Abstract
Publisher Summary This chapter discusses a phase-resolving nonlinear wave module combined with two sediment transport modules to study the process of sediment transport and morphological evolution in the near shore area, both inside and outside the surf zone. Application of the model to cross-shore and long shore transport, and the influence of swash infiltration- exfiltration on beach face sediment transport are also described. A nonlinear breaking wave model based on the higher-order Boussinesq-type equations can be combined with a sediment transport and morphology model. The wave model provides the sediment transport module with the required hydrodynamic information such as the bottom velocity, undertow, and wave energy dissipation due to breaking. The Dibajnia and Watanabe transport rate formula involving unsteady aspects of the sand transport phenomenon can be adopted for estimating the sheet flow sediment transport rates as well as the bed load and suspended load over ripples. For the calculation of the suspended load induced by wave breaking, a time-averaged approach is adopted. The process-based approach is more sensitive to variations in the wave height and the grain size.
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