Collection Of Clothing Research Articles

A biografia cultural de uma camisa: a memória trajada de Antoninha Berchon Sampaio

O artigo busca destacar uma peça de vestuário do acervo que pertenceu à Sra. Antoninha Berchon Sampaio, uma figura relevante na sociedade de elite do Rio Grande do Sul. Esta peça e todas as outras que compuseram o acervo, serviram de aporte para o projeto “Memória Trajada”, que se propôs a pesquisar o traje como objeto cultural a partir dos pressupostos de Prown (1982), Andrade (2006; 2008) e Gies (2008). O objetivo geral do estudo foi pesquisar uma camisa de Antoninha Berchon, abordando questões relacionadas aos arquivos pessoais (ARTIÈRES, 1998; BELLOTO, 2006; VIDAL, 2007; CUNHA, 2008), interligando estes a temas que tratam da moda e seus elos com a memória e a cultura material. Justifica-se a escolha de tal pesquisa por entender as diversas possibilidades metodológicas da roupa como um artefato cultural e da circulação do traje por meio de diferentes sujeitos em seus corpos, imagens e espaços. A metodologia utilizada nesta pesquisa teve como base o estudo de Andrade (2006; 2008) sobre artefatos têxteis, porém adaptado ao acervo analisado. Almejou-se a construção de uma tessitura interdisciplinar, na qual se entrelaçaram diversos campos do saber e estes são fundamentais para entender as mensagens que os artefatos contam. Assim sendo, pode-se afirmar a importância da relação da roupa como objeto que carrega e narra memórias.

SOCIO-PHILOSOPHICAL “DRAMATURGY” FASHION SHOWS

Shows of new collections of clothes have long been not only an integral partof the fashion industry, but also important socio-cultural events - as artistic acts with a specific social orientation. These acts always have signs of performativity and are implemented in a suitably organized space. This allows them to be seen as theatrical performances: with the stage, actors, directing, set design and, of course, with the audience. Communications that arise within these performances often go beyond them, and influence various cultural processes and the formation of specific social relations. Considering the ability of such events to reflect some features of modern society and, at the same time, influence their formation, the studies of this phenomenon within the framework of the subject of social philosophy, which studies the essence and forms of social reality, are relevant.The purpose of this study is a socio-philosophical analysis of theatricality offashion shows in the context of sociocommunicative manifestations of culture and social temporality. The methodological strategy for achieving this purpose is the concept of theatricality of the sociocommunicative manifestations of culture. This concept implies an understanding that theatricality arises only when there is an act of communication between people (that is, when there is an “actor” and a “public”).Conversely, communicative acts acquire the features of theatricality whenever there is a need to improve the effectiveness of communication. This approach (which is the scientific novelty of the research) allowed notonly to establish that theatricality was always inherent in the fashion collections, but also to reveal the tendencies to the emergence of new forms of presentation.The main objectives of such shows are: improving the efficiency of communication between designers and viewers, as potential consumers of the products offered; expansion of the communicative space of the fashion industry, which is caused not only by commercial considerations, but by understanding the role of fashion in socio-cultural processes.Socio-philosophical understanding of the theatricality of fashion shows, asseparate events/performances, show a tendency to implement in them a social theme with the display of current issues that arise before modern society. Comparison of the dynamics of seasonal changes in fashion with the dynamics of changes in society gives reason to talk about the temporality of “dramaturgy” in the “theaters” of fashion and social being.

The Instagrammability of the Runway: Architecture, Scenography, and the Spatial Turn in Fashion Communications

From minimalist installation to monumental set design, runway scenography is now central to the grammar of fashion communications. Often used to symbolize the power of the brand or to reaffirm its DNA, the strategic choices of setting, space, and set design are an integral part of the promotion of designer fashion. Today’s runway show does not simply present a collection of clothes against a background set design; it uses scenography more instrumentally as the setting for brands and digital influencers to capture images of fashion for followers of online social media. Architectural paradigms now feed into the symbolic discourse of branded fashion and influence the way in which collections are spectacularized for different audiences. This article analyses the strategic use of runway scenography as a key part of contemporary branded communications, exploring specifically how the creative synergies between fashion and architecture are being reshaped by the impact of digital social media, in particular by Instagram.

