Typical Wave Research Articles

Effect of excitability on partially pinned scroll waves in excitable chemical media.

We present an investigation of excitability effects on the dynamics of scroll waves partially pinned to inert cylindrical obstacles in three-dimensional Belousov-Zhabotinsky excitable media. We also report on corresponding numerical simulations with the Oregonator model. The excitability varies according to the concentration of sulfuric acid [H_{2}SO_{4}] in the Belousov-Zhabotinsky (BZ) reaction and the parameter ɛ^{-1} in the Oregonator model. Initially, the freely rotating scroll segment rotates faster than the pinned one. The difference in the frequency of the two parts results in a transition from a straight pinned scroll wave to a twisted one, which helically wraps around the entire obstacle. The wave frequency in the whole volume is equal to that of the freely rotating scroll wave. When the excitability is increased, the time for the transition to the twisted wave structure decreases while the average speed s of the development increases. After the transition, the twisted wave remains stable. In media with higher excitability, the helical pitch is shorter but the twist rate ω is higher. Analysis presented in this study together with our previous findings of the effect of the cylindrical obstacle diameter on the wave dynamics results in common features: The average speed s and the twist rate ω of both studies fit well to functions of the difference in the initial frequency Δf of the freely rotating and untwisted pinned waves. We also demonstrate the robustness of the partially pinned scroll waves against perturbations from spontaneous waves emerging during the wave generation in the BZ medium with high [H_{2}SO_{4}]. Even though the scroll wave is partly disturbed at the beginning of the experiment, the spontaneous waves are gradually suppressed and the typical wave structure is finally developed.

Predicting the occurrence of rogue waves in short-crested mixed seas

ABSTRACT In this paper we have for the first time proposed a novel transformed Gaussian process method for the estimation of rogue wave occurrence in a short crested mixed sea. The saddle point approximation of a specific joint density is utilised to further improve the computational efficiency of the proposed method. The proposed method has been applied to forecast the rogue wave occurrence in four short-crested mixed sea states, two with directional wave spectra based on measured surface elevation data at the coast of Yura, and another two with typical directional bimodal wave spectra. It is shown in these four cases that the proposed method can offer more accurate forecasting results than those obtained from the linear simulation method, from the transformation based on Hermite polynomials and from using the Rayleigh distribution model. It is also demonstrated that the proposed method is more efficient than the nonlinear simulation method.

Period and length of high surface gravity waves measured in the coastal waters of eastern Arabian Sea and its variations in 10 years

Information on the period and length of waves is required for the planning and design of marine facilities and wave energy converters. In this article, the period and length of the waves measured during the peak monsoon (June–July) in the coastal waters of the eastern Arabian Sea for 10 years are examined. The most typical wave periods (T) are within 3.9 s and 5.5 s and about 25 % are above 9 s. The peak wave period (Tp) indicates that during the peak monsoon months, long-period waves dominate the eastern Arabian Sea. Significant wave period and integral wave period show a good linear relationship with energy wave period with a slope value close to 1. There are inter-annual variations of up to 15 % in the 90-percentile value of the Tp. From 2010 to 2019, the average wavelength during peak monsoon varied from 61.3 m to 67.6 m and the maximum wavelength from 216.6 m to 248.8 m. Interannual variations in the 90-percentile values for wavelength corresponding to maximum wave height is only 7 %.

Existence of multi‐dimensional contact discontinuities for the ideal compressible magnetohydrodynamics

AbstractWe establish the local existence and uniqueness of multi‐dimensional contact discontinuities for the ideal compressible magnetohydrodynamics (MHD) in Sobolev spaces, which are most typical interfacial waves for astrophysical plasmas and prototypical fundamental waves for hyperbolic systems of conservation laws. Such waves are characteristic discontinuities for which there is no flow across the discontinuity surface while the magnetic field crosses transversely, which lead to a two‐phase free boundary problem where the pressure, velocity and magnetic field are continuous across the interface whereas the entropy and density may have jumps. To overcome the difficulties of possible nonlinear Rayleigh–Taylor instability and loss of derivatives, here we use crucially the Lagrangian formulation and Cauchy's celebrated integral (1815) for the magnetic field. These motivate us to define two special good unknowns; one enables us to capture the boundary regularizing effect of the transversal magnetic field on the flow map, and the other one allows us to get around the troublesome boundary integrals due to the transversality of the magnetic field. In particular, our result removes the additional assumption of the Rayleigh–Taylor sign condition required by Morando, Trakhinin and Trebeschi (J. Differ. Equ. 258 (2015), no. 7, 2531–2571; Arch. Ration. Mech. Anal. 228 (2018), no. 2, 697–742) and holds for both 2D and 3D and hence gives a complete answer to the two open questions raised therein. Moreover, there is no loss of derivatives in our well‐posedness theory. The solution is constructed as the inviscid limit of solutions to some suitably‐chosen nonlinear approximate problems for the two‐phase compressible viscous non‐resistive MHD.

