Commercial Sunscreen Products Research Articles

Photoprotection and antioxidant activity of eumelanin from Streptomyces lasalocidi NTB 42 and its photoprotective effects on Schizosaccharomyces pombe ARC039.

This study evaluated the photoprotective and antioxidant properties of eumelanin derived from Streptomyces lasalocidi NTB 42 (eumelanin NTB 42). This study also investigated the cellular-level photoprotective effects of eumelanin using Schizosaccharomyces pombe ARC039 as a model organism and its ability to enhance the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of commercial sunscreens. The thermal and light stability and total phenolic and flavonoid contents were analyzed. Antioxidant activity was assessed using hydroxyl radicals (OH), and superoxide anions (O2.-) radical-scavenging assays. The efficacy of photoprotection was determined using various in vitro methods, yeast cell viability assays, and enhanced SPF values of commercial sunscreen products. Eumelanin NTB 42 exhibited both thermal and photostabilities. The total phenolic and flavonoid contents were reported as 88.82±0.68mg gallic acid equivalent (GAE)/g and 53.24±2.66mg quercetin equivalent (QE)/g, respectively, representing the first report on microbial eumelanin. Eumelanin NTB 42 demonstrated significant scavenging activity against OH and O2.-. It also displays notable photoprotective effects against UV-B radiation, offering broad-spectrum coverage and optimal protection against UV-A radiation. It effectively acted as a sunblock against UV-A and UV-B radiation. Furthermore, eumelanin NTB 42 enhanced S. pombe ARC039 cell viability after exposure to UV-B and UV-C for 30-90min. It also augmented the SPF value of commercial products at a minimum concentration of 0.0025%. These findings highlight the potential antioxidant and photoprotective properties of eumelanin NTB 42, suggesting its applicability as a raw material for sunscreen formulations in the cosmetic industry.

Recent developments in tuning the efficacy of different types of sunscreens.

Due to recent global warming threats, the changes in the atmosphere have caused significant ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure, primarily emitted by the sun, which creates more awareness of photoprotection. Sunscreen development has been a convenient and crucial approach to photoprotection against ultraviolet radiation. Due to high demand, upgrading the quality of sunscreen products and certifying methods are necessary to guarantee the safety of commercial sunscreen products for use. Sunscreen products should have a satisfactory amount of sun protection factor (SPF), ultraviolet A protection factor, as well as the photostability of the sunscreens for them to be considered effective and safe for use. A rigorous study on the effectiveness of the sunscreen components and their safety standards is essential for the productive use and further improvement of the available sunscreen materials. This article summarizes the effects and issues, protective measures of sunscreen usage, and its components, mainly ultraviolet filters.

Synergy of modified lignin and p-coumaric acid for improving the function of sun-protection in sunscreen

Lignin is a potential natural sunlight protector because its benzene derivative structure can absorb UV rays. Pure lignin is not good enough for sunblock because lignin is not fully dispersed in cream, and the range of absorbed UV rays is not broad. In this work, lignin was modified with polybutyl acrylate (PBA) and self-assembled into microspheres (L-PBA-NPs) to enhance its compatibility in cream, and it was blended with p-coumaric acid (CA) to extend its light absorbance. The hydrophobicity of grafted PBA on lignin and the microsphere of the modified lignin provided an ability to disperse in oily pure cream. To improve the sun protection factor (SPF) of the blended lignin-based sunscreen, CA with different UV absorbing ability was mixed inside the modified lignin to form CA@L-PBA-NPs. When CA and L-PBA-NPs (1:1) were added in cream with 5%, the SPF of the blended lignin sunscreen reached 18.8. After irradiation of the CA@L-PBA-NPs sunscreen under UV for 3 h, the SPF of the blended lignin-based sunscreen increased slightly because of more conjugated structures produced in lignin. The CA@L-PBA-NPs in sunscreens have great potential as a green ingredient to substitute for the small-molecule sunscreen active ingredients in commercial sunscreen products.

Natural products and extracts from plants as natural UV filters for sunscreens: A review.

