Hydrodynamic Wave Research Articles

Hydrodynamic modulation instability triggered by a two-wave system.

The modulation instability (MI) is responsible for the disintegration of a regular nonlinear wave train and can lead to strong localizations in the form of rogue waves. This mechanism has been studied in a variety of nonlinear dispersive media, such as hydrodynamics, optics, plasma, mechanical systems, electric transmission lines, and Bose-Einstein condensates, while its impact on applied sciences is steadily growing. It is well-known that the classical MI dynamics can be triggered when a pair of small-amplitude sidebands are excited within a particular frequency range around the main peak frequency. That is, a three-wave system, consisting of the carrier wave together with a pair of unstable sidebands, is usually adopted to initiate the wave focusing process in a numerical or laboratory experiment. Breather solutions of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLSE) revealed that MI can generate much more complex localized structures, beyond the three-wave system initialization approach or by means of a continuous spectrum. In this work, we report an experimental study for deep-water surface gravity waves asserting that a MI process can be triggered by a single unstable sideband only, and thus, initialized from a two-wave process when including the contribution of the peak frequency. The experimental data are validated against fully nonlinear hydrodynamic numerical wave tank simulations and show very good agreement. The long-term evolution of such unstable wave trains shows a distinct shift in the recurrent Fermi-Pasta-Ulam-Tsingou focusing cycles, which are captured by the NLSE and fully nonlinear hydrodynamic simulations with some distinctions.

Computational study on complex wave hydrodynamics of multidirectional extreme waves at fringing reef

Due to the special topography of coral reefs, most of the energy of incoming waves can be reduced through the wave breakings at the reef edge, thus playing a vital role in protecting the coastal regions behind coral reefs. In severe weather conditions, wind-generated waves tend to propagate in multiple directions in real ocean environment. The abrupt multidirectional wave-focusing mechanisms may result in the formation of huge waves in both deep and shallow waters, threatening the safety of coastal infrastructures and well-being of coastal communities at the reef islands. Therefore, it is crucial to thoroughly examine the complex hydrodynamics of multidirectional extreme waves at the fringing reefs. Previous studies on reef wave hydrodynamics predominantly focus on unidirectional waves. Only a small number of studies have considered the wave hydrodynamics of fringing reefs under multidirectional waves, let alone multidirectional extreme waves. To address the knowledge gap in previous studies, this study analyzes the complex hydrodynamic processes of multidirectional extreme waves at the fringing reef by applying a nonhydrostatic numerical wave model (NHWAVE). Influences of several key factors are analyzed, such as significant wave height, peak wave period, water depth, incident wave angle, and reef topography. It is expected that the research findings of this study will contribute to a deeper understanding of the hydrodynamics of multidirectional extreme waves at the fringing reef.

Effects of nonlinearity on Anderson localization of surface gravity waves

Anderson localization is a multiple-scattering phenomenon of linear waves propagating within a disordered medium. Discovered in the late 50s for electrons, it has since been observed experimentally with cold atoms and with classical waves (optics, microwaves, and acoustics), but whether wave localization is enhanced or weakened for nonlinear waves is a long-standing debate. Here, we show that the nonlinearity strengthens the localization of surface-gravity waves propagating in a canal with a random bottom. We also show experimentally how the localization length depends on the nonlinearity, which has never been reported previously with any type of wave. To do so, we use a full space-and-time-resolved wavefield measurement as well as numerical simulations. The effects of the disorder level and the system’s finite size on localization are also reported. We also highlight the first experimental evidence of the macroscopic analog of Bloch’s dispersion relation of linear hydrodynamic surface waves over periodic bathymetry.

Sedimentary characteristics and geological significance of a mixed-process delta for petroleum exploration in the Zhuhai formation of the Baiyun Depression, Pearl River Mouth Basin, China

