Anti-wrinkle Research Articles

Evaluation of the Antiwrinkle Activity of Enriched Isatidis Folium Extract and an HPLC-UV Method for the Quality Control of Its Cream Products.

Currently, many extracts from natural sources are added to cosmetic products for reducing facial aging and wrinkles. This study investigated the antiwrinkle activity of enriched extract of Isatidis Folium used for a novel antiwrinkle cream product. The result demonstrated that this enriched extract has excellent antiwrinkle activity by significantly inhibiting mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1, matrix metalloproteinase-3, and pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-1β and upregulating the mRNA expression of IL-4 and procollagen. Additionally, to implement effective quality control of the entire manufacturing process of antiwrinkle cream products based on the enriched extract of Isatidis Folium, the main chemical constituents of the enriched extract of Isatidis Folium was evaluated by high–performance liquid chromatography-photodiode array-tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-PDA-ESI-MS/MS), five constituents were undisputedly confirmed. An HPLC-UV method in 15-min analysis time for quality assessment of the entire manufacturing process of antiwrinkle cream products was proposed and validated. The optimal conditions for extracting TMCA (3,4,5-trimethoxycinnamic acid) from the developed antiwrinkle cream products were determined using response surface methodology based on central composite design. The established HPLC method and optimal extract condition are suitable for routinely analyzing this novel antiwrinkle cream product.

Study of Cold-Pressed Tobacco Seed Oil Properties by Gas Chromatography Method.

A special place among vegetable oils was occupied by natural tobacco oil. Natural tobacco oil in folk medicine is used as an antiseptic and antibacterial agent. To determine the possible alternative use of tobacco, the seeds representing Kazakhstan tobacco cultivars, extracted from ground Nicotiana tabacum seeds, were investigated by using the cold press. The quality of the oil was assessed in terms of free fatty acid content. The percentage oil yield was 36.75 ± 0.50%. Tobacco seed oil is highly unsaturated, nonacidic, and would require little purification. The oil can be used for the production of soap, antiwrinkle cream for the face, hair shampoo, shoe cream, and as a high-resolution base oil for perfumes and light industry and can be commercialized due to its high oil yield, for use as anti-inflammatory drugs.

Raising Awareness About the Impacts of Squalene on the Well-Being of Individuals, Societies & the Environment!

Before humans inserted themselves into the aquatic food chain, sharks were at the top maintaining balance and playing a crucial role on this earth. For hundreds of millions of years (even before the dinosaurs!) sharks have been shaping our underwater ecosystem and creating a foundation for life in all parts of the sea. Now with 95% of shark populations decreasing everywhere our health and the planet's health is at major risk. Shark livers contain an oil so hydrating and rich all cosmetic that companies want to get their hands on it. This simple substance, also known as squalene, is found all around the world in the form of cosmetics (lotions, anti-wrinkle creams, sunscreen, foundations) and daily off the shelf supplements. With the serious lack of education about what’s in our cosmetics, it makes it scary to think that almost all of us have been absentmindedly plastering on prehistoric predators on our body in the name of beauty.

EFFECT OF TRANSFERSOME FORMULATION ON THE STABILITY AND ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITY OF N-ACETYLCYSTEINE IN ANTI-AGING CREAM

Objective: N-acetylcysteine is an antioxidant with thiol/sulfhydryl groups and is currently being developed as an active ingredient in anti-agingcreams. The study’s aim was to compare the stability and antioxidant activity of N-acetylcysteine in anti-aging creams formulated with and withouta transfersome carrier system.Methods: Stability was assessed by performing cycling, centrifugal, and accelerated stability tests. In addition, antioxidant activity was measuredby the DPPH method, and in vitro penetration was measured using Franz diffusion cells. The analysis of N-acetylcysteine was performed using highperformanceliquid chromatography with ultraviolet–visible detection at a wavelength of 214 nm and a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min, injection volume of5 μL, and a mobile phase of phosphate buffer pH 3.0.Results: The N-acetylcysteine transfersome and non-transfersome cream preparations did not change color or show phase separation during thecycling and centrifugal tests. The N-acetylcysteine in the transfersome and non-transfersome cream preparations had strong antioxidant activity,with half-maximal inhibitory concentrations of 26.90 μg/mL and 38.63 μg/mL, respectively. The in vitro penetration test using Franz diffusion cellsshowed that the cumulative amount of penetrated N-acetylcysteine was 7355.13 μg/cm2 (flux of 845.67 μg/cm2∙h) in the transfersome cream and4677.61 μg/cm2 (flux of 533.33 μg/cm2∙h) in the non-transfersome cream.Conclusion: The in vitro penetration test results showed that the transfersome formulations in creams were able to increase the cumulative amountand flux of penetrated N-acetylcysteine in anti-aging cream preparations relative to those not formulated with transfersome.

