Analysis of Calculated Ease Values in Semi-Fitted Bodice Blocks Considering Quasi-Static Poses

Abstract

This paper addresses clothing misfit issues primarily caused by incorrect applications of ease values. In pattern drafting, ease values are added to body measurements by distributing them at relevant construction levels. However, these ease values have been explained differently in books published by subject experts. Most published pattern drafting methods instruct taking body measurements and constructing blocks with considering only the relaxed state of the human figure. However, no studies have yet considered the calculation of ease values in relation to different body poses. Moreover, while the calculated ease values are accurate for the relaxed state, they do not correctly account for different body poses. Therefore, this study presents effective ease values for semi-fitted bodice blocks considering the quasi-static body poses of the wearer. Five reliable pattern drafting methods relevant to semi-fitted women’s wear were evaluated. Accordingly, 2D CAD patterns were drafted according to UK size 12 standard form measurements and fit was assessed both physically and digitally to examine the adequacy of ease values in relation to clothing fit. Inconsistencies of ease values were found across all the selected pattern drafting methods resulting in various fit issues and discomfort in functionality. The proposed ease values will serve as a practical guide to producing clothing that maximises efficiency and productivity.