Wool Fabrics Research Articles

Green fabrication of inkjet printed antibacterial wool fabric with natural gardenia yellow dye

The application of chemical synthetic dyes causes serious environmental pollution and high energy consumption. Natural plant dyes have become the most promising alternative in textile printing and dyeing processing with lower carbon emission. In this work, the properties of water-soluble gardenia yellow natural dye in inkjet printing of wool fabrics were studied in detail. The results of multiple light scattering showed that the gardenia yellow dye ink had high stability. The surface tension and viscosity of the ink can be adjusted by polyol-based organic solvents to obtain a stable droplet morphology. The influence mechanism of sodium polyacrylate sizing agent and polyol solvent on color depth and contour clarity of printing pattern have been deeply studied. After tannic treatment, gardenia yellow inkjet printed wool fabric can obtain satisfactory color fastness. At the same time, gardenia yellow dye endowed wool fabrics with good antibacterial property, and the antibacterial rate against S. aureus and E. coli can exceed 95%. In this study, both inkjet printing and color fixing process are green and non-pollution, which provides an idea reference for the production of natural green antibacterial textiles.

Functional and Colorful Wool Textiles through Ecological Dyeing with Lemon Balm Bio-Dyes and Mordants

Functional and Colorful Wool Textiles through Ecological Dyeing with Lemon Balm Bio-Dyes and Mordants

Effect of liquid ammonia and protease on surface modification and shrink resistance of wool

In order to improve the surface properties of wool fiber, the wool fabric was treated with liquid ammonia and protease treatments successively. The results showed that liquid ammonia pretreatment could cause certain damage to the surface structure and disulfide bonds in keratin, which enhanced the action of protease on wool surface and catalytic hydrolysis of the cuticle. The joint treatment of liquid ammonia and protease changed the secondary structure of wool. The content of α‐helix and random crimp increased, while the content of β‐sheet decreased. In addition, the shrink resistance of wool fabric was significantly improved without obvious losses in tensile strength and elongation. The combination of liquid ammonia and protease treatments provides a potential new method for the surface modification and eco‐friendly shrink‐resistant finishing of wool and further widens the application of liquid ammonia in textile industry.

An eco-friendly technique for shrink-resist finishing of dyed wool via combined use of hydrolase and cyclamate

Savinase 16L as a type of mature protease for shrink-resist finishing can effectively hydrolyze wool scales, but it is also easy to penetrate into the cell membrane complex (CMC) layer, even easily causing undesired fiber damages. In this study, Savinase 16L was combinedly used with a protective agent of cyclamate, achieving an increase in the size of enzyme protein molecules through the intermolecular forces. This combined operation was intended to make it difficult for protease to enter the CMC layer, conferring protease a more concentrated actions towards wool scales. Meanwhile, a commercial keratinase was applied for wool pretreatment to loosen the structural integrity by hydrolyzing the disulfide bonds in wool scales. The combination use of hydrolase (20 U/mL of keratinase, and 6.5 U/mL protease) and 10 g/L cyclamate endowed the dyed wool fabric with encouraging shrink-resist property, achieving a felting shrinkage of 5.4% ± 0.55% with an acceptable strength loss of 12.3% ± 1.2%. More importantly, color hue of the wool fabric almost did not change compared with to that with chlorination method. As an eco-friendly and energy-saving strategy, it provides an efficient alternative for shrink-resist finishing of white and dyed wool fabrics, and expands the application of biotechnology in wool industry.

