Abstract

The unsaturated nature of wave heights near the shoreline is examined using a wave transformation model that assumes wave height saturation in the inner surf zone. The model abandons the depth limitations on surf zone wave heights and determining wave height solely from energy dissipation rates, which also results in an unsaturated surf zone on steep beach slopes. The wave setup and surf beat were not considered as the main factors for making wave heights unsaturated. An unsaturated wave height is considered as a wave greater in height than the mean depth, not just the still water depth. A more rigorous definition for an unsaturated surf zone would be that an increase in offshore wave height leads to an increase in wave height at the shoreline.

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