Primena D-optimalnog dizajna eksperimenata i sveobuhvatne reološke analize u razvoju prirodnih anti-aging kremova

This work is focused on the development and evaluation of completely natural anti-aging creams, with the aid of the experimental design. Model formulations, differing in the content of emollients (10%/15%/20%) and emulsifier (1%/2%/3%) and containing the Acmella oleracea extract as a model anti-aging active were prepared by the cold process and evaluated regarding rheological behavior (con-tinuous rotational and oscillatory tests) and physical stability (dynamic-mechanical thermoanalysis-DMTA test). To study the influence of varied formulation parameters and their interaction on the critical rheological characteristics of the developed creams, a D-optimal design within the response surface method was applied. The data acquired from rheological characterization revealed favorized pseudoplastic (shear-thinning) flow behavior with the yield point, and dominating elastic behavior (storage modulus G' > loss modulus G") in both, amplitude and frequency sweeps, which together with a rather small and constant structural change obtained in the DMTA test indicated satisfying overall physical stability of formulated creams. The results of D-optimal design showed a significant individual, as well as a mutual effect of the tested formulation factors (emollient concentration, emulsifier concentration) affecting critical quality attributes (apparent viscosity, yield point, flow point, G', G", structural change) of developed anti-aging creams. Based on optimization results, the model formulation containing 20% of the emollient mixture and 2% of the emulsifier was selected as preferred in terms of required rheological properties and, thus, desired stability and quality, and it could be considered as a promising candidate worth exploring further for efficacy and in vivo skin performances.

Isolation, Purification and Characterization of Sericin Protein from the Discharge Water of Silk Industry

Sericin is a silk worm secreting protein occurring naturally as a silk cocoon.It is a typical example of a natural core-shell structure. Silk cocoon constitutes about 75% of core silk fibroin (SF) and 25% of shell silk sericin (SS). Silk fibroin has a potential application in the textile and biomedical field due to its inherent mechanical strength. Sericin is a hydrophilic protein that has a greater affinity with silk fibroin;hence it binds with silk fibroin coaxially to protect pupa from predators, temperature variations, moisture, mechanical abrasions, etc.. During the commercial production of raw silk fiber, sericin will be degummed by treating the cocoon with hot water at high temperatures and discharged as wastewater after extraction of silk fibroin from cocoons. Sericin protein posse’s potential application in the field of cosmetics as an additive in skin moisturizer, shampoo, anti-wrinkle creams due to the presence of hydroxyl amino acids, wound healing, promoting cell growth and differentiation in pharmaceutical industries due to its biological origin without causing an undesirable immunological response. Sericin protein was extracted from discharge water collected from the silk industry was purified and characterized using SDS-PAGE, FTIR, CD, SEM, DSC & TG-DTA was reported.

A Comprehensive Review on Herbal Cosmetics in the Management of Skin Diseases

Cosmetics are applied on skin to enhance the personality, beauty, colour, complexity, tone, texture etc. Maintaining a healthy skin is important for a healthy body. Skin is a protective covering and an attractive feature of the body for both men and women. It forms an important part of personal appearance. There are various cosmetic preparations available in the market like creams, lotions, oils, soaps, gels, moisturizers, etc. These cosmetic can be applied on the skin to enhance beauty and protect the skin from different skin disorders like acne, blackheads, age spots, skin rashes, skin allergy etc. There are also other preparations which include anti-ageing creams, skin whitening agents, gels etc. for protecting the skin from UV radiations, sunscreen lotions and moisturizing creams to protect the skin from different climatic conditions. In the present scenario most of the cosmetics products are adulterated. There are various other cosmetic preparations in the market which are of spurious quality which may produce some side effects like skin rashes, skin allergic reactions and may lead to skin diseases. In this paper we have reviewed different medicinal plants used as cosmetics and these preparations can be used safely without side effects on the skin. In this article a special emphasis has been given to herbal cosmetics because herbals are a part of our life and their uses are increasing day by day all over the world. Scientists are still working on the evaluation of new methods that could increase our knowledge and enable to find new applications for it.

