Wool Industry Research Articles

Conjugation of chitosan oligosaccharide to papain for controllable anti-felting finishing of wool textiles

The application of protease as a biocatalyst for the anti-felting finishing of wool has been widely explored. However, commercial proteases tend to hydrolyze the non-keratinized proteins in the cell membrane complex (CMC) layer while removing wool scales, resulting in excessive hydrolysis and unacceptable fiber damage. Herein, chitosan oligosaccharide (COS) was covalently grafted to papain using carbodiimide/N-hydroxysuccinimide (EDC/NHS) to prepare a less-destructive modified protease of Pap-COS. Subsequently, one-bath anti-felting finishing of wool was carried out using reducing agent and Pap-COS, aiming at achieving low shrinkage and reduced strength loss. The results reveal that Pap-COS achieved a larger particle size than native papain, accompanied by a prolongation of its half-life and a decrease in the thermal inactivation rate, demonstrating improved stability. Under the same incubation conditions, the felting shrinkage of wool fabrics treated with papain and Pap-COS was similar (approximately 5 %). In contrast, native papain caused a 20.82 % decrease in fabric strength, while Pap-COS resulted in a substantially lower decrease (8.10 %), meeting the requirements of commercial woolen products. Furthermore, the dyeing performance and wearability of the Pap-COS-treated wool fabrics were also dramatically improved. The present work provides an alternative for eco-friendly shrink-resistant finishing of woolen textiles in wool industry.

The use of cell and larval assays to identify target genes for RNA interference-meditated control of the Australian sheep blowfly (Lucilia cuprina).

Flystrike, primarily caused by Lucilia cuprina, is a major health and welfare issue for sheep wool industries. Current chemical-based controls can have limited effectiveness due to the emergence of resistance in the parasite. RNA interference (RNAi), which uses double-stranded RNA (dsRNA) as a trigger molecule, has been successfully investigated for the development of innovative pest control strategies. Although RNAi offers great potential, the efficient identification, selection of target genes and delivery of dsRNA represent challenges to be overcome for the successful application of RNAi for control of L. cuprina. A primary L. cuprina (blowfly) embryo cell line (BFEC) was established and confirmed as being derived from L. cuprina eggs by PCR and amplicon sequencing. The BFECs were successfully transfected with plasmids and messenger RNA (mRNA) expressing fluorescent reporter proteins and dsRNA using lipid-based transfection reagents. The transfection of dsRNA into BEFC in this study suggested decreased mRNA levels of target gene expression, which suggested RNAi-mediated knockdown. Three of the dsRNAs identified in this study resulted in reductions of in target gene mRNA levels in BFEC and loss of biological fitness by L. cuprina larvae in a feeding bioassay. This study confirms that the novel BFEC cell line can be used to improve the efficacy of dsRNA-mediated screening to accelerate the identification of potential target genes in the development of RNAi mediated control approaches for L. cuprina. The research models established in this study are encouraging with respect to the use of RNAi as a blowfly control method, however further improvement and validation are required for field applicationsnot prefect, and could be ongoing developing. © 2024 The Author(s). Pest Management Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Chemical Industry.

An Analysis of the Wool Characteristics That Determine the Wool Price for White Wool in South Africa

This study evaluates the effects of white wool's characteristics (fibre diameter/fineness, staple strength, vegetable matter, and staple length) that contribute to determining the wool price in South Africa. The analysis was based on wool price data for the 2009 to 2019 production seasons. A multiple regression analysis of the price (R/kg) of White wool was applied to four independent variables: fibre diameter/fineness, staple strength, vegetable matter and staple length. Fibre diameter, staple length and clean yield, except vegetable matter, made a significant contribution (p < 0.05) to the determination of wool price after all other independent variables were controlled. A one-unit increase in staple length was associated with a 0.018-unit increase in wool price (R/kg). One unit (micron) increase in fibre diameter/fineness resulted in a 0.331 unit decrease in wool price (R/kg). One unit (percentage) increase in clean yield resulted in a 0.115 unit increase in wool price (R/kg). The analysis found that a 1% increase in clean yield, a measure of the amount of clean, usable wool produced by a sheep, was associated with an average increase of 0.115 R/kg in the price of wool. This means that as clean yield increases, wool price tends to increase. Clean yield varies within sheep flocks due to varying amounts of wax and contaminants such as vegetable matter dirt, breed of sheep, and the environmental conditions during wool growth. There was no statistically significant association between vegetable matter and wool price. Wool farmers need to produce wool with low fibre diameter, good length of wool and high clean yield percentage for White wool. Additionally, farmers should focus on improving their production and marketing practices, and policymakers should consider implementing policies that support the wool industry and increase its competitiveness.

