Abstract

Non-linear wave transformation in the surf and swash zone is computed by a nonlinear breaking wave model based on the numerical solution of the time-dependent wave-energy equation, which is incorporated into a Boussinesq model. The Dibajnia and Watanabe transport rate formula involving unsteady aspects of the sand transport phenomenon is adopted for estimating the sheet flow sediment transport rates as well as the bed load and suspended load over ripples. For calculation of the suspended load induced by wave breaking, the Bailard formula is used. Since the only dissipation mechanism is the wave breaking. The model is able to reproduce accretion and erosion without the use of a criterion to distinguish accretionary and erosional waves. The methodology is applied to simulate sediment transport and beach evolution in soft shore protection methods (beach nourishment, floating and submerged breakwaters).

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