Formulation and Evaluation of Natural Pigmented Lipstick from Roselle Flower and Secang Wood Extracts

Natural dyes are known for their use in colouring of food substrate, leather, wood as well as natural fibers like wool, silk, cotton and flax as major areas of application since ancient times. Natural dyes have a wide range of shades that can be obtained from various parts of plants, including roots, bark, leaves, flowers and fruits (Allen, 1971). Since the advent of widely available and cheaper synthetic dyes in 1856 having moderate to excellent colour fastness properties, the use of natural dyes having poor to moderate wash and light fastness has declined to a great extent. However, recently there has been revival of the growing interest on the application of natural dyes on natural fibers due to worldwide environmental consciousness (Samanta & Agarwal, 2009). Although this ancient art of dyeing with natural dyeing with natural dyes withstood the ravages of time, a rapid decline in natural dyeing continued due to the wide available of synthetic dyes at an economical price. However, even after a century, the use of natural dyes never erodes completely and they are still being used. Thus, natural dyeing of different textiles and leathers has been continued mainly in the decentralized sector for specialty products along with the use of synthetic dyes in the large scale sector for general textiles owing to the specific advantages and limitations of both natural dyes and synthetic dyes. The use of non-toxic and ecofriendly natural dyes on textiles has become a matter of significant importance because of the increased environmental awareness in order to avoid some hazardous synthetic dyes. However, worldwide the use of natural dyes for the colouration of textiles has mainly been confined to craftsman, small scale dyers and printers as well as small scale exporters and producers dealing with high valued ecofriendly textile production and sales (Samanta & Agarwal, 2009; Bechtold & Mussak, 2009; Vankar, 2007). Recently, a number of commercial dyers and small textile export houses have started looking at the possibilities of using natural dyes for regular basis dyeing and printing of textiles to overcome environmental pollution caused by

PurposeThis paper aims to select a type of mordant from aluminium salts, namely, aluminium sulphate, aluminium nitrate and polyaluminium chloride (PAC) with the lowest potential for contamination so that their use will minimise pollution from natural dye waste. It also aims to determine the pollution value of natural dye immersion waste from jackfruit wood extract, secang wood, mangsi fruit and several synthetic dyes, to identify potential environmental pollution.Design/methodology/approachDyeing with natural dyes was performed by exhaust at room temperature by the pre-mordant method, while with synthetic dyes it was performed by exhaust according to the dyeing procedure (reactive, vat and naphthol). The groundwater, mordant solutions, natural dye extract and the waste-water from the natural and synthetic dyes were then tested to determine their biological oxygen demand (BOD5), chemical oxygen demand (COD), total suspended solids (TSS), pH, Al and heavy metal contents such as chromium (Cr), copper (Cu), cadmium (Cd), nickel (Ni), cobalt (Co) and lead (Pb).FindingsAluminium sulphate had the lowest pollution load while PAC had the highest, as aluminium sulphate had a higher BOD5/COD ratio (0.62–0.67) than aluminium nitrate (0.56–0.64) or PAC (0.44–0.54). The dyeing waste from the three natural dyes contained an acidic pH of 3.5–4.2, Al of 75.280–621.34 mg/L, Cr of 0.154–0.215 mg/L and Cu of 0.035–0.072 mg/L. The values of TSS, COD and BOD5 are higher than the quality standards of the waste but are environmentally friendly because the ratio of the BOD5/COD values from the waste ranges from 0.44–0.67.Research limitations/implicationsThe findings indicate that as a mordant, aluminium sulphate results in lower pollution loads than aluminium nitrate and PAC. However, all three mordants contain Cr and Cu, albeit in negligible concentrations. Therefore, it is recommended that future studies strive to identify a mordant that has lower pollution loads and does not contain metals but can increase dyeing results to satisfy consumer requirements. It is the hope that, with the discovery of a new mordant, natural dyes will be the solution for the heavy metal pollution caused by synthetic dyes.Practical implicationsThe use of environmentally-friendly mordants and natural dyes in the Indonesian textile and batik industry will give rise to superior quality eco-textile and eco-batik products. Such environmentally-friendly and high-quality products will not only increase competition and consumer interest but increase product sales as well which will, in turn, increase incomes and the economy. Additionally, an increase in the use of natural dyes by the textile and batik industry will serve as additional income to the communities and farmers from which the raw materials for the natural dyes are sourced thereby creating jobs and increasing welfare.Social implicationsAs environmentally-friendly mordants and natural dyes replace the hazardous and toxic materials currently used in the textile and batik industry, it guarantees the health and safety of its consumers and workers. Furthermore, as the waste-water produced is biodegradable, it reduces river and groundwater pollution. It is, therefore, expected that this information will not only lead to a shift in attitude within the textile and batik industries but the adoption of environmentally-friendly materials, for the sake of the environment, as well as the development of eco-textile and eco-batik products.Originality/valueAluminium sulphate is a mordant type of aluminium salt with a lower potential for contamination than aluminium nitrate and PAC. However, PAC has been discovered to be a mordant for natural dyes, as has the fruit of the mangsi shrub, which has recently been discovered as a naturally occurring blue dye.