Wave Spectral Analysis for designing Wave Energy Converters

When designing a Wave Energy Converter (WEC) it is inappropriate to consider overall bulk parameters, like for instance, the typical scatter diagrams Hs-Tp. The reason is that in most of the world wave conditions are complex and involve several long-term wave systems, each with different characteristics (Fig. 1a). This is true even for apparently simple basins like the Mediterranean or the North Sea, in the open ocean this is certainly the case with swells arriving from remote places. Naturally, each Wave System (WS) has different characteristics, like their seasonal variability, typical wave height, but most importantly, the wave period and the spectral width are fundamental design parameters. As WECs must resonate on the exciting force to effectively convert energy, that resonance depends on the wave period. On the other hand, the spectral width indicates how disperse is energy in frequency and direction, the broader the spectrum (more entropy) the more difficult to tap its energy. Therefore, a smart WEC’s design cannot aim to the full spectrum, but to the particular WS with the more favorable characteristics (high energy, narrow spectral band, low frequency). For the present application we focus on a site in the Galapagos Islands. Apart from the aforementioned spectral conditions, this tropical site offers a couple of additional advantages, namely a small seasonal variability, and the absence of high extremes (to be withstood by the device even if idle), with still an interesting average resource (~20 kW/m). At this site we find three main WSs (see Fig. 1, a and b). WS1 belongs to the southerly swells, from the Antarctic extra-tropical storms. WS2 corresponds to swells from the northern hemisphere. WS3 is due to the southern trade-winds, active locally in the area (wind-sea). Clearly, the target for energy conversion is WS1, but for a non-directional device (e.g., point absorber), WS2 is also interesting due to the similar peak frequency. In addition, WS1 and WS2 are seasonally complementary, as they are mainly active in the austral and boreal winters respectively. The identification and separation of these different WSs allows us to determine their characteristics and to obtain specific design parameters. The modulation strategy for the WEC design is the subject of a parallel paper.
 
 Fig. 1. a) (left) Spectral wave conditions in the Galapagos Islands. WS1: Antarctic swells, WS2: northern swells, WS3: southern trade-winds, WS4: Central America wind jets. The colorbar indicates number of occurrences within 1979-2015. b) (right) Average one dimensional spectra for the WSs in panel a. Data obtained from GLOSWAC: https://modemat.epn.edu.ec/nereo/.

TUMBLING EXPERIMENT FOR THE ESTIMATION OF ABRASION AND MASS LOSS OF COASTAL SEDIMENTS FROM AN ARTIFICIAL COARSE-CLASTIC BEACH

In order to assess the accretive or erosive pattern of a stretch of coast, it is essential to estimate its sediment budget, i.e. the quantification of all sources and sinks of sediments. The sediment budget is the basis of a reliable coastal management plan (Ruol et al., 2018). In fact, coastal erosion is usually the result of a negative balance of factors, both natural and anthropogenic, that operate on different scales, none of which may be considered the single cause. Recently, a massive abrasion rate of coarse-clastic sediments was documented in artificial nourished beaches. The mechanism is associated with both mild wave conditions and extreme stormy events, which could also induce chippings. This phenomenon could decrease the durability of nourishments (Bertoni et al., 2012 and 2016) and is usually not considered in the sediment balance. The mass loss due to abrasion can lead to errors in the analysis of erosive and accretive patterns after the nourishment and consequently to erroneous coastal management strategies. Moreover, the sediment grain size in a given beach (naturally present or selected for nourishments) is strictly related to the typical wave energy. The abrasion mechanism and the possible pebble chipping change the sediment grain size, which could become unstable and not adequate for the local wave climate. Based on the large cost of nourishments, which also require strong monitoring in the subsequent years, it is crucial to understand the abrasion and mass loss rates of the filling sediments to extend the life of artificial beaches as long as possible.

