10-induced pro-inflammatory mediators by regulating the HIF-1α/PI3K/Akt pathway and protected the skin epidermis against PM10 irritation. Taken together, these results suggest that 2FL can be used as a primary ingredient in cosmeceutical products to alleviate skin irritation and inflammation caused by urban air pollution.

Cosmetic potentials of extracts and compounds from Zingiber cassumunar Roxb. rhizome

Zingiber cassumunar Roxb. is a medically important plant with extensive traditional medicinal functions and bioactivities. It is also used in some skin-care balm by local people. Nevertheless, the research on the active components of the plant related to skin-care is not enough, which mainly involved some antioxidant and anti-inflammatory active compounds. This study investigated the extracts and components from rhizome of Z. cassumunar for their 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging, HDFa collagen secretion promotion, tyrosinase inhibition, and NO generation inhibition activities for the purpose of identifying ingredients with potential anti-aging, skin-whitening, and anti-inflammation for use in cosmetics. Ethyl acetate (EtOAc) extract of the plant showed significant NO generation inhibition, DPPH radical scavenging, tyrosinase inhibitory activities, and weak promoting collagen secretion activity while petroleum ether (PE) extract showed obvious NO generation inhibition activity. Six active compounds, (E)-3-(3,4-dimethoxyphenyl)-2-propenal (1), cis-3-(3,4-dimethoxyphenyl)-4-[(E)-2,4,5-trimehoxystyryl]cyclohex-1-ene (2), 1-feruloyloxy cinnamic acid (3), (1E,4E,6E)-1,7-bis(4-hydroxyphenyl)-1,4,6-heptatrien-3-one (4), bisdemethoxycurcumin (5), and curcumin (6), were isolated from PE and EtOAc extracts by bioassay-guided fractionation. 1, 3, 4, 5, and 6 showed significant NO generation inhibition activity with IC50 of 22.67 ± 2.36, 7.00 ± 0.22, 15.40 ± 0.63, 5.47 ± 0.09, and 7.16 ± 0.05 μM, respectively. 3 also showed potent DPPH radical scavenging activity with IC50 of 22.96 ± 0.87 μg/mL. 4 was a good tyrosinase inhibitor with the inhibitory rate of 42.56 ± 1.02% under the concentration of 100 μg/mL. 2 and 4 showed significant HDFa collagen secretion promoting activity with EC50 of 13.91 ± 1.56 and 8.50 ± 1.31 μg/mL, respectively. This is the first report on components from Z. cassumunar for their HDFa collagen secretion promotion and tyrosinase inhibition activities. These results suggest that medicinal plant Z. cassumunar possesses potential application value in the development of natural cosmeceutical products for anti-aging, skin-whitening, and anti-inflammation activity.

Dynamic mechanical analysis of novel cosmeceutical facial creams containing nano-encapsulated natural plant and fruit extracts.

Cosmetic industry following the recent trends in the relative market has turned its interest in the formation of cosmeceutical products containing natural bioactive ingredients. Natural extracts may reveal undesirable sensory characteristics due to their composition. Encapsulation and nanotechnology are the most promising methods to overcome these drawbacks, opening up new perspectives for the future of cosmeceutical industry. The purpose of this study was the use of nano-encapsulated plant and fruit extracts to formulate cosmeceutical facial creams with acceptable rheological characteristics. Electrohydrodynamic process was used to encapsulate pomegranate and tea tree oil extracts and incorporate them in facial cosmetic creams. All the formulations including those without additives, were stored at three different temperatures. Subsequently, rheological oscillatory tests (frequency sweep tests) were performed using the dynamic mechanical analysis method in order to evaluate alterations in storage modulus (G'), loss modulus (G''), and complex viscosity (η*). Dynamic mechanical analysis, showed that all formulations are suitable for application in cosmetic industry, while changes due to storage period or the storage temperature were negligible. The addition of the selected extracts' nanofibers to formulate cosmeceutical facial creams, developed products with acceptable rheological characteristics that could be decisive for the cosmetics industry.

