Formulation of Eyeshadow with Butterfly Pea Petal (Clitoria ternatea Linn.) Extract as Natural Coloring Agent

Abstract

<em><span lang="EN-US">The butterfly pea flower (</span></em><span lang="EN-US">Clitoria ternatea </span><em><span lang="EN-US">Linn.) has a blue pigment called ternatin, traditionally used as a food coloring. This study aimed to determine the proper method to extract butterfly pea petals, the optimum ratio of simplicia and solvent, the effect of irritation and allergy, and the stability of the eyeshadow. The research stages were determination and identification, simplicia making, extraction, phytochemical content identification, eyeshadow material preparation, primary irritation evaluation, stability, and hedonic test. Two extraction methods were decoction and maceration with three variants of simplicia and solvent ratios, </span></em><span lang="EN-US">e.g.,</span><em><span lang="EN-US"> 1:5, 1:10, and 1:20. The maceration method with a 1:20 ratio indicated the optimum combination for producing butterfly pea petals extract (16.5982 g). Moreover, eyeshadow with the addition of butterfly pea petal extract showed no indication of allergic and irritating effects. Therefore, the maceration method with a 1:5 ratio could be further developed. Furthermore, this method was more stable in terms of odor and color, possessed a longer shelf-life of 15 days at low temperature (-5°C), and had a high hedonic value compared to other methods. Thus, the eyeshadow formulation with butterfly pea petal extract as its natural dyes was potential to be developed as cosmetics.</span></em>