Regulation of cashmere fineness traits by noncoding RNA in Jiangnan cashmere goats

BackgroundCashmere has long been used as the raw material for wool textiles. The diameter of the cashmere fibre determines its quality and economic value. However, the regulatory role of noncoding RNAs (ncRNAs) in cashmere fineness remains unclear, especially regarding the interaction between ncRNAs and coding RNAs.ResultsTranscriptome sequencing was used to identify the expression profiles of long noncoding RNAs (lncRNAs), circular RNAs (circRNAs) and microRNAs (miRNAs) in the skin tissues of Jiangnan cashmere goats with different cashmere fineness levels. Integration analysis of ncRNA and coding RNA was performed in combination with previous research results. The results showed that 16,437 lncRNAs, 2234 circRNAs, and 1322 miRNAs were identified in 8 skin samples of cashmere goats. A total of 403 differentially expressed (DE) lncRNAs, 62 DE circRNAs and 30 DE miRNAs were identified in the skin tissues of the fine groups (Fe) and coarse groups (Ce). We predicted the target gene of DE lncRNA, the target gene of DE miRNA and the host gene of DE circRNA. Based on functional annotation and enrichment analysis of target genes, we found that DE lncRNAs could be involved in regulating the fineness traits of cashmere. The most potential lncRNAs were MSTRG.42054.1, MSTRG.18602.3, and MSTRG.2199.13.ConclusionsThe data from this study enriched the cashmere goat noncoding RNA database and helped to supplement the annotation of the goat genome. The results provided a new direction for the breeding of cashmere characters.

Dyeing and Functionalization of Wool Fabric with Alizarin Red S via Covalent Combination Catalyzed by Horseradish Peroxidase and Hydrogen Peroxide

Dyeing and Functionalization of Wool Fabric with Alizarin Red S via Covalent Combination Catalyzed by Horseradish Peroxidase and Hydrogen Peroxide

Wool Fabric Dyeing with Natural Dye Extracted from Cinnamomum verum J. Presl Fruit

Wool Fabric Dyeing with Natural Dye Extracted from Cinnamomum verum J. Presl Fruit

Turncoats and traitors, rogues and renegades: reviewing labour’s lost leaders in reform-era Yorkshire

ABSTRACT The annals of working-class agitational endeavours in the early nineteenth century contain more than a sprinkling of rogues who ran off with money, and renegades who abjured their earlier beliefs. They also include a few turncoats and traitors who turned their backs on their former colleagues and went over to the ‘other side’. This article explores the public careers of two reform-era renegades from the West Riding woollen textile district: John Tester and George Beaumont. Both were prominent local figures who turned coat in the pivotal year of 1834. An examination of the context and nature of their treachery attests to the importance but also the fragility of local leadership. The article argues that the special place that popular leaders held in their communities went beyond notions of fame and celebrity; but that this bond, once broken, was not easily repaired. Examining the villains as well as the heroes of labour history enables us to appreciate the local energies and tensions that underpinned popular movements and to put into context the resilience of leaders who lasted the course.

Natural Dyeing with Madder: Exploring Traditional Techniques and Color Characteristics

Abstract The color red has a significant presence in cultures around the world. The organic dye madder, derived from plants, has been used throughout human civilization and remains an important natural dye. The research reviews five traditional madder dyeing techniques from China, Europe, Turkey, and Japan. The techniques are applied to cotton, linen, silk, and wool fabrics, and their similarities and differences are compared and analyzed. Additionally, the environmental sustainability, resource conservation, and process efficiency of these dyeing techniques are also evaluated in this article. The chromatic value of dyed textile color was tested by means of an American Hunterlab spectrophotometer, the influence of different dyeing techniques on textile color characteristics was analyzed, and the artistic features of textile color were analyzed from the perspective of visual art.

The effect of cordura fiber integration on the yarn quality properties of wool and wool/lycra yarn

Cordura fiber, which has high performance against tearing and abrasion, can be used to improve the tear strength and abrasion resistance of low-weight wool/lycra fabrics that can be suitable for daily wear. Thin wool fabric is very comfortable to wear, but lighter fabrics are more prone to appearance problems, since they are less able to resist the forces responsible for the distortions. This study aims to investigate the effect of cordura fiber integration on the yarn quality properties of wool and wool/Lycra yarn. Cordura fiber was integrated into wool and wool/Lycra yarn structure with different fiber percentages and were tested according to related the standard methods to evaluate yarn quality properties such as breaking force, breaking length (RKM), elongation at break, unevenness (CV%), yarn imperfection (thick, thin places and neps) and hairiness.