Roselle flower contains various active compounds including organic acid, hydroxycitric acid, hibiscus acid, anthocyanin, flavonoids and polysaccharides The anthocyanin compounds in rosella flowers are the most important pigment of vascular plants, harmless and that make it interesting is a soluble pigment in water media Anthocyanin extract is one of the most successful natural sensitizers for solar cells, because this organic dye produces a high yield of photons to current conversion and is easy to obtain and cheap. Anthocyanins can be potential as sensitizers, because they range in the light spectrum from red to blue. The purpose of this study was to obtain anthocyanin pigments at the optimum extraction conditions from roselle flowers. The optimization of the method was carried out by analyzing the effect of ultrasonic wave frequency, process temperature, extraction time, and mass ratio of roselle flowers to the volume of distilled water on the anthocyanin concentration. The qualitative and quantitative compositions of the anthocyanin extract of rosella flowers were analyzed by UV-Vis spectrophotometer. The results showed that the optimal operating conditions for the extraction process were known at a temperature of 40 °C, a frequency of 24 kHz, a time of 5 minutes, and a ratio of 1: 25.

Secang wood (Caesalpinia sappan L.) is one of the local resources that contain natural pigments, namely brazilin. Brazilin is a pigment derived from Secang wood (Caesalpinia sappan L.) that is potentially used as a natural dye. This study aims to prove that Secang Wood (Caesalpinia sappan L.) can be applied as a dye in Compact Powder Blush On.The method for obtaining Secang wood (Caesalpinia sappan L.) extract uses the maceration extraction method with a sample of Secang wood (Caesalpinia sappan L.) of 250 gram and ethanol 96% then evaporated in a water bath with a temperature below 80 0C resulting in a yield of Secang wood (Caesalpinia sappan L.) extract of 27.87%. pH during the maceration process must be kept neutral, if it is not stable then it is added citric acid or sodium bicarbonate. The components of the Compact Powder Blush On are Talcum, Kaolin, Parrafin Liquid, Okside Zinc, Isopropyl myristate, and the addition of Secang wood extract (Caesalpinia sappan L.) with a concentration of 5%, 10%, 20%. Tests on preparations made include pH test, sticky power test, topical test, and stability test.The observations show that the Compact Powder Blush On preparation at a concentration of 5%, 10%, and 20% Secang wood extract (Caesalpinia sappan L.) is pink, easily applied, has an average adhesion of 13.83%, produces a pink color when applying, and has a pH of 7. However, using Secang wood (Caesalpinia sappan L.) as a Blush On dye does not have color stability. Based on the results of the study it can be concluded that Secang Wood (Caesalpinia sappan L.) can be used as a natural dye Compact Powder Blush On, but additional ingredients are needed so that the color remains stable during storage at room temperature.

