ABSTRACT The article sets off from a manifest tension that affects sites of Armenian heritage in contemporary Eastern Turkey. This tension emerges from a generalized program of genocide denial on the one hand and strategies of heritagization and commercialization on the other. Ethnographically, the article zooms in on three Armenian religious sites that are partially listed as cultural heritage, but have never been the object of conservation measures. All three have recently become folded into fantasies of “faith tourism”, visions of commercialization with a view to profit from Armenian pilgrims and tourists. The article examines the historical and political texture that gives shape to and conditions local moral universes around the question of inhabiting this necropolitical landscape. Broadly speaking, it finds that local residents have no qualms about commercializing these Armenian material remains. This means, in turn, that we cannot assume that the question of a moral embedding of sites of traumatic pasts necessarily acquires urgency. The central question guiding the article is thus not what moral challenges and responses appear when sites of traumatic heritage become targeted for commodified consumption, but what constellations of heritage and capital underlie a moral disposition that takes the form of a generalized indifference. Research into the history and present life of these three non- or not-yet-heritagized sites reveals, I argue, complex arrangements of land, capital, and heritage.
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