UVA Protection Factor Research Articles

Photochemically Inert Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen by Metal-Phenolic Network Coatings of Titanium Oxide Nanoparticles.

Titanium dioxide (TiO2) nanoparticles are extensively used as a sunscreen filter due to their long-active ultraviolet (UV)-blocking performance. However, their practical use is being challenged by high photochemical activities and limited absorption spectrum. Current solutions include the coating of TiO2 with synthetic polymers and formulating a sunscreen product with additional organic UV filters. Unfortunately, these approaches are no longer considered effective because of recent environmental and public health issues. Herein, TiO2-metal-phenolic network hybrid nanoparticles (TiO2-MPN NPs) are developed as the sole active ingredient for sunscreen products through photochemical suppression and absorption spectrum widening. The MPNs are generated by the complexation of tannic acid with multivalent metal ions, forming a robust coating shell. The TiO2-MPN hybridization extends the absorption region to the high-energy-visible (HEV) light range via a new ligand-to-metal charge transfer photoexcitation pathway, boosting both the sun protection factor and ultraviolet-A protection factor about 4-fold. The TiO2-MPN NPs suppressed the photoinduced reactive oxygen species by 99.9% for 6 h under simulated solar irradiation. Accordingly, they substantially alleviated UV- and HEV-induced cytotoxicity of fibroblasts. This work outlines a new tactic for the eco-friendly and biocompatible design of sunscreen agents by selectively inhibiting the photocatalytic activities of semiconductor nanoparticles while broadening their optical spectrum.

Investigation on the Validity of in vitro Sun Protection Factor and Ultraviolet-A Protection Factor Evaluation Method for Sunscreen Samples.

Factors affecting the in vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and Ultraviolet-A Protection Factor (UVA-PF) of sunscreens were analyzed for verifying the validity and reliability of the ISO24443 evaluation method. UV absorbance measurements by different spectrophotometers did not lead to the large difference in in vitro SPF/UVA-PF, although the UV absorbance determined by each spectrophotometer exhibited relatively large difference when it was larger than 2. On the other hand, relatively large difference was found in in vitro SPF/UVA-PF by utilizing European Cosmetic and Perfumery Association (Colipa) 1994 or UV-solar simulated radiation (UV-SSR) for the spectral irradiance. Appropriateness of employing the coefficient of adjustment for the determination of in vitro UVA-PF was also found to be reexamined.

Use of sisal industrial waste (Agave sisalana Perrine) in sustainable and multifunctional cosmetic products.

Sisal is a common stiff fibre produced around the world, corresponding to approximately 70% of the commercial production of all fibres of this type. The fibres are extracted from the leaves of Agave sisalana, from which approximately 4% of their weight is obtained, with the remaining 96% considered to be residues from the process of the sisal industry. The objective of this work was to obtain a polyphenol-enriched extract from the A. sisalana residue by ultrasonically assisted extraction, characterize it chemically, evaluate invitro antioxidant activity, and develop safe and stable photoprotective formulations for future application in cosmetic preparations. Ultrasonic extraction of solid plant material was performed using 50% ethanol/water (v/v). The extract was chemically characterized by high-performance liquid chromatography equipment associated with classical molecular networking and evaluated for invitro antioxidant activity by different methodologies. Ten formulations were prepared, varying the component concentrations and the shear time. The 1.0% sisal extract was incorporated into the most stable formulations, and preliminary and accelerated stability were evaluated. The emulsions were investigated for safety by assessment of primary accumulated dermal irritability and sensitization and a dermatological clinical study of phototoxicity and photosensitization. The photoprotective formulations containing or not containing the extract that were stable after 90 days had their invivo sun protection factor (SPF), UVA protection factor, critical wavelength, and protection against visible and blue light determined. Ultrasound extraction using 50% ethanol/water (EH 50) as an extractor vehicle showed the best yield. The extract exhibited a concentration of phenolic compounds (77.93 mg of equivalent to the standard gallic acid/g) and showed invitro antioxidant activity. Emulsions without and with 1.0% sisal extract remained stable and safe. The addition of the extract to the photoprotective formulation statistically increased the SPF when compared to the formulation without the extract and offered protection against UVA radiation, critical wavelengths, and absorption of visible and blue light. Based on the findings, the solid residue of A. sisalana may be indicated as a component of photoprotective and antioxidant cosmetic formulations.