The Zhuhai Formation in the Baiyun Depression of the Pearl River Mouth Basin in the northern South China Sea is a marine delta influenced by multiple hydrodynamic forces, including rivers, waves, and tides, resulting in a mixed-process delta. As a result of the combined effects of these forces, the distribution patterns and reservoir structures in the sandstone formations of the Zhuhai Formation are extremely complex. This paper provides a detailed description of the coring section of the Zhuhai Formation drilled in the Baiyun Depression, focusing on the lithology, sedimentary structure, special containers, and depositional dynamics of the coring section. It also summarizes the characteristics of a hybrid power delta controlled by rivers, waves, and tides, and explores the geological significance of this mixed-process delta for oil and gas exploration. The study reveals that sedimentation controlled by rivers primarily consists of medium-to-fine sandstones with interbedded cross-bedding and parallel bedding. Scour-fill structures and a bell or box-shaped natural gamma ray logging curve (GR) are also observed. Seismic reflection exhibits strong amplitude and high continuity. Wave-controlled sedimentation, on the other hand, predominantly consists of silt and fine sandstones with scouring, wave-formed cross-bedding, abundant bioturbation, and a serrated and funnel-shaped GR curve. Seismic reflection shows medium amplitude and high continuity. Tidally-controlled deposits are characterized by thin interbeds of mudstone, siltstone, and fine sandstone, as well as vein laminations, undulating composite laminations, lenticular laminations, and biclastic layers. The GR curves for tidally-controlled deposits are sharp or jagged with funnel shapes, and seismic reflections exhibit medium amplitude and continuity. The hydrodynamic features controlling sedimentation during the depositional period of the Zhuhai Formation in the Baiyun Depression exhibit evident zonation on a planar scale, influenced by sedimentary paleogeography and sea-level changes. River control is predominant in the northern Zhuhai Formation, with local wave influence and minimal tidal influence. In the southern part, tidal action becomes increasingly important. In terms of reservoir properties, wave-controlled reservoirs display significantly better porosity and permeability compared to tidally-controlled and river-controlled reservoirs. Tidally-controlled reservoirs exhibit high heterogeneity with a wide range of porosity and permeability values. The varying influences of different hydrodynamic drivers in different locations have led to significant variations in the size, morphology, and physical properties of sand bodies within the marine delta sediments of the Zhuhai Formation in the Baiyun Depression. Thus, the type and intensity of sedimentary hydrodynamics become the primary controlling factors for the development of high-quality reservoirs.

Assessment of reliable wave climate at jetty on open coasts: role of 2D spatio-temporal spectrum

ABSTRACT The development of coastal roads and bridges is important to overcome traffic congestion in densely populated coastal cities like Mumbai. In the present study, the importance of assessment of wave conditions required for the extension of jetties to facilitate the transportation of bridge components to build the sea link bridge during non-monsoon season is envisaged so that zero downtime for operability at jetties is ascertained. Coupled hydrodynamic spectral wave model (Telemac-2D and TOMAWAC) used to hindcast waves reveals that the application of spatio-temporal varying 2D directional spectrum (from ERA-5) over the offshore boundary as a forcing function helps in propagation of realistic wave climate of Mahim Bay, Mumbai. Coupling of the TOMAWAC-ARTEMIS model is essential to obtain reliable wave conditions near the jetties (nearshore) for predominant directions. The study reveals that under existing conditions, downtime at proposed jetties will be for 30 days wherein Hs ≥ 0.3 m. As such to achieve zero downtime, the existing bund on the seaward side of jetties was extended optimally (70 m) so that smooth operability for the entire non-monsoon is achieved. Thus, application of spatio-temporal varying 2D spectrum in optimising the length of the guide bund has been found promising for speedy transportation of proposed bridge components. The study also reveals that there is an insignificant climatological impact on wave conditions.

Tsunami Runup Attenuation By Onshore Obstacles

In a time of climate emergency due to global warming, nature-based coastal defence systems are attractive solutions for flood mitigation and adaptation. Coastal forests such as mangroves have received a growing interest for their disaster mitigation effectiveness such as water flow energy dissipation, hence helping communities to become more resilient (Iimura & Tanaka, 2012). The role of coastal forests as a defence measure was highlighted in the aftermath of the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami, which claimed the lives of more than 200,000 people and displaced millions more across fourteen countries. Post-disaster damage observations indicated that forests, particularly mangroves, reduced the impact of the tsunami wave in some locations. As a result, significant international relief and reconstruction efforts focused on extensive forest replantation of coastlines (Satake, 2014). The role of coastal vegetation in reducing the severity of tsunami waves has been studied since. Several studies using physical modelling and computational approaches have provided insights into the wave attenuation provided by coastal vegetation, in terms of relationships between incident hydrodynamic conditions, forest configurations and wave height decay. However, there are still many gaps in knowledge, particularly in quantifying the efficacy of coastal forests in reducing inland hydrodynamic conditions (Tomiczek et al., 2020). It is therefore essential to improve the understanding on how wave heights, velocities and runup are influenced by the characteristics of the “obstacles”, e.g. the forest density, as well as the incident hydrodynamic conditions, e.g. the wave period. This study aims to address these questions conducting physical experiments using the novel pneumatic Tsunami Simulator (TS) developed by HR Wallingford together with UCL (Rossetto et al., 2011).

