Wool Fabrics Research Articles

Investigation of Dyeing Behaviors of Bio-mordanted Wool Fabric Dyed with Natural Dye

Abstract In this research, green dyeing treatment of wool fabrics was examined with natural dye extracted from Beta vulgaris (beetroot) with an ultrasonic-assisted method. Wool fabric samples were treated with ascorbic acid, sodium carbonate, and tannic acid with different concentrations and durations via the ultrasonic-assisted method before dyeing treatment. The usability of ascorbic acid, sodium carbonate, and tannic acid was investigated as a bio-mordant agent in the natural dyeing process. After the pre-treatment with different substrates, the samples were colored with the natural dye obtained from beetroot for 5 min with the ultrasonic-assisted method. The dyeing parameters’ effects were investigated on the colorimetric and fastness properties. According to the results, Fourier transform infrared spectra indicate that there are no important dissimilarities in the functional groups of wool fabric samples with the pre-mordanting process. The experimental results show that ascorbic acid, sodium carbonate, and tannic acid are used as bio-mordants. Furthermore, the pre-mordanting process, mordant agent type, mordant concentration, and mordanting time had an effect on the fastness and colorimetric behaviors of the samples. Color strength results demonstrated that ascorbic acid mordant improved the color strength of the samples (K/S increased from 3.51 to 4.63), attributing darker shades (lower lightness, L) to the wool fabric. The light fastness of samples improved from 1 to 2 with the use of ascorbic acid for 15 min mordanting time. Furthermore, the best results for color change, washing, and rubbing fastness were obtained by using tannic acid as a mordant and increasing the mordanting time. In addition, the following dyeing characteristics of wool fabrics are estimated using an artificial neural network (ANN) model. In accordance with the experimental outcomes, the suggested approach obtains regression values of more than 0.97 for all dyeing characteristics. As can be shown, the suggested approach is accomplished and can be utilized effectively for predicting colorimetric properties of wool fabric. It has been concluded that the ultrasonic-assisted method is an environmentally sustainable dyeing process of textile fibers, and bio-mordants have rendered the dyeing treatment greener and more sustainable.

Pretreatment of granatum dye solution and its application in eco-dyeing of wool

Natural dyes attract attention due to their biodegradability and environmental compatibility. To improve the color depth and color fastness of granatum dyeing of wool fabrics, granatum dyes were pretreated by alkaline agent and the dyeing process was investigated. Granatum dyes were completely dissolved by salt-forming reaction in an alkaline environment, and after adjusting the pH to 3 with acetic acid, the dyes did not precipitate immediately but maintained high solubility during the dyeing process. When the amount of dyes used in the dyeing bath was 5% (o.w.f.), pH of the dye bath was 3, the dyeing temperature was 98 °C, the dyeing time was 90 min, the dyed wool fiber achieved the values of 9.04, 4, and 4–5 for the Integ value, color change and color stain, respectively. This paper presents an easy and effective route to obtain high color depth and good color fastness for wool by polyphenol plant dyes.

Empires of Obligation: Law, Money, and Debt between England and the Ottoman Empire, 1670–1720

During the 1690s, both the English and Ottoman states developed new institutions for longer-term borrowing and reformed their imperial monetary systems. These synchronous but divergent developments present a puzzle that has not been answered by rigidly separate English and Ottoman historiographies. “Empires of Obligation” follows merchants trading between England and the Ottoman Empire to understand how both states responded differently to the challenges of global trade and fiscal crisis. At this time, English merchants were the most powerful European traders in the Ottoman Empire, and the Ottoman Empire represented England’s greatest single market for its woolen textiles, its largest industry. As Levant Company merchants swapped woolens for silk, they also blended international private credit with domestic public finance. They were the largest merchant investors relative to the size of their trade in the Bank of England and helped facilitate Ottoman longer-term public borrowing through the mālikāne system. From within England’s bureaucracy, they also worked to ease global trade through an “intrinsic value” theory of money, the idea that coins represented a government commitment to provide a fixed amount of precious metal. At the same time, the Ottoman state sought to redefine money as an instrument of the state, not a tool of trade. Following merchants who themselves bridged two empires that are rarely compared shows interconnected but divergent responses to the challenges of making money work both within and between states at the end of the seventeenth century.