Wave pattern effect on the lifting of near-ground dust driven by shock waves after tunnel blasting

The key mechanical problem of dust lifting due to tunnel blasting is the interaction between shock waves and particle phases. Based on compressible flow numerical simulations, a gas–solid two-phase flow model was established to simulate the dust lifting characteristics under two typical wave patterns. The results show that both wave patterns undergo “rolling” + “lifting” during the dust lifting process. The difference is that the dust layer is first pressed and then lifted in the case of spherical waves, while the dust is immediately lifted diagonally upward in the case of plane waves. In the latter case, the dust lifting height and speed are higher. In this paper, theoretical guidance for ventilation and dust removal designs was provided based on the study of dust lifting by shock waves and wave pattern effect under a series of dust physical property parameters and shock wave pressure parameters.

Numerical Simulation of Acoustic Wave Generated by DC Corona Discharge Based on the Shock Wave Theory

The audible noise generated by corona discharge has the N-type characteristic at the initial generation stage, and it is a typical shock wave. This shock wave usually only exists around the corona source with a tiny range, making it difficult to obtain its characteristics through experimental measurements. An electrosound-combined simulation of the corona discharge based on the shock wave theory was conducted, and the development process involving the corona discharge, shock wave, and sound wave was simulated. First, the corona was numerically simulated based on the 2D pin–plate axisymmetric hydrodynamic model. It was found that the plasma was mainly distributed near the axis of the corona field where the electric field changed violently, and the maximum value of the electric field appeared at the head of the discharge channel. Then, the plasma energy was equivalent to the explosive energy, and a plasma explosion shock model was established. It was found that the shock wave pressure had obvious positive and negative pressure zones, and the propagation velocity decays to the sound velocity gradually. Finally, the shock wave pressure derived by the explosion model was used as the acoustic source, and the acoustic wave propagation process was simulated. The simulated sound pressure waveform had the same characteristics as the relevant experimental measurement results, proving that the developed method possessed strong applicability and gave rise to a new angle for the simulation of corona-generated audible noise.

Nonlinear coherent structures of nucleus-acoustic wave excitations in multi-nuclei quantum plasmas with ultra-relativistically degenerate electrons and positrons

The propagation dynamics of the nucleus-acoustic waves (NAW) in a quantum plasma composed of nondegenerate inertial light nuclei, stationary heavy nuclei, and ultra-relativistically degenerate electrons and positrons has been theoretically investigated within the framework of the Boussinesq equation, which is valid for a bi-directional propagation of a small but finite amplitude limit. The N-soliton solution of the Boussinesq equation is derived using Hirota's method. It is found that positive potential structures exist in the sonic and supersonic regimes, whereas negative potential structures are found to be present in the subsonic regime. Pertinent plasma properties are analyzed for one-, two-, and three-soliton solutions in terms of different parameters. In addition to the typical solitary wave solutions, our findings indicate that the nonlinear NAW has breather structures. The three- and four-soliton solutions are used to construct the elastic interaction solutions of the breather–soliton and breather–breather, respectively. The findings are discussed in the context of ultra-relativistic astrophysical plasmas.

Breaking wave field statistics with a multi-layer model

The statistics of breaking wave fields are characterised within a novel multi-layer framework, which generalises the single-layer Saint-Venant system into a multi-layer and non-hydrostatic formulation of the Navier–Stokes equations. We simulate an ensemble of phase-resolved surface wave fields in physical space, where strong nonlinearities, including directional wave breaking and the subsequent highly rotational flow motion, are modelled, without surface overturning. We extract the kinematics of wave breaking by identifying breaking fronts and their speed, for freely evolving wave fields initialised with typical wind wave spectra. The$\varLambda (c)$distribution, defined as the length of breaking fronts (per unit area) moving with speed$c$to$c+{\rm d}c$following Phillips (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 156, 1985, pp. 505–531), is reported for a broad range of conditions. We recover the$\varLambda (c) \propto c^{-6}$scaling without wind forcing for sufficiently steep wave fields. A scaling of$\varLambda (c)$based solely on the root-mean-square slope and peak wave phase speed is shown to describe the modelled breaking distributions well. The modelled breaking distributions are in good agreement with field measurements and the proposed scaling can be applied successfully to the observational data sets. The present work paves the way for simulations of the turbulent upper ocean directly coupled to a realistic breaking wave dynamics, including Langmuir turbulence, and other sub-mesoscale processes.