Renewable sources: applications in personal care formulations.

A global tendency for products considered environmentally sustainable, and ecologically obtained led the industry related to personal care formulations to fund the research and the development of personal care/cosmetics containing ingredients from natural resources. Furthermore, consumers are aware of environmental and sustainability issueans, thus not harming the environment represents a key consideration when developing a new cosmetic ingredient. In this study we review some examples of active ingredients or raw materials used in cosmetics/personal care/biomedical products that are coming from either through biotechnological systems, or as byproducts of several industries. A skin formulation containing biosynthetic actives, prepared by us and the study regarding its dermocosmetic properties are also described. The need for the standardization processes, the safety assessment tools, the improvement of the exploitation methods of these renewable sources in order the production to be ecologically and economically better are also discussed.

PENINGKATAN PRODUKTIVITAS LIMBAH PERTANIAN DAUN BAWANG DAYAK (Eleutherine Palmifolia L. Merr ) SEBAGAI ALTERNATIF KRIM ANTI AGING ALAMI

Eleutherine palmifolia L. Merr are typical plants of Borneo. Pharmacologically the part tubers are proven to have a therapeutic effect. Eleutherine palmifolia grow in the tropics, one of which is in the Petuk Katimpun area of ​​Palangkaraya, Central Borneo, where there land are vast Eleutherine palmifolia. After harvesting Eleutherine palmifolia will produce agricultural waste in the form of leaves that are not utilized and left to rot. Eleutherine palmifolia leaves waste extract contains flavonoid compounds and has antioxidant potential. Eleutherine palmifolia leaves antioxidants can be used to inhibit the aging of the skin and as an alternative to synthetic antioxidants which are harmful to health. Until now there has been no research that to take advantage of Eleutherine palmifolia leaves waste into active substances in antiaging creams. Therefore it is necessary to conduct research to obtain cream preparations with waste active ingredients as antiaging. Waste extract has a very strong antioxidant activity with an IC50 value of 45.33 ppm. One way ANOVA analysis that all cream had significantly different antioxidant attenuation (p < 0,05). Post Hoc analysis Formula III is a the formula with the damping antioxidant reduction the very biggest that is 63.84% ± 0.0891. From the results of the study, the waste of Eleutherine palmifolia leaves can be used as an alternative to anti-aging creams, which one of the efforts increased productivity of agricultural waste.

Diseño y evaluación de cosméticos con vinagre y extracto de manzana

El vinagre de manzana está compuesto en gran parte por compuestos polifenólicos que le confieren una serie de características óptimas para el cuidado de la piel, entre las que se encuentran la actividad antioxidante, antimelanogénica, anticelulítica, seborreguladora o antiinflamatoria; dichas propiedades están acentuadas en el extracto de manzana ya que posee un perfil fenólico superior.Se realizaron cuatro formulaciones cosméticas (dos cremas antiarrugas, un cremigel seborregulador y un gel anticelulítico) añadiendo el vinagre o el extracto, dependiendo del efecto y cosmeticidad buscada, a una base previamente seleccionada y elaborada mediante las técnicas de emulsificación o gelificación.Los resultados de los estudios de estabilidad combinada concluyente, óptimos para las cuatro formulaciones, permitieron fijar una caducidad de 24 meses, lo que hace factible su elaboración y distribución a nivel comercial.En base a todos los estudios realizados se puede concluir que la incorporación del vinagre o extracto de manzana en fórmulas cosméticas es una opción a tener en cuenta, ya que aporta múltiples beneficios para la piel, no presenta problemas de incorporación a las bases y por su bajo coste no encarece sustancialmente la fórmula final.

