Clothing Manufacturing Research Articles

Determination of Regional Presence of Male Body Types as a Prerequisite for Improving Garment Manufacture

Abstract Garment manufacture and garment fit to physique is a never-ending research subject. The human body is subject to changes that are reflected in its shape and body measurements, and appear in all periods of life. Monitoring the changes and gaining insight into the actual amounts of physical dimensions of an individual population unfold numerous opportunities to affect clothing design and manufacturing. In accordance with the issues mentioned above, a research was carried out to determine male body types of the Croatian male population. Male body types for a specific clothing size determine waist and hip girth, which completes the information on main body measurement amounts. Furthermore, the types of bodies are prescribed by the European Standard 14302-3 and, accordingly, in the observed sample, the presence of a particular type is determined with respect to regional affiliation and age. This study was conducted on a sample of 4090 test subjects divided into five regions, ages 20 to 85 years, divided into seven age groups. By statistical analysis of the results, that is, by the methods of descriptive statistics, the values of physical dimensions necessary for this research were determined.

El trabajo de los paños, elaboración y transformación en el siglo XV: modelos de producción y jerarquización en el eje Burgos-Madrid-Toledo

Las manufacturas textiles y del vestido tuvieron en el siglo XV en Castilla un importante desarrollo en las ciudades del camino real de Burgos que ponía en contacto las mesetas y Andalucía, como centros de reelaboración de paños en función del mercado y la demanda, con diversos modelos productivos y una jerarquización en función de ciertos criterios, siendo Toledo el referente de algunas industrias que alcanzaron su mayor expansión.

УЗАГАЛЬНЕНА СИСТЕМАТИЗАЦІЯ РІЗНОВИДІВ ФАКТУР МАТЕРІАЛІВ ДЛЯ ДИЗАЙН-ПРОЕКТУВАННЯ ОДЯГУ

The purpose of this study is to develop a generalized classification of types of invoices of materials for the manufacture of clothing and other products

АВТОМАТИЗАЦІЯ ПРОЦЕСУ СТВОРЕННЯ ЕСКІЗІВ НОВИХ МОДЕЛЕЙ ОДЯГУ В УМОВАХ МАЛИХ ПІДПРИЄМСТВ

Improvement process of designing new models of women's clothing by automating sketch design in conditions of small sewing enterprises. Analysis of computer graphics programs possibilities; determination of meaningful indicators for determining the suitability of existing software by expert estimation method; approbation of the study results in the conditions of designer workplace. There have been created templates of graphic images of different types of female figures, libraries of modern materials textures, which are most often used for women's clothing manufacture. There has been developed the method of new model sketches creation of women's clothes with the use of figure templates and libraries of materials. An approach is proposed that generalizes and simplifies the process of adaptation of universal computer programs of vector graphics with the needs of automated design of new clothing models There has been developed a methodical support for the use of the universal graphic editor Xara Designer Pro on the AWS of a designer of a small sewing enterprise.

Plastic bans in India expand

India’s western state of Maharashtra has joined 17 other states to ban the manufacture, use, storage, distribution, sale, import, and transportation of many plastic goods and materials. The prohibition covers a slew of items, including polyethylene bags, poly(ethylene terephthalate) bottles, polystyrene products, and various plastic plates, cups, spoons, and forks. Maharashtra is home to Mumbai and is India’s second most populous state. In total, India generates 15,000 metric tons of plastic waste daily, and only 60% is collected as waste or for recycling—the remainder is littered, according to India’s Central Pollution Control Board. Environmental groups have welcomed the plastics bans. But stakeholders such as the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture (MACCIA), All India Plastics Manufacturers Association (AIPMA), and the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India say the bans adversely affect the plastics industry as well as businesses that use plastic products. The Maharashtra ban h...

Blockchain Enhanced Emission Trading Framework in Fashion Apparel Manufacturing Industry

Motivated by the recent blockchain technology originally built for bitcoin transactions, various industries are exploring the opportunities to redefine their existing operational systems. In this study, an innovative environmentally sustainable solution is proposed for the fashion apparel manufacturing industry (FAMI), which is energized by blockchain. Incorporating the Emission Trading Scheme (ETS), and a novel “emission link” system, the proposed framework exposes carbon emission to the public and establishes a feature to reduce the emissions for all key steps of clothing making. Fully compatible with Industry 4.0, blockchain provides decentralization, transparency, automation, and immutability characteristics to the proposed framework. Specifically, the blockchain supported ETS framework, the carbon emissions of clothing manufacturing life cycle, and the emission link powered procedures are introduced in detail. A case study is provided to demonstrate the carbon emission evaluation procedure. Finally, a multi-criteria evaluation is performed to demonstrate the benefits and drawbacks of the proposed system.