Optical solutions for a quintic derivative nonlinear Schrödinger equation using symmetry analysis

In this paper, the derivative nonlinear Schrödinger equation with time-dependent-coefficient coefficients (DNLS) has been studied. This model is widely used in the hydrodynamic wave packets studies and optical fiber optics. The DNLS will be solved using a traveling wave transformation and Lie point symmetry analysis which is considered as a powerful tool that can be used in finding exact solutions of nonlinear partial differential equations (NLPDEs). The Lie symmetry technique provides a general way to obtain invariant solutions for NLPDEs. Some new exact solutions of the DNLS are obtained in the form of hyperbolic functions, Jacobi elliptic functions and Weierstrass elliptic function. The obtained waves have the forms of bright, dark and rogue waves soliton solutions which are considered as new solutions of the studied equation. The results established in this paper are new and extend the numbers of previously published results.

Numerical modeling for representation of wave-induced currents. Application to the port of Ilo-Peru

The objective of this article is to represent the wave-induced currents in the areas near the port of Ilo, with the use of SMC software and a self-developed program in Matlab. In the present study, the parabolic RefDif, for a monochromatic wave model was used for the wave module. The numerical model developed in Matlab allows representing the hydrodynamics of waves and induced currents based on the Navier Stokes equations and mass conservation, in differential form with two spatial dimensions (x, y) and one temporal (t). This model was developed taking into consideration the variables averaged in the vertical z axis and variable draft, considering the phenomenon of protrusion and refraction that the waves suffer when approaching the coastal zone of shallow waters. The model developed in Matlab was validated for the simplified case of straight beaches

Maser flares driven by isothermal shock waves

ABSTRACT We use 3D computer modelling to investigate the time-scales and radiative output from maser flares generated by the impact of shock waves on astronomical unit-scale clouds in interstellar and star-forming regions, and in circumstellar regions in some circumstances. Physical conditions are derived from simple models of isothermal hydrodynamic (single-fluid) and C-type (ionic and neutral fluid) shock waves, and based on the ortho-H2O 22-GHz transition. Maser saturation is comprehensively included, and we find that the most saturated maser inversions are found predominantly in the shocked material. We study the effect on the intensity, flux density, and duration of flares of the following parameters: the pre-shock level of saturation, the observer’s viewpoint, and the shock speed. Our models are able to reproduce observed flare rise times of a few times 10 d, specific intensities of up to 105 times the saturation intensity and flux densities of order 100(R/d)2 Jy from a source of radius R astronomical units at a distance of d kiloparsec. We found that flares from C-type shocks are approximately five times more likely to be seen by a randomly placed observer than flares from hydrodynamically shocked clouds of similar dimensions. We computed intrinsic beaming patterns of the maser emission, finding substantial extension of the pattern parallel to the shock front in the hydrodynamic models. Beaming solid angles for hydrodynamic models can be as small as 1.3 × 10−5 sr, but are an order of magnitude larger for C-type models.

Wave trapping by porous breakwater near a wall under the influence of ocean current

In this paper, oblique water wave interaction with a surface piercing box-type porous structure placed in front of a vertical rigid wall is investigated in the presence of current, which flows parallel to vertical wall. The current speed is considered distinct in different subdomains. However, in a particular subdomain current speed is uniform throughout the water depth. In this analysis, Sollitt and Cross model is used for the study of wave motion inside the porous structure. Employing small amplitude linear water wave theory, the present model of our interest is developed into a boundary value problem and solved analytically using the eigenfunction expansion method. Using the developed solution, the reflection coefficient and hydrodynamic wave forces on porous structure are computed for different values of parameters: the dimension of porous structure, the friction coefficient of porous structure, the current speed of following current and opposing current. This research paper suggests that suitable arrangement of rigid walls and surface-piercing partially extended porous structures can be an effective and economical approach for guiding ocean currents and protecting marine facilities against wave attacks.