Although solar exposure is necessary for human health, phototoxicology induced by excessive UVB and UVA radiation, which involves sunburns, skin aging and even tumorigenesis, has been widely researched. Sunscreen is one of the most important ways to protect skin from UV phototoxic damage. As well as inorganic and organic UV filters, some natural products or plant extractswith aromatic rings in their structures, such as flavonoids or polyphenols, can absorb UV to reduce sunburn, acting as a natural UV filter; they also show antioxidant or/and anti-inflammatory activity. This could explain why, although there are no officially approval natural commercial sun-filters, more and more commercial sunscreen products containing plant extracts are available on the market. Here we summarize articles focusing on natural UV filters from plant published in the last 6 years, selecting the most significant data in order to better understand the photoprotective activity of natural products and extracts from plants, including their major constituents and main biological effects, methods for evaluating UV radiation resistance, anti-UV radiation experimental models and anti-UV radiation mechanisms.

Cu-Enhanced Efficient Förster Resonance Energy Transfer in PBSA Sunscreen-Associated Ternary Cu x Cd1-x S Quantum Dots.

Quantum dots (QDs) are semiconducting nanocrystals that exhibit size- and composition-dependent optical and electronic properties. Recently, Cu-based II–VI ternary CuxCd1–xS (CCS) QDs have emerged as a promising class of QDs as compared to their binary counterparts (CuS and CdS). Herein, a series of ternary CCS QDs are synthesized by changing the molar concentration of Cu2+ ions only keeping the 1:1 ratio of the stoichiometric mixture of Cd2+ and S2–. These CCS QDs are attached to 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (PBSA), an eminent UV-B filter widely used in many commercial sunscreen products to avoid skin erythema and DNA mutagenic photolesions. The photoinduced Förster resonance energy transfer (FRET) is investigated from PBSA to CCS QDs as a function of Cu concentration in CCS QDs using the steady-state photoluminescence and time-resolved photoluminescence measurements. A 2-fold increase in the magnitude of non-radiative energy transfer rate (KT(r)) is observed as the molar concentration of Cu in CCS QDs increases from 2 to 10 mM. Our findings suggest that in PBSA-CCS QD dyads, the FRET occurrence from PBSA to QDs is dictated by the dynamic mode of photoluminescence (PL) quenching. The bimolecular PL quenching rate constants (kq) estimated by Stern–Volmer’s plots for PBSA-CCS QD dyads are of the order of 1010 M–1 s–1, which signifies that in the PBSA-CCS QD dyad FRET system, the process of PL quenching is entirely diffusion-controlled.

Impact of Solvent Type on Total Phenol and Flavonoid Content and Sun Protection Factor of Crude Cashew Nutshell Liquid

Cashew nutshell liquid (CNSL) is a cheap source of natural phenolic compounds that have numerous applications. These phenolic compounds have chemical structures with chromophores similar to those found in synthetic chemical UV-filters, which are present in commercial sunscreen products (SSPs). Thus, this study investigated the impact of solvents on the yield, total phenol content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), and the sun protection factor (SPF) of crude CNSL. The percent yield ranged from (30.4 ± 0.7% to 49.3 ± 3.2%); hexane recorded the lowest yield, while ethanol recorded the highest. Acetone (101.2 ± 2.5 mg GA/g), methanol (99.5 ± 0.10), and chloroform (95.4 ± 3.7 mg GAE/g), recorded the highest TPC respectively, while hexane (33.3 ± 0.7 mg QE/g) recorded the highest TFC. The SPFs ranged from (22.1 ± 1.1 to 16.4 ± 0.8), chloroform (22.1 ± 1.1), acetone (21.5 ± 1.1), and methanol (19.3 ± 1.0) again recorded the highest values respectively, while hexane (16.4 ± 0.8) recorded the lowest. Our results revealed that extracting solvents has a significant impact on the yield and SPF of CNSL. Therefore, we propose that acetone, chloroform, and methanol, either alone or as mixtures, could be the best solvents for extracting CNSL with a good TPC and SPF.

