Long–wave forcing by the breaking of random gravity waves on a beach

Abstract

Restricted accessMoreSectionsView PDF ToolsAdd to favoritesDownload CitationsTrack Citations ShareShare onFacebookTwitterLinked InRedditEmail Cite this article Baldock T. E. and Huntley D. A. 2002Long–wave forcing by the breaking of random gravity waves on a beachProc. R. Soc. Lond. A.4582177–2201http://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2002.0962SectionRestricted accessLong–wave forcing by the breaking of random gravity waves on a beach T. E. Baldock T. E. Baldock Department of Civil Engineering, University of Queensland, St Lucia, Queensland 4072, Australia Google Scholar Find this author on PubMed Search for more papers by this author and D. A. Huntley D. A. Huntley Institute of Marine Studies, University of Plymouth, Drake Circus, Plymouth PL4 8AA, UK Google Scholar Find this author on PubMed Search for more papers by this author T. E. Baldock T. E. Baldock Department of Civil Engineering, University of Queensland, St Lucia, Queensland 4072, Australia Google Scholar Find this author on PubMed Search for more papers by this author and D. A. Huntley D. A. Huntley Institute of Marine Studies, University of Plymouth, Drake Circus, Plymouth PL4 8AA, UK Google Scholar Find this author on PubMed Search for more papers by this author Published:08 September 2002https://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2002.0962AbstractThis paper presents new laboratory data on long–wave (surf–beat) forcing by the random breaking of shorter gravity water waves on a plane beach. The data include incident and outgoing wave amplitudes, together with shoreline oscillation amplitudes at long–wave frequencies, from which the correlation between forced long waves and short–wave groups is examined. A detailed analysis of the cross–shore structure of the long–wave motion is presented, and the observations are critically compared with existing theories for two–dimensional surf–beat generation. The surf beat shows a strong dependency on normalized surf–zone width, consistent with long–wave forcing by a time–varying breakpoint, with little evidence of the release and reflection of incident bound long waves for the random–wave simulations considered. The seaward–propagating long waves show a positive correlation with incident short–wave groups and are linearly dependent on short–wave amplitude. The phase relationship between the incident bound long waves and radiated free long waves is also consistent with breakpoint forcing. In combination with previous work, the present data suggest that the breakpoint variability may be the dominant forcing mechanism during conditions with steep incident short waves. Previous ArticleNext Article VIEW FULL TEXT DOWNLOAD PDF FiguresRelatedReferencesDetailsCited by Huntley D and Bryan K (2022) Waves Treatise on Geomorphology, 10.1016/B978-0-12-818234-5.00087-0, (42-82), . Melito L, Parlagreco L, Devoti S and Brocchini M (2022) Wave‐ and Tide‐Induced Infragravity Dynamics at an Intermediate‐To‐Dissipative Microtidal Beach, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 10.1029/2021JC017980, 127:4, Online publication date: 1-Apr-2022. Zhang C, Li Y, Cai Y, Shi J, Zheng J, Cai F and Qi H (2021) Parameterization of nearshore wave breaker index, Coastal Engineering, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.103914, 168, (103914), Online publication date: 1-Sep-2021. Maravelakis N, Kalligeris N, Lynett P, Skanavis V and Synolakis C (2021) Wave overtopping due to harbour resonance, Coastal Engineering, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.103973, 169, (103973), Online publication date: 1-Oct-2021. Kimmoun O, Hsu H, Hoffmann N and Chabchoub A (2021) Experiments on uni-directional and nonlinear wave group shoaling, Ocean Dynamics, 10.1007/s10236-021-01485-6, 71:11-12, (1105-1112), Online publication date: 1-Dec-2021. Power H (2020) Breaking waves Sandy Beach Morphodynamics, 10.1016/B978-0-08-102927-5.00006-0, (103-130), . Poate T, Masselink G, Austin M, Inch K, Dickson M and McCall R (2020) Infragravity wave generation on shore platforms: Bound long wave versus breakpoint forcing, Geomorphology, 10.1016/j.geomorph.2019.106880, 350, (106880), Online publication date: 1-Feb-2020. Lashley C, Bricker J, van der Meer J, Altomare C and Suzuki T (2020) Relative Magnitude of Infragravity Waves at Coastal Dikes with Shallow Foreshores: A Prediction