Integrated Modeling of Coastal Processes Driven by an Advanced Mild Slope Wave Model

Numerical modeling of wave transformation, hydrodynamics, and morphodynamics in coastal regions holds paramount significance for combating coastal erosion by evaluating and optimizing various coastal protection structures. This study aims to present an integration of numerical models to accurately simulate the coastal processes with the presence of coastal and harbor structures. Specifically, integrated modeling employs an advanced mild slope model as the main driver, which is capable of describing all the wave transformation phenomena, including wave reflection. This model provides radiation stresses as inputs to a hydrodynamic model based on Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations to simulate nearshore currents. Ultimately, these models feed an additional model that can simulate longshore sediment transport and bed level changes. The models are validated against experimental measurements, including energy dissipation due to bottom friction and wave breaking; combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking over a submerged shoal; wave transformation and wave-generated currents over submerged breakwaters; and wave, currents, and sediment transport fields over a varying bathymetry. The models exhibit satisfactory performance in simulating all considered cases, establishing them as efficient and reliable integrated tools for engineering applications in real coastal areas. Moreover, leveraging the validated models, a numerical investigation is undertaken to assess the effects of wave reflection on a seawall on coastal processes for two ideal beach configurations—one with a steeper slope of 1:10 and another with a milder slope of 1:50. The numerical investigation reveals that the presence of reflected waves, particularly in milder bed slopes, significantly influences sediment transport, emphasizing the importance of employing a wave model that takes into account wave reflection as the primary driver for integrated modeling of coastal processes.

Modelling Turbulent Flows near Coastal Structures Using Various Turbulence Models

Introduction. The reduction in beach width due to erosion is a significant issue that can either be mitigated or exacerbated by coastal protection structures. Modelling breaking waves near the coast and around coastal structures can be used to determine their impact on the dynamics of the coastal zone. The objective of this study is to model and analyze the dynamics of turbulent structures around a single breakwater, obtained using two turbulence modelling schemes: RANS and LES.Materials and Methods. Turbulence induced by breaking waves was investigated. The modelling was based on bathymetric measurements conducted along the Azov Sea coast and a three-dimensional wave hydrodynamics model supplemented with various turbulence calculation configurations.Results. Modelling results of wave processes generating turbulent flows in the presence of coastal protection structures using different turbulence models were obtained. Results obtained based on Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations are compared with the results of Large Eddy Simulation (LES) approach with Smagorinsky dynamic subgrid-scale model (DSM).Discussion and Conclusions. The results showed that wave heights simulated by LES were higher than those simulated by RANS in the front and leeward regions of the coastal protection structure and were lower in its upper part. Thus, according to LES, a greater amount of wave energy was preserved after passing over the breakwater. Velocity vectors of the water medium showed the formation of a vortex when LES was used, whereas no evidence of such turbulent vortices was detected in the case of RANS, confirming the better performance of LES for turbulence modelling in the coastal zone. According to the presented results, LES is the preferred tool for generating turbulence under incoming wave conditions in engineering practices.

Parallel Numerical Implementation of Mathematical Wave Hydrodynamics Models Taking into Account the Features of the Vertical Turbulent Exchange Using Remote Sensing Data

Parallel Numerical Implementation of Mathematical Wave Hydrodynamics Models Taking into Account the Features of the Vertical Turbulent Exchange Using Remote Sensing Data

Numerical investigation of infragravity wave hydrodynamics at fringing reef with a permeable layer

In tropical and subtropical coastal regions, coral reefs are abundant and play a vital role in maintaining ecosystem balance. Additionally, they effectively dissipate a significant amount of wave energy that propagates from the open sea towards the coastline, providing coastal areas with protection against wave impacts. Consequently, numerous scholars have conducted extensive research to investigate the hydrodynamic characteristics of wave propagation and transformation over coral reef topography. However, previous studies have often simplified the bottom boundary of coral reefs as impermeable layers, neglecting the fact that the coral reef consists of a permeable canopy structure in the actual marine environment. To fill the knowledge gap of previous research, this study is based on the Non-Hydrostatic Wave Model Solver (NHWAVE) to numerically simulate the propagation process of random waves over permeable coral fringing reefs. The study takes a comprehensive approach by considering the influences of various factors on the hydrodynamic characteristics of random waves over the fringing reef, including incident wave height, reef-flat water depth, peak wave period, permeable layer thickness, permeable layer porosity, and median diameter of the permeable layer. This paper focuses primarily on analyzing the variations in sea-swell wave height (HSS), infragravity wave height (HIG), and mean water level (MWL) along the fringing reef, while conducting a comparative analysis between fringing reefs with a permeable layer and impermeable fringing reefs. The findings reveal that the presence of a permeable layer reduces the shallow water deformation of waves on the fore-reef slope and mitigates the wave-breaking phenomenon near the reef edge, thereby significantly reducing the sea-swell wave height (HSS), infragravity wave height (HIG), and wave setup on the reef-flat. Furthermore, the permeable layer's existence also leads to a decrease in the maximum wave run-up height on the back-reef slope. The research findings of this study can further enhance our understanding of the hydrodynamic characteristics of infragravity waves over fringing reefs, which is significant for studying the impact of random waves on coastal areas and understanding the protective mechanisms of coral reefs in coastal regions.