Surface encapsulating UV filters based on self-assembly of an amphiphilic random copolymer by miniemulsion polymerization

A nanoparticles encapsulating UV filters were prepared by miniemulsion polymerization, in which methyl methacrylate (MMA) as the monomer, and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate (EGDMA) as the cross-linker. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and X-ray photoelectron spectrometry (XPS) confirmed that the amphiphilic random copolymers poly (styrene-co-methacrylic acid) P(St-co-MAA) not only acted as the stabilizer but also self-assembled on the surface of the P(MMA-EGDMA) polymers. During the miniemulsion polymerization, most UV filters were encapsulated in the P(St-co-MAA) self-assembly aggregates on the surface of nanoparticles, giving the nanoparticles a raspberry-like structure. As the mass ratio of P(St-co-MAA) to MMA and EGDMA at 1.0, the encapsulation efficiency of UV filters was 69.85%, whereas 70.7% of UV filters were located in the P(St-co-MAA) self-assembly layer. The leakage of UV filters from the raspberry-like nanoparticles was negligible after continuous stirring in isopropyl myristate (IPM) for 24 h. The sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA Protection Factor (UVAPF) value of sunscreen formulation incorporated with the raspberry-like nanoparticles could reach 58.8 and 6.82, respectively. It enhanced UV protection more efficiently than the nanoparticles with a smooth surface.

Holistic Photoprotection, Broad Spectrum (UVA-UVB), and Biological Effective Protection Factors (BEPFs) from Baccharis antioquensis Hydrolysates Polyphenols

Overexposure to solar radiation has become an increasingly worrying problem due to the damage to the skin caused by ultraviolet radiation (UVR). In previous studies, the potential of an extract enriched with glycosylated flavonoids from the endemic Colombian high-mountain plant Baccharis antioquensis as a photoprotector and antioxidant was demonstrated. Therefore, in this work we sought to develop a dermocosmetic formulation with broad-spectrum photoprotection from the hydrolysates and purified polyphenols obtained from this species. Hence, the extraction of its polyphenols with different solvents was evaluated, followed by hydrolysis and purification, in addition to the characterization of its main compounds by HPLC-DAD and HPLC-MS, and evaluation of its photoprotective capacity through the measurement of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), UVA Protection Factor (UVAPF), other Biological Effective Protection Factors (BEPFs), and its safety through the cytotoxicity. In the dry methanolic extract (DME) and purified methanolic extract (PME), flavonoids such as quercetin and kaempferol were found, which demonstrated antiradical capacity, as well as UVA-UVB photoprotection and prevention of harmful biological effects, such as elastosis, photoaging, immunosuppression, DNA damage, among others, which demonstrates the potential of the ingredients in this type of extract to be applied in photoprotection dermocosmetics.

Screening for New Cosmeceuticals from Brown Algae Fucus vesiculosus with Antioxidant and Photo-Protecting Properties.

Phlorotannins play a role in biological functions to protect the cells against UV and oxidative damage in brown algae. We hypothesized that these compounds can function as photo-protectors and antioxidants in skin care formulations. Two types of extracts (water (FV-WE) and 67% v/v ethanol (FV-EE)) from Fucus vesiculosus were obtained with a phlorotannin content between 7-14% in dry extract. Exposure to sun light during growth was included as a factor on the phlorotannin content but did not influence the phlorotannin content. However, green colored F. vesiculosus had lower total phenolic content (TPC) (FV-WE = 6.9 g GAE 100 g-1 dw, FV-EE = 7.8 g GAE 100 g-1 dw) compared to those with a yellow/brownish color (FV-WE = 10.4-13.7 g GAE 100 g-1 dw, FV-EE = 11.2-14.0 g GAE 100 g-1 dw). UVA and UVB photo protective capabilities of the extracts through different biological effective protection factors (BEPFs) were evaluated using in vitro methods; the Mansur method for sun protection factor (SPF) and calculation of effective solar absorption radiation (%ESAR) to determine SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) of the extract and in seaweed enriched lotion. The SPF was negligible, when evaluating FV-WE in lotion (10 and 20% w/w). Moreover, %ESAR of the FV-WE showed SPF and some UVA-PF, but not enough to give sufficient SPF in lotions (10% w/w). It was concluded that the concentration of UV protecting compounds in the extracts was too low to and that further fractionation and purification of phlorotannins is needed to increase the SPF.