Wool Fabric with an Improved Durable Biological Resistance Using a Coumarin Derivative.

Wool is the most widely used proteinic natural fiber in the clothing industry by virtue of its versatile properties. Unfortunately, wool, as a natural fiber, is more susceptible to attack by microorganisms and moths, which may cause harm to the fiber and human health. That is why the antimicrobial and mothproof finishing of natural textiles is of prime importance to the textile and clothing industry. Herein, wool fabric was treated with the synthesized 6-aminocoumarin adopting the pad-dry-cure technique with or without a cross-linker. The treated wool fabric was evaluated for its antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. The treated wool fabric was also tested for moth-proofing performance against Tineola Bisselliella through assessing the fabric weight loss. Various analyses were conducted to assign the alteration in the structure of the treated wool fibers, viz., urea-bisulfite solubility, carboxylic content, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, and X-ray diffraction pattern (XRD). Scanning electron microscopy displayed the surface of wool fabric before and after treatment. Some physical and mechanical properties were also assessed. Results revealed that treated wool fabric showed a bacterial resistance to Gram +ve and Gram -ve bacteria, in addition to its improved resistance to moth larvae attack without deterioration in the fabric's inherent properties.

Development Of Innovative Waterless Patterned Wool Fabric Designs Obtained Via Laser Technology

The main goal of this study is to present a more environmentally friendly and sustainable approach in fabric patterning and thus to ensure the protection of natural resources for the green consensus that is important today and to minimize the damage we give to the environment. When the literature is examined, it is seen that studies on the applications of laser technology, which offers the opportunity of waterless patterning, have intensified especially after the 2000s in the textile field, but there are still few studies. Although there are small laboratory-scale studies, no study has been found on the adaptation of these results to production conditions. Therefore, it can be said that the contribution of the study to the literature is important and original. In this study, first of all, the effect of laser treatment on the dye uptake ability and fastness values of wool fabrics was investigated. For this purpose, laser treatments were applied to the fabrics at different resolutions (17 and 20 dpi) and pixel times (60 and 70 µs) before dyeing. In the second part of the study, the possibilities of waterless laser patterning were investigated on fabrics subjected to laser treatment at different doses regionally. As a result of the studies, an alternative method to printing processes was developed for obtaining patterns on wool fabrics without using water and chemicals. Thus, a more environmentally friendly and sustainable approach was presented in fabric patterning.

Dyeing of synthetic fiber-based wool blended fabrics in supercritical carbon dioxide

AbstractDevelopment of supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO2) dyeing technology for natural fabrics and their blended fabrics is essential for the textile industry due to environmental and economic considerations. Wool (W), polyester (PET) and nylon (N) fabrics and their wool/polyester (W/PET) and wool/nylon (W/N) blended fabrics were dyed in SC-CO2 medium with a synthesized reactive disperse dye containing a vinylsulphone (VS) reactive group, which behaves as a disperse dye for synthetic fibers and a reactive dye for protein fibers. The SC-CO2 dyeing performance of all fabrics was investigated in terms of color strength, fixation, colorimetric and fastness measurements and compared with the conventional aqueous dyeing method. The results obtained indicate that the VS reactive disperse dye structure and non-polar PET component mainly improved colour strength (K/S) values of the dyed PET fabric and W/PET blended fabrics in SC-CO2 compared with those in the aqueous medium. Also, SC-CO2 dyeing has a notable influence on a*, b* and C* values of the dyed PET, N and W/PET fabrics and showed that the uptake of the VS reactive disperse dye and their appearance colors are higher and more saturated than the aqueous dyed samples. The levelling and fastness properties of all dyed fabrics in SC-CO2 medium are similar to those obtained in the aqueous medium. It was observed that VS reactive disperse dye penetrates well into the PET fabric and is chemically bound with the W fabric using both SC-CO2 and aqueous media and did not display significant color difference (∆E) values of W, PET and W/PET fabrics even after 20 washing cycles. The study claims that the VS reactive disperse dye structure and dyed PET-based wool blended fabric are good candidates for industrially SC-CO2 dyeing technology.