Intelligent Identification of Chinese and Australian Merino Wool Fibers Based on Image Recognition

In order to promote the sustainable growth of the wool industry and protect consumers' legitimate rights, rapid identification of the country of origin for wool of the same type is deemed crucial. This research presents a computer graphic recognition training model that utilizes median and Wiener filtering techniques to effectively reduce noise in the raw wool fiber images. Employing a support vector machine as the classifier and integrating a polynomial kernel function, this model achieves swift and accurate identification of Chinese and Australian Merino wool fibers. Experimental results underscore that following image recognition training, the model attains an impressive 92.5% comprehensive and precise identification rate for Chinese and Australian Merino wool fibers, effectively distinguishing the origin of wool from the same category. This approach not only provides a valuable reference for identifying the origin of similar wool types but also holds the potential to standardizing the wool fibre material market and assuring the consumer’s confidence on wool products.

US wool industry perceptions of digital record keeping and wool supply-chain traceability

US wool industry perceptions of digital record keeping and wool supply-chain traceability

Assessing the potential of a niche market for wool products in South Africa

<abstract> <p>Ethical consumerism has been on the rise since the early 1900s; thus, increasing discerning consumers. Consumers place greater importance on intangible attributes such as the origin and societal and environmental impacts of the products. Studies focus on agricultural niche marketing in the South African and sub-Saharan context, but none focus on niche markets within the South African sheep wool industry. In this study, we investigated the niche market for local, handmade and socially responsible wool products in South Africa. Our methodology included interviews, a choice-based conjoint analysis and a multinomial logit model. The results revealed that South African high-income consumers preferred locally produced wool products over imported wool products. This was followed by consumers' preferring handmade over machine-made products as well as socially responsible wool products over those that provided no information on social responsibility. The existence of a niche market in South Africa was demonstrated when consumers preferred ethical wool products. We defined consumers' demographic and psychographic factors for a niche market. The findings can assist the South African wool industry and small-scale woolgrowers to identify niche markets for wool products by considering intangible attributes.</p> </abstract>

Carbon Footprint of Wool at Cradle to Farm-Gate Stage in Victoria, Australia

The raw material acquisition stage of wool involves raising sheep and a large amount of input and output, resulting in substantial greenhouse gas emissions. To date, the research literature on wool carbon footprint is limited, and there is a lack of research on Victoria. These studies did not consider the influence of changes in weight and productive lifespan. This study aims to address this knowledge gap by calculating the wool carbon footprint in Victoria and improving the calculation method. In this article, 20,000 sheep in Victoria were investigated. The average weights of the sheep were obtained by curve fitting and calculating. Two scenarios with 5-year and 6-year productive lifespans were used to calculate the carbon footprint of merino wool by the mass allocation method, economic allocation method, and protein mass allocation method. Results revealed that the carbon footprint of wool for the 5-year and 6-year productive lifespans were 14.158–49.040 kg carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2-e)/kg wool and 16.743–52.882 kg CO2-e/kg wool. Rumination and excretion accounted for the largest proportion, followed by phosphate fertilizer, electricity, and potash fertilizer. The longer the productive lifespan and the heavier the sheep, the greater the greenhouse gas emissions from rumination and excretion, leading to a larger carbon footprint for wool. For the same productive lifespan, the economic allocation method produced the highest carbon footprint for wool compared to the mass allocation method, which produced the lowest carbon footprint. This study provides a reference for the subsequent carbon footprint accounting of wool from cradle to farm-gate and helps the wool industry save energy and reduce emissions.

Application and Future Perspectives of Keratin Protein Extracted from Waste Chicken Feather: A Review

In the present review, we have focused on the utilization of keratin from poultry bio-mass. Keratin is a tough, fibrous protein that is mostly found. There are millions of tonnes of keratin-containing biomass produced by the food sector, particularly the meat market, slaughterhouses and wool industry. These proteins which make up the byproduct of keratin contain between 15-18% of Nitrogen, 2-5% of sulphur, 1.20% of Fat and 90% of Protein. It is an eco-friendly and economical method for the production of uniaxially and randomly oriented polymeric products. The chemical and mechanical techniques can be utilized right away to make a wide range of cosmetics, lotions, shampoos, hair conditioners and biomedical items. The natural protein is better suited for usage on or application to human hair and skin. In the present study, various sources of keratin, purification and separation of keratin from organic waste have industrial application and their future perspectives have all been discussed.