The Norwegian biomonitoring study from the EU project EuroMix: Levels of phenols and phthalates in 24-hour urine samples and exposure sources from food and personal care products

BackgroundExposure to multiple chemicals occurs daily through several routes; diet, inhalation and dermal contact. Real-life exposure assessment is needed to understand the risk. Therefore, a human biomonitoring (BM) study was performed to examine the plausibility of source-to-dose calculations for chemical mixtures in the Horizon 2020 EuroMix project. ObjectivesTo provide a detailed description of the design of the EuroMix BM study, and to present the initial results for urinary phenols and phthalates and to describe their exposure determinants from foods and personal care products (PCPs). MethodAdults (44 males and 100 females) kept detailed diaries on their food consumption, PCP use and handling of cash receipts. Urine samples were collected over the same 24-hour period. Urinary levels of four parabens, five bisphenols, oxybenzone/benzophenone-3 (OXBE), triclosan (TCS), triclocarban (TCC) and metabolites of eight phthalates and 1,2-cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid diisononyl ester (DINCH) were analysed by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography and tandem mass spectrometry. Multivariable linear regressions were performed between PCPs/food categories and each dependent chemical variable separately, and were only sex-stratified when an interactions between sex and the independent variable was significant. ResultsThe detection rate for the metabolites of phthalates and DINCH, and bisphenol A (BPA) and TCS in urine was 88–100%, while bisphenol S (BPS) and bisphenol F (BPF) were only found in 29% and 4% of the urine samples, respectively. Bisphenol B (BPB), bisphenol AF (BPAF) and TCC were not detected. Food groups associated with phenol exposure were meat, bread, beverages and butter and oil. Food determinants for phthalate exposure were sweets, butter and oil, fruit and berries and other foods. The only positive association between the use of PCPs and phenols was found between BPA and lip gloss/balm. Phthalate exposure was associated with the use of shower gel, hand cream (females), toothpaste, anti-wrinkle cream (females) and shaving products (males). ConclusionThe participants in the EuroMix BM study were exposed to a mixture of phenols and phthalates. A variety of food categories and PCPs were found to be possible sources of these chemicals. This indicates a complex pattern of exposure to numerous chemicals from multiple sources, depending on individual diet and PCP preferences.

An antiaging eye cream with polyhydroxy/bionic acids, algae polysaccharide complex and a peptide blend significantly improves undereye crepe texture, dark circles, and puffiness

An antiaging eye cream with polyhydroxy/bionic acids, algae polysaccharide complex and a peptide blend significantly improves undereye crepe texture, dark circles, and puffiness

Confocal raman imaging and 5 environmental stressors model demonstrates benefits of antiaging facial cream for deep hydration and protection against external aggressors

Confocal raman imaging and 5 environmental stressors model demonstrates benefits of antiaging facial cream for deep hydration and protection against external aggressors

Comparison of topical antiaging creams in the management of lateral canthal lines

ObjectiveThis study compared an antiaging treatment with two currently marketed cosmetic antiaging products for the treatment of lateral canthal lines ("crow's feet").MethodsHealthy female volunteers (72) aged of 54.6 years (mean) having fine‐to‐moderate wrinkles in the lateral canthal areas were randomized to one of three treatments applied daily over 28 days: Group A (Purgenesis™ Day Cream, Purgenesis™ Eye Cream, and Purgenesis™ Night Cream); Group B (Prevage® Eye Lotion, Prevage® Day Cream, and Prevage® Night Cream); or Group C (La Mer® Eye Balm, Crème de La Mer®, and La Mer® Night Cream). The effects on anti‐wrinkle properties and for sensory attributes and general performance were evaluated on Days 1, 7, and 28.ResultsSkin hydration improved significantly at all time points in Groups A and B, and at Day 28 in Group C. Group A patients experienced significant improvements in measured skin elasticity parameters at Day 28; extensibility and maximum amplitude were significantly better at Day 28 in Groups B and C. Benefits were also seen in profilometric parameters with statistical significance only in Group A Volunteer tolerance was good with all three treatments, although moderate and high levels of adverse events were numerically higher in Group B than in Groups A or C, and levels of slight discomfort were significantly more prevalent in Group B.ConclusionThe Purgenesis™ antiaging treatment significantly improved skin hydration, elasticity, and profilometry parameters during a 28‐day study. This therapy was found to be well tolerated and effective in countering the cutaneous signs of aging.

