Abstract
Publisher Summary This chapter presents an integrated modeling system to demonstrate the way in which random deepwater waves are simulated on a digital computer. These waves are propagated shoreward to yield information on changes in wave height, length, celerity, breaking characteristics, steepness, drift and orbital velocities, and horizontal and vertical particle velocities. The chapter reviews the limitations of wave-simulation studies. It develops a relatively simple, credible model to generate deepwater waves. It also describes the way in which these types of models that are designed to understand the changes occurring in the characteristics of shoreward propagating deepwater waves could be improved. A model of deepwater wave propagation and transformation can take the form of a computer program that embodies logical rules, mathematical equations, and their solutions. The chapter illustrates the simulation of the wave-induced sediment movement.
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