The Bilingual Archive of the Linen Weaver Petechonsis: Son of Thoteus, and "O. Bodl. Eg. Inscr." 328

Textile industry is considered as one of the largest generators of toxic chemical waste water in India. Dyes released by the textile industries pose a threat to environmental safety. Recently, dye decolourization through biological means has gained momentum as these are cheap and can be applied to wide range of dyes. This review paper focuses on the bacterial biodegradation of toxic textile dyes. Along with the early history of dyes, the toxic effects of textile azo dyes also focused in this review. Various biological techniques for the biodegradation of textile dyes by microorganisms are clearly given in this review. The advantages of aerobic biodegradation over anaerobic degradation are also discussed in this review. The studies discussed in this paper indicate biological decolourization by bacteria has a great potential to be developed further as a decentralized wastewater treatment technology for small textile or dyeing units. However, further research work is required to study the toxicity of the metabolites of dye degradation and the possible fate of the utilized biomass in order to ensure the development of an eco-friendly technology. Key words: Textile dye effluent, azo dyes, biodegradation and bacteria.

A bstract The dyeing and printing process es in textile industry produces wastewater containing residual dye s . The most widely used textile dyes are azo dyes. The textile industry is one of the main industr ies in West Java province, where one of the textile industry center s is Majalaya textile industry center. Majalaya textile industry center had beg u n since the 1910s, where in Majalaya subd istrict located the most textile companies which produc ed textile wastewater. Textile w astewater which contain ed azo dyes discharged into the Citarum Hulu River directly or after treatment in the Waste Water Treatment Plant (WWTP) owned by the company. One of the p roduct metabolites produced from azo dyes biodegradation by bacteria in anaerobic conditions are various anilines. Several aniline s which are persistent , c ould flow to downstream of Citarum Hulu River. Various anilines, referred to as total aniline s , c ould be analyzed by the colorimetric method using visual spectrophotometer. T otal aniline s in water sample s after biodegradation by anaerobic bacteria was 14.46 mg/l highest . While total aniline in river water samples was 3.58 mg/l highest. And at the downstream of Citarum Hulu River, there was total of aniline 1,825 mg/l highest in the river sediment samples . DO in the river water samples were 4.25 - 7.8 mg/l, while pH of the river water samples were 7.1 - 10.7. The occurence of total aniline in textile wastewater and river water samples in Citarum Hulu River ( Majalaya subdistrict) and in river sediments at the downstream of Citarum Hulu indicated biodegradation of azo dyes from textile wastewater by anaerobic bacteria. Key words : Citarum Hulu River, textile wastewater, azo dyes, total aniline

The age of digital information has arrived with the development of computer science and technology. In order to be ready for the new era, the ”National Digital Archives Program” (NDAP) has been launched and sponsored by the National Science Council (NSC) since year 2002. It is a national long-term plan of the ultimate mission of preserving and sustaining the culture and civilization of mankind. In Taiwan, Taichung County has been famous for its traditional weaving and knitting art patterns. One of the major tasks of the Knitting Museum of Taichung County Cultural Center (KMTCCC) is to discover and collect different kinds of braids, weaves, knits, dyes, and embroideries throughout Taiwan. By displaying such items, the museum promotes and educates general public about traditional and modern art practices in the region. To share these resources and conform to the Value-added Program of the National Science Council (NSC), the purpose of study was to integrate most of the KMTCCC's archives and collections into a Plant Dyeing and Knitting Art Digital Learning and Value-added Center. This center is a valuable resource for the academic, industrial, and business sectors. For the academic sector, the learning center integrates the latest technological developments and research into a digital learning environment for interested users. For the industry sector, the center provides a platform for related artistic groups and industries to promote the development of new products and design unique products and brands for specific marketing. For business, an online purchasing and bidding system establishes a network for artists and creators to sell their plant dyeing and knitting products. This study used documentary analysis, field study, and questionnaire survey methods to construct the Plant Dyeing, Weaving, and Knitting Art Digital Learning and Value-added Center. The research began with collecting traditional dyeing, weaving, and knitting artworks and related literary materials to develop digital contents of the academic sector. Meanwhile, the study conducted many field studies to collect and assemble Taiwan’s plant dyeing, weaving, and knitting database. Due to the constraints of time, budget, and human resource, a questionnaire survey was used as a supplementary method to construct the database. The main contribution of this project was to consolidate information sources on knitting art and dyeing materials, and to apply this data for the benefit of the academic, industrial, and business sectors. The results of the Plant Dyeing, Weaving, and Knitting Art Digital Learning and Value-added Center consist of ”Dyeing Center,” ”Plant Dyeing, Weaving, and Knitting Education Center,” ”Dyeing and Design Center,” ”On-line Interactive Learning Center,” ”Plant Dyeing, Weaving, and Knitting Blog,” ”Plant Dyeing, Weaving, and Knitting Resource Database,” ”e-Market,” and ”Promotion Activities of Plant Dyeing, Weaving, and Knitting Arts and Culture” The Plant Dyeing, Weaving, and Knitting Art Digital Learning and Value-added Center can be retrieved from: http://www.med8th.com/readingroom/flydz/d16z.htm