Thermostability and free radical scavenging activity of Annona muricata(L.) leaf extract in antiaging cream

Annona muricata is an Indonesian medicinal plant commonly used as an anticancer agent. The finding of its strong antioxidant activity leads to the development of cosmetic products, particularly as antiaging cream. Formulation may influence thermostability and free radical scavenging activity of A.muricata leaf extract. The purpose of this study was to investigate the thermostability and free radical scavenging activity of A.muricata leaf extract incorporated in Gattefosse Skin Cashmere cream. Accelerated stability study utilizing climatic chamber at a temperature of 40oC ± 2oC and relative humidity of 75% ± 5% for 20 days of storage was used to evaluate thermostability. 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazil (DPPH) using spectrophotometer was used for free radical scavenging activity test. The result from physical properties including appearance of antiaging cream, pH, viscosity and rheological properties of each formula showed that all of the formulas were stable at a temperature of 40oC ± 2oC and relative humidity of 75% ± 5% for 20 days. Free radical scavenging activity using DPPH showed high antioxidant activities from the A.muricata leaf extract in the Gattefosse Skin Cashmere cream. We concluded that A. muricata leaf extract could be developed into natural antiaging cosmetic product.

Novel topical dermal repair: A clinical analysis.

There is an increasing interest in and demand for noninvasive anti-aging treatments, and cosmeceuticals are an effective adjunct treatment to in-office cosmetic treatments. This study evaluates the short-term cosmetic benefits of a topical anti-wrinkle cream (Ultrascript Dermal Regenesis, Montclair, NJ) and a topical evening DNA repair serum (Dermal DNA Repair Serum with the active ingredient AC-11 from Optigenex INC). Fourteen women of all Fitzpatrick skin types were randomized to receive either the topical anti-wrinkle cream (AM cream) only or the AM cream and the topical evening DNA repair serum (PM serum) for 16weeks. Subjects noted their subjective improvement in wrinkles, pore size, hyperpigmentation, and overall skin quality. Two blinded physicians evaluated the appearance of wrinkles pre- and postapplication of the AM cream. Participants who applied the AM cream only reported subjective improvement in wrinkles and overall quality of their skin. Immediate improvement of wrinkles was seen after the application of the AM cream. Subjects who applied both the AM cream and PM serum noted improvement in pore size. This novel anti-wrinkle cream is a safe and effective topical treatment for the immediate, but short-term improvement of wrinkles. Prolonged use of the cream and continued follow-up may show additional long-term benefits.

685 A study on the mechanisms and the efficacy of the anti-wrinkle ingredient NEI-L1

Sodium 2-[4-[[(S)-1-[[(S)-2-[[(RS)-3,3,3-trifluoro-1-isopropyl-2-oxopropyl]aminocarbonyl]pyrrolidin-1-yl] carbonyl]-2-methylpropyl]aminocarbonyl]benzoylamino]acetate (NEI-L1) was approved as a quasi-drug ingredient to improve wrinkles in 2016 in Japan. The product containing NEI-L1 has been used by many Japanese women in the past two years. NEI-L1 has the strong effect to inhibit the activity of neutrophil elastase (NE). Neutrophils are migrated into dermis by stimuli such as ultraviolet irradiation and they release NE to degrade dermal extracellular matrix (ECM). NEI-L1 suppresses degradation of ECM and improves the wrinkle. In this study, we examined whether NEI-L1 suppresses NE-induced collagen degradation using the culture supernatant of normal human dermal fibroblasts in vitro experiment and cultured human skin tissues ex vivo experiment. As a result of in vitro experiment, collagen content in supernatant treated with 2.5 μg/mL NE was significantly reduced (4.6%) compared to non-treated control. On the other hand, 10 μg/mL NEI-L1 drastically suppressed this reduction (94%). Ex vivo experiment also supported the suppression effect of NEI-L1 in not only collagen but also elastic fiber degradation. In the skin section treated with 10 μg/mL NE, the area of collagen fibers decreased to 65% wheares 1mg/mL NEI-L1 with NE maintained 91% of collagen. Similarly, the area of elastic fibers were 57% and 88%, respectively. From these results, the effect of NEI-L1 to improve wrinkle is due to inhibiting ECM degradation caused by NE both in vitro and ex vivo. NEI-L1 showed anti-wrinkles efficacy in a double-blinded clinical test.