A Novel Biodegradable Technology for Wool Fabric Restoration and Cotton Color Retention Based on Shikimic Acid and L-Arginine

The textile and garment care industries significantly impact ecological conditions and resources worldwide. Possible ways of minimizing the harmful influence on the environment include giving a preference to natural textiles; reducing the consumption rate by extending the lifespan of clothes, e.g., preserving colors and fibers; and using biodegradable garment care products. Wool is a natural fabric that must be washed with special laundry care products to preserve its initial appearance. Currently, there are no approaches that focus not only on preserving but also restoring wool fibers. To investigate the efficacy of biodegradable technology, consisting of natural-derived shikimic acid and L-arginine, in the restoration of wool fabric, SEM was applied. To analyze the obtained data, a novel three-point scale was suggested. In comparison with untreated samples, the composition promoted a smoothing of the scale structure of wool fibers of up to 34.87%. The system has shown efficacy in both the low pH (fabric softener) and high pH (laundry gel) systems. To further investigate biodegradable technology, the color retention of dark-colored cotton fabric was tested. It was shown that the composition promotes 96.15% color preservation after 10 laundry cycles when used in the fabric softener. Biodegradable technology is a promising solution for the maintenance of wool fabrics and color preservation solutions.

Temperature During Convective Drying of Thin Flat Wet Materials

. The basic laws of the kinetics of drying thin flat materials during the period of drop in the drying speed are outlined. A method for calculating the average integral temperature of wet material on the basis of the relative temperature coefficient of drying is presented. Experimental data are processed based on the relative drying rate in the drying processes of ceramics, asbestos, and woolen fabric. A formula for calculating the average temperature is proposed. The solution of the differential equation of thermal conductivity for a wet plate during the drying process (namely during the period of drop in the drying speed) under boundary conditions taking into account the conditions of drying is given. The calculation of the heat transfer coefficient is given, too. Based on the study of various sources and processing of experimental results, formulas for calculating the thermal conductivity coefficient of wet materials have been presented. The analytical solution of the problem confirmed that during convective drying in low-intensity processes of the second drying period, the temperature change with a decrease in moisture content turns from an exponential dependence smoothly into a linear one, which is completely consistent with the experiment. A comparison of the temperature calculation by the experimental formula with the results of analytical solutions has been presented. A sufficiently reliable coincidence of experimental and calculated analytical values of temperature for the period of drop in speed drying of ceramics, asbestos, and fabric is obtained.

Effect of gluing garment materials with adhesive inserts on their multidirectional drape and bending rigidity

Abstract The article concerns the study on multidirectional drape and bending rigidity of six wool (clothing) fabrics with two types of adhesive inserts. The aim of research was to investigate the effect of joining woolen fabrics with “Freudenberg Vilene” adhesive inserts on the bending rigidity and multidirectional drape. The adhesive inserts were differentiated according to mass per square meter, while the fabrics were differentiated according to thickness, weave, and mass per square meter. Based on the scientific literature, the issues related to the methods of testing the bending rigidity and multidirectional drape coefficient were discussed. All the conducted tests were aimed at the proper selection of adhesive inserts for the designed clothing products. The use of adhesive inserts affects the bending stiffness and multidirectional drapeability of clothing material. The fabric weave significantly affects the values of bending rigidity and drapeability. As the thickness of adhesive inserts increases, the overall bending rigidity increases. The greater the fabric mass per square meter, the stiffer the fabric. As the mass per square meter and thickness increase, the multidirectional rigidity of fabrics increases. The value of bending rigidity for the plain fabric is higher compared to twill fabric.