ХУДОЖНЬО-КОМПОЗИЦІЙНІ ХАРАКТЕРИСТИКИ МОДЕЛЕЙ КОЛЕКЦІЇ ЖІНОЧОГО ОДЯГУ В СТИЛІ МІЛІТАРІ

Study of the artistic design features of the models of the creative collection of modern women's clothing using military style. Development of compositional and harmonious and constructive-technological solutions for products of the author's collection. To achieve this goal, a system-structural, morphological analysis, a compositional-constructive method of research are applied. Sketches are made using the Xara X graphical editor. The evolution of the form, color combinations and the structure of the decoration of products in military style has been studied. Artistic and compositional and structural features of the collection of modern women's clothing in military style, taking into account modern technologies and materials, are defined and characterized. The structural, texture and plastic characteristics of the costume in the military style are analyzed, the characteristics characteristic of the style are highlighted and introduced into the articles of the collection.

АНТРОПОМЕТРИЧНІ ТИПОЛОГІЇ СПОЖИВАЧІВ В ДИЗАЙНІ СУЧАСНОГО ОДЯГУ

Explore the existing anthropometric classifications of women's figures from the point of view of the clothes’ design for industrial production. To reveal the methodological significance of anthropometric classifications of consumer figures in the development of structural construction and content of clothing collections of industrial production. For the purpose of structuring consumer typology as the basis for designing industrial production clothing were used following methods: analytical-typological, comparative-typological, comparative-historical and comparative methods. In the article are analyzed the existing anthropometric typologies of female figures in the context of generally accepted sewing industry classifications, as well as modern trends in the creation of harmonic images with using visual illusions. Also in the article are determined the basic types of women’s body forms, which are the most frequently meet. Accordingly, it is advisable to take into account these types of figures in the design of women's clothing of industrial manufacture. The scientific novelty consists in systematizing modern typologies of the body shape of women for the design of clothing with their subsequent use in the process of designing an industrial collection of modern women's clothing. The systematized information is given about the classification of the modern typology of female figures for the design of assortment collections of promising women's clothing. The presented researches reveal ways of development and active use of methods of visual illusions for the development of women's clothing of industrial production.

History is Always in Fashion: The Practice of Artifact-based Dress History in the Academic Collection

Historic textile and clothing collections based in academic settings have a particularly unique characteristic when compared to museum collections, in that they welcome hands-on work by students and faculty. The academic collection provides a springboard toward new knowledge, looking at the past in order to understand the future. Our aim is to share how we value our collection, not as a static repository but as a fluid and active space of discovery. The University of Delaware Fashion and Apparel Studies Historic Costume and Textiles Collection (HCTC) as a repository of clothing and accessories from the fourteenth century to present day, is a treasure trove of opportunity for the practice of artifact-based dress history by the active engagement of collection, conservation, documentation, exhibition, and interpretation. The researchers conducted a contextual review of creative artifacts and research projects initiating within the HCTC. The case vignettes outlined connect HCTC artifacts through research and classroom projects. The researchers adopted the format of case vignettes from the health sciences, applying the format to teaching and research scenarios. The “patient” within these cases is the artifact of inquiry. The artifacts are the result of practice, yet, also inspire further iteration. Clothing and appearance (i.e. dress) are forms of nonverbal communication. Varying social, national, ethnic and gender groups project their identities through their dress. Clothes are made from textiles, and many of the important textile traditions are made to be displayed on the body. When examined from both historical and contemporary perspectives, as well as through analysis of cultural differences, clothing and appearance contribute to our understanding of the world. How this might be taught and/or applied to creative research is the focus of this article.

ХУДОЖНЬО-КОМПОЗИЦІЙНІ ОЗНАКИ ЖІНОЧОГО КОСТЮМУ 1940-Х РР. ЯК ТВОРЧЕ ДЖЕРЕЛО РОЗРОБКИ СУЧАСНОЇ КОЛЕКЦІЇ ОДЯГУ

Determination of the peculiarities of the shape, structure and color of a women's costume of the 40's of the twentieth century. for designing collections of modern women's clothing. The methodological basis of the article form a comparative-historical method, which allowed to reveal the dynamics of the development of artistic and constructive solutions of silhouettes; a method of figurative and stylistic analysis in the study of artistic compositional features of women's costume; structural-functional method of analysis in determining the recommendations for designing a collection of women's clothing in costume stylistics of the 40's of the twentieth century.