A novel 3D-printed solid phase microextraction device equipped with silver-polyaniline coated pencil lead for the extraction of phthalate esters in cosmeceutical products

A screw-based portable and simple solid phase microextraction device was fabricated by a 3D printer and used in combination with the developed silver-incorporated porous polyaniline film pencil lead solid-phase microextraction fiber (Ag/PANI SPME). Scanning electron microscopy revealed a porous structure of the electrodeposited Ag/PANI film. The spectrum from energy dispersive x-ray spectroscopy (EDS) and the elemental map confirmed the presence of silver in the porous polymer film. It was used under stirring for the extraction of five phthalate esters: dimethyl phthalate (DMP), diethyl phthalate (DEP), dibutyl phthalate (DBP), benzyl butyl phthalate (BBP) and di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP). The extracted solution was identified and quantified by gas chromatography using a flame ionization detector (GC-FID). Under the optimum conditions of the developed method, a good linearity was obtained in a concentration range of 5.0–1000 μg L−1 for all five phthalate esters with limits of detection (LODs) of 4.41 ± 0.91 μg L−1, 3.98 ± 0.92 μg L−1, 3.65 ± 0.74 μg L−1, 4.91 ± 0.52 μg L−1 and 4.25 ± 0.66 μg L−1 for DMP, DEP, DBP, BBP and DEHP, respectively. The developed method provided good precision when tested with standard solutions (RSD < 5.5%, n = 6) and real samples (RSD < 3.4%, n = 6). Good fiber-to-fiber reproducibility was also confirmed by extraction with six newly prepared fibers; recoveries ranged from 81.09 ± 0.54% to 92.92 ± 0.46% with RSD <6.6%. The developed method was used to determine phthalate esters in 14 cosmeceutical samples. In rubbing alcohol samples, DEP and DEHP were detected at 7.03 ± 0.76 μg L−1 and 5.89 ± 0.53 μg L−1, respectively, while in contact lens cleaners, DEHP was found in a concentration range from 5.3 ± 1.1 μg L−1 to 6.8 ± 1.2 μg L−1. No phthalate esters contamination was detectable in saline solutions, eye cleaners and antibacterial disinfectant liquids. Recoveries in the range of 81.92 ± 0.99% to 102.4 ± 1.1% indicated the good accuracy of the developed method.

Mucous cell distribution and mucus production during early growth periods of the giant African snail (Achatina fulica)

The giant African snail (Achatina fulica) secretes mucus for crawling and protection from moisture loss and pathogenic infections. The snail mucus has been popularly used as a bioactive reagent in medical and cosmeceutical products. This study observed the distribution of pedal mucous cells of A. fulica and the snail growth effect (1–3 mth) on pedal mucus production and the types of mucous cells. Foot tissues were processed using a paraffin technique and stained with Masson’s trichrome, periodic acid Schiff, and periodic acid Schiff-Alcian Blue at pH 2.5. Visualization under a light microscope showed that the pedal mucus of A. fulica was mainly produced from two types of mucous glands: 1) tubular mucous gland cells located on the dorsal part of foot that produced acid mucopolysaccharide mucus; and 2) round mucous gland cells located on the ventral part of foot that produced acid and neutral mucopolysaccharide mucus. A positive correlation between the acid mucin level and snail age was only observed on the dorsal area. The level of neutral mucin from both sides was highest after 2 mth. The average length of the mucous cells on the dorsal surface significantly increased during growth. This study revealed the change and distribution of the mucous cells in early A. fulica development to inform further applications in snail bioactive compounds.

Development of topical drug delivery system with Sphaeranthus indicus flower extract and its investigation on skin as a cosmeceutical product.