Determination of alpha-Tocopherol Acetate in an Anti-Aging Cosmetic Cream by Gas Chromatography

A gas chromatographic method was applied by using the GC-FID tehnique for the determination of a-tocopherol acetate in an anti-aging properly developed cosmetic formulation. A simple methanol:acetonitrile organic solvent mixture (50:50v/v) was required for sample preparation and the separation of the studied compound was carried out in specific chromatographic conditions. The analysis was carried out in proper developed anti-aging cream sample and satisfactory results were obtained for the recovery of the studied compound.

DEVELOPMENT AND EVALUATION OF HERBAL ANTIAGING CREAM FORMULATION CONTAINING ANNONA SQUAMOSA LEAF EXTRACT

Objective: The aim of this research article is to develop and evaluate herbal antiaging cream using Annona squamosa leaf extract because of its antioxidant potential.&#x0D; Method: Free radical scavenging activity of Annona squamosa aqueous was determined by DPPH method. 0.5 ml of each solution of concentration of sample was added to 3 ml of 0.004% ethanolic DPPH free radical solution. After 30 minutes the absorbance of the preparations were taken at 517 nm by a UV spectrophotometer which was compared with the corresponding absorbance of standard ascorbic acid. The qualitative phytochemical analysis of Annona squamosa (custard apple) leaf extract shows the presence of flavonoids, tannins, alkaloids and phenols and absence of terpenoids and steroids&#x0D; Results: Formulation A3 shows good DPPH scavenging activity as compare to formulation A1 and A2 and ascorbic acid. Formulation A3 is stable for 3 months.&#x0D; Conclusion: Due to high antioxidant values of Annona squamosa it is concluded that it is possible to develop anti-aging cream using aqueous extract of Annona squamosa leaf.

ACCELERATED STABILITY TESTING OF ANTI-AGING CREAM: FORMATION OF MYRISTIC ACID AND STEARIC ACID AS DEGRADATION PRODUCTS

Objective: This study aimed to determine the stability of anti-aging cream using the accelerated stability test and calculating the levels of myristicacid and stearic acid as degradation products.Methods: Optimum conditions and validation methods for the mixture of myristic acid and stearic acid were determined to obtain a valid method fordetermining the levels of degradation products in anti-aging cream. Derivatization was performed with the Lepage esterification method, which usesmethanol-toluene 4:1 (v/v) and acetyl chloride catalysts. The analysis was performed using gas chromatography (GC) Shimadzu GC-17A system withan HP-1 column and flame ionization detection.Results: The column temperature was 120°C, with an increase of 10°C/min (up to 160°C) followed by an increase of 3°C/min (up to 220°C;maintained for 5 min) and an increase of 10°C/min (up to 260°C; maintained for 5 min). The injector and detector temperatures were 260°C and280°C, respectively, with a flow rate of 1 mL/min. The retention times of myristic acid and stearic acid were 16.655 min and 28.169 min, respectively,with tailing factor values of 0.734 and 0.943, respectively. Validation results fulfilled our acceptance criteria, which obtained linearity for myristicacid at y=9.6483+190.78x, with a correlation coefficient (r) value of 0.9997, limit of detection (LOD)=0.0013 parts per million (ppm), and limitof quantification (LOQ)=0.0042 ppm. The linearity for stearic acid was determined at y=17.163+106.22x, with a correlation coefficient (r) valueof 0.9998, LOD=0.0016 ppm, and LOQ=0.0053 ppm. Results of the anti-aging cream stability test indicated that the average remaining levels ofisopropyl myristate from 0 to 3 months were 99.6283%, 99.1995%, 98.2571%, and 97.1511%, respectively. The average remaining levels of glycerylmonostearate were 99.6791%, 98.2881%, 96.2247%, and 93.7195% from 0 to 3 months, respectively.Conclusion: The expiration date of the anti-aging cream product was then calculated using zero-order kinetics and determined to be 10 months and9 days.