Evaluation of a Sunscreen Product Compared with Reference Standards P3, P5 and P8 in Outdoor Conditions: a Randomized, Double-Blinded, Intra-individual Study in Healthy Subjects

IntroductionThe shortcomings of standardized sunscreen testing have been discussed in recent years, noting differences between how sunscreens perform in indoor clinical (in vivo) laboratory testing compared with real-life conditions. We previously developed an outdoor clinical method for ranking sunscreens by performance level. We used this method to test the performance of a new broad-spectrum sunscreen against International Organization for Standardization (ISO) reference products P3, P5 and P8.MethodsSixty-five healthy volunteers with individual typology angle (ITA) ≥ 28° (light to intermediate skin colour) participated in an outdoor study in Mauritius. Test areas were marked on their backs, which were treated with the different products: one commercially available broad-spectrum sun protection factor (SPF) 50 sunscreen [investigational product (IP)] and the three reference products P3 (SPF 15), P5 (SPF 30) and P8 (SPF 50+) from ISO norm 24444:2019 for SPF testing. The test areas were exposed for 2–3 h, depending on the baseline skin colour. They were also compared with an unprotected positive control area and a non-exposed negative control area. Clinical and colorimetry assessment of erythema and pigmentation were performed at 24 h and 8 days, respectively.ResultsOverall, according to this outdoor clinical testing method, the sunscreens’ efficacy was ranked in an appropriate order given their established SPF levels, with higher SPFs giving greater protection against erythema and pigmentation. Between the different levels of SPF, the differences were statistically significant, for both clinical and colorimetry assessments. The new broad-spectrum SPF 50 IP performed similarly to the SPF 50+ (P8) reference product. Even the highest SPF products, SPF 50 and SPF 50+, had some instances of photoprotection failure.ConclusionThese findings confirm the feasibility of this outdoor clinical testing method in ranking sunscreens and provide further evidence, in addition to standardized SPF and UVA protection factor (UVAPF) testing, on how this new broad-spectrum SPF 50 sunscreen performs in extreme outdoor solar exposure: in line with reference product P8 (SPF 50+).Trial Registration No.ISRCTN95394014.Supplementary InformationThe online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s13555-022-00815-w.

An in vitro study of fixed and essential oils claimed to have photoprotective properties

Today, the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin are well known, so we know we should use protection whenever we are exposed to the sun. Sun protection products, therefore, form part of an overall strategy against photo-induced cancers. However, over several years, controversies have led to consumer mistrust of certain sun protection products containing organic filters, said to be allergens, endocrine disrupters or even responsible for coral bleaching. Taking advantage of the dismay this has caused in some consumers, internet sites have promoted plant oils and essential oils as natural solar filters to replace pharmaceutical sun creams. Using an in vitro method, we studied 15 fixed oils, one oily macerate, one butter, eight essential oils, and an essential wax, chosen among the substances most commonly mentioned on the internet. For each substance, we determined the sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (PF-UVA), the universal references for protection level in the ultraviolet range. We demonstrated that these fixed oils and essential oils, for which we found SPF and PF-UVA values of only around 1, are totally devoid of any photoprotective properties. So as to avoid potential users suffering serious consequences, therefore, they should not be considered as sunscreens.

The effect of on-site application density on the UV protection efficacy of sunscreens.

Sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (UVAPF) are performance indicators consumers recognize for UV protective cosmetics such as sunscreens. However, on-site application density affects actual UV protection, despite these indicators. To understand actual UV protection better, a more reliable manner is needed to verify application density for further discussion of photoprotection efficacy regarding public health. To estimate the UV protective efficacy of sunscreen in actual use based on the application density of UV protective cosmetics and the analysis of UV protective effect modulated by application density. The subjects applied the SPF-labeled sunscreens as usual. We measured the application amount and area including any amount on their hands to calculate the average application density on the face. Also, sunscreens were applied at densities of 0.5, 1.0, and 2.0mg/cm2 . The SPF values were measured at each application site to evaluate the effect of application density on photoprotection efficacy. We established a method of measuring application density utilizing three-dimensional photograph analysis. The median application density of the sunscreen applied in actual use was 1.33mg/cm2 . The measured SPF values decreased in association with the decreased application density of sunscreens. Based on the estimate assuming the first-order correlation, the SPF value required to get the protective effect equivalent to a sunscreen with SPF 15, 30, or 50 at 2mg/cm2 was calculated to be 23.8, 47.5, and 79.2, respectively, with the application density of 1.33mg/cm2 . We demonstrated a reasonable procedure for estimating the photoprotection efficacy of sunscreens on the face. A suggestion was made to consider the application density for further discussion of photoprotection among consumers, especially for the long term with respect to public health.