Cosmetics are the products used to beautify the skin. Emulsion is a fine dispersion of two or more immiscible liquids. Sphaeranthus indicus is claimed to be used for skin beautification in folk medicine. Multiple emulsion was formulated containing the extract of S indicus flowers. This research study indicates that extract of S indicus flowers contains sufficient amount of polyphenols and also possess good antioxidant activity with mushroom tyrosinase inhibition activity. Further, stable multiple emulsion was developed and stability testing was performed for 180days by keeping the multiple emulsion at 8°C±1, 25°C±1, 40°C±1, and 40°C±1 with 75%±1 RH. Parameters checked were color change, phase distribution, viscosity, droplet size and size distribution, pH determination, and electrical conductivity. Sun protection factor (SPF) was determined which also showed promising results. Skin testing on human volunteers was done for 3months after biosafety profiling of the most stable multiple emulsion. This also showed remarkable effects. Skin erythema, melanin, and sebum were reduced. Skin hydration and elasticity were increased. There was also reduction in the number of skin large and small skin pores. Skin spot area was also reduced by the use of multiple emulsion loaded with S indicus flower extract. ANOVA test showed that all the effects produced on skin were significant, ie, P≤.05. A stable multiple emulsion was developed which produced significant cosmetic effects on human skin.

Bioactive Compounds Constituent and Anti-Inflammatory Activity of Natural Rice Bran Oil Produced from Colored and Non-Pigmented Rice in Northern Thailand

The aims of the study were to measure and compare the content of the bioactive compounds in natural rice bran oils (NRBOs) and investigate for anti-inflammatory activity through inhibition effect on nitric oxide (NO) and inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) in RAW264.7 mouse macrophage cells.NRBOs were prepared from colored and non-pigmented rice in northern Thailand using the cold-press technique. The bioactive compound constituents in NRBOs, including tocotrienols, tocopherols, and γ-oryzanol were analyzed by reversed-phase HPLC. Then, anti-inflammatory activity was investigated through an inhibition effect on NO and iNOS production induced by combined lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-interferon-γ (IFN-γ) in RAW264.7 mouse macrophage cells. The results demonstrated that NRBOs prepared from purple rice, red rice and non-pigmented rice consist of δ, γ, and α-tocotrienol, δ, β, γ, and α-tocopherol, and γ-oryzanol. γ-Oryzanol, γ-tocotrienol, and γ-tocopherol were the major bioactive compounds in NRBOs. NRBOs prepared from purple rice bran exhibited higher concentrations of the bioactive compounds than red rice bran and non-pigmented rice bran, respectively. Khaoʹ′ GamLeum-Phua (KGLP) exhibited the highest amount of δ, γ and α-tocotrienol, δ, γ, β and α-tocopherol, and γ-oryzanol. Interestingly, all NRBOs inhibited NO and iNOS production by LPS/IFN-γ-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. Additionally, NRBO prepared from KGLP exhibited the highest inhibitory activity on NO and iNOS production. There may a potential use for pigmented NRBOs especially cultivated in mountainous areas which containing high amounts of tocotrienols, tocopherols, and γ-oryzanol, as a natural anti-inflammatory active ingredient in nutraceutical and cosmeceutical products.

Development of Thai Gac Fruit Extraction as a Multifunctional Cosmeceutical Ingredient for Antioxidant, Melanogenesis and Collagen Stimulating Activities

Gac fruit (Momordica cochinchinensisSpreng) is mostly found in southeast Asian countries. Previous studies have demonstrated that gac fruit is a major source of β-carotene, lycopene, and α-tocopherol. This study aimed to develop the extraction of Thai gac fruit as a potential active ingredient for antioxidant, melanogenesis, and collagen stimulating activities. In the present study, different parts of ripe Thai gac fruit, the peel, pulp, and seed membrane, were extracted using the accelerated solvent extraction (ASE) technique, an innovative plant extraction method. DPPH radical-scavenging activity, ABTS radical scavenging activity, and ferric reducing/antioxidant power (FRAP) assay were performed to compare the antioxidant activity derived from each part of the fruit. The effect of Thai gac fruit on melanogenesis and collagen stimulating activities was investigated using B16F1 and human fibroblast cell lines, respectively. The results demonstrate that the pulp (EC50value of 7.42 ± 0.81 mg/mL) and the seed membrane (EC50value of 76.43 ± 2.66 μg/mL) showed the strongest antioxidant activities in DPPH and ABTS assay, respectively. The peel clearly displayed the strongest antioxidant activity and significantly increased the FRAP value (247.67 ± 19.73 μM/mg). Furthermore, the peel showed the lowest melanin content (76.56 ± 7.13 % of control) in the B16F1 cell line, and clearly increased the most amount of collagen (21.87 ± 3.12%) in the human fibroblast cell line in comparison to the other fractions. Therefore, Thai gac fruit peel revealed the biological effects, including antioxidant, melanogenesis, and collagen stimulating activities. In conclusion, Thai gac fruit extracted using the ASE technique exhibited several effects that could be used as a potential active ingredient for cosmeceutical products, due to its antioxidant, melanogenesis, and collagen stimulating activities. Our findings provide potential uses of Thai gac fruit as a multifunctional cosmeceutical ingredient to be further explored in future studies.