Tool, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000576, 146:5, (04020034), Online publication date: 1-Sep-2020. Zhang Q, Toorman E and Monbaliu J (2020) Shoaling of bound infragravity waves on plane slopes for bichromatic wave conditions, Coastal Engineering, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103684, 158, (103684), Online publication date: 1-Jun-2020. Power H, Gharabaghi B, Bonakdari H, Robertson B, Atkinson A and Baldock T (2019) Prediction of wave runup on beaches using Gene-Expression Programming and empirical relationships, Coastal Engineering, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2018.10.006, 144, (47-61), Online publication date: 1-Feb-2019. Ruju A, Lara J and Losada I (2019) Numerical Assessment of Infragravity Swash Response to Offshore Wave Frequency Spread Variability, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 10.1029/2019JC015063, 124:9, (6643-6657), Online publication date: 1-Sep-2019. Torres-Freyermuth A, Pintado-Patiño J, Pedrozo-Acuña A, Puleo J and Baldock T (2019) Runup uncertainty on planar beaches, Ocean Dynamics, 10.1007/s10236-019-01305-y, 69:11-12, (1359-1371), Online publication date: 1-Dec-2019. Padilla E and Alsina J (2018) Long Wave Generation Induced by Differences in the Wave‐Group Structure, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 10.1029/2018JC014213, 123:12, (8921-8940), Online publication date: 1-Dec-2018. Contardo S, Symonds G and Dufois F (2018) Breakpoint Forcing Revisited: Phase Between Forcing and Response, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 10.1002/2017JC013138, 123:2, (1354-1363), Online publication date: 1-Feb-2018. Bertin X, de Bakker A, van Dongeren A, Coco G, André G, Ardhuin F, Bonneton P, Bouchette F, Castelle B, Crawford W, Davidson M, Deen M, Dodet G, Guérin T, Inch K, Leckler F, McCall R, Muller H, Olabarrieta M, Roelvink D, Ruessink G, Sous D, Stutzmann É and Tissier M (2018) Infragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts, Earth-Science Reviews, 10.1016/j.earscirev.2018.01.002, 177, (774-799), Online publication date: 1-Feb-2018. Choi J, Roh M and Hwang H Observing the Laboratory Interaction of Undertow and Nonlinear Wave Motion over Barred and Nonbarred Beaches to Determine Beach Profile Evolution in the Surf Zone, Journal of Coastal Research, 10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-17-00106.1, 34:6, (1449) Padilla E and Alsina J (2017) Transfer and dissipation of energy during wave group propagation on a gentle beach slope, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 10.1002/2017JC012703, 122:8, (6773-6794), Online publication date: 1-Aug-2017. Moura T and Baldock T (2017) Remote sensing of the correlation between breakpoint oscillations and infragravity waves in the surf and swash zone, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 10.1002/2016JC012233, 122:4, (3106-3122), Online publication date: 1-Apr-2017. Bertin X, Olabarrieta M and McCall R (2017) Hydrodynamics Under Storm Conditions Coastal Storms, 10.1002/9781118937099.ch2, (23-43) Inch K, Davidson M, Masselink G and Russell P (2017) Observations of nearshore infragravity wave dynamics under high energy swell and wind-wave conditions, Continental Shelf Research, 10.1016/j.csr.2017.02.010, 138, (19-31), Online publication date: 1-Apr-2017. Bertin X and Olabarrieta M (2016) Relevance of infragravity waves in a wave-dominated inlet, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 10.1002/2015JC011444, 121:8, (5418-5435), Online publication date: 1-Aug-2016. Alsina J, Padilla E and Cáceres I (2016) Sediment transport and beach profile evolution induced by bi-chromatic wave groups with different group periods, Coastal Engineering, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.04.020, 114, (325-340), Online publication date: 1-Aug-2016. Su S, Ma G and Hsu T (2015) Boussinesq modeling of spatial variability of infragravity waves on fringing reefs, Ocean Engineering, 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2015.04.022, 101, (78-92), Online publication date: 1-Jun-2015. Seelam J, Jishad M, Yadhunath E, Rajasekaran C, Gowthaman R, Pednekar P, Luis R and Mehra P (2018) Surfzone Wave Characteristics During Flood Tide on the Central West Coast of India, Coastal Engineering Journal, 10.1142/S0578563415500205, 57:4, (1550020-1-1550020-24), Online publication date: 1-Dec-2015. Ruju A, Lara J and Losada I (2014) Numerical