Abstract

The Indian darzi (tailor) used his skills astutely to deliver a piece of clothing demonstrating economical usage of fabric, easy fit and adjustable sizes using straight lines and geometrically shaped components. Three key elements of traditional Indian methods of pattern making i.e. use of simple straight lines, gussets to provide fit and ease of movement and bias to achieve three-dimensional fits have been researched as an attempt to use them in a simplified form for modern mass manufacturing practices. Traditional Indian finishing techniques such as sinjaf (facing), ghundi and tukama (fabric buttons and loops) have also been incorporated. Metric pattern cutting and draping methods following traditional methods of measurements and pattern making have been tried along with innovative techniques such as elimination of seam lines, raising or lowering waistlines and combining gussets into adjacent panels. This research has lead to the development of new pattern making techniques that can be applied to global fashion.

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