Abstract Introduction and aims The majority of the world’s population reside in places with high levels of air pollution. The impact of air pollution on human health has been extensively studied and demonstrates a significant correlation between particulate matter (PM) and risk of cardiovascular and respiratory diseases. However, little is known about the impact of air pollution on human skin health. Here, we develop an ex vivo skin model to investigate cutaneous changes induced by the topical application of PM. Methods PM (0, 0.5, 3, 6, 10, 20 and 40 μg mL−1) was topically applied to Genoskin® NativeSkin Access® (Genoskin, Salem, MA, USA) human ex vivo skin samples of White European ancestry (n = 3) for 8 days, with reapplication on day 4. Resultant samples were assessed using haematoxylin and eosin staining (for morphometric analyses), immunofluorescence for Ki67 and terminal deoxynucleotidyl transferase dUTP nick-end labelling (TUNEL) (to determine cellular turnover), while pigmentary changes were analysed by colourimetry, Warthin–Starry (WS) staining and immunohistochemistry for the melanin markers tyrosinase (TYR), gp100 and c-kit. Results Morphological assessment revealed that epidermal thickness was significantly reduced following exposure to higher doses of PM (r = −0.9163, P < 0.01). In addition, there was reduced epidermal cell proliferation (Ki67) and increased apoptosis (TUNEL) at higher doses of PM. Exposure to PM resulted in a dose-dependent decrease in individual typology angle, which is indicative of skin colour becoming darker (r = −0.7895, P < 0.05). Furthermore, WS staining demonstrated significantly increased epidermal melanin (r = 0.9583, P < 0.01) and significantly increased expression of melanin markers TYR (P < 0.01), gp100 (P < 0.001) and c-kit (P < 0.01) in response to PM exposure. Conclusions This study confirms that PM induces pigmentary changes to ex vivo human skin by increasing epidermal melanin. Increased expression of c-kit in response to PM exposure suggests that increased pigmentation occurs owing to the upregulation of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor signalling pathway. Further investigation of the mechanistic drivers of increased pigmentation is warranted.