Snail slime-based gold nanoparticles: An interesting potential ingredient in cosmetics as an antioxidant, sunscreen, and tyrosinase inhibitor

Due to their properties, snail slime-based products have been appreciated and used worldwide. So, as an alternative and innovative use of snail slime, it was adopted to induce gold nanoparticles' formation, conferring them interesting properties. By a simple, one-pot, and eco-friendly approach, 14±6nm wide hybrid gold nanoparticles, having an inorganic metallic core decorated by the slime's main components, were obtained. Among their several properties, their antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibition activity were investigated through the DPPH and ABTS and the tyrosinase assays, respectively. After assessing their non-cytotoxicity in our previous work, the results revealed positive responses, enabling their use as a potential novel multifunctional ingredient in cosmetics. Interestingly, the gold nanoparticle photostability, investigated by means of a solar simulator lamp, suggests using them in commercial cosmetic sunscreen products as a potential alternative to the commonly used inorganic sunscreen ingredients. The theoretical Sun Protection Factor was evaluated, obtaining values in the range 0-12. The proposed environmentally friendly and cost-effective protocol for nanoparticle synthesis, following the principles of Green Chemistry, opens a hugely attractive space toward the study of snail slime-based gold nanoparticles as a potential multipurpose platform in cosmetics.

Effectiveness of Frangipani Leaf Extract (Plumeria alba Linn.) as a UV Filter

UV filters are necessary since UV rays are harmful to human skin. UV filter compounds in commercial sunscreen products can cause adverse effects. Thus, natural UV filters containing flavonoids, e.g. Frangipani (Plumeria alba Linn.) leaves, are needed. This research examined the use of flavonoids from P. alba leaf as a UV filter with in vitro and in vivo. Maceration was performed with 70% ethyl alco-hol and liquid-liquid extraction for flavonoid purification. Parameters tested were total flavonoid compounds, SPF value, and clinical symptoms of the melanogenesis inhibition scoring. The purification result was 43.6%. The flavonoid concentration in pure extract (64.4 mg QE /g) was higher than crude extract (57.6 mg QE/g). The highest SPF value (33.88) was observed in pure extract at 1400 mg/mL, while the same concentration of crude extract resulted in a lower SPF value (33.06). Pearson correlation analysis (0.536) indicated a di-rectly proportional relationship between SPF value and extract concentration. In vivo analysis was performed by scoring between 0-4 following the severity of erythema. After 21 days of sunlight exposure, the worst erythema was found in the negative control group (score 1.292). The best result was found in the group treated with pure extract 1400 mg/ml (score 0.542).

Benzophenone Accumulates over Time from the Degradation of Octocrylene in Commercial Sunscreen Products

Benzophenone is a mutagen, carcinogen, and endocrine disruptor. Its presence in food products or food packaging is banned in the United States. Under California Proposition 65, there is no safe harbor for benzophenone in any personal care products, including sunscreens, anti-aging creams, and moisturizers. The purpose of this study was to determine (1) if benzophenone was present in a wide variety of commercial sun protection factor (SPF)/sunscreen products, (2) whether benzophenone concentration in the product increased over time, and (3) if the degradation of octocrylene was the likely source for benzophenone contamination. Benzophenone concentration was assayed in nine commercial sunscreen products from the European Union and eight from the United States (in triplicate), including two single ingredient sources of octocrylene. These same SPF items were subjected to the United States Food and Drug Administration (U.S. FDA)-accelerated stability aging protocol for 6 weeks. Benzophenone was measured in the accelerated-aged products. Sixteen octocrylene-containing product lines that were recently purchased had an average concentration of 39 mg/kg benzophenone, ranging from 6 mg/kg to 186 mg/kg. Benzophenone was not detectable in the product that did not contain octocrylene. After subjecting the 17 products to the U.S. FDA-accelerated stability method, the 16 octocrylene-containing products had an average concentration of 75 mg/kg, ranging from 9.8 mg/kg to 435 mg/kg. Benzophenone was not detectable in the product that did not contain octocrylene. Benzophenone was detected in the pure octocrylene manufactured ingredient. Octocrylene generates benzophenone through a retro-aldol condensation. In vivo, up to 70% of the benzophenone in these sunscreen products may be absorbed through the skin. U.S. FDA has established a zero tolerance for benzophenone as a food additive. In the United States, there were 2999 SPF products containing octocrylene in 2019. The safety of octocrylene as a benzophenone generator in SPF or any consumer products should be expeditiously reviewed by regulatory agencies.

