Від національного до інтернаціонального: українські акценти в повоєнній моді Львова 40–50-х рр. ХХ ст.

Abstract

The author analyzes the use of Ukrainian themes by the Soviet fashion industry in the first postwar decade on the basis of archival materials, periodicals, specialized literature, and historiography. The article reads that a number of Russian fashion designers actively used Ukrainian ethnic elements in their work – cut, embroidery, drapery, etc. At the same time, most of the borrowings were presented as “Russian ornament”, “Russian silhouette” or as the best – “embroidery of the peoples of the USSR”. At the same time, the post-war demand for “Ukrainian culture” led to the popularization of Ukrainian embroidery, a folk style that went far beyond its traditional use. One of the key places where Ukrainian national clothes served as a tribute to fashion and reflected much deeper meanings – was the city of Lviv. An artistic embroidery enterprise known for its products in Europe has been operating here since pre-war times. With the arrival of the Soviets a group of artistic embroidery named after Lesya Ukrainka was organized on the base of this enterprise. It quickly made high profits earning millions. In its work, the group used ancient Ukrainian techniques and styles of embroidery including “Kyiv”, “Podil”, “Poltava”, “Chernihiv”, “Snake” or “Horodok stitch”, “Horodok Crescent”, “Dragging”, and “Yavoriv Smooth”. The embroidered shirts offered by this firm also featured their particular styles called “Ukrainian”, “Chumachka” and “Hutsulka”. The enterprise’s embroidered products including shirts, dresses, scarves, towels, vests, and folk clothing quickly gained popularity both in the USSR and abroad.