Objective: The objective of this research was to formulate Orally Disintegrating Tablets (ODT) preparations for secang (Caesalpinia sappan L.) wood extract as antioxidants that met the requirements as a pharmaceutical preparation.
 Methods: Three ODT formulas were made using the composition of the extract of secang wood, HPC-H, kollidon® CL, Avicel® PH 101, mannitol, acesulfame, magnesium stearate, citric acid, and menthol. The bitter taste of the extract of wood secang was covered with the Hydroxy Propyl Cellulose High Substitution (HPC-H) masking agent. Variations in HPC-H concentration were 4%, 4.5%, and 5%. The evaluation of tablet print mass tested included water content, flow velocity, and resting angle, real density, incompressible density, and compressibility. Evaluation of tablets tested included weight uniformity, uniformity of size, hardness, friability, and disintegration time. The tablet antioxidant activity testing was carried out by the Diphenylpicylhydrazyl (DPPH) method.
 Results: The results showed that all ODT formulas of secang wood extract were fulfilling the requirements as a tablet preparation according to Indonesian Pharmacopoeia IV. IC50 values ​​obtained from antioxidant testing on the three ODT formulas for a secang wood extract for formula I was 3.614 ppm, formula II was 3.464 ppm, formula III was 3.173 ppm, and the wood extract was 3.757 ppm.
 Conclusion: The results obtained in this research work clearly indicated ODT formulas of secang wood extract fulfilled Indonesian Pharmacopea IV requirement and belong to the category of very strong antioxidants because they have an IC50 value of less than 50 ppm.

The most widely used soap is soap from sodium salt, but potassium soap is a softer and more soluble soap in water, so potassium soap is made for special functions, such as liquid soap. Brazilin in secang wood extract (Caesalpinia sappan L.) has potential as an antioxidant and antibacterial agent. Secang wood dry powder was extracted with 96% ethanol, thickened and then extracts tested. Fourteen liquid soap formulas using 10% secang wood extract with variations of KOH base, stearic acid, and citric acid were tested for physical properties including viscosity, pH, and free alkali. The optimum formula liquid bath soap can inhibit S. aureus ATCC 25923 as large as 32.6 ± 0.75 mm. The optimum formula is obtained by the Simplex Lattice Design method, the results are analyzed by expert design software. The optimum formula was tested for physical properties then analyzed using one-sample t-test and irritation test. The optimum form of liquid bath extract of sabaun secang wood extract contains KOH 0.6121%, stearic acid 0.613% and citric acid 0.085% with physical properties of viscosity of 9.69, pH of 9.95 free alkali of 0.08. T test results showed no significant difference between the response of the physical properties of the experimental results and software predictions. The optimum formula for shower bath liquid wood extract does not irritate the skin.

