Abstract
The objective of this study is to assess an enzymatic effect on the antifelting treatment of yarn and wool fabric. Enzymes, namely, the proteases cardosines A and B, are extracted from the flowers of the cardoon (Cynara cardunculus L) plant. Several conditions of enzymatic treatment are studied in order to optimize the antifelting process and improve shrink proofing. The optimal process is at 40 °C for 2 h in an alkaline medium at pH 10. The results show that the shrinkage of 16.8% for untreated yarn is reduced to 0%, while the shrinkage of 10% for the untreated fabric is reduced to 5%. In addition, the antifelting treatment increases the dye absorbance of a walnut stain (common walnut plant) on the yarn and wool fabric, although the fixation dye rate is decreased. Post oxidation is tested in order to improve the fixation dye rate and the washing fastness of juglone on the wool yarn and fabric.
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