Influence of reef flat submergence on infra-gravity wave energy and resonance over the fringing reef

Abstract

Fringing reefs which are common nearshore islands with coral reef growth have special topography of very steep slope on the fore-reef and mild slope on the wide flat. When incident waves propagate from a very deep water region (from hundreds of meters to thousands of meters of depth) to approaching the reef they abruptly commence a very shallow water (only few centimeters to several meters of depth) and create strong hydrodynamic processes on the reef flat. Due to shallow depth, waves feel the bottom and break in the area of fore-reef slope and reef crest and partial reef flat. Infra-gravity waves (IG), other name as bound long waves or surf beat, which belong to low-frequency wave type (0.002Hz ¸ 0.04Hz) are generated by the varying-breaking point mechanism on the shallow reef flat. On the flat, short wave energy is almost dissipated; low-frequency waves are strongly dominated over the surf zone till swash zone. Wave set-up causing an increase of water level on the flat combines with the run-up at the shoreline which can lead to coastal flooding. Besides, if the reef flat length is in the order of one fourth of wavelength the first oscillation resonant mode with standing wave occurs. This component is resonantly amplified at the shoreline relative to the incident infra-gravity wave energy at the reef crest.