PurposeThis paper aims to examine the recipe for and standard methods of dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes from jackfruit wood extract. The dyeing of the fabric was performed by immersion it without heating for a short time to obtain the best results.Design/methodology/approachThe dyeing experiment using cotton fabric with jackfruit wood extract was conducted by immersion at room temperature. The independent variables studied were the mordant method, type of mordant, mordant concentration, salt concentration and dyeing pH. The dependent variables were colour strength and colour fastness to washing and rubbing. The orthogonal array L16 (45) was used in the study to obtain the optimal values for each parameter of the response variables. The multi-response signal-to-noise (MRSN) method was used to optimise the five response variables with different quality characteristics so that the best parameters could be obtained based on the highest MRSN ratio value.FindingsThe best parameters were obtained at an MRSN value of 4.5254 under A3B3C1D2E4 conditions, namely, the dyeing process with post mordant, aluminium nitrate type mordant, mordant concentration of 10 g/L, salt concentration of 15 g/L and dyeing a pH: of 10. Under these conditions, the value of K/S was obtained at 1.893, colour fastness to washing (GS: 4) and (SS: 4–5), dry rubbing (SS: 5) and wet rubbing (SS: 4–5).Research limitations/implicationsObtaining a standard recipe and method for dyeing cotton cloth with jackfruit wood extract by immersion without heating is expected to lead to the development of natural dyes, and especially their application on an industrial scale. This standard and method can be used as technical guidelines by industry. The use of aluminum nitrate as a mordant will help achieve optimal dyeing results. The use of polyaluminium chloride (PAC) mordant, which has the potential to produce high colour strength, and papaya fruit sap, which has the capacity to increase colour fastness, still need to be developed to improve the results of natural dyes.Practical implicationsThe standard recipe and dyeing method will be able to improve the results of the dyeing of cotton fabrics with natural dyes. Short immersion dyeing without heating and the optimal results obtained are the main attractions for their use by the textile/batik industry, as the process is easier and a lower cost. The results of dyeing with dark colours and good colour fastness mean the textile products are of the higher quality demanded by consumers, thereby increasing sales. This will encourage the use of and increase the need for natural dyes by industry, consequently reducing the use of synthetic dyes.Social implicationsThe use of natural dyes, chemical mordant from aluminum salts, and natural mordant from papaya fruit sap in the dyeing process in the textile/batik industry in Indonesia will produce eco-textile and eco-batik products that are environmentally friendly and of high quality. This in turn will increase consumer interest and sales, meaning that the income and economy of workers in the textile industry/crafts sector will also increase. In addition, the use of natural dyes with the selection of a safe mordant (not containing heavy metals) will reduce the use of synthetic dyes, which pollute and damage the aquatic environment.Originality/valueThis study found a standard recipe and method of dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes from jackfruit wood extracted by immersion without heating for a short time to obtain the best results. In addition, the discovery was of PAC, a new mordant which is effective in the use of natural dyes can give high colour strength to cotton fabric. In addition to the discovery of a new mordant, PAC, which has the potential to produce high colour strength, papaya fruit sap also has the capacity to increase colour fastness with the use of natural dyes from the flavonoid group.

Kombucha, a traditional fermented beverage made from tea, sugar, and a kombucha culture, is known for its unique flavor, aroma, and health benefits. The fermentation process, typically lasting between 8 and 12 days, influences the beverage's physical and chemical properties. While traditionally brewed from tea, alternative substrates like rosella flowers (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.) are also used. Rosella flowers, rich in vitamins and bioactive compounds, have demonstrated potential in combating obesity and exhibiting antioxidant properties. This study aimed to evaluate the chemical and biological characteristics of rosella flower kombucha, particularly its antioxidant and lipase inhibitor activities. The fermentation process led to significant biochemical changes, including a decrease in pH and reducing sugar content, an increase in microbial biomass, and a reduction in ascorbic acid content. The results revealed that rosella flower kombucha had a higher total phenol content and better DPPH radical scavenging activity compared to rosella flower infusion, indicating enhanced antioxidant potential. Additionally, rosella kombucha demonstrated more effective lipase inhibition, suggesting its potential benefits for weight management and metabolic health. These findings emphasize rosella kombucha's potential as a healthful functional beverage, recommending further research in these areas.

Brazilin is a flavonoid found in secang (sappan) wood extract (Caesalpinia sappan L) currently undergoing clinical trials in phase 2 for the treatment of thalassemia patients. It is recognized for its antioxidant effects and its efficacy as a strong iron chelator, facilitating the binding and excretion of excess iron in the bloodstream of patients with thalassemia. This flavonoid compound may serve as a Janus kinase 2 (JAK2) inhibitor through the EPO/EPOR/JAK2/STAT5 pathway, which is responsible for splenomegaly (enlarged spleen). This study aims to investigate the mechanism by which sappan wood metabolite chemicals (brazilin) inhibit JAK2 in silico. This inhibition is expected to reduce splenomegaly in thalassemia patients and serve as an alternative to ruxolitinib (conventional medications). The pharmacokinetic profile of the ligand is predicted according to Lipinski's rule, while the binding energy (ΔG), initiation constant, and chemical bonds are examined using molecular docking with AutoDock v.4.25. This study successfully determined that brazilin, with a binding energy of -8.37 kcal/mol, is comparable to ruxolitinib, which has a binding energy of -8.71 kcal/mol. This finding shows that brazilin derived from sappan wood contains bioactive chemicals with potential JAK2 inhibitory activities. This finding establishes a foundation for further research aimed at developing new therapeutic agents for the treatment of splenomegaly in β-thalassemia and associated disorders.

