Mesures de vagues extrêmes le long de falaises rocheuses escarpées, île de Banneg, archipel de Molène, Bretagne

Abstract

Investigating waves in the nearshore zone is of key importance for coastal management, marine spatial planning, coastal risk mitigation and also for the understanding of coastal geomorphology. Among the existing systems to measure wave parameters in the nearhsore, the deployment of pressure sensors in the intertidal zone is an easy, low cost and energy-efficient solution. This solution extensively used to investigate the hydrodynamics of sandy beaches, has been less used in the case of steep rocky cliffs where the breaking process can be extremely energetic. Hence, the instruments deployed in such environments need to be able to resist extreme conditions. In this study, we present the pressure-sensor based measurement of wave parameters deployed on Banneg Isalnd, in the Molène archipelago, during four consecutive winters. This system is adequate for extreme wave conditions and can be used for long-term monitoring.