Zeytinyağı Üretim Atıklarının Yün Boyamacılığında Kullanım Olanaklarının Araştırılması

In this research, the dyeability of wool fabrics by using olive oil production waste was investigated. In this study, olive oil wastes were separated into two components as olive oil wastewater and pomace by filtration method. 100 % wool fabrics were dyed with conventional method with olive oil wastewater. In addition, the pre-mordanting method was preferred as the mordanting method. Alum, ferrous sulphate, tannic acid and tartaric acid were used as mordant materials, and various mordant concentrations and different mordant durations were studied. In dyeing, 100 % olive oil wastewater was used as dyeing liquor and all dyes were dyed in 1:20 liquor ratio. Color analyses of dyed fabrics were made, CIEL*a*b* and K/S values were examined. In addition, the coloring agents in olive oil wastewater were investigated by HPLC analysis. Light fastness, washing fastness, wet and dry rubbing fastness, acidic and alkaline perspiration fastness and water stain fastness were investigated.

Dyeing performance of wool fabric with natural pigment from Cordyceps militaris

As a sustainable and ecological dye resource, the biomass materials are receiving more and more attention. In this work, the pigments in Cordyceps militaris were extracted and applied for dyeing wool fabrics, and the various properties were investigated. The extracted pigments and dyed wool fibers were analyzed and characterized by ultraviolet–visible (UV-Vis) spectroscopy, Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS) and Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. The single-factor experiments were used to screen and optimize the dyeing process. Six metal mordants with different use order were compared with each other, and their possible mordanting mechanisms were proposed. The color fastnesses, UV resistance and antioxidant properties were evaluated after dyeing. The results showed that UV-Vis, LC-MS and FTIR analysis confirmed that the main components of C. militaris extract was lutein. The optimal dyeing process for the extract was as follows: dyestuff mass 200% (o.m.f.), dyeing temperature 90 °C, dyeing time 45 min, bath pH 5.0, Na2SO4 mass 0 g/L. Metal ions are added to form chelate bonds between the dyes and the fibers, further improving the color fastness. The dyed fabric exhibits excellent UV resistance and its UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) value increases with the color yield. Meanwhile, the dyed wool fabric could exhibit up to 94.77% antioxidant activity. These results provide new insight for the application of C. militaris pigments on wool fabric.

Green Application of Isolated Colorant from Neem Bark for Mordant-Coated Wool: Optimization of Dyeing and Mordanting for Shade Development

This study aimed to assess the effectiveness of utilizing a tannin-based natural brown colorant from neem bark for dyeing wool under microwave treatment, specifically evaluating its coloring efficiency. The colorant was extracted in a methanol solution that had been acidified both before and after being subjected to microwave treatment for up to 6 min. The dyeing variables were optimized to create new shades of dye with desirable fastness properties, and sustainable chemical and bio-mordants ranging from 1 to 10 g/100 mL were employed. Through experimentation, it was determined that when an unirradiated acidic methanolic extract (AME) with a salt concentration of 3 g/100 mL was applied onto wool fabric (RWF) and subjected to microwave treatment for 4 min, it resulted in a high color yield. This was achieved by heating the solution to 65 °C and allowing it to remain in contact with the fabric for a duration of 65 min. Favorable color characteristics were achieved when utilizing a pre-chemical mordant of 5% Fe and a post-chemical mordant of 5% Fe. In contrast, the utilization of 7% henna as a pre-bio-mordant in combination with 3% turmeric extract as a meta-bio-mordant resulted in favorable color characteristics. The study concludes that microwave treatment exhibits outstanding sustainable efficacy in isolating colorants from neem bark powder for wool dyeing. Incorporating bio-mordants further enhanced the process’s sustainability and eco-friendliness.