UV-Protection Performance of Calophyllum inophyllum Seed Extracts: A Natural Ultraviolet Screening Agent

Demand for sunscreen products has been rising in recent years due to increasing cases of skin damage caused byultraviolet radiation (UVR). Recent studies have proved that some materials in commercial sunscreen products are harmful to the marine ecosystem. Therefore, the development of a photoprotective and environmentally friendly screening agent has been a leading direction for the cosmetic industry. Calophyllum inophyllum is a seaside plant found in the Pacific Rim, regarded as a potential source of biodiesel feedstock given the high oil content of its seeds. Due to the harsh environment of its natural habitat, C. inophyllum has developed UV-absorbing secondary metabolites, which are natural sources for screening agents. In this study, samples of seed extracts of C. inophyllum were subjected to in vitro UV, Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, and cytotoxicity analysis; all the samples extracted by solvents of various polarities showed different chemical compositions by FTIR spectroscopy and levels of cytotoxicity. The n-hexane seed extract showed the highest UVA and UVB absorption efficiencies. In the in vitro cytotoxicity test on human skin fibroblast cells, seed oil of C. inophyllum demonstrated low cytotoxicity. Results have shown that seed extracts of C. inophyllum can be an ideal material for a natural high-efficiency screening agent.

Identification of avobenzone by-products formed by various disinfectants in different types of swimming pool waters

The increased use of sunscreens and other cosmetics containing UV filters causes human and environmental burden. Avobenzone is a widely used UV filter. In its pure form it is known to undergo several transformations including photo-isomerisation, photodegradation, and halogenation. Over 60 disinfection by-products were identified as transformation products of avobenzone in different disinfection reactions of chlorination and bromination in fresh and seawater. Two occasional samples of swimming pool water demonstrated the presence of some of these by-products at noticeable levels as judged by GC-MS peak areas. Although the toxicity of the majority of these products remain unknown, chlorinated phenols and acetophenones are known to be rather toxic. Aquatic bromination of avobenzone resulted in the identification of 33 disinfection by-products (DBPs). Many of them contain bromine in the molecular structure. Addition of copper salt slightly decreases conversion rate simultaneously increasing the levels of major brominated products.Photostability of 3 commercial sunscreen products (solar protection factor 30) containing avobenzone was studied under different experimental conditions including UVA/UVB, UVC photostimulation and chlorination. The commercial sunscreen products have completely different enhancing and inhibitory effect on avobenzone degradation under UVC light. The complex composition of commercial products caused also a protective shield in case of chlorinated solutions of commercial formulations exposed to chlorine and UVA/UVB light at the same time.

Multicenter methodology comparison of the FDA and ISO standard for measurement of in vitro UVA protection of sunscreen products

In vitro standard methods are available and accepted worldwide to assess UVA protection of sunscreen products. Though, harmonisation of methods has made progress in the last decade, still two differing methods - one by FDA the other by ISO - are in use. In a multicentre study including 9 centres in Germany, 4 different commercial sunscreen products were assessed using both methods to discover their similarities and differences. UVA protection factor and Critical Wavelength were detected at various substrate type (sandblasted versus moulded PMMA plates), at different surface roughness of the plates as well as at different product application dose using two different irradiation spectra.Results: The strongest influence on UVA protection factor results from the surface roughness of the plates. Depending on the roughness (accepted range of 2 to 7 μm in the FDA method) a variability in the UVA protection factor of up to 25% was observed, while the much narrower definition of plate roughness by ISO (4.5 to 5.2 μm) had no relevant influence on the test results. Sandblasted plates in our assessment led to higher UVA protection factors and produced less scattered results compared to moulded plates. These differences were not pronounced. Application dose and spectra of the irradiation source were of negligible influence on UVA protection factor results for the investigated UV-filter combinations. The UVA protection factor which is the endpoint of the ISO method was found to be a parameter with a high potential to differentiate among different test products. The endpoint of the FDA method - the Critical Wavelength - was found to be an unambitious endpoint. Insensitivity to all described modifications of the method was observed. All investigated products performed similar and passed the Critical Wavelength criteria independent of method and parameters.

In Vivo Human Skin Penetration Study of Sunscreens by Confocal Raman Spectroscopy.

