PurposeStitching is the traditional method of creating seams using needles and threads. However, this is not useful for waterproof breathable garments as needle holes allow water to penetrate inside the garment, compromising its functionality. This study aims to investigate different techniques for covering the needle holes formed during stitching to achieve a seam that is waterproof, durable and functionally effective.Design/methodology/approachThis study investigates different methods to cover needle holes formed during stitching with the help of seam tape, seam grip adhesive and fuser thread. The emphasis is on evaluating the seam characteristics, including seam strength, seam efficiency, puckering, bending stiffness and resistance to water penetration. Statistical analysis involves the use of the Shapiro–Wilk test, Levene statistic, one-way ANOVA and Tukey’s HSD and Tamhane post-hoc tests.FindingsThe experimental results suggest that seam tape is effective in enhancing water resistance, seam strength and seam efficiency, but it contributes to stiffness and aesthetically degrades seams due to increased puckering. Meanwhile, the use of fuser thread presents an alternative, exhibiting improved waterproof properties compared to regular stitching. It offers more flexibility and less puckering compared to seam tape.Originality/valueThis study contributes novel insights by shifting the focus from alternative seaming methods such as bonding and welding, to enhancing traditional stitching for waterproof seam construction. While prior research primarily explored alternatives to stitching, this study uniquely addresses the effectiveness of different techniques in covering needle holes to achieve waterproof seams. The findings provide valuable information for enhancing the functionality of stitched seams in the production of waterproof breathable garments.