Abstract
AbstractBorn of President François Hollande’s territorial reforms, the new administrative entity constituted by the region Rhône-Alpes-Auvergne has been promoted to the rank of “world valley of gastronomy” through a series of initiatives developed by the city of Lyon. While its goal is to renew our views on food, to enrich them, and give them back a geographic substance erased by industrial activity, organizing an alimentary territorial project cannot be done within a productivity-driven agricultural economy. Therefore, we see emerging in this context the concept of new forms of eating that are better connected to territories. Nowadays, food represents a connection with the world articulated through geographic symbols, connecting those who eat with those who produce. It is meant to be a medium that puts in our bodies (in-corporates) what best constitutes the values of the space we live in. Hence the attachment to “regional” products and dishes that become aspects of our personality. Every wine-producing region today has its own oenotourism routes that allow for the discovery of their landscapes, technical and sensory ecosystems, social imaginary, as well as a whole ensemble of ancestral practices that have been cunningly manipulated through the invention of “traditions.” Their exploration thus becomes a chance to re-appropriate a way of eating that has been taken away from eaters by industrial production.RésuméNée de la réforme territoriale du président François Hollande, la nouvelle entité administrative de la région Rhône-Alpes-Auvergne a été promue grâce à une initiative lyonnaise au rang de “vallée mondiale de la gastronomie” s’étendant aujourd’hui au-delà des frontières (MLyon.fr). Si son objectif est de renouveler le regard sur notre alimentation, de l’enrichir, lui donner une substance géographique que l’industrie avait eu tendance à effacer, organiser des projets de territoire autour de la nourriture ne se pense pas toutefois dans une économie agricole productiviste et industrielle. Ici, émerge alors le concept d’une nouvelle alimentation désormais mieux connectée aux territoires. De nos jours, la nourriture se veut un lien au monde qui passerait par des symboles géographiques, rattachant ceux qui mangent à ceux qui produisent. Elle serait un médium qui permettrait de mettre dans son corps (in-corporer) ce qui constituerait les valeurs des lieux que l’on fréquente. D’où l’attachement aux produits et aux plats “régionaux” qui deviennent une des facettes de nos personnalités. Désormais, chaque région vitivinicole possède ses circuits d’oenotourisme qui permettent de découvrir les vins par leurs paysages, leur écosystème technique et sensoriel, leur imaginaire social et tout un ensemble de pratiques ancestrales qui a été habilement exploité par l’invention de “traditions.” Leur exploration sera l’occasion de se réapproprier une alimentation kidnappée par l’industrie à l’insu des mangeurs.
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