Natural colourants from Sargassum polycystum C.Agardh (Phaeophyceae) for fabric dyeing: an eco-friendly method for textile colouring by response surface methodology

ABSTRACT Natural dyes have promising potential in the textile industry as a sustainable and eco-friendly alternative to synthetic dyes. In this study, a natural dye was extracted from the brown alga S. polycystum using a microwave-assisted extraction method under various extraction parameters. Response surface methodology (RSM), which combines transformational models and sequential technologies, was used in this study to improve the procedure. Response surface models were developed to correlate the extraction yield with four parameters, namely, algal concentration, pH of extraction medium, extraction time and temperature. Dyed and undyed wool fabrics were characterized by scanning electron microscope (SEM). The results demonstrated that the colour strength (K/S) of dyed wool increases by decreasing the pH, increasing the dyeing temperature, dye concentration and time of dyeing process. The optimal level of pH, dye concentration, dyeing temperature and time for obtaining the highest K/S was 2.3 g 50 ml‒1, 120°C and 15 min, respectively. Dyeing of wool fabric processed under the optimal conditions showed strong anti-bacterial and anti-fungal activity and good colour-fastness properties.

Nanoengineered Wool Textiles with Wrinkled Patterns for Enhanced Directional Radiative Cooling and Sun-Shade Effects

Nanoengineered Wool Textiles with Wrinkled Patterns for Enhanced Directional Radiative Cooling and Sun-Shade Effects

Encapsulation of the PHMB with nanoliposome and attachment to wound dressing for long-term antibacterial activity and biocompatibility.

Concentration control of some drug are used commonly however their uncontrolled concentration renders severe side effects. Therefore, it is substantial to come up with innovation release control methods. There is a strong affinity between the phospholipid of nanoliposomes and wool cells which facilitate the diffusion of liposomes into the wool structure. On the other hand, polyhexamethylene biguanide (PHMB) has gained popularity as an antibacterial agent; however, the compound's cytotoxicity has limited its usefulness. By compounding these facts, this work introduces a novel method for sustained drug release via internalization. In this method, PHMB was detained into nanoliposomes infiltrated the wool to generate an extremely regulated release, which was established using various techniques. SEM pictures demonstrated effective absorption of nanoliposome-encapsulated PHMB within the wool fabric. The developed wound dressing showed a sustained drug release, and consequently, perfect biocompatibility and enduring antibacterial activity.

Assessment of dyed wool fabrics with henna as natural dye

Assessment of dyed wool fabrics with henna as natural dye

Investigation of the oxidative self- polymerization of dopamine under alkaline conditions on wool fabrics

Most studies about polydopamine in the textile field have been related to cotton fibers. There are not many studies about the use of polydopamine on wool fibers. A limited number of studies have focused on the coloring of wool, whereas wool is the fiber with the highest variety of intermolecular attraction forces among all natural and man-made fibers. Polydopamine contains high amounts of catechol and amine functional groups due to its structure. In this study, different from the literature, oxidative self-polymerization of dopamine was achieved on wool fabric for different periods of time, and the coated fabrics were examined with characterization tests and spectrophotometrically. In this study, lower values were obtained than lightness (L*) values reported for other fibers in previous studies, and it was concluded that the wool-PDA interaction is superior to other fibers. Scanning electron microscopy and energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy results showed that the polymerization and nano-coating formed successfully and continued to remain on the surface after washing. The lowest lightness value was obtained in the 32 h coating. However, the lowest color change after washing was in the 16 h coating (0.44%). This result showed that the coating was completed within 16–32 hours and there was only accumulation on the surface in the later times.

