Abstract
Abstract : Experimental data were obtained for the wave-surface time history, the horizontal and vertical particle velocities, and the particle orbits of deep and shallow water and breaking waves. Comparisons with the Stokes and other wave theories showed good agreement for deep water conditions. The theories were not applicable to shallow water conditions. The theories were not applicable to shallow water conditions in which wave water depth/wave length values are appreciably less than 0.2 and the waves have an appreciable steepness.
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