El objetivo principal que se plantea es el estudio del trabajo femenino en la industria textil de Andalucía (España). Para ello, en primer lugar, se analizan los tipos de contratos laborales, tanto formales como informales o explícitos por los que se regulaba el trabajo en la industria textil de lana, seda y lino en la Andalucía del siglo XVIII. Se utiliza la información de las respuestas particulares o memoriales del Catastro de Ensenada (1751-52) correspondientes a Laujar de Andarax (Almería) y Úbeda (Jaén). A continuación, se comparan dichos contratos con los que se establecían en la agricultura, ganadería y el sector servicios de esas mismas localidades. Finalmente, se analizan las diferencias que existían en los contratos laborales femeninos respecto a los masculinos. En esta aportación, tras la introducción se aborda el contexto socio-económico de las localidades analizadas, la actividad textil desarrollada en ellas dentro del entorno andaluz de mediados del siglo xviii, para terminar con el estudio de los contratos formales y los acuerdos informales de trabajo y las rentas anuales que se obtenían en la manufactura textil en comparación con las restantes actividades laborales de mujeres y hombres. Se termina con las correspondientes conclusiones.

Studies on Asian business clans have highlighted the importance of networks in business operations. However, there has been less attention on social ties as an instrument to influence and maintain business ties. Despite being present and contributing substantially to the Pakistan economy, little is known about Talukaat, a form of business clan. Indeed, its role in business performance notwithstanding, there is a paucity of knowledge regarding its nature and formation. In this regard, this study seeks to contribute to knowledge about Asian business clans particularly by exploring Talukaat in the context of the textile industry in Pakistan. To examine Talukaat, this thesis sought to answer three exploratory research questions which were drawn from the literature (i) to develop an understanding of what Talukaats are (ii) how they operate and (iii) how they compare to other Asian business clans. The thesis utilised Social Network Theory as a theoretical lens to examine Talukaat. To answer the research questions and offer detailed perspectives on Talukaat, an inductive approach was adopted. This approach, together with the epistemological stance of interpretivism involved the use of semi-structured interviews, observation guides, and a snowball sampling technique. This research methodology was used to explore the in-depth knowledge of business managers operating in Pakistan’s textiles industry. The findings suggest that business ties are underpinned by social ties, and the two are inseparable. It also came to light that, networks formed in businesses operate through shared social values, preventing opportunism and maintaining solidarity in them. From the findings, a definition of Talukaat was drawn to highlight the main features of the network: a closed but informal network that relies on direct social ties based on a number of constructs including kinship, community, friendship, trust, collectivism, reciprocity and facilitative professionalism which is influenced by shared social values. Moreover, the findings provide a better understanding of the role Talukaat plays in the textile industry in Pakistan. A comparison of Talukaat network to three other Asian clans: Japanese Keiretsu, Chinese Guanxi and Arabic Wasta revealed that, all three are closed networks implying there is limited access of ‘outsiders’ to the network. Compared to Chinese Guanxi, Talukaat showed extensive influence over business decisions whereas, Japanese Keiretsu and Arabic Wasta do not. The thesis makes important contributions to knowledge by exploring Talukaat, and in so doing adding an additional facet to the examination of business clan networks, and more importantly from an Asian perspective. The thesis has also revealed that managerial decision making in the Pakistani textile industry is influenced by Talukaat and this has wider implications on business networks and operations.