دراسة مقارنة لبناء ثلاثة طرق متطورة لنماذج النساء للإستفادة منها في صناعة الملابس الجاهزة

ملخص البحث هدف هذا البحث الى التعرف على المقارنة بين ثلاثة طرق لبناء النماذج المتطورة (طريقة وينفرد ألدرتيش Winifred Aldrich - طريقة أرم استرونج Helen Armstrong – طريقة تانيا دوف Tanya-Dove). للإستفادة منها في صناعة الملابس الجاهزة.والتوصل لأفضل طريقة لبناء النماذج الأساسية للنساء والتى تؤدى إلى تحصيل وأداء مهارة أعلى لدى المتدربين. والتوصل إلي الطريقة الأفضل من حيث الضبط والملائمة والتى تؤدى إلى منتج أعلي جودة ضبط لدى المتدربين.کما هدف البحث إلى التعرف على إتجاهات المتدربين نحو الطرق الثلاثة المختارة . النتائج : أظهرت النتائج رفع مستوى التحصيل المعرفي والأداء المهاري لدى المتدربين بالنسبة للطرق الثلاثة (طريقة وينفرد ألدرتيش Winifred Aldrich - طريقة أرم استرونج Helen Armstrong – طريقة تانيا دوف Tanya-Dove). کما أوضحت المقارنة بين الطرق الثلاثة من حيث التحصيل المعرفي والأداء المهاري والضبط تفوق (طريقة وينفرد ألدرتيش Winifred Aldrich ) ، تليها (طريقة تانيا دوف Tanya Dove) , ثم (طريقة أرم استرونج Helen Armstrong ). A comparative study to build three advanced methods for women patterns to be used in the garment industry Abstract: The aim of this research was to identify the comparison of three methods of building advanced patterns (Winifred Aldrich method - Arm Armstrong method - Tanya-Dove method).To take advantage of them in the manufacture of ready-made clothes. And to find the best way to build basic patterns for women, which leads to the collection and performance of higher skill of the trainees.. Results : The results showed an increase in the level of cognitive achievement and skill performance of trainees for the three methods (Winifred Aldrich method - Arm Armstrong method - Tanya-Dove method). The comparison of the three methods in terms of cognitive achievement, skill performance, and Fitting (Winifred Aldrich method), followed by Tanya Dove (then the Armstrong method).

Baseline Scenario of Carbon Footprint of Polyester T-Shirt

Environmental sustainability is a vital issue in the clothing industry due to a large percentage of greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions from clothing manufacturing to consumption. The main GHGs are carbon dioxide (CO2), methane (CH4), nitrous oxide (N2O), hydro fluorocarbons (HFCs), per fluorocarbons (PFCs) and sulphur hexafluoride (SF6). Carbon dioxide is considered as the most significant greenhouse gas. The carbon footprint (CFP) of clothing supply chain reflects the GHG emissions throughout the life cycle of a product or activity, and CFP assessment is an important approach to assess GHG emissions. Polyester is one of the most widely used synthetic fibres in the world, but it is produced from non-renewable resources. In this study, a life cycle assessment (LCA) of a polyester T-shirt imported to Australia from China has been undertaken to examine the processes which cause GHG emissions across the life cycle. The results of the baseline model showed that consumer use phase contributes the highest CFP 30.35%, and second highest contributor is polyester fibre production process. Within the production phase, spinning is the highest contributor of CFP due to high electric energy demand. Within the consumer use phase, CFP is dominated by the washing process. The results of the model can be considered reliable comparing with other related studies.

Reconfiguring labour value and the capital/labour relation in Italian global fashion

AbstractThis essay draws on ethnographic research conducted from 2004 to 2012 among Italian firms involved in the manufacture and distribution of textiles and clothing in China to argue that the boundary between labour and capital cannot be assumed as fixed and stable, but rather is continually remade through particular, situated historical processes. I show how the Italian national legacy of capital/labour relations both set the stage for the outsourcing of manufacturing to China and shaped Italian firms’ investment and labour management strategies. As Chinese consumers became increasingly crucial to the European fashion industry, Italian firms reorganized their production and distribution processes to live up to the prestige value of ‘Made in Italy’. This brought about an ironic twist in the fetishism of commodities in which the proclaimed immaterial value of Italian commodities was appropriated by Italian managers, enhancing their labour value. At the same time, however, the dislocation of Italian managers impeded the process through which labour had been converted into capital in Italian industrial districts, hardening the boundary between capital and labour and altering the dynamic structure of capital/labour relations.

Dressmakers and Seamstresses in Toronto, 1834–1861

The young colonial city of Toronto was a landing place for many newcomers to Canada, and was a city of opportunity. The steady growth in population between 1834 and 1861 afforded women employment outside of the home, notably in the needle-trades (i.e. the roles involved in the manufacture of clothing). This article argues that the needle-trades were a significant source of employment for women in pre-industrial period Toronto and explores the social and professional distinctions between ‘dressmakers’ and ‘seamstresses’, by enumerating and aggregating women from the City Directories and 1861 census. Several biographical case studies are included to demonstrate the variety of women employed in the needle-trades, based on information from the primary source data.

