Mechanical and Physical Properties Of Suiting Fabrics That Affect Seam Head Size In Enclosed Seams

Abstract

Bending of fabric is a low‐stress mode of fabric deformation that makes apparel construction possible and is influenced by fiber, yarn, and fabric properties. Gar ment sections are sewn on designated stitching lines, but for enclosed seams, where all fabric layers bend in one direction, a seam head forms between the line of stitching and the fold of fabric and distortion occurs. This research investi gated the effects of flexural rigidity, fiber content, thickness, and grain on seam head size in woven suiting fabrics. Seam heads were measured by photographing the cross sections of the enclosed seams. Flexural rigidity had a correlation coef ficient of 0.940 to seam head size. Fiber and thickness had statistically significant effects, and there was a significant interaction between fiber and grain on seam head size. Thickness, fiber, and grain are easily assessed and can be used to predict fabric behavior in enclosed seams.