The garment sector represents the 80% of the national export and counts USD 19 billion revenues; these numbers describe the sector as the most important manufacturing industry in Bangladesh. The social contribution by some selected sample mills was 0.813% of total net profit. It is also found that social responsibilities of sample mills regarding the payment of wages were not satisfactory. 53.33% of total sample mills pay minimum wages of Tk. 3000 to 3500 and none pays above Tk. 4000 per month during the study period for their workers. The minimum wages were not sufficient for the workers to maintain standard of livings as per market price and cost of living. This fosters labor unrest and unpleasant social, ecological and economic condition. It is also observed that 82% of the total workers regarded cotton and fabric dust as the principal reasons behind major health problems. 44.66% of them claimed the huge sound menace, 29.33% of them defined dyeing effluent as major causes of health problems, 19.33% of total respondents claimed the lack of pure drinking water and 19.33% of them claimed the inadequate number of latrines as the principal reasons of occupational health hazards. According to the stakeholder’s opinion about sample mills’ responsibility toward consumers, it is found that 42% of total stakeholders opined that textile business discharged minimum responsibility and 20% of them told that they did not perform any responsibility to the consumers in Bangladesh. The present study was also observed the level of occupational stress, mental health as well as associated factors in the textile industries.

Facing the challenges from market, ROC’s textile industry has transformed toward developing high additive value products, own brands and marketing channels. On the way toward this transformation, the players of ROC’s textile chemicals industry also have to think how to ally with textile industry, effectively use the resources of textile industry and marketing strategies to develop high added value functional chemicals and own brands. This study is to study the successful and unsuccessful “brand alliance” cases in the textile chemicals industry. To give textile chemicals suppliers a reference on how to apply “brand alliance” strategy for their brands. The findings of this study are: 1. textile chemicals industry is worthy for local companies to put more resources for developing markets. 2. For functional textiles chemicals, the players can use “co-branding” strategy to ally with other companies in the vertical or horizontal value who are complementary and have the same interests to share mutual resources for developing market. Leveraging the power of ROC’s sound textile industry structure, exercising brand alliance strategies as a whole to strengthen international competitiveness.

The study was conducted to investigate the soil quality including heavy metal concentrations in agricultural lands around dyeing, glass and textile industries at Tangail district of Bangladesh. A total of nine samples, three samples from each industrial site, were collected at a depth of 0-15 cm with an interval of 10 m from each point of the agricultural lands adjacent to selected industries for analyzing the soil chemical properties such as pH, OM, total N, available P and S including heavy metals (Pb, Cd, Ni, Cu and Cr) concentrations. The study found soil pH of 6.4 and 6.1 around textile and glass industry, respectively, while comparatively lower pH (4.4) was observed around dyeing industry. Comparatively higher levels of OM, total N, available P and S were found in soil around dyeing industry, whereas lower levels of OM and available S were observed around textile industry. The Cu, Pb and Cr were the dominant heavy metal around dyeing, glass and textile industry, respectivelyJ. Environ. Sci. & Natural Resources, 10(2): 109-116 2017

Textile and clothing in Ancient Egypt have carried long history and tradition. Especially, Egyptian textile culture, created mostly by the Copt, has the originality of weaving technology and the artistic beauty of the weaving motifs, making the textiles comparable to modern textiles. The purpose of this study is to research on the characteristics of Coptic textile designs of ancient Egypt and the tunic, a basic garment made of Coptic textiles, and offer materials for the development of the textiles and designs with artistic values which can be shared in the modern era, not just for the research of the relics of the past. Therefore, this study will follow the historical background of Coptic textiles and the process of the development, and look into the distinct features under the categories of material, colors and motifs. In addition, the tunic and its weaving technology will be explained and this will help understand the originality of Coptic textiles. The scope of this study is limited to the period of the 3rd to 12th centuries when the Egyptian weaving technologies advanced dramatically and many of the ancient Egyptian textiles discovered from the grave goods dates back, the research methode of the tunic as well as books published at home and abroad, research paper and photograph works. The textiles had developed along the Egyptian history which was influenced by different cultures such as Greek, Roman, pagan, Christian, and later, Islamic. For the textiles, they used a variety of pictorial motifs including Greek goddesses, pastoral scenes related to the Nile River and animals, human figures, geometrical figures and Christian icons. They are symbolic, natural, and mythological characters, and this explains that the world views and religions of the weavers influenced the development of specific motifs. Coptic textiles was used to make a tunic, a simple straight-sided gown without sleeves worn by men and women and was woven in a combination of linen plain weave and woolen tapestry weave for a tunic. Not only the excellence of the weaving technologies and the beauty of the colors used in the textiles, but also the diversity of the textures through weaving, embroidery, and knotting are detected in Coptic textiles.