Assessment of Dead Ship Condition by the IMO Second Generation Intact Stability Criteria for 5000HP Tug Boat

_ The International Maritime Organization (IMO) has been discussing technical issues by dividing the second-generation intact stability criteria for ships into five types. In this paper, we paid attention to the dead ship condition and introduced the process for the assessment of Levels 1 and 2 in detail. Dead ship condition refers to a case where a large angle of rolling motion occurs due to waves incident on the side of the ship’s hull after the ship’s engine has failed. Basically, in the dead ship condition, if the Level 1 criterion for analysis related to the GZ curve is not satisfied, an evaluation is performed against the Level 2 criterion considering the hydrodynamics of waves. The method for the effective wave slope function required to obtain the spectrum of the effective relative roll angle, which is the most important factor in the calculation of Level 2, was implemented. In particular, unlike existing ship types in terms of various experiences, this study performed stability evaluation using special ship data of a 5000HP tug boat and obtained results that satisfied both Level 1 and 2 standards. Through this example of dead ship condition evaluation for a tug boat, we aim to ensure the expansion of IMO second-generation intact stability evaluation targets for various types of ships. Keywords IMO second generation intact stability criteria; dead ship condition; GZ curve; effective wave slope function; tug boat

A viscous investigation on the hydrodynamic coefficients and wave loads under the interaction of side-by-side cylinders in regular waves

The paper introduces a two-dimensional Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes Computational Fluid Dynamics (RANS CFD) model to investigate the effects of adjacently floating bodies on the hydrodynamic coefficients and wave loads acting on these bodies. The analysis considers two square cylinders with a narrow gap in way of the free water surface. The physical significance of subsections of the hydrodynamic coefficient matrix becomes evident when comparing coefficients obtained from oscillating-oscillating versus oscillating-fixed models. This understanding is significant, particularly in applications where only specific portions of the hydrodynamic coefficient matrix are utilized, such as in ship-ice collision scenarios (Jiang et al., 2023a). The correlation between wave loads and wave elevations reveals that the sway force and roll moment are associated with the disparity in wave elevation at both sides of each cylinder, while heave forces correlate with the averaged wave elevation on both sides of each cylinder. It is concluded that hydrodynamic interactions are sensitive to the displacement of a floater and accordingly can dominate added mass and damping effects.

Evaluation of synthetic sponge to control wave-induced currents in coastal waters

Based on National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) Coral Reef Conservation Program, climate change causes coral bleaching. In response to the high roughness of coral colonies and reduced current velocity, coral reefs in near-shore regions are susceptible to accumulation of pollutants or sediments. This threatens coral reef ecosystems and causes several challenges. Controlling the wave velocity, Turbulent Kinetic Energy (TKE), and vortical structures help enhance advection/diffusion of particles from coral reef zones.In the current study, a device inspired by a marine sponge (synthetic sponge), was designed. A suction/pumping function was devised through two concentric perforated cylinders to simulate this mechanism in the synthetic sponge. Several physical and numerical experiments (using OpenFOAM software considering RANS modeling) were carried out to investigate the effects of geometrical characteristics (i.e., cylinder and perforation diameters) of synthetic sponge on wave hydrodynamics. Accordingly, wave attenuation, mean horizontal and orbital velocities, turbulent kinetic energy, and vortex structures were evaluated. In summary, the results indicated that the pumping flow can act as an energy recovery downstream of the sponge, and the horizontal velocity and TKE growing in the water column due to generation of special vortices. Therefore, the current synthetic sponge can improve momentum transfer.