Novel UV filters from Pentacalia pulchella extracts with photoprotective properties and antioxidant activity.

Most of the plant species found in the high mountain ecosystems of the tropics is unique and exceptional, because they have developed complex adaptations to survive in extreme environmental conditions, such as high levels of UVR and low temperatures of these ecological environments. In an exploratory study carried out on some plants of this ecosystem, we found that one of the most promising species was the Pentacalia pulchella (Kunth) Cuatrec. (Asteraceae) an endemic plant of Colombia, which grows between 2500 and 3500m.a.s.l. Therefore, the objective of this work was to evaluate the photoprotective, antioxidant, and chemical composition of extracts from the leaves of P. pulchella. Extracts showed good absorption coefficients in UVA-UVB, high content of total phenols, with antioxidant activity comparable to that obtained with butylhydroxytoluene (BHT). Finally, the formulation labeled "7" with 10% extract presented adequate sensory characteristics for topical use, good in vitro photoprotection values in the UVA-UVB range (SPF (Sun Protection Factor): 7.3 ± 0.9, UVAPF (Ultraviolet A Protection Factor): 5.3 ± 0.6, λc 376), and antioxidant activity. Results obtained allow us to suggest that the extract of P. pulchella has a high potential as a source of new natural solar filters.

Laboratory testing of sunscreens on the US market finds lower in vitro SPF values than on labels and even less UVA protection.

BackgroundNew research has attributed increased significance to the causal link between ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation and immunosuppression and carcinogenesis. In the United States, sunscreens are labeled with only their sun protection factor (SPF) and an imprecise term “broad‐spectrum protection.” Sunscreen marketing and efficacy evaluations continue to be based primarily on skin redness (sunburn) or erythema. We sought to evaluate the ultraviolet (UV) protection offered by common sunscreen products on the US market using laboratory‐measured UV‐absorption testing and comparing with computer‐modeled protection and the labeled SPF values. This approach enables an investigation of the relationship between the labeled SPF and measured UVA protection, a factor that is ignored in current regulations.MethodsFifty‐one sunscreen products for sale in the United States with SPF values from 15 to 110 and labeled as providing broad‐spectrum protection were tested using a commercial laboratory. All products were evaluated using the ISO 24443:2012 method for sunscreen effectiveness. The final absorbance spectra were used for analysis of in vitro UV protection.ResultsIn vitro SPF values from laboratory‐measured UV absorption and computer modeling were on average just 59 and 42 percent of the labeled SPF. The majority of products provided significantly lower UVA protection with the average unweighted UVA protection factor just 24 percent of the labeled SPF.ConclusionRegulations and marketplace forces promote sunscreens that reduce sunburn instead of products that provide better, more broad‐spectrum UV protection. The production and use of products with broad spectrum UV protection should be incentivized, removing the emphasis on sunburn protection and ending testing on people.

Multi-laboratory study of hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy to assess sunscreen SPF and UVA-PFs.

Proof-of-principle studies have established the use of Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (HDRS) methods to assess both Ultraviolet-A Protection Factor (UVA-PF) and Sun Protection Factor (SPF) indices in individual laboratories. Multiple laboratories evaluated 23 emulsions and two spray sunscreen products to evaluate repeatability and accuracy of assessment of SPF and UVA-PF values, using HDRS test systems from various manufacturers using different designs. All of the laboratories reported similar SPF and UVA-PF values within a narrow range of values to establish the reliability of the HDRS methodology across laboratories, independent of equipment manufacturer or operator. HDRS test methodology provides a reliable objective instrumental estimation of sunscreen SPF and UVA-PF. These data were provided to ISO-TC217 WG7 to substantiate the ongoing development of an ISO Standard HDRS Method.