Introduction: Noise is one of the hazardous factors in work places such as textile industries. The objective of this study is to determine noise pollution in textile industries in Kermanshah (2001). Materials & Methods: This study is an analytical-descriptive one. The study was done in 2 steps. In the first step the characteristics of the work place & buildings were completely determined; then according to the method of ISO & NOISH; the buildings were divided in 2*2 squares and the level of sound pressure was measured. The noise was analyzed and the SIL factor was calculated by using the results. In the second step, by using a chronometer, time was measured, job analysis was done and the Leq factor was measured. The results were compared with the standard by using Z statistical method. Results: The results showed that the level of noise was 93.44±3.28 db, which was higher than the standard (P<0.05). This study also showed that the level of pressure of noise was high in frequencies of 500–4000 HZ. The level of speech interference in these industrial group was 78.51±2.3 and that of Leq was 87.9±3.23 which showed that the Leq factor was higher than the standard (P<0.05). Conclusion: According to the above results we can conclude that controlling noise pollution in textile industries is very important. The spectrum of noise showed that the level of interference of sound was high.

Wastewater effluents from textile industry mainly contain dyes used in the dyeing or printing of textiles yarns or fabrics. A lot of technologies can be adopted for dye removal from wastewaters, including biological treatments based on activated sludge, adsorption on activated carbon, or membrane processes. Nevertheless, none of these methods is performing toward all classes of dyes; treatment plants of great dimensions and difficult handling can be required, while costs can be prohibitive. In a previous work we cationized cotton obtaining a strong improvement of dyes adsorption. In the present work, a cotton fabric was more eco-friendly functionalized by chitosan UV grafting and used as dyes adsorbent. The process parameters for the fabric treatment were optimized in terms of chitosan add-on, impregnation time, temperature, pH, radiation time and curing intensity. The cotton grafted by chitosan was characterized by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM), Fourier Transform Infrared analysis in Attenuated Total Reflection (FTIR-ATR) and X-ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy (XPS). The material was then tested towards different dye classes: acid, reactive and direct dyes. Batch, kinetic as well as continuous flow assessment tests were carried out, evaluating the adsorption capacity by spectrophotometric measurements. Moreover the influence of pH as well as temperature on the adsorbent capacity of the functionalized cotton were investigated. The material showed good adsorption capacity and very high adsorption rate toward all the investigated dyes. Moreover, by assembling the functionalized cotton in a filter form, good adsorption capacity is ensured even at 25 degrees C, with good behaviour in terms of filter exhaustion and pressure drop while a positive influence on adsorption capacity was displayed in acid conditions. Finally, regeneration tests by NaOH solution were carried out, with a good release of the adsorbed dye. In conclusion, obtained results show good perspectives for chitosan treated cotton use in wastewater filtration

Tekstil endustrisinde kullanilan cesitli boyarmaddeler uretim surecinde alici ortamlara buyuk miktarlarda desarj edilmektedir. Bu durum, cevre ve insan sagligi ile ilgili telafisi zor olan bir surecin baslangicini olusturmaktadir. Bu nedenle gerek kirlenmis alanlarin temizlenmesinde ve gerekse kirletici potansiyeli olan teknolojilerin biyolojik yaklasimlarla butunlestirilmesi ile tekstil endustrisinin bir atigi olan boyarmaddelerin olusturacagi kirlilik azaltilabilecektir. Bu calisma kapsaminda ticari olarak piyasada satilan bir kot boyasinin Trametes versicolor ATCC 200801’in bugday kepegi iceren potato dekstroz broth besiyerinde gelistirilmesi ile elde edilen lakkaz aktivitesi yuksek kultur sivisi ile renk giderimi calisilmis ve optimum kosullar belirlenmistir. Yapilan deneyler sonucunda pH 4.0, baslangic boya konsantrasyonu 75 mg/l, sicaklik 55 oC, inkubasyon suresi ise 120 dakika olarak secilmistir. Belirlenen optimum kosullarda % 68.02 renk giderimi elde edilmistir. Bununla birlikte, boya cozeltisi icerisine tekstil atik sularinda bulunabilecek cesitli metal iyonlari ve kumas boyama isleminde kullanilan yardimci kimyasal maddeler reaksiyon ortamina ilave edilerek, gelistirilmeye calisilan renk giderim potansiyeli uzerine olasi etkileri arastirilmistir. Elde edilen veriler degerlendirildiginde, belirlenen optimum kosullarda denenen kirleticilerin renk giderimini genel olarak olumsuz yonde etkilemedigi gorulmektedir. En fazla inhibe edici etkinin goruldugu 10 mM Tween 80 varliginda bile % 54.68 duzeyinde bir renk giderimi elde edilmistir