Knowledge management processes a tool to support the product development process: An Exploratory study in general company for the manufacture of ready-made clothes - Nineveh

Knowledge management processes a tool to support the product development process: An Exploratory study in general company for the manufacture of ready-made clothes - Nineveh

Marketing challenges experienced by small-to-medium enterprises over formal clothing industries in Harare, Zimbabwe

small-to-medium enterprises (SMEs) are faced with a myriad of competitive business organisations which are broadly categorised as formal industries. These organisations exhibit varying marketing strategies to remain viable, survive and to be a going concern. This study investigated marketing strategies employed by clothing entrepreneurs in the SMEs over big formal clothing companies in Harare, Zimbabwe. The study sought to understand why customers prefer to buy from small clothing entrepreneurs over big clothing entrepreneurs. Non-probability sampling and purposive sampling techniques were adopted and a total of 75 entrepreneurs constituted the research participants. A post-positivism research philosophy was adopted, and a combination of questionnaires and open-ended interviews were the research instruments of choice. The study found that small clothing manufactures in Harare are increasingly becoming competitive in their marketing strategies as compared to rigid large formal clothing companies. The study found that, large companies need to implement creative and decisive marketing strategies and catch up with the prevailing winning marketing strategic practices suitable for the Zimbabwean economic environment. The study found that legal and illegal imported clothes (mainly from Mozambique) are threatening the viability and sustainability of Harare clothing manufacturers. It is therefore recommended that the Zimbabwean government needs to capacitate the small-scale clothing manufacturers, curb illegal smuggling of clothes from Mozambique and fight anti-competitive practices of large clothing manufacturers. Small-scale clothing manufacturers are contributing to employment creation in Harare and Zimbabwe at large.

Weaving and embroidering in the design for functionality of upholstery fabrics

Upholstery fabric are the most important fabric in the textile industry. It is characterized by a lot of precision and care during its production. It has the quality of performance and appearance, especially the upholstery fabric which must have characteristics such as: comfort, color stability, tensile strength, and resistance to friction and wear due to the upholstery fabric are exposed to stresses during the cutting out and using. Nowdays, embroidery technique has become an important element in the manufacture of clothing and furnishing the reason of that technique adding to the fabric an aesthetic appearance and the main purpose to embroidery technique is achieved functional purpose to the product. Problem of Research: Embroidery technology is used to produce upholstery fabric to add aesthetic value but embroidery upholstery fabric are lacked optimum functionality that achieving the higher level of quality and maintaining fabric from tearing and wearing that output from frequent friction on them. The upholstery fabric is applied at embroidered stage that is an additional stage after weaving stage so the total cost is become higher and taken extra time in production to get final product. Embroidered stage is leaded to stress on fabric and it causes that fabric are exposed to tight from embroidered needle in addition to embroidered yarn that are used to get aesthetic design of upholstery fabric , are exposed many stresses during embroidered technique so default age and ability of friction resistance of embroidered upholstery fabric are reduced during using. Aims of Research: Producing woven and embroidered upholstery fabric that having the same designs and the same yarn to do comparing between two types of fabric. Studying functional properties for woven and embroidered techniques and influenced them on decorated pattern that found in produced fabric. Producing woven upholstery fabric in two methods that saving embroidered stage to reduce the price of produced fabric and to attract customer to buy them. Studding functional performance of woven and embroidered upholstery fabric that are produced in the research. Methodology of Research : Research is followed experimental method and analytical curriculum. The Results : sample 1 achieved highest result in friction resistance test comparing with the same embroidered sample (sample 2). The results of the test showed that woven sample with extra pick is given perfect result. Sample 1 is shown perfect result because of using (5 weft sateen weave), in addition to the method of textile interrelationship between warp and weft , which helped to increase the resistance of abrasion comparing with woven sample 3 with normal decorated

Minimum wage in Croatia: sectoral and regional perspectives

In this paper, we identify the sectors and regions in Croatia most affected by minimum wage changes. By using four criteria, we identify 13 low‐wage sectors. The analysis also reveals five regions (counties) in which the minimum wage can play an important role. Low‐wage sectors in Croatia are found to be manufacture of textiles, manufacture of clothing, manufacture of leather and related products, manufacture of wood and of products of wood, manufacture of rubber and plastic products, manufacture of furniture, construction of buildings, specialised construction activities, retail trade, food and beverage services, security and investigation activities, services to buildings (cleaning etc.) and personal services. We analyse the employment and wage changes for these low‐wage sectors in the period 2009–2015. It turns out that tradable low‐wage sectors are highly affected by minimum wage changes due to a high concentration of employees with wages just above the minimum wage. However, during the recession, these sectors had a smaller employment decline and higher wage growth compared with both the manufacturing industry as a whole and non‐tradable low‐wage sectors.