An analysis of the wool characteristics that determine wool price in South Africa

Purpose South Africa’s wool industry plays an important role in the agricultural sector. The wool industry provides a valuable source of income for farmers who practice sustainable farming practices. However, wool farmers face numerous challenges, such as wool contamination, dirty wool and producing good-quality wool. Good-quality wool is determined by fibre diameter, clean yield, vegetable matter and staple length. This study aims to address these challenges. Design/methodology/approach A multiple regression analysis of price (R/kg) of White wool and Merino wool was applied to four variables fibre diameter: vegetable matter, clean yield and staple length. The analysis was based on the data for the 2009–2019 data from Cape Wools auctions. Findings Fibre diameter, clean yield and staple length, with exception of vegetable matter, made a statistically significant contribution to the determination of wool price after all other independent variables were controlled for (p < 0.05). A one-unit (micron) increase in fibre diameter resulted in a 0.404-unit decrease in wool price (R/kg). A one-unit (mm) increase in staple length resulted in a 0.022-unit increase in wool price (R/kg). There was no statistically significant association between vegetable matter and wool price. A one-unit increase in clean yield was associated with a 0.111-unit increase in wool price (R/kg). Research limitations/implications Since wool fleeces consist of the largest portion of wool shorn from sheep, it is important for wool farmers to focus on wool with low fibre diameter, high clean yield percentage, low percentage of vegetable matter content and good length of the wool. Practical implications Since wool fleeces consist of the largest portion of wool shorn from sheep, it is important for wool farmers to focus on wool with low fibre diameter, high clean yield percentage, low percentage of vegetable matter content and good length of the wool. Social implications In a developing country such as South Africa, this study is important for the following reason. It is understanding the wool characteristics that have the most significance influence on the determination of wool price for Merino wool and White wool might effectively help the wool farmers to adapt their production systems to improve the wool characteristics that determine wool price. Originality/value This study identified a need for a study to be conducted on all wool classes.

An eco-friendly technique for shrink-resist finishing of dyed wool via combined use of hydrolase and cyclamate

Savinase 16L as a type of mature protease for shrink-resist finishing can effectively hydrolyze wool scales, but it is also easy to penetrate into the cell membrane complex (CMC) layer, even easily causing undesired fiber damages. In this study, Savinase 16L was combinedly used with a protective agent of cyclamate, achieving an increase in the size of enzyme protein molecules through the intermolecular forces. This combined operation was intended to make it difficult for protease to enter the CMC layer, conferring protease a more concentrated actions towards wool scales. Meanwhile, a commercial keratinase was applied for wool pretreatment to loosen the structural integrity by hydrolyzing the disulfide bonds in wool scales. The combination use of hydrolase (20 U/mL of keratinase, and 6.5 U/mL protease) and 10 g/L cyclamate endowed the dyed wool fabric with encouraging shrink-resist property, achieving a felting shrinkage of 5.4% ± 0.55% with an acceptable strength loss of 12.3% ± 1.2%. More importantly, color hue of the wool fabric almost did not change compared with to that with chlorination method. As an eco-friendly and energy-saving strategy, it provides an efficient alternative for shrink-resist finishing of white and dyed wool fabrics, and expands the application of biotechnology in wool industry.

“Well-Dressed” in Suits of Australian Wool: The Global Fiber Wars and Masculine Material Literacy, 1950–1965

The global explosion of synthetic fibers in the mid-twentieth century challenged Australia’s wool industry, demanding new ways of marketing the natural fiber to compete with these so-called modern miracles. The menswear market changed profoundly with the convenience of synthetic fabrics and the excitement that surrounded the power of science embodied in these clothes. Some Australian men turned to the “Your Clothes” feature in Man: The Australian Magazine for Men to understand what being “well-dressed” meant across these years of rapid change. A suit was a key component. Though pure wool had long been the cloth of choice, those made from new synthetics or a blend of wool and artificial fibers proliferated at the time. This article explores the efforts of Man’s fashion columnists to help their readers navigate the changes taking place to textiles across 1950–1965 by developing their material literacy. It further captures how the mid-century fiber wars played out across the pages of the magazine, contributing a distinctly Australian perspective to the global competition for consumers that was shaped by the nation’s pride in its fine wool and its intensifying efforts to combine the fiber’s natural advantages with those of “modern science.”