This research work mainly deals with the application of confocal Raman spectroscopic technique to study in vivo human skin penetration of sunscreen products, as there are a lot of controversies associated with their skin penetration. Healthy human volunteers were tested for penetration of two commercial sunscreen products into their volar forearm skin for a period of 2h. Measurements were taken before and after application of these sunscreen products. All the confocal Raman spectra were pre-processed and then subjected to multivariate two-dimensional principal component analysis and classical least squares analysis to determine the skin penetration of these sunscreens in comparison to the "sunscreen product spectrum" which was considered as the control. Score plots of principal component analysis of confocal Raman spectra indicated clear separation between the spectra before and after application of sunscreen products. Loading plots showed the maximum differences in the spectral region from 1590 to 1626cm-1 where the characteristic peak of the pure sunscreen products was observed. Classical least squares analysis has shown a significant penetration to a depth of 10μm in the volar forearm skin of healthy human volunteers for both these sunscreen products. The results confirm that the penetration of these tested sunscreen products was restricted to stratum corneum and also prove that confocal Raman spectroscopy is a simple, fast, nondestructive, and noninvasive semi-quantitative analytical technique for these studies.

Size characterization of metal oxide nanoparticles in commercial sunscreen products

There is an increase in the usage of engineered metal oxide (TiO2 and ZnO) nanoparticles in commercial sunscreens due to their pleasing esthetics and greater sun protection efficiency. A number of studies have been done concerning the safety of nanoparticles in sunscreen products. In order to do the safety assessment, it is pertinent to develop novel analytical techniques to analyze these nanoparticles in commercial sunscreens. This study is focused on developing analytical techniques that can efficiently determine particle size of metal oxides present in the commercial sunscreens. To isolate the mineral UV filters from the organic matrices, specific procedures such as solvent extraction were identified. In addition, several solvents (hexane, chloroform, dichloromethane, and tetrahydrofuran) have been investigated. The solvent extraction using tetrahydrofuran worked well for all the samples investigated. The isolated nanoparticles were characterized by using several different techniques such as transmission electron microscopy, scanning electron microscopy, dynamic light scattering, differential centrifugal sedimentation, and x-ray diffraction. Elemental analysis mapping studies were performed to obtain individual chemical and morphological identities of the nanoparticles. Results from the electron microscopy techniques were compared against the bulk particle sizing techniques. All of the sunscreen products tested in this study were found to contain nanosized (≤100 nm) metal oxide particles with varied shapes and aspect ratios, and four among the 11 products were showed to have anatase TiO2.

A Perspective on the Ultrafast Photochemistry of Solution-Phase Sunscreen Molecules

Sunscreens are one of the most common ways of providing on-demand additional photoprotection to the skin. Ultrafast transient absorption spectroscopy has recently proven to be an invaluable tool in understanding how the components of commercial sunscreen products display efficient photoprotection. Important examples of how this technique has unravelled the photodynamics of common components are given in this Perspective, and some of the remaining unanswered questions are discussed.

Ultrafast photophysical studies of a multicomponent sunscreen: Oxybenzone–titanium dioxide mixtures

Recent studies of the sunscreen constituent oxybenzone have suggested that the dominant mechanism underlying the efficient photoprotection it offers relies on an initial ultrafast enol→keto tautomerisation, followed by nonadiabatic transfer to the ground electronic state. Subsequent collisions with the solvent bath then reform the original enol-tautomer. Utilising femtosecond transient electronic absorption spectroscopy we explore the dissipation of electronic excitation energy in oxybenzone in the presence of titanium dioxide, a widely used, and complementary sunscreen component. We find the relaxation dynamics of this popular organic filter are unaltered by the presence of this favoured inorganic scatterer and the overall dynamics can be described by the additive contribution of the individual constituents. The combination of the two components provides broadband photoprotective properties justifying the widely used organic filter and inorganic scatterer mixtures in commercial sunscreen products.

A weight-of-evidence approach to identify nanomaterials in consumer products: a case study of nanoparticles in commercial sunscreens.