The SkinBase Project: Providing 3D Virtual Access to Indigenous Skin Clothing Collections from the Circumpolar Area

In 2014, the National Museum of Denmark (NMD), in conjunction with the Greenland National Museum and Archives (Nunatta Katersugaasivia Allagaateqarfialu [NKA]), as well as the Museum of Cultural History, Oslo, launched the website Skin Clothing Online. The site presents the NMD’s total collection of 2,170 historic skin clothing items, dating from circa 1830 to 1950, from the circumpolar area. The clothing can be studied in minute detail due to high-resolution photos; 100 complete suits were photographed from all sides. Furthermore, 107 items of clothing were measured by means of 3D technology, which can be used to draw precise two-dimensional patterns. The documentation is made accessible to the public through a website, in compliance with creative commons licenses: CC-BY-SA for the photos and CC-BY-SA-NC for the patterns. The website uses content from the database SkinBase. Since 2017 parts of the NKA’s collection of archeological skin clothing from Qilakitsoq (circa 1475 AD), as well as historical garments and contemporary fashions, have also been made accessible, in keeping with the same copyright rules for photos. The NKA staff entered the items into the database without difficulty using a Virtual Private Connection (VPN). The Danish and Greenlandic national museums encourage international partners to contribute items to the website. The aim is to create a collaborative open forum for information and research with easy access for everybody to unique, fragile pieces of circumpolar cultural heritage. With clothing from Arctic peoples and clothing used on expeditions to Antarctica, the Polar Museum in Cambridge will be the next museum to contribute to the website.

Features of using of ethno sources in the design of modern clothing collections

Features of using of ethno sources in the design of modern clothing collections

ДИЗАЙН-ПРОЕКТУВАННЯ КОЛЕКЦІЇ ЖІНОЧОГО ОДЯГУ З ВИКОРИСТАННЯМ ПЕРФОРАЦІЇ

Determination of features design features of the creative collection of women’s clothing using decorative finishes – perforations. The complex approach of the system-structural method and the morphological analysis of the initial object of the investigation with its subsequent synthesis on the basis of the obtained data is applied. The analysis of the design of clothing collections with various types of modern finishes is carried out, collections of modern Ukrainian and foreign designers are analyzed with the purpose of determining modern methods of production of perforation in clothes and modern fashion trends. The drawings for perforation in clothes and ways of its combination with other types of decoration of the clothing surface are considered. A classification of the types of perforations and methods of its production has been developed, on the basis of which an actual collection of women's clothing with manual perforation has been developed.

ОСОБЛИВОСТІ ФОРМОУТВОРЕННЯ ГЛАМУРНОГО КОСТЮМА 1930–1950-х РОКІВ

To analyze the costumes of Hollywood actresses in the period 1930 – 1950's, which became the basis for the formation of typical structures of a glamor costume in the XX century; to establish the peculiarities of their formation and to determine their place in the structure of a fashionable costume of the beginning of the XXI century. The stylistic and associative methods of studying the artistic compositional features of the glamorous outfit of actresses as a creative source in contemporary design practice have been used, the comparative-historical method and the method of system-comparative analysis have been applied, which allowed to carry out the general typology of structures of a glamor suit of a certain period and to establish the peculiarities of its formation. The research shows how in 1930 – 1950's designers of American film studios developed stylistics of a glamorous suit, focusing on the individual characteristics of the body of the structure and appearance of the actresses, their role in the film industry. The results obtained concerning the structures of costumes of actresses and the peculiarities of their formation make it possible to characterize the artistic and compositional features of a glamorous costume and to show that they became the basis for the formation of typical images, and eventually – the typological structures of a glamor style suit, which before that time remain relevant and practically unchanged in the design of promising forms of clothing in stylistics of glamor. The peculiarities of the formation of a glamor suit in a certain period are established; outlined the formative searches of the designers of the cinema industry in the development of stylistics of glamor, which was reflected, first of all, in the formation of typical costume structures, its silhouette forms, constructive-compositional solution, the application of materials and their decorating; the basic means of embodiment of typical figurative-stylistic and formal-compositional signs of style of glamor in modern design practice are established. The practical significance of the work lies in the fact that the main results of the study may be useful for the development and production of clothing collections in the style of glamor; Provide capacious information on figurative-stylistic and formally-constructive characteristics of the typical glamor style of costume structures, silhouette forms and methods of shaping in general. The results can be used in the professional training of designers in order to improve the quality of design and art solutions in the development of collections of fashionable clothing that meet the aesthetic demands of contemporaries.