Liposomes of probiotic's lyophilized cell free supernatant; a potential cosmeceutical product.

The potential uses of lyophilized cell free supernatant (CFS) of human oral derived Lactobacillus paracasei SD1 and Lactobacillus rhamnosus SD11 as cosmeceutical ingredients were investigated in the present study. Lyophilized CFS of both strains showed the antioxidant activity in concentration dependent manner. They also exhibited antimicrobial activity against P. acne, S. aureus and S. epidermidis. In combination, these two strains produced synergistic responses, not only on antioxidant activity but also on antimicrobial activity. A liposomal delivery system was employed to mask the unpleasant colour and odour of CFS. The optimal liposome formulation was characterized by a particle size of 344 nm, PDI of 0.19, zeta value of -48.05 mV and %EE of 69.45. The cytotoxicity results showed that the lyophilized CFS, which was toxic, became non-toxic after encapsulating into liposomes. Altogether, current findings demonstrate the worthiness of development of liposomes of probiotic's lyophilized CFS for cosmeceutical applications.

Antityrosinase, Antioxidant, and Cytotoxic Activities of Phytochemical Constituents from Manilkara zapota L. Bark.

Hyperpigmentation is considered by many to be a beauty problem and is responsible for photoaging. To treat this skin condition, medicinal cosmetics containing tyrosinase inhibitors are used, resulting in skin whitening. In this study, taraxerol methyl ether (1), spinasterol (2), 6-hydroxyflavanone (3), (+)-dihydrokaempferol (4), 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid (5), taraxerol (6), taraxerone (7), and lupeol acetate (8) were isolated from Manilkara zapota bark. Their chemical structures were elucidated by analysis of their nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy and mass spectrometry (MS) data, and by comparing them with data found in the literature. The in vitro antityrosinase, antioxidant, and cytotoxic activities of the isolated compounds (1–8) were evaluated. (+)-Dihydrokaempferol (4) exhibited higher monophenolase inhibitory activity than both kojic acid and α-arbutin. However, it showed diphenolase inhibitory activity similar to kojic acid. (+)-Dihydrokaempferol (4) was a competitive inhibitor of both monophenolase and diphenolase activities. It exhibited the strongest 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS), and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) activities of the isolated compounds. Furthermore, (+)-dihydrokaempferol (4) also demonstrated potent cytotoxicity in breast carcinoma cell line (BT474), lung bronchus carcinoma cell line (Chago-K1), liver carcinoma cell line (HepG2), gastric carcinoma cell line (KATO-III), and colon carcinoma cell line (SW620). These results suggest that M. zapota bark might be a good potential source of antioxidants and tyrosinase inhibitors for applications in cosmeceutical products.

Abalone Collagen Extracts Potentiate Stem Cell Properties of Human Epidermal Keratinocytes.