Application of Gan Embroidery (Yuzhang Embroidery) in Neo-Chinese-style Woolen Clothing with the Inheritance of Intangible Cultural Heritage

Abstract This paper investigates the emergence of Neo-Chinese-style clothing and the integration of Gan Embroidery techniques in the design of Neo-Chinese-style woolen clothing in the context of intangible cultural heritage. Neo-Chinese-style clothing represents a contemporary evolution of traditional Chinese attire, amalgamating elements of Chinese traditional dress culture and making a notable presence in the modern fashion industry. This study initiates by presenting the current status of Neo-Chinese-style clothing, encompassing its styles, patterns, techniques, and its influence on the international fashion stage. Subsequently, this research places a significant emphasis on the embroidery craftsmanship within the design of Neo-Chinese-style woolen clothing, emphasizing the importance of embroidery in conferring distinctive three-dimensionality and cultural aesthetics to the clothing. Through the synthesis and analysis of design cases from both domestic and international brands, this study illustrates the application of Gan Embroidery in Neo-Chinese-style clothing design. Finally, this research summarizes the primary contributions of the study, including an enhanced comprehension of the development of Neo-Chinese-style clothing and the burgeoning role of embroidery craftsmanship in the international fashion industry. Additionally, this research explores potential future research directions to deepen our understanding of Neo-Chinese-style clothing and traditional craftsmanship.

EXPLOITING ECO-FRIENDLY NATURAL DYES FROM PLANT SOURCES: EXTRACTION AND DIVERSE APPLICATIONS

Natural pigments extracted from plant sources offer eco-friendly and sustainable alternatives to synthetic colorants. In this study, pigment samples were obtained through aqueous extraction from beetroot (S1), red cabbage (S2), and turmeric (S3). Their physicochemical properties and potential applications were thoroughly evaluated. The research problem addressed in this study is the need to overcome the limitations of natural dyes, such a slower color fastness, reduced reproducibility, and limited color range, in order to promote their wider adoption in various industries as sustainable alternatives to synthetic colorants. The pigment extracts were assessed for their suitability in textile dyeing, paper pH indicators, food coloring, ink production, and natural stamp pad formulations. Cotton and wool fabrics were dyed by adding traditional mordants, and the pigment-treated textiles exhibited distinctive color changes and varying levels of color fastness. The pigment samples demonstrated the ability to act as effective acid-base indicators, displaying characteristic color transitions in response to varying pH levels. When used as natural food colorants, the extracts imparted attractive hues to rice and cream without altering their flavor profiles. The feasibility of incorporating these plant-derived pigments in ink manufacturing and stamp pad production was also explored. Beetroot pigment exhibited superior color retention and fastness properties, while red cabbage and turmeric extracts displayed effectiveness in selected applications. The findings of this comprehensive study highlight the viability of these plant sources as natural substitutes for synthetic colorants in diverse fields. The observed performance characteristics and the eco-friendly nature of the pigments underscore their potential to serve as sustainable alternatives in various industries.

Caramel doped with aromatic compounds as halogen- and phosphorus-free flame-retardant strategy for wool fabric

The development of halogen- and phosphorus-free flame-retardant strategies is urgently needed in textile industry. In this study, a caramel product doped with aromatic compounds was developed via caramelization and aldol reactions using glucose and p-phthaldialdehyde. The modified caramel (Car@PDA) was subsequently used as a sustainable approach to improve flame retardancy of wool fabric. The flame retardancy, washing durability, heat generation, and flame-retardant mode of action of Car@PDA on wool fabric were investigated. The modified wool fabrics showed excellent flame retardancy, with the limiting oxygen index increasing to 32.5 % and the damaged length decreasing to 10.1 cm, with good self-extinguishing capacity. Car@PDA could combine with wool fibers through Schiff base reaction and electrostatic attraction, so the modified wool fabrics still self-extinguished and met the B1 flame-retardant requirements after 10 washing cycles. The modified wool showed significantly decreased heat release capacity and fire growth rate, suggesting high fire safety. Car@PDA promoted the decomposition of the fabric to form char barrier, thereby achieving an effective flame-retardant effect. In addition, the Car@PDA modification had a minimal effect on the tensile strength and handle of wool fabric. This study provides an innovative way to create bio-based, halogen- and phosphorus-free flame-retardants for protein wool fabrics.