FASHION TRENDS IN MOLDOVA – THROUGH THE PRISM OF THE CREATIVITY OF YOUNG DESIGNERS

The objective of this study is to review and systematize the artistic and stylistic features of the collections of students of the «Fashion Design» specialty of the Faculty of Fine Arts and Design of Ion Creangă State Pedagogical University in the context of expanding the ethno cultural space and preserving the folk traditional culture of Moldova. The methods of comparative analysis, systematic approach, the critical analysis of publications on selected topics, analytical processing and systematization of the collected information base of the study with photo-illustrative material are used in the paper. The collections of young Moldavian designers, the graduates of Ion Creangă State Pedagogical University in Chisinau, have been analyzed; conceptual trends in the modern art of design and fashion in the country, which are based on the individual creative interpretation by young designers of artistic images, have been researched. The significance of the incorporation of folk motives and elements of the culture of Moldova in the work of designers is highlighted. Thus, there is an active interrelation between the traditionalism and modernity, authenticity and global trends; every day, historical, stage/festive and popular Moldavian costume in modern trends in the clothing design of the Republic of Moldova. It was determined that, in addition to the ethno-collections, collections in vintage and dandy styles are also relevant, as well as the embodiment of story-lines and characters from fairy tales, myths, and legends of Moldova when creating collections. It is shown that the Moldavian fashion industry, as the art of fashion design, is at the sufficiently high level and is actively developing, giving preference to the revival of the cultural heritage of the country. The current trends in the development of the fashion market in the Republic of Moldova are determined on the basis of the analysis of creative clothing collections by young designers, graduates of the Faculty of Fine Arts and Design of «Ion Creangă» State Pedagogical University. The research results contribute to creating a more holistic picture of the priorities in modern clothes design in Moldova. In practice these studies can be used in the process of teaching the disciplines of the artistic and aesthetic cycle, mainly in modeling/designing costumes, as well as enriching the professional experience of young designers.

A Surrealist Writer’s Diary of a Twenty-One-Month Anthropological Expedition

A Surrealist Writer’s Diary of a Twenty-One-Month Anthropological Expedition

Sistem Informasi Penjualan pada Karo Rumah Mode di Simalingkar berbasis Web

This study discusses the web-based sales information system at the Rumah Mode Karo store which has a collection of different men's and women's clothing products for sale. In addition to selling clothing collections, karo fashion houses also sell Tupperware. Karo Rumah Mode currently still sells directly and does not have a sales information system so that it causes problems such as recording the Karo Rumah Mode sales transaction data still manually, the store is difficult to control all products that have been sold and those that have not been sold, nor is the store know how much stock is still available for each type of product, who receives money on the sale of a product is also not well-documented and clear. Then from the problems that arise the proposed solution to overcome this problem is to build a sales information system that uses the PHP programming language and MYSQL as the database. The goal is a web-based information system that is built can make sales both online and directly in the store and facilitate users in sales transactions, report inventory and receipt of money against sales transactions are well-documented and clear. The method used in this study is literature study and interviews / case studies at fashion house karo stores.

ДИЗАЙН-ПРОЕКТУВАННЯ КОЛЕКЦІЇ ЖІНОЧОГО ОДЯГУ З ВИКОРИСТАННЯМ ТЕХНІКИ ПЕЧВОРК

Development of an up-to-date collection of women's clothing with the use of pechwork technique based on the transformation of a creative source - the Peruvian national costume. Research methods were used: analytical, objective observation and structural analysis. The basis for the study was the scientific work of experts in the field of design of clothing and findings of experts in the field of fashion. The analysis of the manufacturing process of products in the technology of the pitchfork allowed to develop a classification of types and techniques of pectin and to develop an up-to-date collection of women's clothing using this technology of clothing modeling. On the basis of theoretical studies, the types of pechorop technique are systematized and the main principles of its application in the design of new clothing collections are proposed. Artistic-design, constructive-technological decisions of models with the use of the pechora technique were developed, a collection of women's clothing was made.