Dual-network ionogel with pyramidal array microarchitecture as a flexible device for body movement sensing and subtle activity monitoring

Flexible piezoresistive devices with high sensitivity serve as important candidates for wearable sensors in common movements and subtle physiological motions. In this work, a soft material based on ionogel was fabricated into a sheet with pyramidal array architecture on one side (PDNIG), which worked as a pressure sensor in a pair combo state with the pyramidal side contacted each other (di-PDNIG). It demonstrates high sensitivity (10.98 kPa−1) and strong durability, which can work well in monitoring primary limb movements and the subtle physiological signals, including radial artery pulsation and heartbeat, associated with cardiovascular function. The tested radial artery pulse through the sensor presents typical artery wave characteristics. Moreover, the artery pulse rate of the subjects is 72 ∼ 90 beats/min, whilst the heartbeat rate is ∼ 80 beats/min. This di-PDNIG suggests a potential material as soft sensor facing toward wellness status monitoring and artificial intelligence system components.

BTCRSleep: a boundary temporal context refinement-based fully convolutional network for sleep staging with single-channel EEG

Objective. Sleep staging studies on single-channel EEG mainly exploit deep learning methods that combine convolutional neural networks (CNNs) and recurrent neural networks. However, when typical brain waves (such as K-complexes or sleep spindles) that identify sleep stages span two epochs, the abstract process of a CNN extracting features from each sleep stage may cause the loss of boundary context information. This study attempts to capture the boundary context, which contains the characteristics of brain waves during sleep stage transition, to improve the performance of sleep staging. Approach. In this paper we propose a fully convolutional network with boundary temporal context refinement, called BTCRSleep (Boundary Temporal Context Refinement Sleep). The boundary temporal context refinement module refines the boundary information on sleep stages on the basis of extracting multi-scale temporal dependences between epochs and enhances the abstract capability of the boundary temporal context. In addition, we design a class-aware data augmentation method to effectively learn the boundary temporal context between the minority class and other sleep stages. Main results. We evaluate the performance of our proposed network using four public datasets: the 2013 version of Sleep-EDF Expanded (SEDF), the 2018 version of Sleep-EDF Expanded (SEDFX), the Sleep Heart Health Study (SHHS) and CAP Sleep Database (CAP). The evaluation results on the four datasets showed that our model obtains the best total accuracy and kappa score compared with state-of-the-art methods. On average, accuracies of 84.9% in SEDF, 82.9% in SEDFX, 85.2% in SHHS and 76.9% in CAP are obtained under subject-independent cross-validation. We demonstrate that the boundary temporal context contributes to the improvement in capturing the temporal dependences across different epochs.

A high-resolution wave energy assessment of south-east Australia based on a 40-year hindcast

In this study, a third-generation ocean wave model (WAVEWATCH III; WW3) implemented on a high-resolution unstructured grid was developed to investigate wave energy in the south-east of Australia over the 40-year period from 1981 to 2020. The simulated wave power shows good agreement with values estimated from multiplatform satellite data. Thus, the modeled data were used to study statistics (mean conditions, seasonality, extremes, and long-term trends) of wave power in the domain, which show impacts of Southern Ocean swell and protection provided by the land mass of Tasmania. The results indicate increasing wave power trends, with the largest values in the southeastern part of the domain over the 40-year period. These positive trends are mainly a result of an increase in significant wave height rather than peak wave period. By utilizing the simulated wave properties, we estimated regional annual electric power at 14 coastal locations using 9 typical wave energy converters (WECs). To do so, we conducted a comprehensive analysis (seasonal variations, wave power roses, probability distributions, and bivariate probability distributions) at these locations. The results demonstrate that the western and southwestern coasts of the domain are promising generation sites but with large seasonal variability. The central and eastern coasts are protected by Tasmania, and exhibit more stable conditions but are far less energetic for electricity production. This study has critical implications for the region, which provides a benchmark for coastal WEC deployment.

