The Capillary Waves’ Contribution to Wind-Wave Generation

Abstract

Published theories and observations have shown that dissipation of gravity waves implies frequency downshifting of wave energy. Hence, for wind-waves, the wind energy input to the highest frequencies is of special interest. Here it is shown that this input is vital, because the direct wind energy input obtained by the air-pressure’s work on most gravity waves is slightly less than what the waves need to grow. Further, the wind’s input of the angular momentum that waves need to grow is found to be absent at most gravity wave frequencies. The capillary waves that appear at the surface of the sea when the wind is blowing solve these problems. To demonstrate this, an extension of linear wave theory is established to study possibilities and limitations for transfer of energy and angular momentum from the wind to waves through these frequencies. The theory describes regular, gravity–capillary waves with constant amplitude under laminar conditions. It includes surface tensions, viscosity, gravity and a wind-generated shear current, and shows that these waves—contrary to most gravity waves—receive more energy from the wind than they dissipate and angular momentum they cannot keep. Hence, the problem of the missing input of energy and angular momentum from wind to gravity waves is solved by transfers through the capillary waves. This implies that capillary waves are vital to obtain growing gravity waves.