Stem cell activities in human tissues are critical for tissue integrity and function. Maintaining keratinocyte stem cells (KSCs) stemness helps sustain healthy skin by supporting keratinocyte renewal, involving the formation of epidermal barriers. In this study, abalone collagen (AC) extracts with molecular weights of 3 kDa (AC 1) and 300 kDa (AC 2) were compared to the epidermal growth factor (EGF) for their effects on cell proliferation, cell migration (wound healing), spheroid formation, and the expression level of stem cell markers on human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells). Cell viability was measured by 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay and cell proliferation was quantified by ATP and DNA content analysis and Sulforhodamine B (SRB) assays. Cell migration assay was determined using the scratch wound healing test. Spheroid formation was evaluated and the expression level of stem cell markers was investigated by western blot analysis. The results showed that AC 1 at the concentration of 100 µg/mL could stimulate HaCaT cell proliferation, migration, spheroid formation, and the expression level of stem cell markers (keratin 19, β-catenin, ALDH1A1) compared to the control. In conclusion, a smaller molecular weight of abalone collagen extract exhibits a better effect on keratinocytes proliferation, migration, and stemness, which could be a potential active ingredient in cosmeceutical products.

Delivery of Niacinamide to the Skin Using Microneedle-Like Particles.

The stratum corneum is the outermost skin layer that obstructs the delivery of active ingredients found in cosmeceutical products. Chemical peels and microbeads have been used to overcome this layer, but these methods can cause side effects and are not environmentally friendly. While microneedles do not share the dangers mentioned above, they are currently only available as patches, which makes them unsuitable to be used with products that are usually applied onto a large area of the skin surface. Therefore, the aim of this study was to develop microneedle-like particles (MLP) whose needles would disrupt the skin during the rubbing process. A modified approach taken from conventional micromolding techniques was used to make the MLPs. The experimental results show that the fabricated structures had the required mechanical strength. Furthermore, after the application of the MLPs, the permeability of two fluorescent dyes, fluorescein sodium salt and sulforhodamine B increased to 217.6% ± 25.6% and 251.7% ± 12.8% respectively. Additionally, the permeability of a model drug, niacinamide, was shown to have increased to 193.8% ± 29.9%. Cryosectioned porcine slices also confirmed the ability of MLPs to enhance skin permeability by revealing a deeper penetration of the applied fluorescent dye. Altogether, the results demonstrate the potential of MLPs to be used as safe skin permeability enhancers that can be applied all over the skin.

Colostrum-derived bioactive peptides obtained by fermentation with kefir grains enriched with selected yeasts

The aim of this study was to improve the bovine colostrum biological function through fermentation with kefir grains enhanced with selected yeasts, for developing new nutraceutical and cosmeceutical products. It was found that fermentations with coculture of 2.5 g% artisanal kefir grains and selected yeast strains (106 CFU/100 mL) increased the functional quality of the fermented products compared to the product obtained only with kefir grains. Fresh fermented products obtained with a consortium based on kefir grains and Candida lipolytica MIUG D67 demonstrated an increased antioxidant activity of 2.69 mM Trolox Equivalent/g, after 48 h of fermentation. Instead, peptide fractions with MW<10 kDa isolated by membrane filtration fromlyophilized fermented products, based on colostrum fermentation with kefir grains enhanced with Candida lipolytica MIUG D99 starter, presented markedly increase in vitro of ABTS radical scavenging activity, similar to a concentration of 2 nM captopril. These results indicated their possible application in enhance of the quality of the fermented products in order to increase the postbiotic composition with functional impact in vivo.

Application of Deep Eutectic Solvents to Prepare Mixture Extracts of Three Long-Lived Trees with Maximized Skin-Related Bioactivities

This study aims to apply deep eutectic solvents (DESs) as safe and efficient extraction media that could yield maximized skin-related bioactivities from a mixture of long-lived trees. Ginkgo biloba L., Cinnamomum camphora (L.) J. Presl., and Cryptomeria japonica (L.f.) D. Don, native to Asia, were examined as potential resources of cosmeceutical products. Various DESs synthesized from cosmetics-compatible compounds were used to prepare leaf extracts. A DES containing glycerol and xylitol yielded the highest extractability for isoquercetin, and was selected as the optimal solvent. Isoquercetin has various bioactivities and was found in the extracts of the leaves of all three trees. Then, a series of mixtures of the tree leaves were prepared according to a simplex-centroid mixture design, and their DES-extracts were tested for skin-related activities, including antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and anti-elastase activities. The mixture design resulted in two special cubic models and one quadratic model best fitted for describing the antioxidant and anti-elastase activities, and the anti-tyrosinase activity, respectively. Based on the established models, three different optimal formulations of the three kinds of tree leaves were suggested for maximized responses. The present strategy, which is based on the simplex-centroid mixture design with a DES as the extraction solvent, could be applied to developing new materials from a mixture of natural resources, suitable for the cosmetics and related fields.

