Abstract

This study investigates surf zone wave heating due to the dissipation of breaking wave energy by using the Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics method. We evaluate the surf zone wave heating by examining the increase of internal energy of the system, which is computed based on the conservation of energy. The equivalent temperature profile is calculated based on a simple conversion relationship between energy and temperature. We first examine the surf zone wave heating based on long-crested wave breaking over a planar beach, and we consider spilling breaker and weakly plunging breaker. Numerical results show that breaking of water waves in the surf zone increases the internal energy of water body. Furthermore, the dissipation of incident wave energy is fully converted into the internal energy in a thermally isolated system, confirming the energy conservation of the present numerical approach. It is further found that the long-crested wave breaking generates undertow, which transports the generated wave heating from the surf zone to deep waters. We further carry out numerical experiments to examine surf zone wave heating due to short-crested wave breaking over a beach. The internal energy generation mainly follows the isolated wave breakers, and there is a 3D pattern of wave heating due to the complicated wave breaking process and current system. In general, the magnitude of the generated internal energy or temperature by dissipation of breaking wave energy in the surf zone is relatively small. The present study shows that the generated water temperature is in the order of 10^-3 Kelvin for wave breaking over a typical coastal beach.

Highlights

  • Wave breaking in the surf zone drives complicated turbulent structures (Nadaoka et al, 1989; Lakehal and Liovic, 2011; Wei et al, 2018)

  • The present work concerns the role of wave breaking in dissipating energy, and the transfer of incident wave energy into wave heating based on the principle of energy conservation in an isolated system

  • This study presents a numerical study of surf zone wave heating generated by energy dissipation of breaking waves using the open-source GPUSPH model

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Summary

SURF ZONE WAVE HEATING BY ENERGY DISSIPATION OF BREAKING WAVES

This study investigates surf zone wave heating due to the dissipation of breaking wave energy by using the Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics method. We evaluate the surf zone wave heating by examining the increase of internal energy of the system, which is computed based on the conservation of energy. We first examine the surf zone wave heating based on long-crested wave breaking over a planar beach, and we consider spilling breaker and weakly plunging breaker. It is further found that the long-crested wave breaking generates undertow, which transports the generated wave heating from the surf zone to deep waters. We further carry out numerical experiments to examine surf zone wave heating due to short-crested wave breaking over a beach. The magnitude of the generated internal energy or temperature by dissipation of breaking wave energy in the surf zone is relatively small.

INTRODUCTION
NUMERICAL MODEL
Du Dt
The rate of strain tensor is defined by
Numerical experiments
Wave heating transport by undertows
Energy budget
ECg gH
Findings
CONCLUSIONS
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