Selected Extracts from High Mountain Plants as Potential Sunscreens with Antioxidant Capacity

The photoprotective and antioxidant activities of extracts of six species of plants collected in a high mountain ecosystem at 3150 m.a.s.l. were evaluated. In vitro photoprotection according to UVA-UVB absorption spectrum, Sun Protection Factor (SPF), UVA Protection Factor (UVAPF), (critical wavelength) λc and UVA/UVB Ratio were assessed. Also, the antioxidant activity was determined using the DPPH radical assay and the inhibition of lipid peroxidation in methyl linoleate (MeLo). Total anthocyanins content (TAC) and total polyphenolic content (TPC) were evaluated. Among the extracts evaluated, the extract of B. antioquensis, an endemic plant of Colombia, showed a significant photoprotection against UVA-UVB range, with SPF values of 15 ± 2 and UVAPF of 7 ± 1, λc : 378, UVA/UVB Ratio: 0.78. Furthermore, this extract presented an excellent antioxidant activity, with EC50 of 0.17 ± 0.04 g of dry extract/mmol DPPH, a value of TPC of 464 ± 9 mg gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g dry extract and significant inhibition of MeLo peroxidation. The results suggest that the extract of B. antioquensis has the best quality to be a source of new UV filters, with a broad spectrum of protection and antioxidant properties.

Preparation, Characterization and Evaluation of Organogel-Based Lipstick Formulations: Application in Cosmetics.

1,3:2,4-Dibenzylidene-D-sorbitol (DBS) and 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA) are well-known as low-molecular-weight organogelators (LMOGs) capable of gelling an organic liquid phase. Considering their unique chemical and physical properties, we assessed their potential effects in new lipstick formulations by discrimination testing; in vitro measurements of the sun protection factor (SPF); and thermal, mechanical and texture analyzes. DBS and 12-HSA were used to formulate four types of lipsticks: L1 (1% DBS), L2 (10% 12-HSA), L3 (1.5% DBS) and L4 (control, no LMOGs). The lipsticks were tested for sensory perception with an untrained panel of 16 consumers. LMOG formulations exhibited higher UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) and in vitro SPF, particularly in the 12-HSA-based lipstick. Regarding thermal properties, the 12-HSA-based lipstick and those without LMOGs were more heat-amenable compared to thermoresistant DBS-based lipsticks. The results also showed the viscoelastic and thermally reversible properties of LMOGs and their effect of increasing pay-off values. In general, the texture analysis indicated that 12-HSA-based lipstick was significantly harder to bend compared to control, while the other formulations became softer and easier to bend throughout the stability study. This work suggests the potential use of LMOGs as a structuring agent for lipsticks, paving the way towards more photoprotective and sustainable alternatives.

Real Facts about Safety and Efficacy of Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide in Solar Products

Background: Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide were often criticized over the last decade because of their supposed noxious effects on human health. Moreover, these compounds which are frequently introduced in sunscreen products as UV filter, are sometimes associated with poor UVA protection factors. So, in order to clarify the real efficacy and safety status of these products, we provide here some bibliographic and experimental data regarding 1) their “real” protective effect against UVA rays and 2) their real harmful effects on human skin notably by studying their capability to penetrate through the human cutaneous tissue. Materials and Methods: We studied here 4 sunscreen products containing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide for 3 of them. First, because the UVA-PF values obtained for these compounds by using the “classical” in vitro ISO 24443 procedure seem to be significantly different from to those obtained by using the in vivo method ISO 24442, we chose to develop a new in vitro methodology in order to more precisely define the UVA-PF of titanium and zinc oxides. This new methodology was then used to lead UVA-PF studies with the 4 selected solar products. We also provide here an evaluation of the toxicological effects of titanium and zinc oxides on human skin based on the SCCS reports and analysis of recent and relevant bibliographic studies. Moreover, as the harmful effects of this type of products are closely linked to their ability to penetrate cutaneous tissue, we tested 7 sunscreen products to precise the skin penetration profiles of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide by using human skin explants mounted on Franz cells. Results: We here demonstrated that our new in vitro methodology gave some UVA-PF values very close to those obtained with in vivo methods and we took advantage of it to define more realistic UVA-PF for titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Additionally, we here evaluated the human skin permeation and resorption capacities of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide incorporated in the 7 tested products. As it was defined by World Health Organization (WHO) in 2005, permeation consists in the ability for a compound to penetrate into different layers of a tissue, and the resorption consists in the absorption of this compound into the vascular system. In our experimental conditions, we showed 1) that zinc oxide and titanium dioxide permeations did not exceed 8.5 and 5.5 μg/cm2 of skin respectively (i.e. 0.89% and 0.26% of the applied product, respectively), and 2) that their resorptions were not significantly different from zero. As a consequence, we can assume that the supposed harmful effects of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide on cutaneous tissue could not be observed following the use of the tested solar products. Conclusion: Regarding their efficacy, we here provide, by using a new in vitro methodology for UVA-PF measurements (which is also very efficient to determine SPF), new evidence showing that titanium dioxide and zinc oxide could constitute “good” UV filters. In addition, our work with Franz cells reinforces the fact these compounds can be safely used for human skin solar protection.