Numerical simulations of wave-soil-structure interactions for a subsea cover

Glass-reinforced plastic (GRP) subsea protection covers are widely used to prevent damage to offshore pipelines placed on the seabed from dropped objects, hydrodynamic wave induced loads, and trawling. The light GRP subsea covers could be stabilized by using skirts which penetrate the seabed soil. The dynamic wave pressure acting on the cover will transfer to the cover bottom and the skirt and further influence the pore pressure and seepage flow inside the soil beneath the cover. The present study performs a numerical analysis for the wave-soil-structure interaction (WSSI) of a subsea cover. Two-dimensional (2D) numerical simulations are carried out using an open-source numerical toolbox for modeling the porous seabed interaction with waves and structures under the framework of the finite-volume-method (FVM) based OpenFOAM. The nonlinear waves are solved to obtain the dynamic wave loadings on the cover and the pressure on the seabed. A soil consolidation model is used to provide the initial effective stress in the soil. Then, a one-way coupling algorithm is applied for the WSSI analysis to obtain the soil response in the vicinity of the cover. The distributions of the wave-induced pore pressure, the soil shear stress, and the seepage flow within the seabed are studied and the influences of the wave heights and the skirt lengths are discussed.

Nonlinear dynamics of a heaving spar-floater system integrated with inerter pendulum vibration absorber power take-off for wave energy conversion

A power take-off based on the inerter pendulum vibration absorber (called IPVA-PTO) is integrated with a spar-floater system to study its hydrodynamic response suppression and wave energy conversion capabilities in regular waves. The hydrodynamics of the spar-floater system is computed using the boundary element method with linear wave theory. With the wave height and wave frequency as the bifurcation parameters, it is found that the system can undergo two bifurcations: period-doubling bifurcation around the first resonance frequency (spar mode) and secondary Hopf bifurcation around the second resonance frequency (floater mode). The period-doubling bifurcation results in an energy transfer between the spar-floater system and the IPVA-PTO for small electrical damping values. As a result, the IPVA-PTO system simultaneously reduces the maximum response amplitude operator (RAO) of the spar and increases the normalized capture width in comparison with the optimal linear benchmark. Experiments performed on a “dry” single-degree-of-freedom system integrated with the IPVA-PTO where the base excitation is substituted for the wave excitation verify the simultaneous performance enhancement due to the period-doubling bifurcation. The system performance beyond the period-doubling bifurcation is also experimentally investigated. On the other hand, as the wave height approaches and passes the secondary Hopf bifurcation, the pendulum responses transition from primary harmonic responses to quasi-periodic responses to rotations. When the rotations occur, the IPVA-PTO system increases the maximum normalized capture width threefold to fivefold compared with the optimal linear benchmark, yet slightly increases the RAO around the second resonance frequency. Nevertheless, the RAO remains smaller than the global maximum RAO of the optimal linear benchmark. Finally, parametric studies are performed to study the effects of parameters on the bifurcations. It is observed that by varying the electrical damping, the wave height required for achieving the period-doubling bifurcation can be changed significantly, which can be exploited to stabilize the spar.

Analysis of Wave Characteristic in Fuel Terminal Serui

The Serui Fuel Terminal is a vital state-owned facility distributing fuel oil throughout Yapen Island, Papua Province. However, this facility has a problem: waves or overtopping, which can even cause damage to existing facilities. This research aims to determine the hydrodynamic process and wave characteristics through theoretical analysis and numerical modeling using Mike21 with Hydrodynamic (HD) and Spectral Wave (SW) Modules. Bathymetry, current and tidal data collected in the field and wave data collected from ECMWF, calibration is carried out by comparing modeling output (currents & tides) with the results of observations and wave propagation and transformation study theoretically and compared with the results of wave modeling, so the accuracy of the modeling results can be reviewed. The validation results of tidal modeling with a MAPE (Mean Absolute Percentage Error) value of 0.3%, current modeling with a MAPE value of 30%, and waves from each orthogonal with an average MAPE of 15%. Generally, wave height on the shoreline is 0.3-0.4 m (calm waves), and the cause of the overtopping that occurs is due to the geometry and type of existing coastal buildings with smooth sloping sides and impermeable, which makes the wave height double with a run-up height 0.6-0.8 m