Catechin-rich reddish-brown dye from cocoa (Theobroma cacao L) leaf for functionalizing herbal-anchored wool fabrics

Colorists are seriously worried about the long extraction time, low color yield and colorfastness of natural dye obtained via conventional extraction techniques. In this study, microwave (MW)-aided extraction technique was exploited as an alternative method to the conventional extraction technique. The cocoa leaf extraction parameters were varied for obtaining optimal extraction conditions. Likewise, dyeing and mordanting parameters were varied for achieving dyed wool fabric with preferred tint strength (K/S) and colorfastness. The colorimetric properties of MW-aided cocoa leaf extract (CL) dyed wool fabrics were compared to those of the conventional extract dyed fabrics. The antioxidant, antibiotic and ultraviolet protection properties (UPP) of un-dyed, MW-irradiated CL dyed and mordanted wool fabrics were evaluated for healthcare functional properties. MW-irradiation enhanced the dye yield by 33.82%, reduced the extraction time by 90% and increased tint yield by 44%. The optimal dyeing conditions were liquor ratio 1:20, pH 6, 45 min dyeing time and temperature of 65 °C. Post-mordanting with 5% Fe2+ and 9% Al3+ as chemical-mordants enhanced K/S and colorfastness of the dyed fabric from good to very good, while 3% neem and 7% moringa bark extract as herbal-anchors improved the dyed fabrics’ K/S and colorfastness from good to excellent. Dyeing enhanced the poor antioxidant and antibiotic properties of MW-irradiated fabrics to excellent, which was further boosted after mordanting process. All the fabrics possess desired UPP. Desired healthcare functional properties of MW-assisted CL dyed wool fabrics after fifth laundry cycle established CL extract as a potential future sustainable colorant for producing healthcare wears.

‘The American Look’: The transformation of women’s sportswear in 1930s and 1940s America

This article will suggest that the American sportswear style reflects the unique historical and cultural influences on American dress from the birth of the new democratic nation in the eighteenth century to the dominance of New York City’s ready-to-wear industry in the 1950s. Focusing on the key decades of the 1930s and 1940s, this article will explore the marketing campaign of Dorothy Shaver, vice-president of the luxury retailer Lord & Taylor, who in 1932 coined the phrase ‘the American Look’ to promote American fashion designers’ collections. The legacy of sportswear designer Claire McCardell, arguably the best known of the New York-based ready-to-wear designers will be examined. McCardell’s combination of nostalgic American prairie style with the use of everyday workwear fabrics of cotton plaid, denim, wool and jersey created an unpretentious casual American style based on comfort, ease and flexibility, which is reflected today in the contemporary American ready-to-wear market. The article will maintain that the promotion of the American Look via photographic shoots, magazines, advertisements, visual merchandising, exhibition and film influenced the style and taste of dress that the female American body ought to ‘fit into’. This style, it will be argued, encouraged the development of a cultural memory of American dress by establishing a material link between national identity and clothing.

Valorization of Sulfonated Kraft Lignin as a Natural Dye for the Sustainable Dyeing of Wool Fabrics: Effect of Peroxide Oxidation

Valorization of Sulfonated Kraft Lignin as a Natural Dye for the Sustainable Dyeing of Wool Fabrics: Effect of Peroxide Oxidation

A novel wool dye synthesised via recycling of side fraction of petrol: metal naphtenates (cyclohexane dicarboxylates)

The study aims to produce naphthenates (cyclohexane dicarboxylate) obtained from side fractions of petrol and used as dyestuff in the textile sector to abate waste-oriented pollution and to reutilize petroleum-based wastes. The investigations showed that obtaining blue dyestuff from copper, red dyestuff from cobalt and yellow dyestuff from nickel was possible. Moreover, it was determined that wool fabric could be dyed with good colour fastness with the dyestuffs mentioned. Therefore, this will help to reduce environmental pollution by addressing a novel and beneficial area of usage for naphthenates, produced via waste recycling.

