Chapter seven - Sustainable restaurants in Barcelona (Spain): identity and sustainability in local cuisine

Abstract

This chapter reviews the findings from socio-anthropological research on sustainable restaurants in the city of Barcelona. Sustainable food and its potential access are current and broadly discussed issues within the social sciences. This chapter proposes an interdisciplinary approach that combines sociological theories on a transition to food sustainability based on the theory of the social actor and anthropological theories that address food identity in multicultural contexts. In this regard, food sustainability is approached from a cultural perspective to analyze how local communities put it into practice. This chapter analyzes the sustainable menu served in restaurants based on their chef’s experience, the perception of sustainability, and the relationship with suppliers. Identity is presented as an essential aspect in this scenario, encouraging social actors to seek paths towards sustainability as a way to conserve the environment and the local food culture. The research was carried out in four slow food restaurants in Barcelona, and the data were collected through open interviews, from websites, and during on-site visits. The research showed that, in Barcelona, a perception of sustainability is characterized by the existence of multicultural spaces; In addition, chefs connect with the menus they create while feeling free to exploit a wide range of cultural references and to give a new meaning to their dishes. The study also showed that this notion of sustainability favors sustainable entrepreneurship, respect, and a positive appreciation of suppliers and their products.