Deep eutectic solvent-mediated one-step eggshell removal and anti-felting of wool

The sheep lice eggshells and felting are both important problem in wool industry. Deep eutectic solvents (DES) are a class of eco-friendly and low-cost solvents that are used in various fields including the anti-felting of wool but not in the eggshell removal. In this study, the simultaneous removal of wool scales and lice eggshells using [ChCl:Urea] was achieved by optimizing the formula and condition. Satisfactory eggshell removal (80.0%) and anti-felting rates (22.7%) had little effect on the mechanical strength of the wool (12.1%). The mechanism of the beneficial effects was studied using scanning electron microscopy and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. The loose structure of protein cement is conducive to the penetration of DESs to achieve complete disintegration and dissolution. In contrast, the dense wool structure prevents DESs from penetrating the interior and only removes the surface scales. In addition, dissolution of eggshells by DES also helps in its removal. To our knowledge, this is the first report of DES-mediated one-step eggshell removal and anti-felting of wool. Through economic and environmental effects analyses, DES-based technique exhibits a more promising potential for industrial applications. This work not only has significant application prospects in the wool industry, but also the application scenarios of DESs.

Assessing the effectiveness of traditional wool scouring for small-scale farmers in South Africa: a study on detergents and scouring time

Purpose The South African wool industry is integral to the country's agricultural sector, particularly sheep farming and wool production. Small-scale farmers play a vital role in this industry and contribute to employment and food security in rural communities. However, these farmers face numerous challenges, including a lack of funding, poor farming practices and difficulty selling their wool at fair prices. This study aims to address these challenges, the University of Free State launched a wool value chain project for small-scale farmers. Design/methodology/approach In this project, one of the studies conducted assessed the effectiveness of different detergents suitable for traditional wool scouring methods for small-scale farmers who lack access to sophisticated machinery. The investigation was conducted by scouring 160 wool samples using three different detergents and filtered water as a control. The wool samples were then evaluated for their cleanliness, brightness and fibre properties through a combination of scanning electron microscopy, spectrophotometry and statistical analysis at different scouring times (3, 10, 15 and 20 min, respectively). Findings The results showed that the combination of scouring time and the type of scouring solution used could significantly impact wool quality. It was found that using a combination of standard detergent or Woolwash as a scouring solution with a scouring time of 10–15 min resulted in the best outcome in terms of fibre property, wool colour and scouring loss. Originality/value This study demonstrated that traditional wool scouring methods could be an option for small-scale farmers and anyone who want to learn how to scour wool without expensive machinery to make wool products.

Experimental Study of Wool Shearing of Karakol Sheep of Different Constitutional Types

The wool of Karakol sheep has the highest weight compared to other types of wool in Uzbekistan and is one of the main sources of raw materials for the coarse wool industry. At the same time, it is much higher in quality than other coarse wool. Karakol sheep's wool was second only to Karakol hides in terms of value and value, but due to the conditions of the market economy, it fell to third place after meat products. During the transition from the sale of wool to the market economy, many farms lost money. Gradually, by the second period of reforms, woolen raw materials have their price, and the income increasing.

Two mutations at KRT74 and EDAR synergistically drive the fine-wool production in Chinese sheep

IntroductionFine-wool sheep are the most common breed used by the wool industry worldwide. Fine-wool sheep have over a three-fold higher follicle density and a 50% smaller fiber diameter than coarse-wool sheep. ObjectivesThis study aims to clarify the underlying genetic basis for the denser and finer wool phenotype in fine-wool breeds. MethodWhole-genome sequences of 140 samples, Ovine HD630K SNP array data of 385 samples, including fine, semi-fine, and coarse wool sheep, as well as skin transcriptomes of nine samples were integrated for genomic selection signature analysis. ResultsTwo loci at keratin 74 (KRT74) and ectodysplasin receptor (EDAR) were revealed. Fine-scale analysis in 250 fine/semi-fine and 198 coarse wool sheep narrowed this association to one C/A missense variant of KRT74 (OAR3:133,486,008, P = 1.02E-67) and one T/C SNP in the regulatory region upstream of EDAR (OAR3:61,927,840, P = 2.50E-43). Cellular over-expression and ovine skin section staining assays confirmed that C-KRT74 activated the KRT74 protein and specifically enlarged cell size at the Huxley’s layer of the inner root sheath (P < 0.01). This structure enhancement shapes the growing hair shaft into the finer wool than the wild type. Luciferase assays validated that the C-to-T mutation upregulated EDAR mRNA expression via a newly created SOX2 binding site and potentially led to the formation of more hair placodes. ConclusionsTwo functional mutations driving finer and denser wool production were characterized and offered new targets for genetic breeding during wool sheep selection. This study not only provides a theoretical basis for future selection of fine wool sheep breeds but also contributes to improving the value of wool commodities.