Booster Effect of a Natural Extract of Polypodium leucotomos (Fernblock®) That Improves the UV Barrier Function and Immune Protection Capability of Sunscreen Formulations.

Background: Novel approaches to photoprotection must go beyond classical MED measurements, as discoveries on the effect of UV radiation on skin paints a more complex and multi-pronged scenario with multitude of skin cell types involved. Of these, photoimmunoprotection emerges as a crucial factor that protects against skin cancer and photoaging. A novel immune parameter is enabled by the precise knowledge of the wavelength and dose of solar radiation that induces photoimmunosupression. Natural substances, that can play different roles in photoprotection as antioxidant, immune regulation, and DNA protection as well as its possible ability as sunscreen are the new goals in cosmetic industry.Objective: To analyze the effect of a specific natural extract from Polypodium leucotomos (PLE, Fernblock®), as part of topical sunscreen formulations to protect from photoimmunosuppression, as well as other deleterious biological effects of UV radiation.Methods: The possible sunscreen effect of PLE was analyzed by including 1% (w/w) PLE in four different galenic formulations containing different combinations of UVB and UVA organic and mineral filters. In vitro sun protection factor (SPF), UVA protection factor (UVA-PF), contact hypersensitivity factor (CHS), and human immunoprotection factor (HIF) were estimated following the same protocol as ISO 24443:2012 for in vitro UVA-PF determination.Results: PLE-containing formulations significantly reduced UV radiation reaching to skin. Combination of UVB and UVA filters with PLE increased SPF and UVAPF significantly. PLE also increased UV immune protection, by elevating the contact hypersensitivity factor and the human immunoprotective factor of the sunscreen formulations.Conclusion: This study confirms the double role of PLE in photoprotection. Together to the biological activity shown in previous works, the UV absorption properties of PLE confers a booster effect when it is supplemented in topical sunscreens increasing the protection not only at level of erythema and permanent pigment darkening but also against two photoimmunoprotection factors.

Sunscreens and their usefulness: have we made any progress in the last two decades?

Sunscreens have now been around for decades to mitigate the Sun's damaging ultraviolet (UV) radiation which, although essential for the existence of life, is a recognized prime carcinogen. Accordingly, have suncreams achieved their intended purposes towards protection against sunburns, skin photo-ageing and the like? Most importantly, however, have they provided the expected protection against skin cancers that current sunscreen products claim to do? In the last two decades, there have been tens, if not hundreds of studies on sunscreens with respect to skin protection against UVB (280‒320nm)-traditionally sunscreens with rather low sun protection factors (SPF) were intended to protect against this type of radiation-and UVA (320‒400nm) radiation; a distinction between SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) is made. Many of the studies of the last two decades have focused on protection against the more skin-penetrating UVA radiation. This non-exhaustive article reviews some of the important facets of what is currently known about sunscreens with regard (i) to the physical UV filters titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO) and the mostly photo-unstable chemical UVB/UVA filters (e.g., octinoxate (OMC) and avobenzone (AVO), among others), (ii) to novel chemical sunscreen agents, (iii) to means that minimize the breakdown of chemical filters and improve their stability when exposed to UV sunlight, (iv) to SPF factors, and (v) to a short discussion on non-melanoma skin cancers and melanoma. Importantly, throughout the article we allude to the safety aspects of sunscreens and at the end ask the question: do active ingredients in sunscreen products pose a risk to human health, and what else can be done to enhance protection? Significant loss of skin protection from two well-known commercial suncreams when exposed to simulated UV sunlight. Cream I: titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, avobenzone, and octinoxate; Cream II: octyl salicylate, oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate.