Antibacterial and mothproofing wool fabrics modified by M-Arg/PHMG and ZnO

The increasing focus on sustainable and eco-friendly materials has sparked a growing interest in wool as a natural fiber for sustainable fashion, thanks to its skin-friendly properties, warmth, breathability, renewability and biodegradability. The advancement of wool fabrics with durable antimicrobial and moth-resistant qualities could significantly enhance the utilization of wool in the production of high-quality textiles. This study investigates the synthesis of M−Arg and polyhexamethylene guanidine hydrochloride (PHMG) and their application in the surface modification of wool fibers, with an evaluation of the antimicrobial properties of the treated fabrics. Initially, plasma was used to pre-treat the wool fibers, followed by the adsorption of M−Arg and PHMG and ZnO in situ on the fibers’ surface. The antibacterial effectiveness against gram-positive (Staphylococcus aureus, S. aureus) and gram-negative (Escherichia coli, E. coli) microorganisms was assessed through antibacterial testing of the M−Arg/PHMG/ZnO-Fiber (MPN-Fiber). Results showed that the MPN-Fiber exhibited a significantly higher antimicrobial rate compared to untreated wool fiber. The prepared MPN-Fiber inhibited E. coli and S. aureus by 99.64 ± 1.04 % and 96.47 ± 2.14 %, respectively. Additionally, the MPN-fiber has good washing resistance (20 times, lose only 10 %). The experimental results clearly demonstrated that the MPN-Fiber exhibited exemplary antibacterial and moth-proof properties, confirming the success of the innovative surface modification approach.

Innovative integration of chitosan biopolymer for felt-free woolen fabric: A synergistic approach with digital textile printing

Wool, renowned for its ancient legacy and unique attributes, is a prized textile fiber with versatile applications in various domains. However, the susceptibility to shrinkage due to the scaly structure of overlapping cells (scales) in the cuticle poses a challenge, prompting the widespread adoption of chlorination to enhance resistance to felting and shrinkage. This research explores the potential of chitosan biopolymer as an effective anti-felting agent and enhancer of wool dyeability. With its non-toxic, biocompatible, and biodegradable properties, chitosan is a promising substitute for various textile finishes. Recent innovations include chitosan’s contribution to improving the digital printing process, particularly in enhancing color strength and sharpness on cotton fabric. Identifying a research gap in exploring the synergistic potential of chitosan for anti-felting, this study introduces an alkaline hydrogen peroxide pre-treatment to enhance chitosan absorption through the pad-dry-cure method. Chitosan, acting as a binder, is strategically applied in the pre-treatment to fix pigments with reactive inks during inkjet printing. Critical process parameters, such as chitosan concentration, curing temperature, and time, were optimized for area shrinkage (%) to achieve a felt-free property for wool. Subsequent optimization focuses on color strength, print sharpness, and washing durability of digitally printed patterns. The results obtained from this research were quite promising in terms of K/S value, wettability, pilling behavior, tensile strength, edge sharpness, washing fastness, and fabric shrinkage resistance.

Hidden From History: Children and Young People in the Woollen Mills of the Stroud Valleys in the Early Nineteenth Century

The Stroud area of Gloucestershire was a major producer of woollen cloth up to the late nineteenth century. This article describe the roles that children and young people played in the industry. It fills a gap in local historiography; and shows that over the 1830s the pattern of children’s employment in the mills of the area changed such that by the end of the decade, following legal restrictions on working hours for children, those under 13 were rarely employed. This contrasts with the woollen industry in the West Riding of Yorkshire where many children remained in the workforce. The article also argues that distinguishing between ‘children’ and ‘young people’ is neccessary in the context of the emotive phrase ‘child labour’.