Entrepreneurial networks in localized embedding practices: a case study from the Norwegian micro wool industry

ABSTRACT This paper expands and contextualizes relational perspectives on entrepreneurial practice by considering local embeddedness in networks, a hitherto under-investigated area in entrepreneurship research. Local embeddedness emphasizes the importance of the social aspect in shaping entrepreneurial practices. Therefore, our study explores the role of networks in localized embedding practice. Using a qualitative case study of the wool industry in Norway, we investigate how creative entrepreneurs work through local networks to anchor their entrepreneurial opportunities. The analysis uncovers four main themes that constitute the main pillars and framework of localized embedding practices: (i) accessing localized knowledge across spatial contexts, (ii) localized co-creation in recognizing opportunities, (iii) localized opportunity legitimization and (iv) moving the knowledge front of embedded localized practice through bridging. The study contributes to existing literature by developing content and enhanced understanding of localized embedding practices, how they unfold and are acted on, to create value that is sustainable.

Recycling in the production of mineral wool

The main heat-insulating material used in Russia is mineral wool. One of the problems of waste reclamation of mineral wool products is returning of chips and globules back to the solid fuel furnace. To solve the problem, it is proposed to briquette waste before feeding it into the furnace. The author suggests using alumina cements of Russian production as a binder. The choice of the binder is conditioned by the chemical composition of the cement. The second factor that was considered when choosing the binding material was its strength in the early stages. Samples of a mixture of waste and binder were pressed into cylinders and then heat treated for an hour. As a result of the study, the dependences of the impact strength of the samples on steam curing temperature and the humidity of the samples have been obtained. It has been revealed that an increase in humidity has a greater effect on the rise in impact strength than an increase in temperature. Results: the dependence of the impact strength of briquettes made of the mineral wool industry waste and alumina cement on humidity and curing temperature has been revealed, which will make it possible to select optimal conditions for returning of waste to the furnace.

The English Woollen Industry, c.1200–c.1560. John Oldland. Routledge Research in Early Modern History. Abingdon: Routledge, 2019. xvi + 358 pp. $160.

The English Woollen Industry, c.1200<i>–</i>c.1560. John Oldland. Routledge Research in Early Modern History. Abingdon: Routledge, 2019. xvi + 358 pp. $160.

Simultaneous lice eggshell removal from wool and anti-felting with a single protease treatment

The residue of wool lice eggshells and felting are both important factors that affect the quality of wool. Since the main components of the eggshell cement and the wool scales are proteins, it is possible to remove the eggshells and decrease felting at the same time by protease treatment. In this work, AtP, a fungal protease from Aspergillus tubingensis, was discovered to be suitable for simultaneous eggshell removal and anti-felting. By optimizing the process, AtP can remove 88% of the eggshells and reduce the feltability by 29.4%, with only 6.3% reduction in the tensile strength of the wool. Mechanistic studies show that AtP is sensitive to the flatness of substrate surface and the density of disulfide bonds, which endows its relative selectivity between eggshell cement and wool. To our knowledge, this work reports the first ecofriendly technique to complete eggshell removal and anti-felting in one step, which will be not only beneficial for the wool industry, but can also be extended to similar use for pet or human hair.

A Single Nucleotide Polymorphism in the WIF1 Promoter Region Regulates the Wool Length in Rabbits

Wool length is an important trait in the rabbit wool industry. Wnt inhibitory factor 1 (WIF1), a key gene, regulates hair follicle growth and development. This study explores the WIF1 gene relationship with wool production traits in three different rabbit breeds, Rex rabbit, New Zealand rabbit, and Angora rabbit. The rabbit WIF1 gene sequence was obtained from GenBank, and PCR and Sanger sequencing were applied to screen SNP (single nucleotide polymorphism) from the gene exons and promoter regions. Sequencing results found no SNP in the PCR products of 10 exons from the rabbit WIF1 gene, indicating that the WIF1 gene was not polymorphic. Thus, the gene was conserved in all three rabbit breeds. Only one SNP was found in the WIF1 promoter region, associated with wool-producing traits in rabbits. Luciferase activity assays showed that the AA genotype had higher transcriptional activities than the AG or GG genotype (p &lt; 0.01). In addition, WIF1 was significantly upregulated in the Rex rabbit compared to the New Zealand rabbit and Angora rabbit (p &lt; 0.01). In summary, a key SNP in the WIF1 promoter region was found to be associated with rabbit fiber length trait.