Since the invention of synthetic dyes, the use of natural dyes became decreased. The synthetic dyes was cheaper and more profitable than natural dyes. However, the use of synthetic dyes for foods and beverages has the negative impact. Therefore the use of natural food dyes is recommended because it is harmless. Carrots are one kind of foods that produced natural dyes. The aims of this research were to determine the influence of temperature and time extraction for the optimum yield. This research used the batch extraction method, using a three-neck flask and stirrer at 400 rpm. The extraction was set at (30, 60, 80, 100) ˚C and time (20, 40, 60, 80) minutes, with a weight ratio of material to solvent volume is 1 g : 10 ml. In this research, the optimum extraction conditions was at 80 ˚C.

Rosella flower (Hibiscuss sabdariffa L.) in traditional medicine can provide protection against various diseases, such as coronary heart disease, cancer, lowering cholesterol, and liver disorders. This study aims to obtain the optimum formula of tablet of rosella flower extract with a mixture of Avicel PH 101 and lactose as a filler using wet granulation method. Rosella flower extract was obtained by maceration of rosella flower powder using 70% ethanol. The optimization formula for tablets using the Simplex Lattice Design method with Design Expert software version 10. The parameters used in the optimization are weight variation, hardness, friability and disintegration time. Verification of the optimal formula using the SPSS 18 program with the One Sample T-test method with a confidence level of 95%. The results showed that the optimal formula of tablet of rosella flower extract was the Avicel PH 101 97.82%: 2.17% lactose. The optimal formula has weight variation 1.53% ± 0.0073; hardness 5.087 kg ± 0.5135; the friability is 0.3% ± 0.041. The resulting disintegration was 22.99 minutes ± 2.218. The results of the verification of the optimal formula show that there is no significant difference between the predictions of the Simplex Lattice Design method and the results of the tests performed so that it can be said that the method is valid.

Highly starch content in sorghum seed has a high potential raw material for the sorghum fluor to be a raw material of liquid sugar known as glucose syrup. The syrup is usually produced through enzymatically or chemically hydrolysis using a strong acid. In this study, sorghum starch is hydrolyzed chemically using a catalyst of organic acids extracted from roselle flower (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.). The goal of the study is to produce glucose syrup free from chemical agents so as generally recognized as safe (GRAS). Rosella flowers are known to contain high amounts of organic acids such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, and hibiscus acid. Apart from having natural acid content, rosella flowers also contain vitamins (ascorbic acid) and are rich in natural red pigment dyes from the anthocyanins that can be an added value for the glucose syrup products. Organic acid extraction of dried rosella flowers was carried out at a temperature of 100°C for 30 minutes in a water bath and filtered. The resulting acid extract then determined the value of the total titrated acid (TTA) by the acid-base titration method. Sorghum starch is prepared by mixing sorghum flour with distilled water and then cooled at 4°C for 12 hours. Starch is obtained from the dried filtrate to obtain a water content of <14%. The starch hydrolysis process with rosella flower extract was carried out in several variations, namely the hydrolysis time of 1 - 4 hours, the TTA concentration of rosella 4 - 16%. Meanwhile, the temperature and stirring speed were fixed at 96°C and 200 rpm. The resulting glucose levels were analyzed by the spectrophotometric method. From this research, the result shows that the best sorghum starch hydrolysis condition was obtained at the addition of 16% acid extract for 180 minutes which gave 13.83% of glucose yield

Secang wood is one of the plants that contains many antioxidants, secondary metabolites and antibacterial compounds. This study aims to determine characterization of simplicia and chemical substances of Secang wood extract. Secang wood which was already in the form of simplicia was extracted by maceration using 96% ethanol solvent and the extract was concentrated with a rotary evaporator at a temperature of 40°C, then screening and characterization tests were carried out. The results of this study showed that phytochemical screening of the ethanol extract of sappan wood (Caesaloinia sappan L) showed the presence of flavonoid, tannin, saponin, alkaloid, steroid, and phenolic compounds. Characterization of simplicia obtained results at water content (3.95%) water soluble extract (11.01%), ethanol soluble extract (17.22%), total ash content (1.81%) and non-soluble ash content. acid soluble (0.28%).