Dyeing and printing of textile being a traditional industry of Kancheepuram town, a good number of textile industries along with dyeing and printing clusters have come up in the area. The dyeing units in Kancheepuram municipality and the surrounding villages are under constant threat of ground water contamination with chemicals of dyes. The present study evaluates the groundwater quality in and around the Kancheepuram town of Tamil Nadu with reference to drinking and irrigation purposes. Twenty groundwater samples were collected from various parts of the dyeing industrial region and the samples were analysed with standard analytic methods. The concentrations of total dissolved solids (1138 to 2574 mg/L), chloride (216 to 847 mg/L), total hardness (225 to 760 mg/L), sulphate (64 to 536 mg/L), nitrate (up to 58 mg/L), iron (up to 2.3 mg/L) and lead (up to 0.281 mg/L) were found to be higher and exceeded the permissible limits of BIS and WHO standards. The user specific water quality indices (USWQI) of each groundwater sample were evaluated for both purposes. The USWQI of the groundwater samples varied from 85 to 30 for drinking purpose and 89 to 50 for irrigation purpose. The results show that, the groundwater quality in the present study area can be categorized under 'good' for irrigation purpose and 'fair' for drinking purpose. Access to safe drinking water supply is one of the basic needs of society and hence a comprehensive plan of action is sought to curb groundwater contamination in the studied region.

Leiden was once the foremost textile city in Europe. Under ‘de nieuwe draperie’ (the new cloth industry, from 1580), a wide variety of woollen textiles were produced. At the pinnacle of this industry the city had no fewer than seven cloth halls. Merchants, makers and weavers usually worked from home, appearing at the hall at set times to have their semi- finished or finished products inspected for quality. Thus broadcloth weavers went to the Lakenhal (Cloth Hall) and the serge weavers to the Saaihal (Serge Hall). The economic historian N.W. Posthumus summarized this strictly regulated craft system as ‘no occupation without a hall, no hall without an occupation’. This article draws on occupational data in seven tax assessment registers and two censuses from the period 1498-1748 to investigate whether the location of the halls influenced the settlementpattern of cloth merchants, makers and weavers.In other words, was the distance between home andhall a determining factor in where people chose to live? For this purpose the city was divided into eight districts. An occupational concentration is categorized as clustered when more than one third of a particular occupational group lived in the district concerned. Within this a distinction has been made between moderate clustering (33-49%), strong clustering (50-65%) and very strong clustering (over 66%). The clustering of cloth merchants in Leiden changed over time. Whereas in the Middle Ages there were high concentrations of cloth buyers and dealers in the historical centre where the Lakenhal was then situated, by the Early Modern period the wealthy textile merchants (shipowners) had moved on. In 1581 they were clusteredin the Zuid and Oost-nieuw districts, once againclose to the Lakenhal, which was then situated on theSteenschuur canal. In 1674 there was a strong concentrationin Noord-nieuw, the district where the Lakenhad been located since 1640. Thus in each of the referenceyears, the cloth merchants were to be found in thevicinity of the cloth hall. The surmise that, in addition to ‘no occupation without a hall, no hall without an occupation’, a case of ‘no hall without a clustered occupational group’ prevailed is reinforced by the distribution of cloth makers, cloth weavers, serge makers and serge weavers. In 1674 there was a strong concentration of both cloth makers and cloth weavers in Noord-nieuw. There were, however, no serge makers or weavers in Noord-nieuw; they were concentrated in areas closer to the Saaihal (Oost-oud and Zuid). This study reveals clusters of seven textile-related occupations in various districts. In each instance there was a cluster in or adjacent to the location of the associated hall. On their own, individual occupations would provide insufficient grounds for concluding that the house–hall distance was a determining factor for locating a business, but taken together, the seven occupations provide enough indications in that direction in the period 1498 to 1674. This tendency of living close to the hall does not mean that prosperity played no role at all, because even within a limited walking distance from the hall it was still possible to live in a desirable area.

CHINA'S ROLE IN WORLD COTTON AND TEXTILE MARKETS