ABSTRACT. Chrome tanning material is still widely used in the tanning process for garment leather production. Its use began to be reduced to overcome its negative environment impact. Vegetable tannin of a mimosa and tara combination was used in this study to substitute chrome tanning material. Garment made from vegetable-tanned leather with a ratio mimosa to tara of 5:13 was compared to garments made from chrome-tanned leather, both the production methods and resulting leather characteristics. To obtain garment leather characteristics, chrome-tanned leather requires auxiliary materials and two fatliquoring steps. Vegetable-tanned leather requires more auxiliary materials and fatliquoring steps (3 steps). Physical test results show that chrome-tanned leather gives better tensile strength, elongation, tear strength, and softness that meet with SNI (Standar Nasional Indonesia or Indonesian National Standard). Meanwhile, garments from vegetable-tanned leather exhibit elongation, tear strength, and softness that meet with SNI. However, adding auxiliary materials and fatliquoring steps in the garment-making process from vegetable-tanned leather is still unable to produce the softness, smoothness, and elasticity of a garment from chrome-tanned leather.
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