#4524 TRIBOELECTRIC EVALUATION OF ARTERIOVENOUS FISTULA FOR HAEMODIALYSIS: A PILOT STUDY

Abstract Background and Aims Determination of stenosis in an arteriovenous fistula (AVF) for hemodialysis is an essential step in the management of patients with end-stage kidney disease. Stenosis, or narrowing of the blood vessels, can significantly reduce blood flow and ultimately lead to thrombosis and dysfunction of the AVF. Therefore, accurate and frequent surveillance is crucial for detection of stenosis and for the proper management of AVF. Surveillance of AVF is based on direct methods including ultrasound imaging and magnetic resonance angiography both dependent from examiner availability and not ever regularly repeatable. The triboelectric effect refers to the phenomenon where certain materials become charged after coming into contact with another material. In blood vessels the rubbing of erythrocytes against each other and arterial and vein wall generates a negative triboelectric charge and an electric potential range directly related to flow rate. The aim of our study was firstly to investigate the potential reliability of a wearable device able (Figure 1A) to record this constant potential and consequently evaluating the aptitude of waveforms generated to detect AVF stenosis in comparison to standard doppler evaluation. Method Between September 2022 and January 2023, we screened forty-eight patients from two hemodialysis centers in Catanzaro (Italy) Patients were divided in two groups basing on the assessment from two blinded experienced examiners for recognized criteria for stenosis: 2 major criteria (reduction of vessel size greater than 50% and a ratio between systolic peak velocity (SPV) in the stenotic region and SPV in pre-stenotic region major of 2 (>2)) and a supplementary finding like drop of the access flow [QA] below 500ml/min or drop of QA>25% as compared to the previous measurements in FAV with QA<1000ml/min or residual diameter <2mm). Patients were then evaluated using the PVDF/Kapton triboelectric sensor placed in contact with the skin on the lower surface, and with the thumb in contact with the upper surface to close the circuit and graphically recording typical pattern waveform generated. AVFs were analyzed considering the following acquisition sites: the chamber which corresponds to the site where surgery anastomosis was performed, a site located 5 cm from the chamber, and finally at the level of the humeral artery. Results There was an almost perfect (R = 0.97) correlation between the blood flow measured at the humeral artery level and the maximum-time derivative equation computed for each patient (Figure 1B). Based on doppler evaluation, 14/48 patients (29%) were classified as stenotic. Of these, 13 patients (93%) presented a typical wave pattern (B-point) with a ‘Notch’ shape (Figure 1D) which, conversely, was found in only 1 patient out of 34 without evidence of stenosis. The presence of Notch reflected the presence of stenosis with a Sensitivity of 92,8% (95%CI 66,1 to 99,8%), a specificity of 97% (95%CI 84,7 to 99,9%), holding an overall accuracy of 95,8% (95%CI 85,7% to 99,5%). Patients without stenosis assumed a different waveform (Figure 1C). Conclusions In chronic hemodialysis patients, the evaluation of AVF by a biosensor based on triboelectric potential measurement might represent an accurate and easy-to-perform surrogate of standard eco-doppler method for a quick and reliable evaluation of AVF functioning and, particularly, for a rapid risk stratification of patients with high suspect of AVF stenosis.

Numerical Investigation of the Oblique Detonation Waves and Stability in a Super-Detonative Ram Accelerator

This study numerically investigates the effects of diluent gas proportion, the overdrive factor, and throat width on the wave structure and thrust performance of a ram accelerator operating in super-detonative mode. For premixed gas of a high energy density, a typical unstart oblique detonation wave system is observed due to the ignition on the front wedge of the projectile, and the detonation waves move downstream to the shoulder as the energy density decreases. In the start range of the overdrive factor, the wave position also shows a tendency to move downstream as the projectile velocity increases, accompanied by oscillations of the wave surface and thrust. As the throat width increases, the wave standing position changes non-monotonously, with an interval of upstream movement and Mach reflection. The typical wave structure of a ram accelerator in super-detonative mode is identified, as well as the unstart stable wave features and the unstable process for choking, which can provide theoretical guidance for avoiding unstart issues in ram accelerators and optimizing their performance.

Designing Topological Acoustic Lattices via Electroacoustic Analogies

Abstract Topological acoustics has recently witnessed a spurt in research activity, owing to their unprecedented properties transcending typical wave phenomena. In recent years, the use of coupled arrays of acoustic chambers has gained popularity in designing topological acoustic systems. In their common form, an array of acoustic chambers with relatively large volume is coupled via narrow channels. Such configuration is generally modeled as a full three-dimensional system, requiring extended computational time for simulating its harmonic response. To this end, this article establishes a comprehensive mathematical treatment of the use of electroacoustic analogies for designing topological acoustic lattices. The potential of such analytical approach is demonstrated via two types of topological systems: (i) edge states with quantized winding numbers in an acoustic diatomic lattice and (ii) valley Hall transition in an acoustic honeycomb lattice that leads to robust waveguiding. In both cases, the established analytical approach exhibits an excellent agreement with the full three-dimensional model, whether in dispersion analyses or the response of an acoustic system with a finite number of cells. The established analytical framework is invaluable for designing a variety of acoustic topological insulators with minimal computational cost.