analysis of run-up oscillations under dissipative conditions, Coastal Engineering, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2014.01.010, 86, (45-56), Online publication date: 1-Apr-2014. Contardo S and Symonds G (2013) Infragravity response to variable wave forcing in the nearshore, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 10.1002/2013JC009430, 118:12, (7095-7106), Online publication date: 1-Dec-2013. Huntley D (2013) 10.3 Waves Treatise on Geomorphology, 10.1016/B978-0-12-374739-6.00271-2, (39-73), . Lin Y and Hwung H (2012) Infra-gravity wave generation by the shoaling wave groups over beaches, China Ocean Engineering, 10.1007/s13344-012-0001-9, 26:1, (1-18), Online publication date: 1-Mar-2012. Pomeroy A, Lowe R, Symonds G, Van Dongeren A and Moore C (2012) The dynamics of infragravity wave transformation over a fringing reef, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 10.1029/2012JC008310, 117:C11, (n/a-n/a), Online publication date: 1-Nov-2012. Baldock T (2012) Dissipation of incident forced long waves in the surf zone—Implications for the concept of “bound” wave release at short wave breaking, Coastal Engineering, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.11.002, 60, (276-285), Online publication date: 1-Feb-2012. Tonelli M and Petti M (2012) Shock-capturing Boussinesq model for irregular wave propagation, Coastal Engineering, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.11.006, 61, (8-19), Online publication date: 1-Mar-2012. Lara J, Ruju A and Losada I (2010) Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes modelling of long waves induced by a transient wave group on a beach, Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 467:2129, (1215-1242), Online publication date: 8-May-2011. Alsina J and Cáceres I (2011) Sediment suspension events in the inner surf and swash zone. Measurements in large-scale and high-energy wave conditions, Coastal Engineering, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.03.002, 58:8, (657-670), Online publication date: 1-Aug-2011. Guedes R, Bryan K, Coco G and Holman R (2011) The effects of tides on swash statistics on an intermediate beach, Journal of Geophysical Research, 10.1029/2010JC006660, 116:C4 Sánchez-Arcilla A (2011) Scaling, analysis and new instrumentation for dynamic bed tests, Coastal Engineering, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.04.001, 58:7, (579-582), Online publication date: 1-Jul-2011. Zhang Y, Schäffer H, Carr C and O'Neil S (2011) Field Observations and Numerical Modeling of Infragravity Waves Conference on Coastal Engineering Practice 2011, 10.1061/41190(422)73, 9780784411902, (878-891), Online publication date: 30-Aug-2011. Liu X, Lin W and Huang P (2010) Laboratory Study of Low-Frequency Waves Induced by Random Gravity Waves on Sloping Beaches, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000035, 136:3, (127-134), Online publication date: 1-May-2010. Power H, Hughes M, Aagaard T and Baldock T (2010) Nearshore wave height variation in unsaturated surf, Journal of Geophysical Research, 10.1029/2009JC005758, 115:C8 Baldock T, Manoonvoravong P and Pham K (2010) Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups, Coastal Engineering, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2010.05.006, 57:10, (898-916), Online publication date: 1-Oct-2010. Dong G, Ma X, Perlin M, Ma Y, Yu B and Wang G (2009) Experimental study of long wave generation on sloping bottoms, Coastal Engineering, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.002, 56:1, (82-89), Online publication date: 1-Jan-2009. Dong G, Ma X, Xu J, Ma Y and Wang G (2009) Experimental study of the transformation of bound long waves over a mild slope with ambient currents, Coastal Engineering, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.06.010, 56:10, (1035-1042), Online publication date: 1-Oct-2009. Bakhtyar R, Barry D, Li L, Jeng D and Yeganeh-Bakhtiary A (2009) Modeling sediment transport in the swash zone: A review, Ocean Engineering, 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2009.03.003, 36:9-10, (767-783), Online publication date: 1-Jul-2009. Brocchini M and Baldock T (2008) Recent advances in modeling swash zone dynamics: Influence of surf-swash interaction on nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics, Reviews of Geophysics, 10.1029/2006RG000215, 46:3 Baldock T, Kudo A, Guard P, Alsina J and Barnes M (2008) Lagrangian