9 - Evaluation of pattern block for fit testing

Abstract

This chapter is devoted to the very important topic of pattern blocks, the making of which includes the final control to predict the possible problems of fit and the special methods of pattern block correction before cutting, to obtain good-fitting and balanced garments. Fit and balance of ready-to-wear garments are the key factors that reflect the quality of the initial databases; the tailoring process of pattern block making and its shaping in accordance with the outline shape of the garment; the criteria of style and silhouette; textile material properties; and the morphology of the human body. Definitions of fit, misfit, and balance have been considered from different points of view of ready-to-wear clothes and pattern blocks. To control pattern blocks, the process of fit checking should be based on a combination of body measurements on the one side, and special rules of their application in pattern blocks on the other side. An anthropometrical database includes traditional body measurements and new ones generated by 3D bodyscanners to present the morphological features of the human body more exactly: first, how to draw the pattern blocks; second, how to control them; third, how to correct them. Special attention has been given to relationships between body measurements and parameters of pattern blocks. Because ease allowances are used in the professional realm to connect body measurements and parameters of pattern blocks, a special scheme of ease evaluation is considered. Practical application of all databases, schemes, and schedule of indexes is shown in terms of indicators of balance applied to fit prediction.