Abstract
Thistle oil (INCI: Silybum marianum seed oil) is known as an anti-oxidant, moisturizing and skin regenerating cosmetic raw material. Nanoemulsions are a new form of cosmetic product showing very good user properties (ease of spreading over the skin with no greasy feeling). Moreover, due to their structure, they can also transport both hydrophilic and hydrophobic active substances to the skin. The aim of this work was the preparation and characterization of nanoemulsions, based on thistle oil. The non-ionic surfactants polysorbate 80 (PEG-20 sorbitan monooleate), decyl glucoside, and a polyglyceryl-4 ester blend were applied to stabilize the nanosystems. All formulations were obtained by a high energy method, using an ultrasonic device (Labsonic U, an ultrasound homogenizer). Variations in the emulsification parameters were tested, including surfactants concentration, pre-emulsification time, ultrasound power and sonication time. On the basis of statistical analysis (experimental design, cluster analysis, classification and regression trees) the best emulsification process parameters were determined. In order to verify the results of statistical analysis, once more an experimental study was conducted. The results obtained confirmed that statistical analysis can be a useful method in determining the conditions for obtaining stable nanoemulsions with desired properties. Formulations obtained with the use of Silybum marianum seed oil were characterized by long-term stability, a low polydispersity index, low viscosity and an average droplet size less than 200 nm.
Highlights
Thistle oil (Silybum marianum seed oil) is known as a rich source of silymarin, and flavonolignans such as silybin, isosilybin, silydianin and silychristin
Nanoemulsions are a new form of cosmetic product showing very good user properties
Nanoemulsions consisted of thistle oil, surfactant and deionized water
Summary
Thistle oil (Silybum marianum seed oil) is known as a rich source of silymarin, and flavonolignans such as silybin, isosilybin, silydianin and silychristin. Topical treatments containing silymarin reduce wrinkles in human skin [1,2,3,4]. Nanoemulsions are isotropic, kinetically stable dispersions of oil and water, stabilized by an interfacial film of surfactant molecules [5, 6]. They show some advantages compared to classic emulsions. Due to the very small droplet size (20–500 nm) nanoemulsions penetrate into the skin relatively with increased bioavailability. These preparations have been the focus of many research teams because of their wide range of applications in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic and chemical industries [7,8,9,10,11,12]
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