measurements and modelling of fluid advection in the inner surf and swash zones, Coastal Engineering, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.02.013, 55:10, (791-799), Online publication date: 1-Oct-2008. Hwung H and Lin Y (2008) Investigation of the generation of infra-gravity waves, Wave Motion, 10.1016/j.wavemoti.2007.03.007, 45:3, (119-132), Online publication date: 1-Jan-2008. Jannat M and Asano T (2018) External Forces of Sediment Transport in Surf and Swash Zones Induced by Wave Groups and Their Associated Long Waves, Coastal Engineering Journal, 10.1142/S0578563407001575, 49:2, (205-227), Online publication date: 1-Jun-2007. Karunarathna H and Chadwick A (2007) On low-frequency waves in the surf and swash, Ocean Engineering, 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2007.05.006, 34:16, (2115-2123), Online publication date: 1-Nov-2007. Guard P and Baldock T (2007) The influence of seaward boundary conditions on swash zone hydrodynamics, Coastal Engineering, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2006.10.004, 54:4, (321-331), Online publication date: 1-Apr-2007. Baldock T (2006) Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach, Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 462:2070, (1853-1876), Online publication date: 8-Jun-2006. Li P and Wen Y (2006) Energy Harvesting Transducer by Collecting Electromagnetic Energy Based on Ultrasonic Horn 2006 IEEE International Conference on Information Acquisition, 10.1109/ICIA.2006.305772, 1-4244-0528-9, (550-555) Baldock T and Hughes M (2006) Field observations of instantaneous water slopes and horizontal pressure gradients in the swash-zone, Continental Shelf Research, 10.1016/j.csr.2006.02.003, 26:5, (574-588), Online publication date: 1-Apr-2006. Ping Li and Yumei Wen Self-Powered Wireless Sensor by Collecting Electromagnetic Energy in Inhomogeneous Structure IEEE Sensors, 2005., 10.1109/ICSENS.2005.1597629, 0-7803-9056-3, (28-31) Battjes J (2004) Shoaling of subharmonic gravity waves, Journal of Geophysical Research, 10.1029/2003JC001863, 109:C2, . Janssen T (2003) Long waves induced by short-wave groups over a sloping bottom, Journal of Geophysical Research, 10.1029/2002JC001515, 108:C8, . Ruessink B, Walstra D and Southgate H (2003) Calibration and verification of a parametric wave model on barred beaches, Coastal Engineering, 10.1016/S0378-3839(03)00023-1, 48:3, (139-149), Online publication date: 1-Jun-2003. Mahmoudof S (2018) Investigation of Infragravity Waves Dependency on Wind Waves for Breaking and Nonbreaking Conditions in the Sandy Beaches of Southern Caspian Sea (Nowshahr Port), International Journal of coastal and offshore engineering, 10.29252/ijcoe.1.4.13, 1:4, (13-20) Riefolo L, Contestabile P, Dentale F and Benassai G (2018) Low Frequency Waves Detected in a Large Wave Flume under Irregular Waves with Different Grouping Factor and Combination of Regular Waves, Water, 10.3390/w10020228, 10:2, (228) Hamza W, Tomasicchio G, Ligorio F, Lusito L and Francone A (2019) A Nourishment Performance Index for Beach Erosion/Accretion at Saadiyat Island in Abu Dhabi, Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 10.3390/jmse7060173, 7:6, (173) Seyed Alipur S, Siadatmousavi S and Mahmoudof S (2020) Improving the Simulation of Depth-induced Breaking in the Third-Generation Wave Model SWAN, مهندسی دریا, 10.29252/marineeng.16.31.53, 16:31, (53-64) Moura T and Baldock T (2019) The Influence of Free Long Wave Generation on the Shoaling of Forced Infragravity Waves, Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 10.3390/jmse7090305, 7:9, (305) Yang J, Zhu S, Li X, Zhang W and Wang L (2013) The Review of Studies on Formulas for Calculating Wave Breaking Height, Applied Mechanics and Materials, 10.4028/www.scientific.net/AMM.392.958, 392, (958-961) Contardo S, Symonds G, Segura L, Lowe R and Hansen J (2019) Infragravity Wave Energy Partitioning in the Surf Zone in Response to Wind-Sea and Swell Forcing, Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 10.3390/jmse7110383, 7:11, (383) This Issue08 September 2002Volume 458Issue 2025 Article InformationDOI:https://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2002.0962Published by:Royal SocietyPrint ISSN:1364-5021Online ISSN:1471-2946History: Published online08/09/2002Published in print08/09/2002 License: Citations and impact Keywordsgravity water wavessurf beatbreaking wavesrandom waveslong wavesbeaches