ДОСЛІДЖЕННЯ ФОРМИ, СТРУКТУРИ ТА КОЛОРИТУ КОСТЮМА 50-Х РОКІВ XX СТОЛІТТЯ З МЕТОЮ РОЗРОБКИ КОЛЕКЦІЇ ЖІНОЧОГО ОДЯГУ

Investigation of the tectonic structure and artistic-compositional features of the stylistics and forms of the costume of the 50's of XX century, to introduce the results of analysis in the design process of a modern collection of women's clothing. Modern methods of historiographic, literary-analytical, system-structural and morphological analysis were used in the work, as well as studying the opinions of consumers by means of questioning and statistical processing of research results. The relevance of the choice of the research topic and the object of research is analyzed and justified. A series of research methods has been used to solve scientific problems. Based on the research results, a draft of a collection of modern women's clothing. The methods of system-structural analysis of forms, structure and proportional-rhythmic construction of original models of the selected period were used at first for scientific analysis of the stylistic features of the construction of the costume of the 50's of XX century. The leading tectonic characteristics of the costume forms, the features of the artistic and compositional elements in the decoration of clothes, the formation of style and the image of the corresponding historical period are determined and structured. From the scientific point of view, the process of design-designing of modern costume forms has been adjusted. Because of scientific research, it is certain that the original costume forms of the 50's of XX century represent an actual creative source for constructing the process of associative design of modern costume forms, the formation of original ideas and a new aesthetics in the creation of modern women's clothing. Studies of the tectonic structure of the costume of the selected historical period made it possible to create a collection of a female costume with new original forms, types of finishes and stylistic characteristics. The collection was made in the material and was presented at the International competition "Pechersky chestnuts" (Ukraine, KNUTD).

ЗАСТОСУВАННЯ ПРИНЦИПІВ ГАРМОНІЗАЦІЇ ЕЛЕМЕНТІВ УКРАЇНСЬКОГО НАЦІОНАЛЬНОГО КОСТЮМА В ПРОЦЕСІ ПРОЕКТУВАННЯ СУЧАСНОГО ОДЯГУ

The purpose of the study is to create an up-to-date collection of youth women's clothing by means of visual harmonization of the leading artistic and compositional characteristics of the Ukrainian national costume

ДОСЛІДЖЕННЯ ЕТНООСОБЛИВОСТЕЙ УГОРСЬКОГО НАРОДНОГО КОСТЮМА ДЛЯ ПРОЕКТУВАННЯ СУЧАСНОГО ЖІНОЧОГО ОДЯГУ

Analysis of constructive and decorative features of the Hungarian folk costume in the process of designing actual women's collection of clothing for everyday purposes

Stereo Imaging In Fashion Photography

Fashion photographs are generally two-dimensional images showing one side of a three-dimensional model. This paper, however, deals with far less well-known stereoscopic fashion photographs. Stereoscopy is a technique that creates the illusion of a 3-D image. Based on the image collection of Swiss textile and clothes company HANRO, the article analyzes the composition of 3-D pictures by putting them in a broader media-historical context. The archived stereoscopic photographs date back to the 1950s and show a series of women’s fashion. In the same period, Hollywood experienced a 3-D-boom that may have had a technical and aesthetical impact on these photographs. Although fashion is not mediated in moving images in this case study, codes or formal languages of a film are inscribed in the images, as will be shown in the following text. Building on these findings, this paper further discusses the influence of cinematography and other media practices on the fashion industry’s attempt to free its fashion imagery from the confines of a two-dimensional page.

THE EXPERIENCE OF DESIGNING CLOTHES TOGETHER WITH STUDENTS OF TECHNOLOGY DEPARTMENT

Lately, questions of cooperation of educational and creative processes have been revitalized. To form future handicraft teacher's expertise in tailoring, it is necessary to develop not only students' technological skills, but also creativity. Creating a collection of clothes is the process aimed at completing these tasks in the form of a specific product. The article presents the Pskov State University students' experience in fashion collection designing cluding the steps of the statement of technological problem, searching for a creative idea and stages of its implementation from the sketch to a ready set.The aim of the article: to describe the experience of developing collections of clothes by students of Pskov State University on the example of the collection “Lazurite”.Research methodology: observation, comparison, analysis, description.