Protective effect of green tea catechin against urban fine dust particle-induced skin aging by regulation of NF-κB, AP-1, and MAPKs signaling pathways

The increase in ambient fine dust particles (FDP) due to urbanization and industrialization has been identified as a major contributor to air pollution. It has become a serious issue that threatens human health because it causes respiratory diseases and skin aging. In the present study, the protective effect of the green tea catechin, (−)-epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), against FDP (ERM-CZ100)-stimulated skin aging in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) was investigated. The results demonstrate that EGCG significantly and dose-dependently scavenged intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) in and increased the viability of FDP-stimulated HDFs. In addition, EGCG dose-dependently recovered collagen synthesis and inhibited intracellular elastase and collagenase activities. Moreover, EGCG decreased the expression of human matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) via regulation of nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB), activator protein 1 (AP-1), and mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) signaling pathways in FDP-stimulated HDFs. This study suggests that EGCG is a potential anti-aging candidate that can be used for FDP-induced skin aging as a therapeutic agent itself or as an ingredient in pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical products.

Anti-Wrinkling and Anti-Melanogenic Effect of Pradosia mutisii Methanol Extract.

Ultraviolet (UV) exposure causes skin photoaging leading to skin wrinkling and sagging via production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). For this reason, protection from photoaging is an important feature in cosmeceutical and dermatological products. Natural product-derived biomaterials are highly desired as future possible ingredients, because these biomaterials are often safe and effective. In this study, we aimed to characterize the skin protective activity of Pradosia mutisii, traditionally used to treat sunburn and erythema. We determined the free radical scavenging, anti-melanogenic, and moisturizing effects of a methanol extract of Pradosia mutisii (Pm-ME) in keratinocytes (HaCaT cells), melanocytes (B16F10 cells), and fibroblasts (human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs)) at non-cytotoxic concentrations. Pradosia mutisii methanol extract contains coumaric acid as a major component, and the extract exhibited protective activity against UVB- and H2O2-induced cytotoxicity. This extract also suppressed the expression of metalloproteinases (MMPs) and cyclooxygenase (COX)-2 in HaCaT cells. A reduction of Sirt-1 expression under UVB- and H2O2-treated conditions was recovered in HaCaT cells by Pm-ME. This extract displayed significant free radical scavenging activity according to the 2,2′-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTS) assay. The Pm-ME also upregulated the expression levels of hyaluronic acid synthase (HAS) and transglutaminase-1 (TGM-1) in HaCaT cells, indicating a putative moisturizing activity. Interestingly, the expression of collagen type 1 (Col1A1) gene and its promoter activity, as assessed by a reporter gene assay, were found to be increased in HDF and HEK293 cells. Similarly, Pm-ME helped recover collagen levels after UVB and H2O2 treatment in HDFs as well as decreased the synthesis and secretion of melanin from B16F10 melanoma cells, which may indicate a beneficial whitening cosmetic value. The p38 inhibitor SB203580 and the JNK inhibitor SP600125 suppressed MMP-9 and COX-2 expression in H2O2-treated HaCaT cells. Similarly, the ERK inhibitor U0126 inhibited HAS-2 in Pm-ME/H2O2-treated HaCaT cells. These findings suggested that inhibition of JNK and p38 and activation of ERK could be targeted by Pm-ME. Therefore, Pm-ME may exert anti-photoaging and anti-melanogenic properties via the regulation of mitogen-activated protein kinase, which could be beneficial in the cosmeceutical industry.