МАЛЕНЬКОЕ ЧЕРНОЕ ПЛАТЬЕ: СЕМИОТИКА И ИСТОРИЯ

Abstract

The article explores historical and semiotic aspects of the little black dress. The little black dress (LBD) is interpreted in the frame of Bohemian artistic style and further developments in 20th century fashion. The analysis starts with the little black dress designed by Gabriel Chanel in 1926, but the point of origin for historical reference is the European tradition of mourning dress of the 19th century, that determined the cultural symbolism of the colour black. The semiotics of the little black dress is newly defined through the culture of minimalism of 1920s. The article traces the connection between the design of the little black dress and the sartorial tradition of the Great Male Renunciation: sacrificing the decorative for the functional; emphasizing comfort, freedom of movement, and the individuality of the wearer. The minimalism of the little black dress is balanced by the use of accessories. In conclusion we discuss the contemporary role of the little black dress as women’s uniform. Throughout, the article aims to demonstrate the variability of cultural functions of the little black dress, depending on the historical context.