EcoSun Pass: A tool to evaluate the ecofriendliness of UV filters used in sunscreen products

ObjectiveSunscreens play a major role in the EU sun protection strategy in order to prevent humans from UV light‐induced skin damage. In recent years, the demand for high‐quality sunscreen products including aspects of broad range and photostability of the UV protection, showing good spreadability onto human skin and excellent sensorial properties during and after application has increased. Environmental aspects are considered. Sunscreens are complex compositions, with UV filters being the key element in the formulations reaching up to about 30% in content in the final product. Some of these ingredients, however, may be regarded as hazardous for the aquatic environment. Nevertheless, the aquatic ecosystem represents only a single environmental compartment, which may be impacted by UV filters. Therefore, the EcoSun Pass (ESP) tool was developed in order to assess the overall environmental impact of UV filters in combination with its efficacy (Sun Protection Factor, SPF and UVA Protection Factor, UVA‐PF).MethodsFor that purpose, at first 24 of the EU‐approved UV filters for sunscreen applications were evaluated for their environmental hazard profiles. Nine example UV filter compositions representing both SPF 30 and 50 were evaluated for ecofriendliness using the ESP tool.ResultsThe results revealed that two out of four SPF 30 compositions are considered as ecofriendly. Likewise, from the SPF 50 two out of five did meet the criteria for ecofriendliness. Furthermore, the results showed that most ecofriendly example formulations have also the lowest overall UV filter content in the product, based on the use of highly innovative and least hazardous UV filters.ConclusionThese results demonstrate that the tool is applicable to various formulations being present on the market and thus allows for a selection of most ecofriendly and efficient UV filters to be used in sunscreens.

3,4-dimethoxychalcone novel ultraviolet-A-protection factor in conventional sunscreen cream.

UltravioletA (UVA) rays with an intensity of 95% can induce skin cancer due to the activation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The 3,4-dimethoxychalcone (3,4-DMC) chalcone derivative has a wide wavelength, antioxidant activity, presumed has activity as sunscreen (UVA rays). Topical delivery of water-insoluble 3,4-DMC with log P 3.84 required capable, cream formulation was chosen because it was suitable for application this chemical sunscreen. This study aims to obtain the optimal formulation of 3,4-DMC in a sunscreen cream dosage form as a UVA-protection factor (UVA-PF). This study involves experimental design. The cream 3,4-DMC was evaluated physically for 4 weeks by measuring pH, viscosity, spreadability, adhesion, centrifugation, freeze–thaw, photostability, UVA-PF used TranporeTM tape, and skin irritation test on animals. The result obtained was evaluated statistically using ANOVA (SPSS version 24). The ratio UVA/UVB value of 3,4 DMC sunscreen cream having 5 stars (*****) for all concentrations, shows the product in this study can be used as an anti-UVA agent in sunscreen cream cosmetic products. The stability of the cream has pH 4.0–4.2; spreadability 5–6 cm; viscosity 4.470–5.763; and adhesion <1 s. Freeze-thaw and centrifugation were known did not affect the stability due to the absence of separation. There was no wavelength shift in the photostability test and no skin irritation due to in vivo examination using New Zealand rabbits. The 3,4-DMC as a new agent in conventional sunscreen cream dosage form has good properties as a protection against UVA rays.

Determining the photostability of avobenzone in sunscreen formulation models using ultrafast spectroscopy.

Avobenzone is an ultraviolet (UV) filter that is often included in sunscreen formulations despite its lack of photostability. Its inclusion is necessary due to few existing alternatives for photoprotection in the UVA region (320-400 nm). To better understand and predict the photostability of avobenzone, ultrafast transient electronic absorption spectroscopy (TEAS) has been used to study the effects of solvent (including emollients), concentration and skin surface temperature on its excited-state relaxation mechanism, following photoexcitation with UVA radiation (∼350 nm). Subtle differences between the excited-state lifetimes were found between the systems, but the TEAS spectral features were qualitatively the same for all solution and temperature combinations. Alongside TEAS measurements, UV filter/emollient blends containing avobenzone were irradiated using simulated solar light and their degradation tracked using steady-state UV-visible spectroscopy. Sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) assessments were also carried out on representative oil phases (higher concentration blends), which could be used to formulate oil-in-water sunscreens. It was found that there was an apparent concentration dependence on the long-term photoprotective efficacy of these mixtures, which could be linked to the ultrafast photodynamics by the presence of a ground-state bleach offset. This combination of techniques shows potential for correlating long-term behaviours (minutes to hours) of avobenzone with its ultrafast photophysics (femtoseconds to nanoseconds), bridging the gap between fundamental photophysics/photochemistry and commercial sunscreen design.