Green supply chain – barriers and benefits of implementing the new management strategy – analysis of the empirical research

The point of view of the considerations shows the main goal was to show the barriers, benefits, and motivators for taking action to build a new management strategy namely the green supply chain. To realize of the aims was used literature analysis, which let to the selections of the extracted factors, and their verifications were based on empirical research conducted in two industries: food and clothing manufacturers. The catalog of factors is the basis for consideration and recommendations for organizations and supply chains, what elements to avoid, or which ones may be a problem in creating the green supply chain, and on the contrary, and to shows they will be motivating for the implementation of the new business strategy.

Design of a novel equipment for automated clothing manufacturing

To achieve quality in the clothing manufacturing industry, it is necessary to innovate and automate certain processes, in order to increase productivity and reduce errors due to labor-intensive tasks. This study is based on the need to design a machine able to sew and cut collars and cuffs, to be applied on clothing. After the initial sketches, in which the types of mechanisms and the desired functions of the different systems were defined as a function of the intended movements and actions and the equipment structure, these systems have been optimized to obtain a functional unit as the final result. The Finite Element Method (FEM) was used as a design tool for the machine structure. The end result is a fully-functional solution to apply in this type of equipment. In fact, the proposed solution is a viable possibility for an automated equipment for sewing and cutting collars and cuffs.

Manufacturer, retailer and consumer misbehaviour in the United States during the Second World War

Abstract With the entry of the United States into the Second World War clothing manufacturers, retailers and consumers became concerned about the possibility of wartime regulations. Scare buying and hoarding were one response to this worry. In this article we report our analysis of advertisements, articles and editorials in the New York Times, the Los Angeles Times, Women’s Wear Daily, Vogue and other newspapers and periodicals. Wartime regulations related to use of materials and pricing were implemented to support the war effort. There is evidence that regulations were not always followed. Indications of wartime misbehaviours provide a nuanced picture of the United States home front, one that indicates misbehaviours on the part of consumers and some individuals and firms in the apparel and textile industry during the Second World War. The manufacturer and retailer advertisements, often ambiguous, coupled with consumer fear drove wartime consumer clothing purchases.

Charlotte Brontë and the Politics of Cloth: The ‘vile rumbling mills’ of Yorkshire

This essay examines Charlotte Brontë’s engagement with the textile industry from her earliest writings to her 1849 Condition of England novel Shirley in order to emphasize the role that Yorkshire and its staple industry played in her writing. Critics have discussed her interest in textile production largely in relation to Shirley. However, her fascination with cloth manufacturing is evident in many of her Angrian tales and some of her unfinished novels. This essay argues that through her early representations of mills and mill owners she formulated an understanding of political conflict and masculine power which helped to shape her mature writing. This culminates in Shirley with her critique of the taboo against educated women entering careers in trade and manufacturing.

Ineos branches into clothing business

With plans already in hand to build off-road vehicles, the British petrochemical firm Ineos says it is branching out again—this time by agreeing to acquire clothing manufacturer Belstaff. The almost-100-year-old Belstaff was founded in the U.K. and is associated with making clothes for motorcyclists. It employs around 200 people.

Introduction: Fashion in Utopia, Utopia in Fashion

Editorial paper for the guest-edited special issue Utopia and Fashion “Utopia and Fashion” comes at a time when the fashion industry faces a self-inflicted crisis that forces it to fundamentally rethink its own future. The desire to address the wrongs of the status quo and imagine alternatives and future possibilities has always been the driving force behind utopian thinking. The production of this special issue, “Utopia and Fashion,” at a time when the future of our relationship with fashion is being so widely discussed is not motivated by a wish to find “a stick with which to beat contemporary fashion,” which, according to fashion historian Aileen Ribeiro, has often been the case in utopian writing.19 On the contrary, this special issue is intended to be an initial contribution to what we hope could become a long-term dialogue regarding both the role of fashion in utopian thinking and the potential of utopian thinking to reimagine and inspire better futures for fashion. Included in this issue are three articles with a historical focus; two of these examine the role of fashion in selected utopian and dystopian texts, while the third explores more radical early twentieth-century visions of nudity as liberation from the oppression of dress. The other contributions engage with the critical issues surrounding fashion production and consumption. In addition to the essays in the “Articles” section, we include contributions from contemporary artists and designers whose practices, in different ways, challenge how fashion and clothing are currently used, experienced,and appreciated. By including the “Artist Statements” section, we aimed to bridge the often unhelpful gap between theoretical discussion and practical implementation and so complement some of the discussion in this issue with tangible examples of how fashion and our relationship with clothes can be rethought through art and design practice.