Abstract
1,3:2,4-Dibenzylidene-D-sorbitol (DBS) and 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA) are well-known as low-molecular-weight organogelators (LMOGs) capable of gelling an organic liquid phase. Considering their unique chemical and physical properties, we assessed their potential effects in new lipstick formulations by discrimination testing; in vitro measurements of the sun protection factor (SPF); and thermal, mechanical and texture analyzes. DBS and 12-HSA were used to formulate four types of lipsticks: L1 (1% DBS), L2 (10% 12-HSA), L3 (1.5% DBS) and L4 (control, no LMOGs). The lipsticks were tested for sensory perception with an untrained panel of 16 consumers. LMOG formulations exhibited higher UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) and in vitro SPF, particularly in the 12-HSA-based lipstick. Regarding thermal properties, the 12-HSA-based lipstick and those without LMOGs were more heat-amenable compared to thermoresistant DBS-based lipsticks. The results also showed the viscoelastic and thermally reversible properties of LMOGs and their effect of increasing pay-off values. In general, the texture analysis indicated that 12-HSA-based lipstick was significantly harder to bend compared to control, while the other formulations became softer and easier to bend throughout the stability study. This work suggests the potential use of LMOGs as a structuring agent for lipsticks, paving the way towards more photoprotective and sustainable alternatives.
Highlights
Over the past few years, lipsticks have gained significant popularity as one of the most attractive small luxury items, and sometimes even used as an economic indicator, following “the lipstick effect” observed in economic recessions [1]
Given its high melting point of 76 ◦ C, viscoelastic properties offering better spreadability and its ability to stabilize active molecules such as UVB blockers in sunscreen [13], 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA) has been used in cosmetic applications but is as-yet relatively unexplored for lipsticks. 1,3:2,4-1,3:2,4-DibenzylideneD-sorbitol (DBS) is a well-known organogelator that has been in use for over 100 years, which is employed in personal care products owing to its high melting point of 225 ◦ C
The main objective of this study was to evaluate the effect of low molecular organogelators (LMOGs), as a substitute alternative to replace part of waxes, on the thermal, rheological, sensory and performance properties of the lipstick formulations
Summary
Over the past few years, lipsticks have gained significant popularity as one of the most attractive small luxury items, and sometimes even used as an economic indicator, following “the lipstick effect” observed in economic recessions [1]. Acceptable lipstick formulations should meet the following criteria: (1) thermal stability with a melting point generally within 55–75 ◦ C and humidity variation to extreme maxima [6]; (2) dermatologically safe; (3) pleasant smell and taste; (4) softening at lip temperature (32 ◦ C); (5) sufficient mechanical and physical properties with strength to maintain its structural integrity [7]; and (6) improved appearance without any defaults (air bubbles, cracks, sweating occurring during preparation steps). DBS esters have been developed for lipsticks; compared to waxes and pasty compounds, they exhibited less transparency, glossy effects, stability and strength, among others, than DBS derivatives [15] These LMOGs system permit: (1) thermoreversibility and thermostability, offering many advantages in drug delivery and long-term shelf-life systems [16]; (2) particular mechanical strength and flexibility due to their viscoelastic properties [12]; and (3) low-cost and simple preparation allowing large-scale production [16]. The in vitro protection factor (SPF) as well as the rheological and thermal behavior of the different lipstick formulations were investigated
Sign-in/Register to view highlights & summary Talk to us
Join us for a 30 min session where you can share your feedback and ask us any queries you have
Schedule a callDisclaimer: All third-party content on this website/platform is and will remain the property of their respective owners and is provided on "as is" basis without any warranties, express or implied. Use of third-party content does not indicate any affiliation, sponsorship with or endorsement by them. Any references to third-party content is to identify the corresponding services and shall be considered fair use under The CopyrightLaw.