First passage times for nonlinear ship dynamics using Gaussian random fields and effective waves

It is important to know the mean time until critical roll motion occurs in various operating and sea conditions, in order to determine and ensure the safety of ship designs and operating ships. Since typical ocean waves are irregular, the forcing and roll response of the ship is considered to be a stochastic process of colored noise type. However, the simulation of the corresponding first passage times is very time consuming. Therefore, an approach for the determination of mean first passage times of critical roll motion of ships is proposed in this paper which needs much less computation time. This approach is based on explicit formulas for the roll energy of the ship. These formulas are used to determine the mean first passage times based on integral expressions, which were previously obtained. The resulting integral expressions can be computed very fast using standard quadrature formulas. Moreover, the underlying model for ship dynamics is extended by introducing a new effective wave for short-crested sea states. This is an extension to the improved Grim’s effective wave concept.

A high-efficiency C-band coaxial transit time oscillator with a dual-cavity extractor under low-magnetic fields

A high-efficiency C-band coaxial transit time oscillator with a dual-cavity extractor under low-magnetic fields is designed and studied through small-signal theory and particle-in-cell simulation. Small-signal theory analysis indicates that a dual-cavity extractor is superior to a single-cavity extractor in terms of the beam-coupling coefficient, the resonant frequency, and the external quality factor, which are good for high efficiency. Typical simulation results of the proposed device show that an output power of 1.73 GW and a frequency of 6.37 GHz can be obtained with a diode voltage of 455 kV and current of 9.75 kA. The corresponding power efficiency reaches 39%, and the guiding magnetic field is 0.8 T. Further simulation demonstrates that the power efficiency exceeds 34% in a rather large range of diode voltage from 385 kV to 470 kV and can reach higher than 35% with a low guiding magnetic field of 0.4 T. Then this coaxial transit time oscillator is compared with the typical relativistic backward wave oscillators from the magnetic field, efficiency and power saturation time.

Neutral Magic‐Angle Bilayer Graphene: Condon Instability and Chiral Resonances

The full optical response of twisted bilayer graphene at the neutrality point close to the magic angle within the continuum model (CM) is discussed. First, three different channels consistent with the underlying symmetry are identified, yielding the total, magnetic, and chiral response. Second, the full optical response in the immediate vicinity of the magic angle is numerically calculated, which provides a direct mapping of the CM onto an effective two‐band model. It is, further, shown that the ground state of the CM in the immediate vicinity of is unstable toward transverse current fluctuations, a so‐called Condon instability. Third, due to the large counterflow, the acoustic plasmonic excitations with typical wave numbers have larger energies than the optical ones and their energy density may be largely enhanced at certain frequencies which are denominated as chiral resonances. Finally, symmetry relations for the optical response and their consequences for the chiral response are discussed.

Characterization and modelling of water mixing energies and particle behavior during wave generation in CanmetENERGY Devon spill test tank

A mesoscale oil spill test tank located in Natural Resources Canada research facility at CanmetENERGY Devon (AB, Canada) was used to study the mixing energy and particle behavior near the shorelines. Four types of waves have been generated in the tank where the instantaneous velocities were measured using an acoustic doppler velocimeter (ADV), and the energy dissipation rate was obtained. Below the water surface of 0.2 m, the energy dissipation rate reached the magnitude of 10−4 W/kg slightly away from the tank beach and increased to 10−3 W/kg in the beach region. For the most typical wave conditions, Large-Eddy Simulation (LES) were conducted and the result was consistent with experimental observation. The simulation further revealed that the energy dissipation rate reached 1.0 W/kg at the water surface near the beach region. The velocities and sub-grid diffusion from LES were used to track the movement of fictitious neutrally buoyant, buoyant, and heavy particles by a Lagrangian particle-tracking model. It was found that the droplet inertia has significant impact for 500 μm particles. Under the specific gravity of 0.88, the particles accumulated close to the beach, while the particles with specific gravity of 1.20 settled to the bottom wall regardless of the existence of waves.