Sustainable and green process for recycling waste wool textiles into high-quality protein fibers on a pilot scale

For the first time, waste wool textiles have been recycled into high-quality protein fibers via protein dissolution. Traditional mechanical wool recycling, with serious damage to protein fibers and limited color styles on fibers, only boosts 5% of post-consumer wool recycling rate. Other recycling is hindered due to the failure of dye removal and protein dissolution. Here, we have developed green and sustainable processes of complete dye separation, establishment of desirable molecular entanglement in protein dissolution, and recovery of crosslinkages in spun fibers. More than 80% of waste wool was recycled into protein fibers, which were comparable to virgin wool fibers, with retention of more than 90% of mechanical, wet, and dyeing properties of virgin wool. Recycled dyes, completely separated from proteins via the disruption of molecular interactions in wool and controlled protein precipitation, were reused and demonstrated the desired dyeability without generating dye wastes.

Utilization of Microencapsulated Thyme Essential Oil for Aroma Treatment of Wool Fabric

Background: With rising global trends and changing lifestyles in fashion, beauty as well as healthcare, the awareness of consumers has enforced the evolution of specialty value-added textiles. Essential oils and basic aromatherapy ingredients are microencapsulated and applied to the materials to provide a therapeutic effect and long-lasting aromas. The present study was carried out to prepare thyme essential oil microcapsules using a complex coacervation technique. The prepared microcapsules were applied on wool fabric using pad-dry-cure method by optimizing various variables of aroma treatment.
 Methods: Thyme essential oil was used based on its aromatic and therapeutic properties. A complex coacervation technique of microencapsulation was used to prepare thyme oil microcapsules. The padding bath components and treatment variables were optimized based on the presence of microcapsules on wool fabric as observed under a stereo zoom microscope, aroma durability to washing and improved properties of treated material regarding bending length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery angle. The aroma treatment was given on wool fabric using pad-dry-cure method.
 Results: Optimized variables for aroma treatment were 60 g/l microcapsule gel, two g/l softeners and ten g/l binder concentration, 1:20 material to liquor ratio, 35 ºC temperature, and 30 minutes treatment time as at these conditions more number of microcapsules, longer wash durability and better fabric properties in terms of bending length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery angle were observed. Aroma-treated wool fabric were dried at 70 ºC temperature for 4 minutes and cured at 100 ºC for 60 seconds.
 Conclusions: Thyme essential oil has many reported therapeutic properties therefore microencapsulated thyme basic oil-treated wool fabric can be used for apparel, home, and healthcare textiles. Higher concentrations of microcapsule gel and lower concentrations of softener and binder promoted the deposition of a maximum number of microcapsules on wool fabric. Complex coacervation techniques of microencapsulation for preparation of thyme essential oil microcapsules and pad-dry-cure method to impart durable aroma treatment on wool are needed to acquire long term sustained finish.

Encapsulated lemon oil and metal nanoparticles in biopolymer for multifunctional finishing of cotton and wool fabrics

This study examined the utilization of different metal nanoparticles encapsulated in biopolymer material in the presence or absence of lemon oil to cellulosic and proteinic fabrics to obtain textile material with mosquito-repellent, fragrance, and antibacterial Properties. Encapsulation of lemon oil into the biopolymers was performed using the mechanical homogenizing mixing method. several treatments for textile materials using pad-dry-packing procedures were devolved in the presence or absence of metal nanoparticles. the natural polymers were used in various concentrations (3%, 5%, and 10%). For each polymer, varied concentrations with encapsulated oil were utilized. Different methods were used to investigate the finished textile materials in terms of their physical-mechanical characteristics. The treated fabrics with AgNPs (5%) encapsulated in gelatin biopolymer give higher antimicrobial activity; the treated fabrics with TiO2NPs (5%) encapsulated in pectin biopolymer give higher mosquito repellent activity; and the treated fabrics with ZnONPs (5%) encapsulated in gelatin biopolymer give higher UPF values. The physical and mechanical qualities of the treated textiles perform well when compared to untreated cloth.