Nanoscale ingredients in commercial products represent a point of emerging environmental concern due to recent findings that correlate toxicity with small particle size. A weight-of-evidence (WOE) approach based upon multiple lines of evidence (LOE) is developed here to assess nanomaterials as they exist in consumer product formulations, providing a qualitative assessment regarding the presence of nanomaterials, along with a baseline estimate of nanoparticle concentration if nanomaterials do exist. Electron microscopy, analytical separations, and X-ray detection methods were used to identify and characterize nanomaterials in sunscreen formulations. The WOE/LOE approach as applied to four commercial sunscreen products indicated that all four contained at least 10% dispersed primary particles having at least one dimension <100 nm in size. Analytical analyses confirmed that these constituents were comprised of zinc oxide (ZnO) or titanium dioxide (TiO2). The screening approaches developed herein offer a streamlined, facile means to identify potentially hazardous nanomaterial constituents with minimal abrasive processing of the raw material.

Determining ultraviolet absorbents in sunscreen products by combining direct injection with micelle collapse on-line preconcentration capillary electrophoresis

The on-line preconcentration technique of analyte focusing by micelle collapse-micellar electrokinetic chromatography (AFMC-MEKC) was combined with direct injection without extraction to determine ultraviolet absorbents in sunscreen products. The stacking mechanism is based on the transport, release, and accumulation of analytes bound to micelle carriers that are collapsed into the micelle dilution zone. The following optimized conditions were determined: the running buffer was 10mM Tris buffer (pH 9.5) containing 60mM SDS, 7mM γ-CD and 20% ethanol; the SDS concentration was required to be slightly above the critical micelle concentration (cmc) value (7.4mM) in the sample matrix, which allowed the micelle dilution zone to form when voltage was applied; and finally, the sample was prepared in 100mM Tris buffer (pH 9.0) containing 7.5mM SDS and 20% (v/v) ethanol to provide sufficient resolution and to improve the sensitivity. Samples were injected at 0.5psi for 40s, and the separation voltage was set at 15kV for first 15min and then increased to 23kV to decrease the analysis time. The detection sensitivity for ultraviolet absorbents was enhanced by approximately 41-fold using AFMC-MEKC compared to conventional MEKC. The limit of detection (S/N=3) was 98nM for benzophenone-2 and benzophenone-4. The correlation of the regression curve was greater than 0.995. The relative error and relative standard deviation were lower than 9.94% with high precision and accuracy. The recoveries of nine ultraviolet absorbents in a homemade emulsion were between 95.08% and 104.57%. After optimization and validation, this AFMC-MEKC method combined with direct injection is considered to be established and successfully applicable to commercial sunscreen products.

Interaction of mineral salts with the skin: a literature survey

There is growing scientific evidence that the health, well-being and the attractiveness of the skin are strongly influenced by nutrition. Consumers recognize this and have supported the creation of a global cosmeceuticals market estimated in 2010 at $27.2 billion. Early in 2011, the US Department of Health and Human Services and Department of Agriculture issued the Dietary Guidelines for Americans, 2010. Twelve vitamins and nine minerals were recognized as essential. The minerals include calcium, copper, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, selenium, zinc, potassium and sodium. Although the topical benefits of several minerals such as zinc, magnesium and iron are recognized and, in some cases, approved by the FDA, the topical benefits of the others to the skin are largely unexplored and unexploited. This review attempts to summarize what has been published in the literature on the interactions of the eight of the nine essential elements with the skin.

Influence of certain ingredients on the SPF determined in vivo

When determined in vitro, the SPF of certain commercial sunscreen products can be lower than the SPF indicated on the label. The study of the composition of this type of product enabled us to note that the majority contained substances reputed to have anti-inflammatory properties. This effect is shown by inhibiting the erythema, without protecting the skin, which constitutes a serious public health problem. The anti-inflammatory effects of αbisabolol-, allantoin- and 18-β-glycyrrhetinic acid-based emulsions, as well as commercial sun products containing any one of these molecules, have been tested with phorbol myristate acetate on mice. The effectiveness of these sunscreens products is quantified using two indicators: SPF (sun protection factor) and PF-UVA (protection factor-UVA) by in vitro method. We were thus able to show that certain sun products have an anti-inflammatory effect, which in turn causes the SPF value shown on the product to be overestimated, indeed sometimes by considerably large margins.