Disclosing solution is a material that is often used to see the presence of plaque, made of erythrosine base material. Erythrosine is one of the food coloring ingredients and can also be used for bacterial staining, can cause allergic reactions and this dye also has the potential as a carcinogen. The purpose of the study is to figure 1). qualitative of the secondary metabolites of brazilin compounds in secang wood extract, 2). quantitative of the secondary metabolites of brazilin compounds in secang wood extracts and 3). toxicity in secang wood extract using the BSLT shrimp larva toxicity test (Brine Shrimp Lethality Test). The study design is a non-experimental one that will examine quantitatively on secondary metabolites of secang wood extract and toxicity tests. The research tools used are ovens, grinders, mechanical sieves, maceration vessels, hydraulic presses, rotary evaporators, water baths, Uv-Vis spectrophotometers, glass tools and materials used are secang wood and other materials used namely ethanol pro analysis, methanol pro analysis, hexane pro analysis, ethyl acetate pro analysis, aqua sterile, what man paper, FeCl3, HCl, shrimp larvae, and larval growing media. Quantitative analysis test obtained the level of secang wood brazilin which is 8.54% b / b. In toxicity tests using Uv-Vis spectrophotometers, the results of wood extracts are not toxic to living things based on toxicity tests with shrimp larva test models. Conclusion, secang wood contains brazilin which plays a role in giving red color and is not toxic to living creatures so that it is safe to use in humans.

Textile materials (natural and synthetic) used to be coloured for value addition, look and desire of the customers. Anciently, this purpose of colouring textile was initiated using colours of natural source, untill synthetic colours/dyes were invented and commercialized. For ready availability of pure synthetic dyes of different types/classes and its cost advantages, most of textile dyers/ manufacturers shifted towards use of synthetic colourant. Almost all the synthetic colourants being synthesized from petrochemical sources through hazardous chemical processes poses threat towards its eco-friendliness. Hence, worldwide, growing consciousness about organic value of eco-friendly products has generated renewed interest of consumers towards use of textiles (preferably natural fibre product) dyed with eco-friendly natural dyes. Natural dyes are known for their use in colouring of food substrate, leather as well as natural fibres like wool, silk and cotton as major areas of application since pre-historic times. Although this ancient art of dyeing textiles with natural dyes withstood the ravages of time, but due to the wide availability of synthetic dyes at an economical price, a rapid decline in natural dyeing continued. However, even after a century, the uses of natural dyes never erode completely and they are being still used in different places of the world. Thus, natural dyeing of different textiles and leathers has been continued mainly in the decentralized sector for specialty products besides the use of synthetic dyes in the large scale sector for general textiles/apparels. Recently, most of the commercial dyers and textile export houses have started re-looking to the maximum possibilities of using natural dyes for dyeing and printing of different textiles for targeting niche market. Natural dyes produce very uncommon, soothing and soft shades as compared to synthetic dyes. On the other hand, synthetic dyes, which are widely available at an economical price and produce a wide variety of colours, sometimes causes skin allergy and other harmfulness to human body, produces toxicity/chemical hazards during its synthesis, releases undesirable/hazardous/toxic chemicals etc. For successful commercial use of natural dyes for any particular fibres, the appropriate and standardized techniques for dyeing for that particular fibre-natural dye system need to be adopted. Therefore to obtain newer shade with acceptable colour fastness behaviour and reproducible colour yield, appropriate scientific dyeing techniques/procedures are to be derived. Thus, relevant scientific studies and its output on standardization of dyeing